Sump/Refugium help

[frogfone]

We are in the planning stages of upgrading from our 40g reef to a 110g miracle mud set up. (With most of our conventional equipment in the loop, just incase) I have done as much research as my brain can stand and have come up with a design for my hybrid sump/refugium.

Has anyone any comments...

Also, a few quick questions

1. Will a 1" stockman drain and 3/4" return be enough for this system (Pump is rated at 600gph) ?

2. What size holes are required for the bulkheads?

3. Will the ball valves restrict the flow in the open position?

4. How do you control the water levels in the various chambers in the sump? How do you decide where to place the baffles?

Thanks:)

[Thirst4Knowledge]

We are in the planning stages of upgrading from our 40g reef to a 110g miracle mud set up. (With most of our conventional equipment in the loop, just incase) I have done as much research as my brain can stand and have come up with a design for my hybrid sump/refugium.

Has anyone any comments...

I was just wondering why you chose MM over DSB. I hate bio balls un natural and the mm is so expensive and you have to change 1/2 every two years. Not trying to bash idea just wondering what you found in the research i would love some info on the MM if you have it.

Also, a few quick questions

1. Will a 1" stockman drain and 3/4" return be enough for this system (Pump is rated at 600gph) ?

At how many feet of hose 4 or five feet will change that alot. I have 1" on my overflow and 3/4" teflon reinforced on my 60 gallon return and the 2100 rio is 700 at 0ft and 250 at 5ft of tube which is what i am using on the refugium.

2. What size holes are required for the bulkheads? I think that depends on the bulk head your going to have a pro drill it right. The guys from your local glass place should know i don't think they are all the same size. I could be wrong on that one. Were are you going to need bulkheads?

3. Will the ball valves restrict the flow in the open position?

Not enough to worry about if any very slight. Are you going to slow the water down enough for uv sterilizer?

4. How do you control the water levels in the various chambers in the sump? How do you decide where to place the baffles?

Everything that is before the last wall were the pumps are is going to be the same height of water as long is there is a way for the water to get thru all the way if there is a restriction then you could change this balance. The last wall or baffle were the water pours into the pump chamber will determine the height of the water from the overflow and on. Both side of the MM chamber should be the same height and tall for the macro algae growth but not so tall you will overflow with a power outage. Naturally the pump is going to pushing out faster than its coming in so this makes the water flow across. Make the heater in the first chamber or right before the MM because if the syphon breaks or something clogs and you run the pump dry the heater will be in water and not break and fry everything. Also make the chamber were the pumps are large you will need to get down and work on them and also if you have a large pump in a small chamber and a pickup for the calcium reator you will need alot of water in there or you will be putting water in there everyday to keep it from blowing bubbles out the returns due to evaporation. I made mine out of a 29 gallon on a 60 cut the lexan to size and set everything in there to make it fit good before i siliconed. You need to think about how your going to mount the light if you have room in the stand above the tank. I had to make a relocation kit for my metal halide ballast. i would say bigger is better on the tank size for the refugium/mm my friend did a 20 on a 75 gallon and wishes it was bigger. I like mine and it has a huge dsb. Hope i helped and if i need to clarify anything i will just ask

Good luck

:)

[frogfone]

Hi Thirst

I agree online sources of info about MM are vague and seem like propoganda more than info. I have read articles in a couple of UK mags on MM that have been much more informative however.

Practical fishkeeping started to mention MM about two years ago when Michael Palletta did a talk on it at reefcon 2000 (or 2001?)

Marine world is currently running a series on setting up a MM tank from scratch.

Bioballs are just for mechanical filtration in MM tanks as they are completey submerged.

As i'm UK based MM is not actually going to cost that much more as aragonite is £20 a bag and MM is £50 and you need less mud than sand.

1. The sump is going to be directly below the main tank and the return distance is going to be about 4' I will be using and eheim 1260 pump for the return which is rated at 2280 lph and a max of 12' head.


2. tank is going to be acrylic and will come direct from the manufacturer drilled. i'm hoping they will know what size holes to drill for a 1" and 3/4" bulkhead. will have a weir and bottom drains.


3. I am going to take the UV out of the design and just run it from a cannister feed from the main tank for the first couple of months while the occupants are settling in.


4. Thanks for the excellent info on the sump it has helped alot. the lights will be T5 so mounting should be simple, the sump will be 40gals for a 110gals main. I was planning to draw the calcium reactor from the refugium (or before it) and return it into the pump chamber to avoid pH spiking the algae.

Once again thanks for the reply. :confused:

[Addicted Reefer]

frogfone,

Is there something you were :confused: about or was that a mistake and it was supposed to be:) at the bottom of your reply just wondering. I love the more natural filtraion like MM or DSB at least its not a :uzi: wetdry

[frogfone]

sorry the :confused: should have been at the top of the page and the :) at the bottom. once I actually get the tank i'll be:D

[slipknottin]

Originally posted by frogfone


1. Will a 1" stockman drain and 3/4" return be enough for this system (Pump is rated at 600gph) ?
Yes it will be fine.

2. What size holes are required for the bulkheads? a 1 1/2" hole for a 3/4" bulkhead, and a 1 3/4" hole for a 1" bulkhead.

3. Will the ball valves restrict the flow in the open position? All fittings will reduce flow. However, it will still flow well over 600 GPH.

4. How do you control the water levels in the various chambers in the sump? How do you decide where to place the baffles?

Thanks:)

Water takes the path of least resistance. You need one part to be high up, then flow downwards into the various sections of the sump.



Problems I see with your setup. The bioballs before the refugium are fine, but the ones after are going to cause problems. You want the flow out of the refugium to be as free from obstacles as possible so pods and other plankton can flow into the pump and back into the display tank.


MM is great for one reason. Its an iron rich substrate. It has no other special features. Mixing a fine sand with some laterlite (sold for planted aquariums) will provide the exact same benefit with less than a quater of the price.

[frogfone]

Thanks for the info slipknottin, straight answers was what I was looking for...

I'm really not set on this design and was looking for constructive criticism so that's great.

I have seen diagrams of the ecosystem refugiums advocated by Leng Sy and these all have the bioballs before and after the refugium compartment. As far as I'm led to believe they are there simply to stop the calupera fouling the pump. Personally I reckon the guy has shares in bioballs!!!

Would a coarse sponge do the same job? (Much cheaper and easier to remove for cleaning I would think)

[Thirst4Knowledge]

frogfone,

Thanks for the info slipknottin, straight answers was what I was looking for...

Sorry i was trying to pass on what i learned from my own experience. Not trying to act smart just my opinion the best way i could explain it. My bad if i am over complicating. I will leave the answers to the more experienced slipknottin

[slipknottin]

Thirst4Knowledge- I think you answered them all correctly. Your right, bioballs arent always a good idea for reef tanks, and bulkheads do come in many different sizes.

frogfone- I still dont think you need any sponge or bioballs after your refugium. A couple baffles will stop any algae from getting to the pump. The only reason for the bioballs before the refuge is to trab debris, and let it break down and feed the algaes. There is really no point to the bioballs after it.