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headshrink
01/31/2004, 07:59 PM
I am thinking about building a float-switch setup for top-off. I am basing my design on these....
http://www.autotopoff.com/faq.html
I am limited on tools.... but I do have a drill, dremel, and jigsaw.
What I am trying to figure out now is where to get the mounting plate. Does HD or Lowes carry plastic strips I could bend?

picocube
01/31/2004, 09:03 PM
here is mine
I dont have it mounted yet but I am working on it as we speak

picocube
01/31/2004, 09:06 PM
By the way
I had an extra piecs of acrylic in my way so I mad it out of that
I cut it with a bandsaw
Drilled it with a drill
And bent it with the help of a heat gun
I burnt my fingers about a dozen times and even superglued one finger to it
OH the joys
Hope this helps

headshrink
02/01/2004, 03:13 AM
Does HD, Lowes or Osh carry acrylic or some other plastic that will work?

Tropical-Paradise-Ed
02/01/2004, 03:30 AM
Make it out of PVC. If you have a horizontal mount switch then put an elbow at the end of the pipe. If its vertical, just cap it a hole for the float to mount into.

The pvc can be the conduit for your wiring.

To mount to the sump you can use different fittings or notch it to slip on a lip.

headshrink
02/01/2004, 06:37 PM
Tropical-Paradise-Ed: Would you happen to have a pic of what you mean? It sounds interesting but I can't really visualize it. A drawing would work too if that is all you have.
Thanks :)

headshrink
02/01/2004, 06:39 PM
BTW: I have been meaning to make the drive to check out your store. I hear from the MARS crowd that it is a good one.

TJG
02/02/2004, 03:17 AM
I got some scraps of arcylic that are about the right size that (hell if you buy me a beer I will make it for you)you are welcome to have just come pick them up I live in Fair Oaks (so not that far) just PM I will send you my phone # address

I also have 10 of these coming shortly


http://www.floatswitches.net/floatswitch.html

3 of them don't have homes yet I will sell you 1 for what it cost me 5.75

melev
02/02/2004, 03:21 AM
Be sure to mount this in your return area, Bob. It should be very easy to clip it to the side of your sump, but be sure it can not be moved at all, or you risk a flood. It must be securely mounted.

headshrink
02/02/2004, 01:24 PM
TJG: Thanks :) I found some acrylic at Osh yesterday and may be able to handle it.... but if I change my mind I will defiantly call you. Did we meet at Rich's on Sat?

melev
02/02/2004, 02:58 PM
All you need is a small piece of acrylic (1/8" will do) and a 1/2" hole drilled through it. I used Weld-On #4 for this, but #16 would work just as well.

http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/tank/sumps/sump_model_a_float.jpg

thereefgeek
02/03/2004, 10:59 AM
Bob, you should of checked out my top off on Saturday. It's lo-voltage, so no AC runs into the sump. In the near future the next DIY I do will be to make one. My gallery here has a pic if the controller and wiring schematic.

headshrink
02/03/2004, 08:51 PM
Rich: Sounds good. I did take a look to see how you deal with the siphon break.... but I don't think the question about voltage had entered my mind yet.... so I didn't notice.

Sloth
02/04/2004, 10:23 AM
I glued mine to a magnet algae scraper. That way I can move it around whenever I want.

capescuba
02/04/2004, 10:52 AM
Originally posted by Sloth
I glued mine to a magnet algae scraper. That way I can move it around whenever I want.

