I have a cyano problem

[cougarguy]

I have recently started having a cyano problem and I know it is due to using tap water.

I am moving in the next 30 days or so and was wondering if there was anything I can do short term to get rid of it as I am going to have a rodi at the house we are buying.

I have heard of Chemiclean red slime remover and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it or anyother reef/shark safe method of getting rid of it.

[TOURKID]

well the good news is when you move you'll be replaceing alot of water.. probley your biggest water change ever at say.. 50-60% that should really help. along with clean (new?) sand that should really almost solve your problem (all new water will be r/o d/i?)

I used phossponge from kent. gotta remove it within 24 hrs. 'chemiclean' doesent sound good

[cl2ysta1]

Cyanobacteria thrive in low circulation, poorly aerated conditions. Hence the call for vigorous water movement and near-saturation levels of dissolved oxygen. Providing powerheads, small submersible pumps, mechanical aerators and directing discharges from outside filters and pumping mechanisms are the best way to accomplish optimized circulation and aeration. Direct these devices to eliminate stagnant areas.

BGA Control

Despite their best plans and actions aquarists frequently run into some Cyanobacteria problems, especially when their systems are going through initial cycling and settling in. There are a few appropriate responses to these situations, and one that is often employed that you should (and will) be advised against. Here are the suggested controls.

Elbow Grease:

Gingerly wiping the slimy colonies from the tanks sides, regularly removing the mass of the BGA from the gravel and décor surfaces goes a long way to removing the BGA and their ill-effects.

This batch might be gravel-vacuumed away. Yes, it's not the "right" color, but this is assuredly Cyano/BGA


Siphoning

The bulk of the colonies out. Not only does this work directly in removing the BGA, but something in the way of chemical self-destruction is often triggered in removing the Cyanobacteria in this way. A small diameter rigid tube attached to a siphon hose works wonders.

Less Food:

Being careful to make especially major nutrients like nitrates and phosphates limited is important. Be on your guard against overstocking and overfeeding fishes and invertebrates. Also, very importantly, be wary of putting in too much in the way of chemical supplements and to a lesser extent, chemical food from your tapwater and synthetic salt mix.

Enhanced Filtration:

Better foam fractionators utilizing ozone, preserving and increasing RedOx potential will increase desirable photosynthetic life and decrease unwanted algal forms growth. Practical chemical filtration can be of service in the pre-emptive removal of chemical foods.

Biological Controls:

Unfortunately, other than some possible hermit crab species, there are no "clean up" crews, other animals to suggest that will regularly eat Cyanobacteria species on an assured basis. Instead, biological controls take the form of competing forms. Using macro-algae, live rock, and photosynthetic cnidarians (some of the gorgonians, corals, anemones) to utilize available light and nutrients prevents BGA proliferation directly. These organisms production of certain chemicals further combats BGA spread


taken from here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm