OK coral people - I need you!!

[EricHugo]

I need you all to put on your thinking caps for me.

I pose the following situation:

You are about ready to go out on a reef and attache fragments to it. Some of these are standard staghorn like branches, maybe 6" or so long. Theyw ill go in about 20-30 feet of water, and can be in a somewhat protected area, but will still face the potential for storms.

The others will be like clubs - maybe 6" to a foot long and solid. These willhave to go in very shallow water where they will get hammered with waves.

Previous methods haveused epoxy, tying with wire, and screws and nails.

If you were going to approach this, and these corals had to survive until they physically attached themselves to the reef, and you wanted it to be fast, easy, and solid, what would you do? What are some innovative possibilities for accomplishing this?

Also, let's say you can also have the fragments already grown onto a substrate or base of your choosing, if this makes a difference.

And. remember, you want coral tissue in contact with the reef to promote fast attachment.

[Fredfish]

Can you put pegs on the frags and then push the pegs into holes on the reef?

Could use fibreglass rod for the pegs.

Fred

[golf nut]

Eric

As for the shallow water coral I would have frag attached to somthing like a piece of perforated slate, Seems to me that this would allow for coral migration through the holes in the slate to the floor beneath, and if the slate is large enough it should hold fast due to its surface area.

The other scenario is a little more difficult, if you can previously attach to some standard rock... lets say manmade liverock, with a shape to it which would make it easier to attach to the reef.

I have never been underwater, other than my morning shower, can you drill holes in the reef?

could you describe "clubs" a little clearer?

Paul

[rcmike]

What about using anchors that expand and screws like are used to attach things to concrete. You could use a waterproof drill(never seen one, but surely there has to be one) with a quick change drill bit/screwdriver things. The corals could be grown on something with a hole in it for the screw.

[Darrin]

umm i know this is damaging to the corals, but what about some kind of removable molly bolts, that once you drill it into the base, you can come back and remove them once the coral attaches...?

[ReefDiver]

Eric:

This is far fetched but remember those chinese finger cot like things that you would easily be able to place on your finger BUT then when you try to pull them off, they self tightened and you literally could not pull them off no matter how hard you tried? Well, if you design something out of a plastic type of mesh interwoven like the "chinese finger cot" then you could slip it over the base of the coral frag, pull it until its tight and attach the portion that is haging off (via epoxy) into a hole drilled in the rock until it was set. You could actually fill the inner plastic "tube" if you will, with epoxy which would ooze out and adhere to the rock. If this were done correctly, with practice in the lab first, it just may work? Although, the conditions on the reef will definitely have a lot to say about what can or can't be done of course! Just some thoughts which can be fine tuned I believe? Maybe a rubber type of material with some give and stretch might work better? The real problem is that the material can't be allowed to contract back down on itself which would allow the coral frag to pop loose! Whatever you do come up with, I would suggest keeping it simple and easy with minimal reef destruction, but I know that you are thinking about that already. I'll give this some more thought, as I am sure others will as well.

[EricHugo]

Excellent thoughts, guys - keep 'em coming.

It seems to me, and these are my two top choices so far, that you would want to attach substrate to which the coral has already grown first - that way, the attachment to the reef will not damage the coral, can be much more secure (if using metal, rock, or whatever) than the same process through coral skeleton).

I also think the peg in the hole idea could work well, but the peg would have to be cemented in and has the disadvantage of having drilling involved.

[Fredfish]

If you attach the frags to agrocrete then the agrocrete can be shaped for easy attachment to the substrait.

Care to tell us more about your project? Sounds like you are going to be re-populating a reef somewhere.

Fred.

[K. Lee]

If you used corals "pre-mounted" to a substrate, like rock, I think increased bulk and weight could be an obstacle in transportation, over raw "frags". Maybe this would not be an issue however, depending on how "unmounted" frags would be transported to the site. Maybe more careful handling of mounted frags, with their bulkiness would ensure more careful handling and increased success over unmounted frags. The time and energy getting the corals to mount twice might be another factor to consider.