Thats a sweet idea! Copyrighted it? :smokin:

Sloth
02/04/2004, 11:19 AM
No I stole it. heh. :rollface:

capescuba
02/04/2004, 11:27 AM
Originally posted by Sloth
No I stole it. heh. :rollface:

Good - then I won't feel so bad stealing it again then!:bum:

sharkdude
02/04/2004, 06:09 PM
on the float switches, I assume to wire it to a power cord, you just break one wire on the power cord with the two leads from switch going one to each side? like a normal switch would be?

float all the way up is off, and down is off?

also, are you worried about the the two leads from the float switch not being water proof?

headshrink
02/05/2004, 01:45 AM
yes I am worried.
Also wondering about the vast differances between wire gauge between FS and power cord.

melev
02/05/2004, 01:50 AM
That is why people recommend using a relay from Radio Shack instead. It switches the current to 12v instead of 110v. Tyupically, it will cost about $20 to set one up, and it really isn't that difficult.

Of course, mine is using the 110v system.... :rolleyes:

headshrink
02/05/2004, 01:58 AM
I think that is what I will do.

headshrink
02/21/2004, 02:44 AM
Originally posted by melev
All you need is a small piece of acrylic (1/8" will do) and a 1/2" hole drilled through it. I used Weld-On #4 for this, but #16 would work just as well.

http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/tank/sumps/sump_model_a_float.jpg


Marc, I may just use your idea after-all so I don't have to worry about it getting bumped or the small space that it is in...
What is the difference between #4 and 16?
They didn't have weld-on at the store so I picked up Devcon Plastic Welder. Will this work? It says it bonds best to Hard Plastics, Metals, Concrete, Vinyl, PVC piping, Fiberglass.... but NOT to Polyethylene or Polypropylene...
Also, you know how tight it is in my cabinet and I don't want to drain it and pull it apart... so do you think I can reasonably stick it on while system is running? I would have to reach in.... don't have immediate access to the return section of the sump. I guess getting the exact hight may be tricky. What do you think?

melev
02/21/2004, 02:59 AM
First of all, it isn't a 1/2" hole.... turns out it is 7/16ths.

If you can clean the spot where you want to glue it really well, and make sure it is dry, all you have to do is put a dab of #16 on the piece and press it in place. Hold it steady for about 1 minute, then carefully remove your hand. You may attach a piece of masking tape to support it for a few hours, because gravity will tug on it and it'll lean or even fall off! However, after a few hours, it will be very firm, and in 48 hours it'll be rock solid.

#4 is very slow. #3 is quick. #16 is sloppier but good for what you are doing.

I'm not familiar with that product, but you might do a search for that name here on RC and see if you find any threads mentioning it succesfully.

If you just lower your water level 1", or wait for evaporation to occur, you can pretty much visually figure out where it will go. Once it is fully cured, hook it up and you'll be very happy to have your sump filled automatically.

Just remember to refill the resevoir.

headshrink
02/21/2004, 03:25 AM
Is it difficult to get the exact hight? With mine being so small.... a little too much evap will cause pumps to suck air and a little too high and I could have a flood if power shuts off (I do have a siphon break).

headshrink
02/21/2004, 03:29 AM
So I guess the exposed wires are ok? I will be using a relay.

melev
02/21/2004, 03:32 AM
You're gonna have to set it in the perfect spot. I'm sure you'll figure it out. You can test it before you glue it in place.

Lower the switch to add water, and when it floats up the water shuts off. You'll see what works, but you'll be tinkering for 10 minutes until you're happy. Mark the spot, then mount it.

Yes, the wires are fine. Put the relay in a dry spot.

DRT
02/21/2004, 08:01 AM
Another way to mount the switch, very inexpensive.

Ereefic
02/21/2004, 11:51 AM
Here's how I did mine, modeled after someone elses on this board.

melev
02/21/2004, 12:46 PM
I love the ingenuity I see on RC. There are so many ways to do something!

headshrink
02/21/2004, 02:45 PM
How to you attach the PVC pipe through the actylic plate?

headshrink
02/21/2004, 05:44 PM
I thought of another idea.... Marc, I will probably use your idea, but glue it to another strip at 90 degrees.... that way I can get it just right and glue the strip to the side of the sump. This will allow me to use little clamps that I got to hold it while it drys.

