Electronic Water Testing?

[FastUno]

Does anyone use any electronic water testing solutions? If so , which kind?

Does anyone use this Electronic Pen PH tester (http://www.thatpetplace.com/Products/KW/F73%2cMAN0047/Class/Fish+Supplies+Coralife+Test+Kits/T1/F73+0047+0523/Itemdy00.aspx), how does it work. What does the calibration solution have to do with the whole process? Is it a matter of just dipping the pen in the solution, does the solution last you a long time?


Is there an all in one unit, such as this German one I came across http://www.aquapro2000.de/Indexm.htm ? Anything good & worthwhile getting?

[MalHavoc]

I have that exact pen pH tester (it's a Checker, by Hannah), and it works reasonably well. You need to calibrate with a pH 7 and a pH 10 solution every once in a while to make sure it's correctly reading your tank's pH. There are two adjustment screws on the top of the meter that you turn to get it to read the calibration fluid correctly.

The solution really needs to be made fresh every couple of weeks. It's a buffer, and if your calibration solutions go bad, there's no way to know if your meter is reading correctly.

Neptune Systems makes an all-in-one unit called the Aqua Controller, which is fairly popular with aquarists who have money.

http://www.neptunesys.com/aquaController2.htm

[Sloth]

I have that exact Hannah pH meter too, and I got it for 1/2 that price at Grainger.

You need to read the instructions that come with it, but basically, don't let the probe dry out, keep it calibrated, and just dip it and read it.

I don't really see the all-in-one unit you're referring to on that link, but I'll tell you that parameters you can measure with a meter include ORP, pH, dissolved oxygen, conductivity, turbidity, chlorophil (spelling?) concentration... I don't know what else.

You'll still need test kits for calcium and alkalinity.

[Yose]

That Fish Place has the Milwaukee SM101 pH meter on sale right now and I like mine a lot. I've talked to keepers as well as people at that fish place and they all say to not bother with the 10 pH calibration because 10 has a short shelf life and it becomes unstable which will throw your calibration off. I calibrate my meter with 4 and 7 only. I often check it against a liquid pH test kit and it stays accurate for me.

Also, I believe you should have a constant in-tank probe so it is always in contact with your water. The pen types can vary more easily because they are stored out of the water.

WOW, that AquaController is really nice!

[FastUno]

I thought the PH4 calibration was for freshwater. Do you have to use 2 different PH calibration solutions, can you just get away with PH7 Cal?

[Yose]

I generally use both 4 and 7 so I at least have a low and high range baseline

[cichlidiots]

Your reading will be more accurate if you do a two-point calibration in the range you are interested. For a marine tank with pH 8.3 you would want to calibrate at pH7 and pH10. You could calibrate 7 only or 4 and 7, but the farther you go from that range, the less accurate your reading will be. If you don't want an exact measure then it probably doesn't matter.

The calibration on an in-tank probe will also drift, and leaving it in the tank means it will foul and may need replacement earlier. We have the handheld Hanna phep5 (and also a Milwuakee TDS meter). The Hanna has 0.01 accuracy, and calibrating is automatic--no screws to turn. You just dip it in the solutions and press a button. So it's a breeze to calibrate and we dont' mind doing it more often. Its also waterproof.

[aquaman67]

cichlidiots

[welcome]

As for pH pens, check the accuracy. Some are only accurate to .2

Which means water actually at 8.3 could read anywhere from 8.1 to 8.5

And a two point calibration is always better than a single point. You should use 7 and 10 to measure bases, like saltwater at 8.3

Using 4 and 7 buffer is used if you are measuring acids with a low pH.

[FastUno]

Here is an off shot of the original question. If the PH is too high then you add "blank" & if your PH is too low then you add "blank". Fill in the blanks with off-the-shelf products, something like pickling lime. Also, how do you know how much to put in. The buffering agents (I think) bring it down/up to a certain level & doesn't let it go below/above that level (8.3...etc). But when you add substitute products, how do you know how much to add?

[Sloth]

Search through the Advanced Aquarist articles...

And look at Randy's two part calcium/alk additive recipe. There are some answers in there. Too much for me to write out - besides I'd be plagerizing. ;)

[aquaman67]

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2002/chem.htm

[FastUno]

Is there a PH meter that does not require calibration?

[aquaman67]

No.

[FastUno]

Here is a link to a bunch of PH testers. some have manual calibration. Manual as opposed to chemical buffer cal.

http://www.aquaticreefsystems.com/new_aquarium_meters.htm


How does the manual work? Which is better?

[Petro]

No one answered the last post and I was wondering if anyone had any new insight to add to this topic.

My dad insists there must be a better way to test pH then with my Fastest...and is offering to foot the bill of an electronic meter for the sake of my fish.

So any new info would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

[Petro]

One bump, thats it, just hoping someone with some insight might be on tonight...

[bertoni]

I use an Oakton pHTestr3+ from www.labsafety.com. It does require calibration, but it's more accurate than the FasTest kits, IMO.