Starphire overflow box?

[Fishiness?]

I'm in the process of ordering a Starphire tank from Mitch at Inter-American. The tank is approximately 100 gallons. The dimensions are: 48" Long x 24" Deep x 20" High. I'm getting a 1" drain and a 3/4" return in each overflow.

1. How big should my overflow box be?

I was thinking something along the lines of the Oceanic 120g overflow box which is 9" x 6" (I believe. Is this correct?)

2. What is the placement of the holes (drain and return) in the overflow box?

3. Should I go with the egg crate style overflow (I'm wondering if the flow would be too great... because I will have 2 corner overflows instead of one) OR should I use the "teeth" style?

4. What is the difference between the black and the clear silicone? I was thinking of using clear (so that you wouldn't see it as well), but I notice that a lot of reefers are using black. Why?

Cheers, A.

[newkie]

Comments below... also take a look at my new tank for ideas: http://www.livinglava.com/newtank.htm
Originally posted by Fishiness?
I'm in the process of ordering a Starphire tank from Mitch at Inter-American. The tank is approximately 100 gallons. The dimensions are: 48" Long x 24" Deep x 20" High. I'm getting a 1" drain and a 3/4" return in each overflow.

nice depth but why so short.. is this a grow out tank? I would opt for at least 24" tall. And make sure you specify the height to be glass height (glass @ 20" in your case) because the styrofoam, plywood, and trim take a few inches

1. How big should my overflow box be?
I was thinking something along the lines of the Oceanic 120g overflow box which is 9" x 6" (I believe. Is this correct?)
It depends on whether you are getting euro-bracing or not. If not, basically all you have to do is ask Mitch for the hole size needed for a particular bulkhead. Keep in mind that holes must be drilled 3" from the edge of the glass and at least 2" from each other. From there you can determine your overflow box size (Mitch will help).
2. What is the placement of the holes (drain and return) in the overflow box?
Up to you, usually the drain is in the corner and the return next to it. For such a short tank you could always opt for one large corner overflow or a center overflow.
3. Should I go with the egg crate style overflow (I'm wondering if the flow would be too great... because I will have 2 corner overflows instead of one) OR should I use the "teeth" style?
Go with the egg crate style.. you'll get a lot more flow that way. Why would you be worried about too much flow? For an overflow, that doesn't make sense. The amount that will drain will be determined by the height of the overflow vs the height of the tank. I believe the eggcrate is 1 1/4" so in your tank you would want a sump to be capable of (48x24x1.25)/231 = X gallons. The amount of water normally in the sump, normally 4-6" so WxLxH of sump divided by 231 plus the number X from above equals the minimum size of the sump (assuming siphon breaks for the returns).
4. What is the difference between the black and the clear silicone? I was thinking of using clear (so that you wouldn't see it as well), but I notice that a lot of reefers are using black. Why?
Its just personal preference. Personally I think the black silicon is quite striking.
Cheers, A.

[Fishiness?]

Newkie - Your specs look good. Really detailed... probably helps to get what you ordered, I imagine.

The reason for the 20" depth;
1. I like the look of a more horizontal ratio (like a wide screen
tv...he,he.)
2. More importantly, the 20" depth will be better for high column
SPS's with the 250W MH's.
3. Fish swim horizontally, not vertically, so the extra height IMO
isn't needed.
4. It's easier to reach to the bottom of the tank.
5. Less LR to make the tank stocked (better looking, IMO)
6. Hoping that I can get away without Euro-bracing on a 20"
height. (less headache)

Just my choice. This is not a grow out tank... it's my 1st reef tank,... but I figure that by starting at this size I won't need a new tank for a while :). Plus, I will have a larger water volume than a smaller starter reef --- more stable water conditions.

Good point with the 20" GLASS height... I'll have to mention that to Mitch.

For such a short tank you could always opt for one large corner overflow or a center overflow.

• The reason I have put two corner overflows in (each corner) is;
1. For a symmetrical look
2. More flow/circulation;
(1" drain in each overflow --- 750gph each = 1500gph)
(3/4" drain --- 10" up on the side of each overflow box --- a CLOSED LOOP, but not drilled through the back wall --- draining through a 3/4" hole in the overflow box (usually used for a return line) down to an AMPmaster 3000 returning up the back of the tank to TWO 3/4" Sea Swirls mounted on either side next to the overflow box --- 2 3/4" SS's @ 850gph each = 1700gph)

TOTAL flow is 3200gph (32 times the 100 gallon tank per hour). I think the SPS's will be happy. :)

Let me know what you think?

