Possible to build Durso on a back-drilled tank?

[AquAddiction]

I just wanted to run this by everyone before I start building...

I have an 80 AGA which is drilled in the back panel with a 1.5" bulkhead.

I need to build a Durso standpipe to reduce the noise.

Here are the parts that I was going to purchase and put together:

bulkhead --> 1.5" male x slip connector --> 1.5" 90 degree elbow --> 1.5" pvc pipe --> 1.5" tee fitting --> 1.5" 90 degree street ell, 1.5" endcap

My tank isn't the typical bottom-drilled tank, therefore I must incoorporate the 90 degree elbow. Will this work? Do I need to oversize the pipe to the bulkhead? Any modifications or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

The Durso website talked about using teflon tape to seal some of the slip connections??? Is that right? Will it be waterproof? :confused:

[singularity]

I posted <A HREF="http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=201650">a thread with pictures</A> of my modified exernal Durso.

I am going to be getting water in the tank on Saturday to test everything out.

Notes: The small black thing on the top of an air control valve attached to some airline that goes down below the T juncture. The control valve is from a Maxijet.

As far as teflon tape goes - I used all slip connections to make sure of no leaks. I figured I would end up cementing PVC at one point or the other, so I might as well do it on all the connections.

One thing I wish I had done is to add some PVC coming out of the top of the T (going up) to make sure it was above the water lines. I have a paranoid fear that might come back to haunt me.

http://www.vampy-alumni.org/octopus/pictures/overflow/externaldurso.jpg
Details: All is 3/4 inch PCV on a 75 AGA. Holes are 1.5 inch, one in each back corner (you can see the other overflow in the background).

[Baron]

Yes, it would work I took a standard 55gal and drilled a hole in the back about 1" up from the bottom and put a bulkhead. I built my own corner overflow like a reef ready tank. I have a 90 degree elbow and built the durso up from that.

I did go to a larger diameter pipe as the durso site suggest. I did it because I had never made one before at the time. It has been working fine for 2 years without any problems.

Good Luck!
Baron

[ReefVan]

:D AquAddiction,
My tank isn't the typical bottom-drilled tank, therefore I must incoorporate the 90 degree elbow. Will this work? Do I need to oversize the pipe to the bulkhead? Any modifications or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I gather from this statement that the hole is at the lower of the tank and not the upper as suggested by "singularity"?

If so, the elbow at the bottom of the Durso where it will go thru the tank wall should go a long way in cutting the gurgling noise.

One of my reefer buddies has an elbow with a straight pipe in his 180 and there's very little noise.

I'm presently installing a couple of Stockman mod Durso's that I built onto my 220. I'll let you know how it works out. ;)

I'm using 2" pvc on my Stockman Mod overflow pipes and from what I've read they really cut back on the noise.

The good thing about using the 1.5" pipe is that if you upgrade to a higher output pump, the overflows should be able to keep up.

Van :cool:

[reefRook]

When I had my 135 I had a similar issue, what I did was basically like the attached pic, singularity, I used your pic as a starting point as I did not do a diagram of mine when I did it a few years ago.

I DID have to modify the 45's and the T PVC connections by shortening them up to fit in the overflow box, but it worked great. I wanted to minimize the amount of space I needed to keep the tank from the wall.

[AquAddiction]

Originally posted by ReefVan
[B I gather from this statement that the hole is at the lower of the tank and not the upper as suggested by "singularity"?
[/B]

Yes, it is drilled low in the tank exactly as Baron described with an acrylic corner overflow surrounding it.

Thank you for all of your comments.

Just to clarify... I SHOULD oversize the pipe and fittings to 2"???

I am kinday leery about what the durso site says:
However, there does not seem to be any need to oversize the standpipe for larger bulkheads such as 1.5 inch. Larger bulkheads can use PVC pipe & fittings that match the size of the bulkhead.

..so should I stick with 1.5" pipe and fittings??? :confused:

Anyone with personal experience with oversizing (or not oversizing) 1.5" pipe & fittings?

[reefRook]

Yes, you should oversize. I don't know if you need to go as large as 2". If the PVC is 1" (probably is with a 1.5" bulkhead) then you can go with 1.5" PVC and reduce it down to the 1" where it goes into the bulkhead. This is the section of PVC in the overflow.

Putting in 2" will not help your flow rate much, or at all. The only benefit you will get with 2" is a little less friction loss. The limiting factor is the bulkhead.

If I'm not mistaken the same hold true with the PVC / overflow line going to the sump.

[ReefVan]

:D reefRook,
Yes, you should oversize. I don't know if you need to go as large as 2".
Just to clarify, my reason for 2" overflows is the 2" bulkheads in my drilled tank. Mega flow :p

Does make sense what you say for smaller bulkheads. Don't put too big a pipe for nothing. ;)

Van :cool:

[wedfr]

sigularity, i hope you didnt put water in yet, the way you have your bulkhead is backwards, itll work like that i have soem on my tank facing that way but you need the gasket on the outsude or the water will work through teh treads and leak out teh back, when i put them on liek this i put a gasket on each side just to be safe.

I cant see if you actually have it liek this already, i hope so

[Red Sea Purple Tang]

singularity~

Can you please tell me the purpose of the air line on the top of the external "T"? Have you had success with it already?


I'm doing something similar and before I cement the PVC together, I wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking a good idea. :rollface:

[ReefVan]

:D Red Sea Purple Tang,
Can you please tell me the purpose of the air line on the top of the external "T"?
The hole is to allow air to enter the tube assembly so as to prevent a suction trap due to water falling down the pipe.

The size of the hole governs how smooth an operation you make this, but be careful, that hole when made too large causes the opposite effect. :p

On my external CPR overflow they use a length of rigid airline tube with an O-Ring on it to hold it at the height you have set. ;)

The secret is to slowly move the rigid tube up or down until you hit the "sweet-spot" where water gurgling and noise is cut to a minimum. The O-Ring will hold the pipe there, much easier to adjust than a length of airline tubing. :)

Van :cool:

[Red Sea Purple Tang]

ReefVan~

Thanks for the helpful info. I was thinking it was for noise but wasn't sure. I'll give it a try.