Lunchbucket
02/21/2004, 09:51 PM
hey thanks for that link..i'm too lazy to make one so i am gonna buy one of those double sump models and little pump for it!!

thanks!
Lunchbucket

Lunchbucket
02/21/2004, 09:59 PM
ordered it...should work PERFECT for me. now i don't have to rely on a crappy kent float!! i can have more than 1.5gal behind the float at one time w/ out worrying about it.

now i can have a tub under the stand w/ that little pump in it and not have to worry about it because i have the 2nd float for insurance.

i am sure i could have made this for about 12 (2 floats) plus a relay (no idea how much ) but these look nice and i needed a little pump like that....lazy me...but i NEED to make a skimmer :D

i was wondering what kind of top off i was gonna use the last couple days for my 24x24x20 and 20H w/ common sump i am gonna upgrade to. ....i thought about this set up and now i got one...THANKS!!

Lunchbucket

Ereefic
02/21/2004, 10:11 PM
Cool Lunchbucket, wanna see pics of the upgrade when it's running. We just picked up a 24x24x18 for a clam tank next to the main tank and run it into the same sump as the main tank. :D

Lunchbucket
02/21/2004, 10:15 PM
Ereefic - hey now that isn't funny :( i got to get a 20H FOWLR and you get a clam tank....dang maybe i could talk the fiancee into that....

nah too much electricity in a little apt anyhow...i KNOW i will get one later

got pics??
Lunchbucket

Ereefic
02/21/2004, 10:55 PM
I have pics but can't post on here, too big. The 45gal. cube will sit next to the 120gal. mixed reef. Both of those will flow into the 55gal sump and 30gal refugium in the basement. :D

We will be setting up a 110W (48x24x22) as a SPS only tank in the computer room because the room really wanted one. :lol:

Soooo, electricity, let me see........3x175w MH's & 2x65w PC Actinics(120gal.).....1x250w HQI(45gal. Clam Tank)........2x250w MH(probably (2) 4' VHO's on 110W) :eek1:

Electric company is going to love us. :lol:

Apartments suck, we had a 55gal. but they wouldn't let us go any bigger, we were on the second floor.

melev
02/22/2004, 04:07 AM
Lunchbucket, what did you order and from where? I just saw pictures of the floats, not a link... I'm confused.

Lunchbucket
02/22/2004, 10:24 AM
melev - if you look in the FIRST post there is a link to
http://www.autotopoff.com/faq.html

i went there to see what it was and if you click on products they sell float switch set ups.

i bought a double one http://www.autotopoff.com/products/double/index.htm

i could have made it but i figured why not just buy it...also might look into a double HOT for my moms tank that she is ALWAYS complaing about adding water to

Lunchbucket

melev
02/22/2004, 12:55 PM
Lunch, I didn't realize that was an item for sale. I thought it was just some guy's personal unit... Looks pretty nice, and should be reliable. The only thing some here won't like is that it isn't running at 12v (low voltage), but you could actually install one or two relays to make it so, later on.

fossill
02/22/2004, 02:41 PM
I recently added a sump to my 55 gal but I'm having one problem. If the siphon breaks the return pump will continue to pump until the sump is drained, is there any way around that besides putting in one of these float shut offs?

If the float shut off is all I need, I'm having trouble figuring out how it actually works. I've read the links and looked at the pictures. I see a smaller clear cylinder in some pictures and then the pics with that double something have a smaller cylinder and a big one, what do they do? So, basically, I want this shut off to shut off my return pump if the water in the sump gets too low, right?

melev
02/22/2004, 03:27 PM
If you set up a float switch to protect your sump from running dry, it will activate an external pump to pour water into your sump. The second float is to avoid overfilling the sump, in case there is too much water. It will cut power to the first float switch, which kills power to the external pump.

If you put one more float switch in your main tank, you can have your return pump plugged into that to shut off your pump if the tank gets too full. Just be careful to make a snail guard so critters can't trip the pump during their daily travels.