As far as actual protections in thin water, you might try staking securely tires around frags, or some like device to protect the coral somewhat in shallow turbulent water. Light would be a factor depending on depth between the tides as to how much protection you could give the coral. I imagine in 4 -5 feet of water two standard auto tires ( or about 24") would be about right to break some impact of the waves, and not shade the coral too much.

[EricHugo]

From a post I made in the "sps" forum

I plan to establish culture facilities for Acropora palmata - the Caribbean elkhorn coral. This coral is under consideration for the Endangered Species Act and is critical for the survival of Caribbean reefs. I am writing a proposal to grow this coral. It has never had truly skilled Acropora growers working on it, and those who have worked on it claim it can't be grown - it undergoes Shut-down reaction (RTN) very very easily. But, its a shallow water, very high water motion coral. I think it can be grown without a problem, provided you do it right. I know what I think should be done. I want to hear the ideas of other "acropora studs." Please don't be offended by this, but if you are not familiar with this coral in the wild, how massive it is, and how its needs will obviously differ from typical aquarium Acropora species (it is in subgenus Isopora), please refrain from comments unless you truly feel them to be valuable. I need to work quickly and don't have time to sort through lots of novie-type advice.

Here is some background on the coral and the situation (from Bruckner 2002):

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Acropora palmata
Description: Elkhorn coral is a large branching coral up to 3 m in diameter with exceptionally thick and sturdy branches. This species was formerly the dominant species on shallow, exposed reefs throughout the Caribbean and in the Florida Reef Tract, forming extensive, densely aggregated, monospecific thickets
(stands) that develop during periods between storms (Adey and Burke, 1976; Woodley, 1992). The success this species has achieved is a result of its fast rate of growth, rapid wound healing by injured adults, high rate of survival of fragments, and ability of broken branches to cement to the substratum and continue growing (Gladfelter et al., 1978; Bak and Criens, 1981, Highsmith, 1982). Because of the high survivorship of fragmented branches, A. palmata was rapidly reestablished after a major disturbance, and colonies spread into neighboring areas not previously occupied by A. palmata, including sandy habitats not
suitable for settlement by sexually-produced larvae (Lirman and Fong, 1997). In sheltered areas, and on reefs where storm disturbances are low, this species occurs as isolated colonies, primarily due to reduced
likelihood of fragmentation, and the low recruitment success of sexually-produced larvae (Dustan, 1977;
Rylaarsdam, 1983; Rosesmyth, 1984).
Preferred habitat: Elkhorn coral is found between low water level and 5-6 m depth, in wave-exposed
and high surge reef zones (Adey and Burke, 1976); isolated colonies can be found t depths of 18 m,
primarily in areas with low rates of sedimentation and high current. This is an environmentally sensitive
species that requires clear, high saline, well circulated water with mean temperatures of 25-29oC (Jaap et
al., 1989). A. palmata is intolerant of sedimentation; this species is not foun in areas with considerable
runoff, river discharge or land erosion (Lewis, 1984), and populations will disappear from coral reefs
exposed to sudden changes in temperature, salinity or water quality (Davis, 1982; Dustan and Halas,
1987).
Importance: Acropora palmata is a major reef-building species and the dominant coral on the shallow
fore reef in the “palmata zone�. Few other species coexist in this environment, due to the extreme
fluctuation of environmental conditions. Dense thickets of elkhorn coral reduce incoming wave energy,
offering critical protection to coastlines. Loss of this species may result in increased coastal erosion and
may negatively affect shorelines with mangrove and grass bed habitats which rely on calm water provided
by these effective coral barriers. Of the 60+ species of coral in the Caribbean, only three dominate present
day coral reefs and the Pleistocene geological record: A. palmata, A. cervicornis and the Montastraea
annularis “complex� (Jackson, 1992). A. palmata colonies contribute to the reef framework, and coral
thickets account for some of the greatest measured reef growth rates (Goreau, 1959). Gladfelter (1982)
estimated a rate of reef accretion by this species of 10.3 kg CaCO3/m2/yr; over 1000 years, shallow
windward A. palmata reefs have grown upward close to 15 meters, keeping pace with rising sea level
(Adey, 1975). This species also produces islands; boulder ramparts and coral cayes in exposed locations
in the Caribbean islands are composed primarily of A. palmata skeletons (Williams et al., 1999). High
