Is this a result of new lighting?

[guytano]

Ok, I know the answer to my question..it is yes.....I recently upgraded from 2 40 watt NO, to a 110 PC and have an Actinic 40 watt going also.
I have a 90 gallon.
My question is, since I have gotten the new lighting there is red stuff growing on the glass and on the rocks near one of the powerheads. In a addition to this, there are air bubbles (or I assume they are airbubbles) all over some of the rocks. The seem to be trapped, stuck against the rock by this red stuff.
Any pointers on how to get rid of this stuff...more importantly, how to keep it from growing in the first place.

[mandktod]

Nutrient export!!!! You will have a lot of work ahead of you because the red stuff (most likely cyano) is just the beginning next will be hair algae and then if yours is like mine several other varieties will come along to join the party.

First test your phosphates and nitrates they most likely are high which is fueling the growth, if you don't have a refugium check into one I got a HOB Aquafuge (CPR) and some macro algae growing in it to help get rid of excess nutrients, as well as I got some phosban and ran it in my Magnum canister which helped get rid of the phosphates. Do weekly 10% water changes with RO water and syphon out as much of the crap as you can, if you have a DSB don't stir it because that just causes it to grow more, just suck it off without disturbing the DSB as much as possible. Increase flow if you can, the recommendation is at least 10X your tank size per hour I am now up to about 1500 GPH for my 55, I have blown the hair right off my fish. LOL

I worked and worked for about 2 months to get rid of the cyano and finally caved in and got some Red Slime Remover, many will say (and they are right) you need to treat the source but I was treating the source and it wasn't happening so I added one dose of the RSR and in 2 days no sign of it anywhere now I have the hair left and that is what I am going after now and it sound crazy but I am really happy to be just fighting one type at this point, I was fighting about 3 or 4 types at one time and it was a bit over whelming, but I am down to one type now and it is still winning the battle but my fuge is only 2 weeks old so it is not old enough to really make a huge dent in the nutrients yet but the fight is on.

It is a tough battle and requires a lot of work so roll up your sleeves and get in there!!!! Good Luck, Mark

[Cape Cod]

think Ill just tag along I have the exact same problems associated with new lighting . I do have a fuge also and the macro is growing great ??

[ReefSalt]

If it is Cyano siphon out as much as you can,often it will hopefully loose the battle,make sure you never stir up the cyano just siphon it,cause when you stir it spreads so fast all over.

[elwaine]

What is the water temperature in you tank? I think a lot of folks keep their temp between 78 and 80 Degrees F.

If your tank temp is in the above range, you might try lowering the temp to 75 degrees F (but do so slowly). That will be quite safe for all desireable life in the tank but will retard the rate of growth of the algae. (It will also slow down the rate pf growth of corals, fish, etc., but will be quite safe... and you can raise the temp a little after the algae blooms are gone.)

[mandktod]

I have never heard of that one (lowering the temp) that is one I have not tried before, have you done it without having any problems? I thought lowering the temp would fuel ick? I would rather fight alage than ick if that is the case. Did you find out about the temp thing on here? I will have to search on that one because if it works I will gladly give that a try.

[elwaine]

First, I have not tried it myself. But I do know from experience that adverse, excess nutrients will build up faster at warmer water temps and that algae will grow faster in warmer water, all other things being equal.

The following is a quote from "Natural Reef Aquariums," by John H. Tullock, T.F.H. Pub., Jan., 2001, p. 52 (and while Tullock does not specifically say that lowering the temp will help reduce algae, he does say):

"Tropical marine organisms do best at temperatures within the range of about 70 to 80 degrees F, with the optimum being 75 degrees. The role of temperture in maintenance of aquatic organisms is significant. The metabolic rate (the way in which the body obtains energy from foods) in fishes is highly dependent on temperature. Keeping coral reef fishes at the optimum temperature of 75 degrees results in better health, fewer disease problems, and longer life spans than if they are kept at higher temperatures."

