? about neptune aqua controller

[CORALFISHG]

i am wnating to purchace all my controllers but have a question.. i really want to get the neptune aqua controller, but was wandering if i whould need to buy all the monitors sepretly (orp, temp, salenity, ect...) or just buy the probes.. thanks for any help.. jason

[JPerkins]

I've been looking at these actually.

The unit itself has the monitors, you just need probes. Some places make kits with probes (lab or std grade), calibration fluids and X10 controllers/modules built in.

Nice but pricey.

The system I want is like 700+ total. I didn't think they did salinity though.

[moonpod]

For 700 or so, a neptune setup should include conductivity/salinity. W/O that option it'll be like 2-300 cheaper.

[cerreta]

Agreed with above. The typical parameters that offer the most benefit for your buck is pH, ORP, and temp. You can get this from Neptune with the probes for about $400.00.

pH = "pressure of Hydrogen ions." Measures acidic content of seawater.

ORP = "Oxidation Reduction Potential." This value is useful for determining organic breakdown in the water. Values around 300-400 are normal and the value should stay consistant. If the value drops 50 or more points, this indicates organic decay. In other words, something is dying in the tank. This is a great tool for tanks with lots of animals, where if one dies, you may not notice it for weeks, but the ORP will give you clues to a dying animal so it can be removed from the tank sooner. Obviously, the ORP value will rise to the normal level within a couple days.

Conductivity is an indirect way of monitoring salinity. An electrical discharge from a powerhead can effect the reading as well, since conductivity measures electrical charge. These probes are very expensive and not a great valvue.

A better investment would be to buy one or two grounding probes to reduce all electrical discharge into the water instead of trying to measure the value. Also, buy a good salt refractometer to measure the salinity accurately. These items may cost $75.00 in lieu of the $150+ conductivity probes.

BTW, the aquacontroller does not offer a conductivity probe. If you want this, you will need to by the Octopus 2000 controller. This is a very nice controller with great software and more functions than the former. However, you will pay around $700 and up for this toy.

Cheers,
Scott

[moonpod]

Actually the Aquacontroller "Pro" offers conductivity. Again, in practice you've gotta set it up all particular to get accurate readings. Not worth the extra 2-300 IMO. There is also dissolved oxygen monitoring, but again, what are you gonna do w/that???

[Rendos]

I have an AquaController I on my 120 gallon and a AquaController 1.5 on my 54 gallon. You can get them with or without the probes. In my opinion, the conductivity monitoring is not worth the money. It does a great job with pH, ORP, and temp. along with all the timer functions.

[SWANN]

Bringing this old thread alive...

I am also looking into The aqua controller2/pro..

I can get a aquacontroller pro for about 530. Is this worth it? or should I just get the aquacontroller 2 monitor..and but all the add-ons, probes, software.. seperate. If i'm reading the PRO's description right it comes with all this ..right??


Thanks Swann

[moonpod]

Uhm, that's a phenomenal price on the pro, I'd make sure that price includes probes and what not. That's where you'll get creamed. I think I payed around 4 for a ACII w/probes and some x10 stuff. There are these "packages", and generally they include the monitor and some probes and some starter x10 stuff. The thing that's a big cost upgrade is the software, which personally I don't use. I'm not about to leave a computer hooked up to my tank in addition to all the other c$#p.

[SWANN]

Will I'm getting it through the LFS I work part time at. None the less ..Premium aquatics sell them for 589.99 , not to much more Than I'm getting mine at. Take a look at premiums would you, or someone. .. This comes with the probes and all right?
AQUACON. PRO..

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=NEP-ACPRO&Category_Code=Neptune

They also have a AquaController 2 Package for 499.00

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=NEP-COMB1&Category_Code=Neptune

So the PRO..is the upgraded vers of AquaCont. 2 , right? Or is the "PRO" really just an Aqua Controll 2- Just with all the probes and stuff..so there calling it "PRO"?? ..i'm confused.Is the Pro that much better?