structural complexity produced by the interdigitated branches of A. palmata colonies provide essential fish
habitat; A. palmata thickets often contain a higher diversity of fish species than in comparable areas
(Gladfelter and Gladfelter, 1978).
180
Species distribution: A. palmata is found on reefs in southern Florida and the Bahamas, and throughout
the Caribbean, including the Antilles, the West Indies, Central and South America, including Mexico, Belize,
Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama and Columbia, and. Isolated populations occur in the southern
portion of the Gulf of Mexico, near Veracruz, Mexico; the northern limit in 1992 was the Tuxpan Reef
System, approx 29 N latitude (Jordan-Dahlgreen, 1992). A. palmata was one of the dominant reefbuilders
Barbados, but has virtually disappeared (Lewis, 1984). The southern limit is Venezuela (Los
Roques) and the northeastern tip of Tobago. Elkhorn coral does not occur in Bermuda, the northern Gulf of
Mexico, or the east coast of South America (Guyana, Surinam or Brazil). Acropora palmata prefers
moderately high energy wave environments found along the windward sides of islands and banks generally
always found within 5 m of sea level. Depending on the degree of wave energy, A. palmata colonies may
grow either in the shallow fore reef, back reef or patch reef environments, however it usually forms either
continuous or discontinuous crests. Acropora cervicornis prefers moderate-to-low energy environments
and occurs in depths down to 20 m. It can occur in patch reef, back reef, reef crest, and fore reef habitats.
Historically, populations of A. palmata and A. cervicornis populations occur throughout the greater
Caribbean and have been documented as far back as the Pliocene. Northern-most populations occur in
Florida off Broward County and the northern Bahamas region, and southern-most populations occur near
Trinidad & Tobago, Venezuela and Columbia.
U.S. distribution: A. palmata coral occurs in Biscayne National Park, on the Florida Keys Reef Tract, off
Puerto Rico and offshore islands, and on fringing reefs around the U.S. Virgin Islands. This species is absent
from Flower Garden Banks, Florida Middle Grounds and Southeast Florida. The northern limit on the east
coast of Florida is in the Biscayne National Park (Triumph Reef 25 29' N).
Growth: Branches increase in linear dimensions by 5-10 cm/year, depending on geographical location,
temperature, horizontal position on the reef, depth, and environmental conditions. The greatest rate of
growth occurs on the shallow fore reef during summer and early fall; reduced growth is reported during cold
water periods, and in back reef environments (Gladfelter et al., 1978).
Life history adaptations: Acropora palmata has a high investment into persistence of adult colonies with
modifications in growth patterns in response to wave stress and light intensity. Colonies in deep water have
broad and flattened branches which are very fragile. On wave-exposed, shallow reefs, branches are fewer
in number; branches become thicker, shorter and more cylindrical and are oriented at close to a 45 angle,
pointing into incoming currents and waves. In the back reef, colonies have broad, flattened branch tips,
although branches are thicker in cross section when compared to deep-water colonies (Gladfelter, 1982).
The skeleton is less porous and stronger than most massive corals, and porosity is lower towards the base
and higher in branch tips (Chamberlain, 1978). Of all Caribbean corals, A. palmata exhibits the most
rapid and efficient ability to regenerate tissue and skeleton over injuries (Bak, 1983), allowing this species to
recover quickly from storm damage. A palmata is low on the aggressive hierarchy, experiencing tissue
destruction if it contacts slow-growing massive corals (Lang, 1973). Acropora palmata outcompetes
massive corals by growing above them, thereby reducing light penetration and water circulation water
(Shinn, 1972).
Reproduction: Individual colonies of A. palmata produce both eggs and sperm which are broadcast into
the water column for external fertilization. Egg and sperm bundles are positively buoyant, floating to surface
and remaining viable for up to 8 hours after release. This species spawns 4-5 days after the full moon in
August and/or in September. Although colonies have a high investment in gamete production, few larvae
survive and sexual recruits are rare (Dustan, 1977; Bak and Engel, 1979; Rylaarsdam, 1983). Unlike
o
o
181
Indo-Pacific acroporids, the main mode of propagation of A. palmata is by colony fragmentation, enabling
this species to colonize areas unsuitable for sexually produced larvae, and allowing rapid recovery following
minor hurricanes and tropical storms.
Threats: The major sources of mortality to A. palmata responsible for the virtual elimination of this coral
from the Caribbean over the past two decades has been white-band disease (Gladfelter, 1991). Other
