Cutting Acrylic Help Needed

[Ereefic]

Well, I'm trying to build a Kalk reactor (my first acrylic experience)and I was given a 6" Acrylic tube. The piece appears to have been cut with a bandsaw, maybe. It's kind of a rough cut but no burrs or anything. The only power tools at my disposal are a jig saw and a cordless drill. :)

What would be the best way, for me, to get that edge a little nicer for glueing? I have Weld-on #16.

Also, any recommendations for cutting acrylic sheet using a jig saw? I've cut some pieces using a metal blade but it melts back together and leaves a really nasty edge. Am I cutting to fast?

Any help would be appreciated for this 'handicapped acrylic worker wanna be' :)

[Ereefic]

Here's a pic of the cut edge, hopefully it's not the size of a postage stamp. :)

[Acrylics]

Originally posted by Ereefic
Well, I'm trying to build a Kalk reactor (my first acrylic experience)and I was given a 6" Acrylic tube. The piece appears to have been cut with a bandsaw, maybe. It's kind of a rough cut but no burrs or anything. is pretty rough though :)

What would be the best way, for me, to get that edge a little nicer for glueing? I have Weld-on #16. Tape a piece of sandpaper to a flat table. Slide the end ont he paper making sure you keep the tube end flat on the paper. Do not let it vibrate (you'll know it:)), this means it's slightly "rocking" and will not be flat.
Considering your starting point, prolly start with 80 or 100 grit until flat, then 180 or 220.

Also, any recommendations for cutting acrylic sheet using a jig saw? I've cut some pieces using a metal blade but it melts back together and leaves a really nasty edge. Am I cutting to fast? nope, not fast enough. It will leave a fairly nasty edge anyway though, relatively speaking. Clamp the piece down so it doesn't vibrate and have at it. If it does start vibrating, stop immediately, this can cause the piece to fly apart.
Try a medum to coarse blade and cut at high speed using a consistent feed rate, at least this works for me.
All in all though, I'd recommend not using a jig saw, but if nothing else is available - it is workable.

James

[Ereefic]

Excellent, thanks for the help.

Would a wood blade (less teeth) be better than a metal blade (more teeth)?

My jig saw has one speed only, lol. Have to make it work with that.

[Acrylics]

Depends on thickness of the acrylic. Thinner acrylic = fine blade, thicker acrylic = coarser blade
If you are having melting problems then either increase the feed rate or use a coarser blade, either of these should help reduce heat.
BTW, if you are using extruded acrylic (FF, MC, CP, & basically anything film masked), you will have more melting problems, so be aware of that.

Be Careful, wear your goggles :),
James

[Ereefic]

Thanks Acrylics. I cut my flanges out this morning with a coarser blade and it went pretty well. Not the perfect circle, but they don't need to be.

Off to get some sandpaper and additional parts. :)