LR curing

[masterswimmer]

Things seem to be happening (albeit slowly):

75 gal. display
15 gal. fuge
120 lbs LR
running actinics only for ~4hrs/day (about 20" above the tank)
Oceanic salt

ammonia = 8+ (off the chart) since Thurs nite 3/18
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 0
PH = 7.9
Temp = 81
salinity = 1.0235 (planning to increase it to 1.0255 by cycle's end)

At what point in time should I expect to see my nitrites spike? How long does it normally take? PH is low due to die off on LR I believe. Haven't tested for Alk/dKh, calcium, phos. yet. Figure I need to get through the cycle first.

Are these readings looking in the normal range (at this point in the cycle)?

Thank you my resident guru's,
Russ

[ADS]

I don't think the lights are necessary this early. Use a skimmer and flow.
I would consider a water change after 3 days.
You should see nitrite rise and ammonia decrease at about 10-14 days. Nitrate will rise once ammonia gone. You'll see brown algae on glass first.
Adam

[masterswimmer]

Thanx Adam. Was kinda hoping the actinics for a few hours might help whatever coraline and minute coral life there is to survive. Skimmer is pulling lots of gunk.

I already missed the three day mark for water change. How much of a change should I do? And, is it really necessary? Since it is only LR and no fish, inverts or corals, wouldn't the higher ammonia help for the tank to cycle faster? ie: more good bacteria? Doing a water change will benefit how?

Thanx for the input,
Russ

[Tomzpc]

Originally posted by masterswimmer

ammonia = 8+ (off the chart) since Thurs nite 3/18
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 0
PH = 7.9
Temp = 81
salinity = 1.0235 (planning to increase it to 1.0255 by cycle's end)


Russ,

What kit are you using for PH? Salifert's PH test kit is the only one of theirs that I don't like. Mine would always look closer to 7.9 against other kits which would show between 8.1 and 8.5, depending on time of day tested. My PH monitor confirmed the higher readings.

[ADS]

Water changes will prevent killing off the rock entirely. You're curing rock and cycling the tank together. This is one reason I like to use vats. There will be initial die off on the rock which will stabilize if given the correct environment(pH low ammonia/nitrite temp flow). If you leave the rock in that environment(high ammonia/nitrite low pH) most of the coral and plant will die off.
With uncured/precured you're trying to preserve the life on the rock.
Light can be added at 10-14d when your ammonia is gone and you start getting nitrates. Earlier photosynthesis may just lead to increasing the DOC in the water.
Adam

[masterswimmer]

Adam, thnx very informative. Even an hour a day for lights? Just so I can peek in there and enjoy. Is that wrong too?

Tom, I'm just using a cheap Aquarium Pharmaceuticals PH test kit. I will eventually be buying a PH monitor, but until then I didn't want to shell out another $15 for something I've already got (albeit not the best one out there, but probably close enough during the cycle process).

Russ

[nine9d]

edit*

[nine9d]

Russ what have you been doing with the lights?

[masterswimmer]

Ross,
Been keeping the lights off primarily. Only keep them on for about one hour a day. I have a sickness, I have to look at my rock a little bit every day. But my sickness is being helped by the 12 step program and the first step is the realization that I do have a problem.

Oh by the way my ammonia is at ZERO baby, ZERO woooohooooo!!!

Russ