causes of mortality include natural factors such as breakage by hurricanes and tropical storms, predation by
invertebrates and fish, hyper-and hypothermic stress, and bleaching episodes. Anthropogenic causes of
mortality include nutrient loading and overgrowth by macroalgae, sedimentation and reduced water clarity,
and physical damage from boat groundings and anchors. Although A. palmata has adaptations allowing it to
inhabit shallow, high energy reefs, it is susceptible to breakage from physical forces associated with storms
and hurricanes. Fragmentation was thought to be adaptive, with a high survivorship of hurricane-generated
fragments and a rapid recovery of affected zones (Glynn et al., 1964; Highsmith, 1982). While storms may
enhance the spread of A. palmata populations, recent observations indicate that initial mortality to colonies
and fragments may be quite high, injured colonies and fragments exhibit reduced growth rates and declines
in reproductive output, and damaged populations are susceptible to subsequent disturbances (Bruckner,
unpubl. Data; Lirman, 1998). In Puerto Rico, populations damaged by storms have continued to decline,
with a high incidence (40-60%) of fragment mortality within the first 90 days (Bruckner and Bruckner,
unpubl. Data). Woodley (1992) suggested that the large monospecific stands of A. palmata described as a
characteristic feature of Caribbean reefs (Goreau, 1959; Adey and Burke, 1976) may have developed only
because of an unusually long interval (approximately 35 years in Jamaica) between major hurricanes.
Outbreaks of coral disease were first observed among A. palmata populations in St. Croix in the mid
1970s and disease epizootics have spread throughout the Caribbean over the past two decades. Up to
95% of the A. palmata disappeared over a ten year period from Tague Bay, St Croix as a result of whiteband
disease (WBD) and storm damage (Gladfelter, 1991). Goenaga reported 20-33 % of A. palmata
affected with WBD on one reef near La Parguera PR in the early 1980s (Davis et al., 1986); disease
epizootics were also reported in Florida (Jaap, 1984). A. palmata populations in Puerto Rico and
elsewhere in the Caribbean continue to be afflicted by WBD (Bythell, 1993; Bruckner et al., 1997;
Aronson and Precht, 1998; Williams et al., 1999). In addition to WBD, new diseases have emerged on A.
palmata, including white pox (Williams, 1996) and patchy necrosis (Bruckner and Bruckner, 1997b).
Tumors or calicoblastic neoplasms (raised, whitened, abnormal lumps on colony surfaces with distorted
polipary structures) were first noted by Squires (1965) and their affect on growth and regeneration was
examined in Curacao (Bak, 1983). Calicoblastic neoplasms were reported from Carysfort Reef in Florida
in 1975 and Grecian Rocks, Florida in 1982, and they are known to occur sporadically, at low levels
throughout the Caribbean (Peters et al., 1986). Neoplasms are thought to reduce the reproductive potential
of coral, and they are susceptible to ulceration and invasion by filamentous algae; affected areas lack
mucous secretory cells and are very porous, increasing vulnerability to sedimentation and wave stress
(Peters et al., 1986).
Coral-eating predators including the fireworm, Hermodice carunculata and the corallivorous gastropod,
Coralliophila abbreviata appear to have become more prevalent and cause more damage to A. palmata
populations in Puerto Rico and the Florida Keys possibly as a result of overfishing of their predators, the
octopus and spiny lobster (Bruckner et al., 1997b; Szmant, 1997), and possibly because their host
populations have been greatly reduced, effectively concentrating predators (Knowlton et al., 1990).
Territorial damselfish (Stegastes planifrons) bite repeatedly at the same location on A. palmata branches
creating conspicuous lesions which are colonized by algae. Regeneration of these lesions is continually
interrupted. As a result, the surrounding polyps secrete a wall of tissue and skeleton around the lesion,
which extends vertically upward, resembling a chimney; this growth encloses the tufts of algae. Stoplight
parrotfish (Sparisoma viride) also bite at elkhorn coral branches, removing tissue and underlying skeleton
(Bruckner and Bruckner, 1998).
Death to large stands of A. palmata by hypothermia has been significant in the Dry Tortugas (Jaap and
Sargent, 1993) and areas along the Florida Reef Tract with direct connections to the Florida Bay.
A. palmata is vulnerable to sedimentation associated with increased runoff and river discharge, especially
in areas with minimal wave action. Rogers (1983) found that even low doses of sediment accumulate on the
flattened branch surfaces, resulting in rapid tissue necrosis; in addition, injuries regenerate more slowly at
elevated sedimentation levels (Meesters and Bak, 1995). In areas with heavy commercial boat traffic and
recreational use, A. palmata thickets are vulnerable to boat groundings and anchor damage, primarily
because these corals are restricted to shallow water (Dustan and Halas, 1987).

