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View Full Version : Watts versus PAR? - help? I just want happy coral/fish!


nancysnuwave
12/03/2003, 03:39 PM
Hi Folks,

I'm leaning towards a lower cost/maintenance system, even if it a little compromise on placing Acro's higher in the tank, etc. The tank is a 72 x 18 x18 ( I think.. 135 gallon).

I'm thinking either VHO, T5 (HO?), or Power Compact (Compact Flourescent?).

Somewhere I saw a link which said to FORGET Watts as a concept of light radiating a tank.. .. What does that leave me? Lumens?

I think the reefer was suggesting that some units put out more PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) and less heat per $dollar$ of electricty.

Anyway.. could someone please help
[list=1]
Decide on ballast(s) - Workhorse or ICECAP
Suggest quantity of lights - say 4 or more 72 inch?
Suggest mix of color outputs?
Suggest a mix or not of bulb types? (VHO, T5 (HO?))
[/list=1]

DonJasper
12/03/2003, 04:57 PM
If you want to DIY - then a Fulham Workhorse 7 is much cheaper than an Icecap. If you're going to buy a pre-made unit - (shrug) dunno.

I don't think that there's a great deal of difference in effeciency between PowerCompact's and VHO. I bought some PC type floodlights - but will go VHO on the tank I'm building now. I'd suggest VHO. Why? You can put a 'normal' bulb you buy at a local hardware store in a VHO setup. So you're taking 40 watt bulb and hitting it with say 96 watts - and you'll get _about_ the same light output. Overdriving the bulb will shorten it's life to like six months. So what? That's about what you get out of a VHO bulb. (Of course the hardware bulb cost you like $2). You have to make sure that the connectors on the VHO setup will accept a local hardware store bulb. If you DIY - no problem. If you purchase then you might want to make that a purchase decision.

Forget Acro's - not gunna happen. There are some 'low light' SPS that will be happy, but you'll have to settle with the thousands of other corals that'll be happy in your tank. Took me about fifteen minutes to get over it.

Color is to your preference. Adding a little blue seems to make the colors stand more.

For my next tank I'm going to go with VHO - and be happy with whatever it is I get. I might fool around with these blue bulbs, depending on how expensive they are.

PS - The only meaningful measure is lumens - no matter the source. More lumens is better. Daylight is like 10,000 / sq ft. You'll never get that without MH, but can try to come as close as you can. I figure my reef is under constant cloud cover! :D

nancysnuwave
12/03/2003, 08:11 PM
Thanks, Don,

I appreciate the encouragement! I think VHO it will be!




Chris

Dexter1334
12/05/2003, 11:41 AM
Hi,

off the topic, the dimensions of your tank equal a 100 gal,

Gallons equal LXWXH divided by 231.

I bought one that was 72X18X24 and the label said 125,
I just purchased this light for it. It is VHO.

Custom SeaLife PowerCompact with Moon-Lite, 4x96w, 72 inch (CL25472) from
MarineAndReef.com

Electric rates in my area are very high, and between that and the heat metal halides put out, I decided to go with these. There are two 10K actinics and two daylight bulbs, plus the moonlights for nighttime. The light looks nice, time will tell how well the life in the awuarium responds to it, but it puts out about 400 watts which is what is recommended for soft corals.

Good luck with your tank.

Dexter1334
12/05/2003, 11:41 AM
Hi,

off the topic, the dimensions of your tank equal a 100 gal,

Gallons equal LXWXH divided by 231.

I bought one that was 72X18X24 and the label said 125,
I just purchased this light for it. It is VHO.

Custom SeaLife PowerCompact with Moon-Lite, 4x96w, 72 inch (CL25472) from
MarineAndReef.com

Electric rates in my area are very high, and between that and the heat metal halides put out, I decided to go with these. There are two 10K actinics and two daylight bulbs, plus the moonlights for nighttime. The light looks nice, time will tell how well the life in the aquarium responds to it, but it puts out about 400 watts which is what is recommended for soft corals. For my size tank.

Good luck with your tank.

MiddletonMark
12/05/2003, 12:14 PM
Personally, I'll be devil's advocate and suggest 3 150w HQI pendants. Yeah, MH ... but you're not going SPS or clam without them.

Bulbs last 1+ year @ maybe $65 [3 of them ... under $200/year replacement]. Total power use, 450W to keep most anything.

PC's ... 4 x 96 = total power use 384 watts, much more limited livestock, growth. Bulb replacement ... 4 x $40 ... every 6-9 months = $160 every 6-9 months for bulb replacement.

IMO, yeah, sticker price is high with MH ... but the heat is over-rated [unless you have 400's, or totally no fan closed canopy]. Pendants give little heat issue, give an outrageous amount of light [= freedom in stocking!] ... and when you compare bulb price over the long run - gets cheaper and cheaper to go MH.

Just my 2 cents. Otherwise, I'd go T5, as bulb replacement is said to be much better, reflector/bulb much more efficient, and better intensity for the power you use.

Good luck!
[just had to be the devil's [aka MH] advocate ... as I have 2 tanks, one with MH's, one with PC's ... and the PC bulb replacement has gotten more and more painful given how long my MH's hold intensity.]

Marc Euschen
12/06/2003, 02:53 PM
Hi I know a lot of people arround europe that are using T5 for their LPS - SPS tanks eiht great success. I use 2x 250W HQI....

The issue with PAR is, that a 250W HQI Bulb with 10'000k emits the same amount of PAR as a 150W 6500k !
So you rather use a 6500k setup with some T5 or T8 actinic's...

jackson6745
12/06/2003, 05:57 PM
If you don't want to go halides, T5's on an Icecap ballast will give you the most amout of Par. I have also seen some SPS tanks with really nice color using T5's.

Marc Euschen
12/06/2003, 07:44 PM
The only problem with T5 I've seen so far was that there was no more "play" in the light, since it is very uniform lighting.
On one hand its good, because there is virtualy now shade anymore, which leads to much nicer coral grow (more natural), on the other hand it makes the tank look a bit sterile since most to all of the reflections are gone !

I've seen people exepriment with T5 and 150W HQI's to get a compromise, but whit no good results. I guess its because the differenz in power of the T5 to the 150W is to small.... 400w HQI might make a difference, but then there is no pint of having the T5's anymore..