Thanks, SWANN

[leykis1o1]

the cheapest place for aquacontrollers and awesome service is Aquadirect.com

[leykis1o1]

the other place youll get "creamed" is the x10 relays...also you dont have the leave your computer connected to the controller if you use the software..i highly recomend the software though it makes programming intuitive and easy...you can also program the controller with a few more things than you can the controller alone...just a few hidden settings and values you can change that you cant with the controller alone...you can allways lengthen the cord from the pc to the controller to practically any length quite easy!!

[ToddG.]

If you shop around you can save alot of money I got my aquacontroller II of ebay for $350 for base unit all three probs ph orp and temp also came with 2 X-10s and controll interface then I purchased 6x-10s from the same seller for $50 dollars plus he threw in a extra one so 7 total for $50 Then I purchased aquanotes 3.0 from a source for $25 so I have $425 in the whole thing if anyone would like the email addy of the guy I purchased this from Ill send it also if anyone wants a copy of aquanotes 3.0 let me know.

[JPerkins]

ToddG, was this a new unit? If so, are they covered by warranty?

[SWANN]

Hey if Those Controllers are brand new..and under warranty..I'll take one. But either way..send me the info.. My email is cswann821@hotmail.com So i can check it out. Also ..as you can see I dont HAve one yet..but when I do..what needs to be done to extend the chord or what ever to reach my computer..its about 20ft from my tank..probably a little less. Also I'm waiting for someone to tell me The difference between the 499 Aquaccontroller2 package and the aquaController PRO for 589..on premeium Aquatics web site???

Thanks Swann

[SWANN]

AquaDirect has a really good cross/ Item discr. Between the Aqua2 and the pro.. Thanks for the site.

[SWANN]

Does anyone really use the ORP function on the controller?(I know it comes with the controller already though) Its has something todo with organic waste right? And as far as that is concerned, who uses the ozone injection system ? isnt ozone bad for your tank??? Dont know much about ORP.(whats it really stand for anyway :).

[angiras]

silly question - do any of the aquacontroller probes directly measure salinity?

-Ben

edit, I should have read all of the responses - so basically get an aquacontroller for everything but keep a refractometer handy? I just wish for that amount of money, it could reliably report everything

[Toby Thompson]

Its a little above me too, but I believe it stands for Oxegen Reduction Potential don't quote me on that, especially since I can't spel gud :D

[Toby Thompson]

I would really like to keep my salinity on the log also, but I dont want it $300 worth.

[leykis1o1]

i use the orp function to monitor my tank health..thinks can rapidly get out of hand and it is a tool i wouldnt do without once you get one...you can control your orp using a vitamin C doser and a Ozone generator and a UV light...you can control the quality in your tank exactly...really cool ..you can even tell if somthing died watching the orp....

[moonpod]

Originally posted by angiras
silly question - do any of the aquacontroller probes directly measure salinity?

-Ben

edit, I should have read all of the responses - so basically get an aquacontroller for everything but keep a refractometer handy? I just wish for that amount of money, it could reliably report everything

No, but conductivity is directly related to salinity--however it's very touchy and hard to get setup just right for dependable readings. A very convenient thing is either a refractometer, or I got a hanna salinity "pen".

[cerreta]

ORP is "Oxidation Reduction Potential". I answered this early in the thread because I know many people are confused about it.
It is just as valuable as monitoring pH.

To explain a little further, ORP is a potential energy. In other words, ORP is a value that determines the ability of your water "to do work."

True ORP is measured in negative millivolts. However, most monitors record the value as a positive value to simplify the display. Therefore, a normal ORP value of "-360mv" will be displayed as "360".

In chemical terminology, electrons represent a negative charge. Electrons can be thought of as a source of energy. ORP measures this flow of energy.