[tld]

Hey Eric,
I replied to this in another forum, but obviously this is the place for the discussion. I suggested interlocking plates of some sort. I'm still concerned about the anchoring of the bottom part. If you are doing this in the Florida Keys, then you could use quarry limestone boulders and drill cores in the boulders, grow the frags on the cores and put them back together ( a larger version of the GARF plugs). While the frags are growing out, divers would have time to get the boulders in position and secured.

A couple of other thoughts... acclimation to currents and wave action - would a 6" home-grown frag be more brittle than a 6" inch reef grown frag because the home-grown variety doesn't have anywhere near the wave-action of the reef? Is there a reason the ones going in shallow water and getting hammered with waves need to be 6-12"? I would think smaller frags would stand less chance of being snapped off due to violent wave action.

Finally, how are you going to keep those pesky parrotfish and damselfish away?

Teresa
PS - If you need any divers, let me know :D I haven't been in a year or two, but I was certified in '86 and I've done science diving before so I know how much work it is.

[ReefDiver]

Eric:

How long does it take for A. palmata to attach itself to the reef substrate, or to any substrate for that matter? Are we talking weeks or months? Exactly how does this attachment occur physically?

Does the frag piece have to be sticking straight out of the rock/substrate? Or can it be laid on it's side right up against the rock/substrate? This would make it a lot easier to attach, would it not? I am only asking this because I imagine that when a piece breaks off of the colony and falls, it can regrow by attaching somewhere else on the reef and is obviously in an altered position. Is this correct?

As an example, if a bone is fractured, it can grow back if the ends are just made to contact one another and does not really have to be aligned end to end. Although for esthetic reasons, that's the way it is always done.

On another note, at a growth rate on only 2 to 5 inches per year, it will take a really long period of time for this coral to colonize even a small section of the reef!!

[Gary Majchrzak]

It seems to me that A. palmata in particular would be a prime candidate for horizontal 'mounting' of the frags. This would promote rapid massive encrusting around the base. Thorite {polymer- modifed patching mortar} might possibly be used for large scale 'glue-downs'. Good luck with the project.

[EricHugo]

tld: good thoughts. On the fragment brittleness - the facility I am proposing will be able to emulate natural wave stress or darn close. The skeletons will not be brittle for that reason - this is not "home-grown" by a long shot. Also, damsels and parrots will be a risk as they are with any coral. However, I'd like to think there's a way to protect them from Coralliophila and Hermodice - and possibly chicken wire screens for fishes. I would imagine the coral will grow right through chicken wire over time and will then be big enough to hold its own.

Steve:

we're talking months. Yes, they willbe laid down andnot planted like a flower, and yes 2-5 inches seems slow but it is among the fastest growing corals in the wild. Getting five inches a year out of something that can be as wide as a man's thigh or chest is pretty impressive.

