How is this sump setup?

[planetg]

Planning a sump for my 120G.

I have already gotten a H&S skimmer and planning an external pump (maybe Iwaki)

Need comments...

Thanx a lot

[ecugman]

The only POTENTIAL problem I see is if you get any bubble coming from your refugium they could be pumped back into your main tank.

With a low flowrate coming from the refugium that shouldn't be a problem, the rest of the design looks good to me.

[kennerd]

I agree: why not just plumb the return bulkhead in the tank/skimmer return area. Just a different location on the same piece of material.

[planetg]

why didn't i think of that!!! haha
i've attached an update plus dimensions.

more comments pls...

[Lilgrasshopper]

Looks good. All you need now is a probe/floatswitch holder along with tapping a hole for the Kent float valve for your automatic top-off and you're pretty much set.

[jagster]

I have a 120 gal tank (48" x 24" x 24") and it looks as if your sump is close to the same size as mine (mine is 30" long). But mut skimmer is in the sump so the overall length of your system (skimmer to end of sump) is about 30". Also, I used an Iwaki external pump. So, I have a few suggestions you may want to think about.

I wanted to add a valve between the sump and pump so I could remove the pump if necessary. 1" PVC valves are about 4" long. The piping, valve and pump totalled more than the 18" (48" - 30") of "length" I had left in the cabinet. I still added the valve, but had to install 2 - 90 degree elbows in the piping after the valve so I had room for the pump. I hope this is clear, a sketch would be better!!!

Also, I installed a valve on the pump supply line, again so I could remove the pump if necessary.

The biggest mistake I made, but corrected about 2 months ago was that I used all the fittings on the supply line that came with the tank. A rule of thumb for pumps is if the discharge of the pump is 1", all discharge piping should be 1", etc. I used 1" piping from the pump to the bulkhead on the bottom of the tank, but from there I used the fittings that came with the tank. Those fiittings had considerable restrictions, bends, etc. My pump was rated for 1200 gph at 4 feet of head. I was only gettting about 400 gph into the tank!! The bulkhead on the bottom of the tank had a 1" inlet to a 3/4" outlet. 2 months ago I replumbed everything from the bulkhead to the tank with 3/4" pvc pipe and fittings (didn't want to try to enlarge the bulkhead hole for a 1"/1"). My return now into my tank is approx. 950 gph. My only head losses are the 2 elbows on the suction line, the 1" to 3/4" constriction and the elevation.

Anyway, hope this makes some sense and provides some help!!!
:rollface:

[planetg]

jagster,

thanx for you advice.
i get your point about the valves on the pump but would like to clarify on point 2 you've made.

does it mean that i shld use 1" piping from durso all the way to the sump, and then at the return pump, 3/4" piping all the way back to the tank? btw, are your iwaki threads 1" or 3/4"

thanx again

[jagster]

PlanetG,

Yes, my Iwaki pump has a 1" inlet and outlet. To clarify - (I had a few mistakes in my post yesterday) - my tank came with a hole for a 3/4" bulkhead on the pump supply line and a hole for a 1" bulkhead on the gravity return line to the sump. If I could do it again I would have increased the size of both holes so I could run all 1" piping on the pupply side and 1.5" on the gravity return. As I said, I figured the tank manufacturer knew more than me, so i plumbed it as is with the fittings provided. When I modified it the supply line is 1" from the pump to the bulkhead, then 3/4" the rest of the way to the tank inlet. The gravity return is still all 1".

My system is running fine, but it is borderline!! What I mean is, I am getting about 950 gph return now from the 1200 gph rated pump. If I could make the supply line all 1" I would get approximately 1000- 1050 gph. BUT....the gravity return line, at 1", would not be large enough to keep up, so I would still have to throttle back the pump to about where I am now! Remember that this is all one system, the gravity return line has losses from bends, flow through filters, etc.

I could try to make the bulkhead holes larger for larger bulkheads, but it is fairly difficult with an operating tank!!

So, if you haven't got started, I would recommend you try to do this. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Maybe i can help!!!

Also, just remembered I forgot to mention yesterday, if you want to put on the valves so you can remove the pump, don't forget you also need to add in a union in the piping between the valve and pump.

[jagster]

PlanetG,

One last thought. If you haven't started your plumbing yet, take your time. When I redid mine, I was in a hurry to get the water flowing again. I probably should have let the PVC cement dry longer. I lost two large leather corals soon afterwards, and a couple of my sps bleached. My water parameters are all pretty good. I'm not sure, but my guess is some of the glue got in the water and added toxins.

:mad:

[Cary Oki]

your design looks good to me. like others have stated, take your time when doing the plumming.

good luck-

[planetg]

thanx for the advice guys.

do you think it's a good idea to plumb my returns with 2 pumps instead of one. i was thinking of eheim 1262 (3600l/hr)

[ecugman]

I chose to go with 2 pumps for my returns. They are plugged into different electrical circuits so if one breaker trips (or the pump quits) I still have flow back to my tank.

I went with Mag12 pumps and I have to throttle them back a little so my overflows (1") can keep up.