Cheers.

[dnjan]

48x24x20 top to bottom - same dimensions as my tank (acrylic, not glass). For pretty much the same reasons you stated.

Question - are your overflows going out the back, or through the bottom?

[Fishiness?]

Don -

The overflow drain (1") per side would drain just like any All-Glass or Oceanic tank --- down through the overflow and through the bottom of the tank.

The hole for the return line (3/4") would be used for a drain as part of the closed-loop... BUT instead of going right to the top of the overflow column a 3/4" bulkhead would be drilled in the overflow 10" from the bottom of the tank. So, water would flow through a strainer into the 3/4" bulkhead on the SIDE of the overflow box and down the 3/4" PVC pipe (where the 3/4" return would normally be) to the Amp Master 3000 --- for the closed loop --- then return up the back of the tank and be tee'd to 2 3/4" Sea Swirls. [The 3/4" bulkhead would be on each overflow, drain under the tank and be tee'd to a 1.5" PVC pipe that would fit the Ampmaster 3000 ---- the same on the exit except going to the 2 Sea Swirls. >>> The only thing that this way of doing a closed-loop acheives is hiding the 3/4" bulkhead on each of the sides of the overflow box rather than having a 1.5" hole drilled in the back of your tank... where it can be seen depending on how you aquascape.

Total flow should be 1700 + 1500 = 3200 gph (100g tank)

With 1500 gph flowing from the dual overflows I am trying to figure out what size of sump/refuge I need;
•30 gallons?
•40 gallons?
•50 gallons?

Let me know what you think? Oh yeah, the return pump from the sump is a MAG 18.

Cheers, a.

[Tcook]

Newkie,

Is Inter-American making your stand as well? How much did it cost you if you don't mind my asking?

[Nanook]

New, bigger tank Tom? Or just a new stand?

Nanook;)

[dnjan]

If you have the space behind your tank (about 4" is all that is needed), why not run your overflows out the back rather than the bottom? The overflow box only has to be about 4" top to bottom then, and you can put corals below the box. I have a bubble under one of mine, and it gets plenty of light there.

[Fishiness?]

Don -

I want dual overflow boxes... 1 in each corner (just like the Oceanic RR tanks). It's just a choice. I like the symmetry of 2 overflow boxes, it gives me more flow for circulation, I feel that it blends in better with the background than small 4" overflow boxes that sit on the lip of the tank (shadows from the bottom of the boxes, etc.) and I would like to get the tank as close to the wall as possible so that from each of the sides you don't see plumbing.... a super run-on sentence I realize :) sorry.

I guess that it basically boils down to personal preference.

I was talking to MtnDewMan and he made the point also that by placing the 3/4" bulkheads near the bottom of the tank (for me in the side of the overflow box) your circulation is improved. (ie. Water gets sucked in from the bottom and re-introduced at the top... a circular pattern.)

[dnjan]

I fully agree with the (symmetrical) dual overflows. That is what I have.

But I don't think there is really a shadow problem under the box. My bubble coral likes it just fine under the left overflow box (I have a "pod pile" under the right one).

Clearance behind the tank is the big issue. With overflows going out the back you need to have enough space between the tank and the wall for the union between the overflow elbo and the overflow pipe. About 3-1/2 to 4 in for 1-1/4" pipe. In my case, that was acceptable, as I have the fans in the hood on the back side (outside the hood) and I needed the clearance to have some room around them anyway.

How thick is the starfire glass on your tank? If I ever build in a tank in my basement, I was thinking of starfire on the two viewable sides. Since it would be built in, it would probably be diy.

[mojosreef]

I have an 80g the only diff is that mine is 19" deep instead of 24". I went with a center over flow. 10" wide with 1 1/2" drain and 1" return. I really like this set up. I was going with the corner overflows and changed at the last minute and I am glad I did. Both ends of the tank have full view. Great view on three sides. Nothing to obstruct view. I have plenty of flow. I have 4 outlets plumbed with a Mag24 feeding the outlets. No power heads need. This set up gives a very clean look. The only draw back is that it does eat up a little realestate. You might want to consider a center oferflow. Also a single overflow is easier to plumb.

[Tcook]

Originally posted by Nanook
New, bigger tank Tom? Or just a new stand?

Nanook;) Only if you can help talk my wife into it:D I was considering the tubular stand to save space when I build in my 120. I like how newkie's stand has no center braces.