Gary:

what is polymer modified thorite like to work with underwater? Cement is a mess underwater.

[Gary Majchrzak]

I've never worked with Thorite totally under water. I have worked with it above the water and quickly submerged it- it DOES cure underwater. I believe it might work in this project. It basically cures as hard as cement.The Thoro company that manufactures Thorite is located in southern Florida- Miami, I believe.

[JerryReef]

I am more partial to using metal/steel for such a project, as metal unlike plastic will disintegrate with time. Additionally, metal has the ability to shaped and act as anchor itself, with the appropriate gauge and necessary tinsel strength.

I would look to products like chain-link fence, easy to manipulate and shape to the contours of its host, aka reef, rocks, etc. The strips will be laid across the reef and anchored at strategic positions; just prior to relocating the cultivated corals.

The targeted Corals will be attached to a similar material as the chain-link fence, wire mesh, or chicken wire. Such a material will be easily bent to anchor to the chain-link fence strips laid out over the reef/rock structure.

The chain-link fence and wire mesh will eventually rust and dissolve, voilÃ* au naturel, a freshly grown coral orchard.

:D G

[ReefDiver]

Gerry:

I like it! Instead of focusing on individual coral frags to anchor, this suggestion makes the most sense as you can cover a large area and then it will be very easy to attach the individual coral frags!

Sounds like a plan to me!

What do you think Eric??

BTW, the "wire mesh" could possibly be made with a more rapid type of biodegradable structure which may not even have to be "metal".

[billsreef]

Hi Eric,

I've done a bit of diving in the Carribean and am familiar with Elkhorn and it's typically growing enviroment. One thought that runs though my mind is to grow several small frags to a large man made boulder that could be dropped in place, either one large and heavy enough that it's mere size and weight would suffice in all but the worst weather or a smaller rock that could be anchored to the hard pan the same way boat moorings are. Steel bolts would quickly rust and swell holding a small boulder or flat plate like boulder in place. With all the algae, sponges and other growths typical of the surfaces you would be mounting the corals too I would think epoxies and cement type holdfasts would be tricky at best.

Anyhow that's my ramblings after a long day at the LFS, hope they make some sense ;)

[Darrin]

actually... i really like the chain link fence idea, but modify it to do chicken wire or even smaller 1/2 x 1/2 opening hardware cloth..

I don't know what it is made out of, but it does not rust fast. Although i have not used it for the reasons we are talking about... i use it for my pet birds.. so salt water might be as corrosive as you would need it to eventually be...

it comes in several widths, but what i use is 4 ft x 100 ft, and costs around $125.00

If you hid lots of small frags beneath it, and then just put big rocks all around the circumfrence of the wire, the frags should eventually grow throught the wire... might be able to tie them on with zip ties or something to hold them tight.

[piercho]

Hi Eric,

I'll make a big assumption that the people doing this will be diving on surface supply (have a compressor) instead of tanks and you all can afford or borrow pnuematic diving tools.

Pin the fragments under fence wire using drywall/concrete anchors to pull down the wire. Throw the frags on their sides on the substrate, spread a section of fence over them, and pin down the wire with the anchors as needed. I'd try the two-piece metal drywall screws to pin them. It's a two-man op: One guy bores the holes in the limestone, the second guy runs in the anchors. Plus, handling the sections of fence wire will take two bodies.

The drywall anchors I have in mind are Cobra WallDriller brand. The ones I have in hand have nylon bodies to screw into the drywall but I'm certain that I've seen them with metal bodies, too. Basically, a huge course screw is run into a large hole in the drywall (or, in your case, soft limestone). The center of this big screw has threading to accept a smaller screw. The small screw is what will pull the wire down into the anchor screw. Add a really large washer to aid in catching the fence wire and I think you might be in business.

This should work if the substrate is reasonably flat. If the wire fence is really flexible, like chicken wire, you may be able to conform it to some fairly uneven surfaces.