Here are two examples of the importance of monitoring ORP:

1. This morning my ORP was at -360mv. I added a calcium supplement to the water. According to a chemistry periodic table, calcium is Ca2+. That means it is a positive cation with a plus 2 charge. Therefore, you would expect the ORP to become more positive in value. This is precisely what occurred in my tank. 20 minutes after adding the supplement, my ORP was -320mv. An overall change of +40mv. This is a good example of inorganic changes in the water column. Adding other cation supplements to your water has a similar effect.
Now, what is cool about understanding ORP is that the value will return to the norm of -360mv. What determines the speed at which the value returns to normal is the rate of converting Ca2+ ion into the tissues of stony corals and other animals, to a much smaller degree. Remember, fish require calcium to build bones too. So, a tank with lots of stony coral will theoretically use up the calcium ions much quicker than a tank with less stony corals.

2. What do you think occurs after the death of an animal? The organic materials within the tissues become recycled. This process is known as catabolism, the breakdown of organic material. So, how does ORP fit into this scenario? Well, the process of catabolism requires energy. So, our potential energy as stored in ORP will begin to do work. The value of -360mv will become more positive. In cases of fish death, it is common to see a value change +100mv. So, your ORP will now be observed at -260mv. This is an indication to the aquarist that something is decaying. If you cannot find and remove the fish, than it will take longer for the ORP value to return to normal.
Now, as you can image, the quality of your system "to do work" has been diminished during this decay process. This means two things. One, the anabolic processes (building organic tissue), like the continued growth of corals will be severely retarded during this lowered ORP phase. Two, if another animal death were to occur, this will further lower the ORP value and can cause serious damage to animals as well as enhancing the opportunity for parasitic infections and algal growth. The bottom line is to determine the cause of falling ORP, and in the case of fish death, remove it ASAP.

Controversially, some aquarists prefer to allow dying animals to decay in their tank, "allowing nature to take its course." I strongly discourage this practice. In the ocean, ORP values remain nearly constant all the time due to the huge water turnover rate and vast size. However, in a closed environment, as seen in example two above, the consequences of catabolic processes can cause more problems than one is willing to negotiate with.

Therefore, ORP is a valuable tool that gives the aquarist the ability to "see" physiological changes as they are taking place.

Remember, simply said, ORP is the ability to do work. The higher the value, the better. When ORP values dip, one should investigate the cause and alleviate the problem. Two likely causes are animal death and the addition of ionic supplements.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Scott

[Cathy8424]

Thank you very much for the understandable ORP information. I just bought my aqua controller II and didn't know anything about the OPR. Now I have another valuable tool.

[CORALFISHG]

hay guys.. i went ahead and got the aqua controller used from a guy here on the site. it came with the probes, x10's, external modem, cable, and the software. my question is with the probes.. when i got them they did not have any caps on them, therefore they were not shipped in the solution that they were supposed to. can i still use these, or are they bad now.. also, the guy didin't tell me until after i had sent the money (go figure) but this was the aquacontroller 1.50, which was the first one that was produced. is this unit still pretty good, or should i of saved my money. i picked everything up for 280$ (he wanted 350$ for everything, but im gunna wait to hear back from you guys before i send him the rest of the money..)



jason

[cerreta]

Jason, the latest version is a 1.60. The Aquanotes latest version is a 3.0. I don't believe you had the oldest model. Is the device an Aquacontroller or an Aquacontroller II? If it is an Aquacontroller II than you did great. As for the probes, being shipped without caps is not so bad as long as they havbe not been stored that way for an extended period of time. The best way to check is to calibrate the probes and put them in use. If you don't have calibration solution on hand, then you can do a quick check by measuring your tank water (should be around pH 8.0-8.5) then dip the probe in RO/DI water. The RO water will be a pH of 7.0. Tap water should be around 6.8-7.2 if that is all you have. I believe the money you invested was a bargain regardless of the model, provided that the probes work. BTW, you can go to the neptune webpage and download manuals. You can also upgrade the controller for minimal fees.


Post back the results.
Cheers,
Scott