Ballast Conspiracy....

[skylsdale]

I was just thinking about this and thought I would post for a bit more info/clarification. Now, in dealing with the retros where you can run both 36W bulbs and 55W bulbs off the same ballast (AHSupply's kits are an example), doesn't one of these wattages of bulbs have to ethier be severely underdriven or overdriven to be run off the same ballast?

[new2]

I believe that the ballasts are electronic and can "sense" the bulb wattage and output accordingly?

[skylsdale]

I've never heard of that before... not sure how true it is.

[Acolin]

Only electronic ballasts are capable of overdriving normal output fluorescent bulbs. They not only drive the NO bulbs safely, but they also increase their output as well. Electronic ballasts can drive both VHO and NO bulbs on the same ballast. An electronic ballast efficiently operates T-8, T-12, NO, High Output (HO) and VHO bulbs at cooler temperatures and extended life compared to standard ballasts.

[skylsdale]

Guess I should have been more specific, but I'm talking PC's here...does all that still apply(I thought they were in the T5 range)?

[tag007]

Both new2 and Acolin are both right.
I have done several experiments with ballasts and lights. Currently I run two 27 watt PC's and overdrive(~50 watts from a 30 watt bulb) 1 actinic on a T8 $20 ballast. Ballast runs relative cool as do the bulbs.
You are right, It is a conspiracy. I get about a year out of each bulb, and costs me less than $20/year to replace them.
That is $40 down /$20 a year for over 100 watts. And if I find a cheap bulb, I just rewire the sucker to work with that bulb. That is why I am using the 27watt PC's. 6500k 27watt pc lamps for $3. I bought alot.
I am now trying even more lamp/ballast combos, working with the workhourse 7 ballasts(~$40). It is amazing to me there isn't more research being done on this subject here at RC.
Hood manufacturers are realizing this, and making good $ off this info. You will find alot of them use the WH7 for there PC hoods.