Going rate on Anemones...

[Butter]

Hello everyone,
I have never owned them but want to.
(1) Wondering if a few of you could post your opinions of what is the 'going rate' for anemones, ie) a "big" (maybe 8-10" across) purple tipped sebae and a "smaller" 4-5" bubble tip. In a local fish store where I'm at (Milwaukee, WI) the cost was $40 and $50 respectively for these two guys.
(2) I am wondering if it is better to go with the LFS or seek out web-based sellers of anemones.
Your feedback appreciated on either of these two points.
Thanks -
p.s. Can a percula or ocellaris host either of these two? I have read conflicting web info on the likelihood so anyone's actual experiences with this would be great.

[SeanT]

If your LFS is clean and well maintained I would buy from them after observing the animal over the course of a week or two.
Ask them to feed it so you can see it grab the chow and put it into its mouth.

How long has your tank been up and running?

[lawndoctor]

I bought a beautiful, healthy Heteractis crispa (one of the three species commonly called "sebae") from CQuarium. They are a sponsor on this board, so you can go right from here to their web site, which has pictures of what they have in stock. They were great, not only because they sent me a really nice specimen, but they called me the day my order was supposed to be shipped to let me know that the specimen I had picked from a photo on their web site had been slightly damaged, and they offered to pick and send a different specimen. I've never seen such a great specimen in any of the LFSs in my area.

If you want an Entacmaea Quadricolor ("bubble tip"), you should check out Dr. Mac, who is also a sponsor on this board. I've not purchased livestock from him (yet), but I've spoken with him several times and I've been repeatedly impressed with his knowledge and helpfulness. His anemones are all captive-raised clones, which is a big advantage. Maybe others on this board can give you their personal experience with his anemones, or you can check out the "Vendor" forum on this board.

"Clownfishes" by Joyce Wilkerson has compatibility charts for most species, and BTW is one of the best sources for information about anemones and clownfish. For a quick check, Marine Depot has a compatability chart on line which, although containing at least one omission (no clowns for H. malu), might be helpful.

[crgeltn]

Marine depot is a great place for compatibility charts. Percula clowns should host either but ocellaris I have only seen with carpet anemones. Just an FYI Marine depot has sebae anemones on sale! But, honestly I would go with the LFS if the animals are healthy and the prices do seem about average. You would limit the stress on them taking them straight home and not having to ship them during the winter months in your area. If you take into account shipping costs the LFS is usually cheaper and you have a place to bring them back to if there is a problem. Good luck!

[SeanT]

The Anemone Compatibility Chart (http://lib1.store.vip.sc5.yahoo.com/lib/marinedepotlive/Compatibility.GIF) is actually at www.marinedepotlive.com

[Butter]

SeantT,
Regarding your question: My tank was just started Jan of this year.

Everyone,
Thanks for the continued posts and info. Happy reefing!

[OrionN]

Butter,
Anemones are difficult to keep at best. They are also very long live in nature, practically immortal. Furthermore, Clownfish do not require anemone to do well in aquarium. The mortality of Host anemone is dismal in aquarium. Please search and learn about them first before you decided to buy them. For a first anemone, I think a Bubble Tip Anemone is best especially if you get a tank raised one. They are hardier than other species of host anemone, and will host Maroon clown (one of the most beautiful clown fish IMO). Ocellaris and Percula do not naturally live in BTA. in aquarium, they sometime do. I would not recommend buying anemone MO. They are very sensitive animal. Any injury to them often leads to their demise due to infection in a few days to weeks.
I would not buy an anemone unless you see and know that it is healthy for more than one week. In general, avoid white specimen as these anemone have lost their zooxanthellae and often will not live long (those "White Sebae" with blue or purple tip). Often many of these "Colored Sebae" are anemone that was keep in the dark to bleached them then was given a dye. These anemones are doomed and will waste away over several months.
So search and know your anemone before you buy him. Goodluck

Minh Nguyen

[Butter]

Thanks Minh Nguyen,
I am continually learning more and more about anemones and I thank you for your advice.
Pretty good article in the most recent (March 2003) article of Tropical Fish Hobbyist - "Ask the reefer" section by Rob Toonen.

Happy reefing and good luck to you -

[Butter]

My 75g is standard size, ~ 48"Longx18"Deepx22"Tall.
I have 80W actinic blue and 80W 6500K = 160W
Want BTA's in my tank, based on depth could this be enough lighting for them? I realize there are many factors to consider; this is just one of the most important that I would like some fellow BTA keeper's opinions on...thx in advance -

[wanareef]

I'm with Minh, read and find out more before the purchase. IMO your tank is still too new to house one of these, but that just MO. You don't have enough light for that size tank- increase to twice at least, or go to MH's.
BTW those $$ on the two anonomes are pretty good.
good luck

[OrionN]

Originally posted by Butter
75g AGA Reef Tank Born Jan 2003!
FOWLR, Eheim ProII canister
80W Actinic & 80W 10k
A work in progress...
><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·><((((º>
.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸¸><((((º>
Butter,
A canister filter is not a good idea in reef tank. Your nitrate will be high due to the canister filter and not suitable for anemone or coral yet (unless you do huge water changes or starve your fish). I would decrease the fish load (assume high in a FOWLR), remove the canister filter and add a sand bed. Once your nitrates get lower to less than 10 then you are on your way to have a reef tank. At that time, you should be able to add BTA. As it is, when you increase light, you will have algae bloom.
Minh Nguyen

[Butter]

My tank is new, light bioload, but nitrates have consistently been 0-5ppm no matter what. I have seen many suggest against canister but since I had it left over from a freshwater setup I am going to use it. This is also w/out any kind of skimmer at this time which I plan to use in the future as well. As for the substrate, I am going to stick with the coral (for now). Thanks for the inputs though-any more thoughts, pls share. Thx.

[OrionN]

Butter,
How light is the load of your tank. Can you let us know the number and size of your fish?
For a tank with a sand bed, you will consistently have nitrate measure at 0 using our test kits, even with a loaded, heavy feed tank. Nitrates is not a problem in my tank, rather it is phosphates and other trace nutrients.
However, what ever works for you.

[SeaMermaid]

Hi, I purch. my first BTA 1 year ago here in Grand Rapids Mi. for $30.00 . He was approx. 3-4". In Oct. 2002 I bought a BTA. in Lansing Mi. for $39.00 he was 3". Dec 2002 I bought a Rose BTA from Ecco Reef, Zeeland Mi. for $75.00.
I have a 7 GL.nano tank with a pair of Ocellaris Clowns that LOVE their BTA !!!!!!!!!!!! They sleep in him at night.

[Squidman]

I would get a BTA clone from a fellow reefer. There are plenty of people here on this board who would give/sell you a clone of their BTA. I think your best chance for success would be with a captive raised BTA anyway.

[Butter]

Hello everyone,
I am very conscious of the environment and fellow reefers who have BTA's would be something I am definitely interested in. If any of you out there reading this would PM me with any details I sure would appreciate it. If you are relatively close in proximity it might work best for transporting a BTA.

Thanks again.

[Butter]

...BTW, thanks for the tip.
I wasn't sure how to get the word out and to whom exactly about tank raised clone BTA's...hope to hear from all those interested.