His specific recommendations (but he already assumes that the water temp is ideal, i.e., 75 degrees F) are:
1. reduce phosphates
2. use a protein skimmer
3. reduce nitrate
4. limit silicate
5. experiment with lighting
6. check C02
7. clean the filter system
7. add herbivores

Hope this helps!

[kevin2000]

Cyano bacteria results from water quality problems. Two most common cures are water changes and increased water flow. If things get out of control then you can use erythromycin (myacin) .

If you resort to ethromycin the following instructions will help (copied from web site of my LFS)

"This is a very strong antibiotic and must be used sparingly. One capsule or pill (200 mg) is enough to clear up a 55 gallon with a small outbreak. A 100 gallon tank with a very heavy amount of slime algae may need 4 capsules. Use your judgment. Open capsules and mix with saltwater because the capsule itself will not dissolve. Crush pills and mix with saltwater. (Do not add the recommended amount as per package instructions; it will kill all the good bacteria in your tank too.) Turn off ozone, protein skimmer air, and remove carbon and other absorbents, etc. Add erythromycin after the lights are off (or just turn them off). All of the algae (bacteria) should be dead by morning. If not, repeat the next night - again leave the lights off for the entire day. When it is gone, turn on the skimmer, do a 33-50% water change then add an alkalinity booster. Fresh carbon can be used for 3 days if you don't have a skimmer. Keep your particle filter clean - everyday or 2."

Hope this helps.

[Cape Cod]

Im lowering the temp mainly because Ive recently seen the most spectacular coral reef system. It has been set up for 7 years (180) gallon and he keeps it at 74 degrees.
Ive also heard that higher temps can contribute to algae growth as well a too high salinity.

[adiver]

guytano,

Stop give us all your current paramiter of you tank
Temp
PH
NO2,NO3,PO4,
What are you keeping in it
Filters
Carbon?
Water changes
food you put in there and amount per day

lowering you to to 74-75 is wrong.
Elwain list of The "7" are good all but the temp. Where do your aniamal live (what part of the ocean) not many of the corals or fish come from areas that are 75 deg

[elwaine]

adiver wrote:
__________________________________

lowering you to to 74-75 is wrong.
__________________________________

That is, I think, a controversial issue. I am not trying to be argumentative. I wish to learn just like the rest of us, and I have no written-in-stone opinion on this topic. But I have done an extensive web search and find that, like most issues in this hobby, a uniform consensus is difficult to find.

The majority of hobbyists seem to keep their coral reef tanks between 78 and 82 degrees F. Many of the experienced aquarists chose 78 F (GARF tanks, for example). But I have encountered several "research grade" [my opinion] papers that suggest cooler temps are better. E.g.:

"Temperature limits where corals are found. There are no reef building corals in water colder than 21 degrees C [69.8 F]. If the temperature rises above 30 degrees C [86 F], the zooxanthellae will die and the corals slowly die, too. This is being seen in the wild where the sea temperatures have risen. The corals appear white without their colourful symbionts. This condition has been referred to as coral bleaching. Ideally, the temperature should stay within the range of 23-24 degrees C. [73.4 ¡V 75.2 degrees F]."
See: http://www.seaza.org/Conference/7th_conference/scientific_papers/challenges_of_a_coral_reef_aquar.htm

I found other, similar reports... just do a web search using Ideal Water Temperature Corals as your key search terms (on the web - not in this forum). But if you have evidence that keeping the tank temp at 75 degrees F is harmful... or not beneficial... please share the data and/or references with us

[elwaine]

OOPS!

I wrote:

Ideally, the temperature should stay within the range of 23-24 degrees C. [73.4 ¡V 75.2 degrees F]." which, of course, should have read \:

Ideally, the temperature should stay within the range of 23-24 degrees C. [73.4 degrees - 75.2 degrees F]."

Sorry about that...