I see a few advantages to this. 1st, no messing with mounting frags. 2nd, you've got solid compression of the frage to the substrate. 3rd, a lot of frags can be pinned in a group and the group should be easy to relocate visually afterwards. 4rth, all the metal mounting hardware should dissolve in time.

A disadvantage I see in this that hydrodynamic drag could lift a whole section in rough water. The bare fence would be OK, but wouldn't algaes grow onto the wire quickly, making it's drag pretty high?

Anyway, you could bench test this with a substrate similar to what you'd encounter where you'll be planting. I'd think that dead coral would have a pretty soft consistancy, so you could drill the pilot hole and sink the outer screw OK. Otherwise, there are anchors suitable for concrete.

[Martyn]

A very interesting project Eric.

From, a search I looked at this.
High performance styrene free epoxyacrylate based fixing compound is a 2 component advanced epoxyacrylate fixing & anchoring mortar. Supplied in a self mixing cartridge.
Primary uses
Heavy duty & critical anchoring such as rebars & threaded anchor rods/bolts in rock & concrete
Used in wet environment, at low to very low temperatures & wherever solvents or styrene are unacceptable
Used in high temperature applications
Anchoring with sleeves in hollow brick or concrete

http://www.mbt-middle-east.com/datasheet/html/repair/conc1450.html

But have no idea if this would be suitable And did not note if it is workable and cures while in water ? and it involves drilling holes.

Martyn.

[billsreef]

The chicken wire idea is intersting. I see one problem, keeping the frags from blowing around in the waves and current while fastening the mesh. Typical elkhorn environment is the exposed shallow reefs, typically on the windward side of the islands. Lots of waves and strong current. Interesting areas to snorkle in (usually not enough water to bother with SCUBA), but one often needs to be carefull not to get mashed into the rocks and the urchins by the waves :D

[EricHugo]

Now we are getting somewhere. I also think the chicken wire is a good idea, and it also has the benefit of excluding parrrotfish and damselfish. It would defintiely grow through the wire and the remainder of the wire would definitely rust out..

The anchors and the special adhesves are both very good ideas for trials and I think should be used with notes taken later as to their relative success.

Yes, air tools are possible.

I am sure this would be using scuba and not a compressor, though. And Bill, boy can I relate. While we were monitoring a restoration site, we had to take measurements of growth, any lesions, etc. Just trying to get a ruler and measure a colony and write down what it was usually entailed several slams and bashes into rocks and corals and urchins. I was so beat up after those dives my whole body hurt. Snorkeling elkhorn is great, diving it is a nightmare.

[jameso]

Eric,

Drop me a line or a PM. I'm assuming this is what you left me a message about. I'd love to help!

James

[Adam]

Eric and all,

I like the chicken wire idea for it's security, etc., but I see two downsides.

First, large pieces of this stuff can be difficult to work with on land. It is springy, has sharp edges, and can't be folded to a small size easily.

Second, what about the toxicity of the Zinc coating? Has anyone tested this to see if it is "coral safe".

I know plastic webbing is dangerous, but perhaps cotton or another material (silk, gut, polyglactone ?) would hold up long enough to allow the frags to attach, but break down so as to not be an environmental hazard.

If you can use air tools, my first choice would be to grow out the frags on the style of concrete plug that Walt Smith uses. It is a lumpy 1/2 raquet ball size plug with a long slender tail on it.

You could drill a hole slightly larger than the tail into the substate. If you modified the Plug to be more "P" shaped, you could drive a nail or metal wedge along side the tail for extra security.

HTH

Adam

[piercho]

Getting your anchor holes drilled and putting in the anchors would be difficult, IMO, without air tools. Maybe there is some kind of anchor you could pound in with a 5 LB hammer if the substrate is soft enough. Like the old, permanent rock-climbing anchors you'd bang into cracks. Your bottle time will be real short doing that kind of labor on SCUBA, though.

[tld]

I think drilling, hammering, placing screens - any sort of tedious manipulation in a surging, wave crashing environment is going to wear out a bunch of divers. -will probably be a little easier at 20-30 ft depth, but in the 5-15 ft range it's going to be very difficult. Something that's more "plug and play" might be better for the very shallow water.

Teresa