on the halide bandwagon...!

[becon776]

yes!! I am now on the metal halide bandwagon.... (thanks to mirski). Now I need to get an icecap 660 and get rid of these pc's. Not that I didn't like them but like the thought of replacing 2 6' bulbs instead of 4 3' bulbs for actinics.

One thing how the hell do these suckers turn on? man It feels like they take a year and a half.

Do the bulbs take longer to fire as the bulbs age or as the ballast ages or both? I don't really know how old the ballast is but I know that it is a coralife. 3x175 watt.

what bulbs would you guys recommend I like a crisp white. The super bright look. Don't want to go too blue. but DEFINATELY don 't want to go yellow at all.

Ben

p.s. I have a 125 gallon, are there any corals that I will not be able to grow under this setup.... maxima clams?

thanks
Ben

[Kent E]

congrats! It was my favorite upgrade.

[Gary Majchrzak]

Congrats, Ben. The slow 'on' thing about halides is normal and one of the kewl things about them, IMO.
In 175w format, I would use Ushio 10kk's.
And go get some maximas!

[rwdandald]

Congrats! I really like the MH. I like the XM bulbs - they have a great PAR and are $10. - $30 cheaper than the AB or Ushio usually - can get them for $59./ bulb. I also can send you a link for a site order bulbs from that are good prices and great customer service including live online help most of the time.

[becon776]

thanks gary,
I have been so left out of the sps groupies. Now I am cool enough ;)

[Loudz34]

You can also use the workhorse ballasts for Vho's. a Wkh7 will fire up to 220watts~ or 2-48" vho's ( I believe they are 110w each) and the ballast is about 40.00 or so... As far as the Xm bulbs~ So far I am pleased with them... But then again I am running 400w bulbs.... So a big difference in intensity...

[MarksReef]

what bulbs would you guys recommend I like a crisp white. The super bright look. Don't want to go too blue.
10k Ushio's, NOT just because I have 2 F.S. BUT I do if you are interested. :D

[rwdandald]

Just a question for any perusing this thread - any hints for growing corraline under the MH? The only place coralline grow for me are under ledges and areas not directly under lights...

[ReeferMac]

Corraline does not like bright, strong lighting (well, most kinds). There are a few flavors that can do well in strong lighting, mostly greenish colored varieties. There are a couple pinks I've seen, as well as some reds (very rare).

- Mac

[Defcon]

I have 10K ushio HQI bulbs and find them too yellow for me. Is it because they are HQI? The color of light looks much different then the 10K mogul bulbs I have seen. Thats why I am going to go with the new Hamilton 14K's.

[becon776]

my ballast's are a few years old... and it's a coralife 3x175 watt in one enclosure. So it's the old tar and coil type of ballast. right now all I have are three 10k hamilton. I do like the color of these bulbs... very white (again don't like to go too blue) my dad has 20k bulbs and I think they are way too blue for MY tastes. He likes them though.

How long do the ballasts last? what about bulb life?

OH, yeah i noticed that my dad's tank has like no coraline growth... I have a ton of blue and purple from the pc's, will that die off?

Also, exactly what is the diference between 100 watts of MH versus 100 watts of PC pertaining to corals (besides the shimmer) ? why is it better. Why could I not grow any sps under the pc's and now (as for what everyone has shown or told me) I can keep sps and clams under the MH.
enlighten me ;)
Ben

[becon776]

oops, won't let me delete?!

[becon776]

bump

[rwdandald]

Also, exactly what is the diference between 100 watts of MH versus 100 watts of PC pertaining to corals (besides the shimmer) ? why is it better

a "watt" is a measurement of energy consumed rather than of light given out. While light given out is in general increased by the amount of watts the two are not directly related. As an example - old bulbs still consume the same amount of energy (watts) but they have lost some of their efficiency (light output).

A metal halide produces substantially more light output (about 2x) per watt than a VHO or PC. The intensity of the light is measured by a unit called an Einstien or micro-Einstein and related as PAR, Photosynthetic Active Radiation (the light in the spectrum used by plants (400-700nm)). 400 watts of typical PC or VHO lighting has a PAR value of aprox. 1100 while 400 watts of MH has a PAR value of aprox 2100 at the water surface. As a comparison in intensity - Noontime sun has a value of aprox 2000.

All the different bulbs have different PAR values as well - some substantially different - even in the same wattage - which is why some bulbs simply seem to perform better. The color of the bulb (Kelvin rating (6500K, 10,000K, 20,000 K ) has two effects - it gives the visible color (blue, white, yellow, etc) and also provides wavelengths of light in different areas some of which have been proven to have a direct effect on desired growth traits in corals.
Let me no if you want some info that as well....

[becon776]

thanks for the info.... that leads me to ask.
You gave a comparison of pc and MH at the water surface. Now would that become even more exaggerated below the h2o sruface b/c mh is a point source of light? i.e. does it "cut through the h2o better"?

[rwdandald]

You gave a comparison of pc and MH at the water surface. Now would that become even more exaggerated below the h2o sruface b/c mh is a point source of light? i.e. does it "cut through the h2o better"?

Exactly - the deeper the water or the more suspended particles the greater the effect. It is the point source light that causes the ripple effect as well. The one drawback is the variance in light on MH system is greater than on VHO because it is a point source...there is a "hot spot" directly below each bulb.

[rwdandald]

And a little about the individual lamps - http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/feb2004/feature2.htm