Site to explain how to...

[awestruck]

I have been reefing for 3.5 years but using a very simple system. I am upgrading and will be using a more complicated set up. Where can I go to learn more about how complex systems operate? Thank you. ;0

[PrivateJoker64]

Right here...RC!
What specifically do you want to know?
One of us would be happy to answer.

[awestruck]

Oh gosh, ok then, but please don't roll your eyes.

1. My new 120 has dual "mega" overflows. Apparently this can be made into a closed loop or not; not sure what this means.

2. How do you set up your tank so you don't have to use a bunch of powerheads, or do you always have to? Right now I have 5 in my 58, plus the spray bar from the canister filter, and the movement from the skimmer.

3. My sump (58g.) and fuge (60g.) will be in the basement. Is the pump that pushes the water from these two also moving water in the sump and fuge, or do you put a powerhead in the fuge just for water movement?

4. I have 2 x 250w. Aquamedic MH pendants. How high above the water should these be?

5. I want to get an RO/DI machine. I hear people stating that they forgot to turn it off and then get a flood. So, do you just "click" it on when you want filtered water, take the water you need from the faucet, and then click it off?

6. I have a calcium reactor and don't even have a clue...

7. I have a phosban reactor and don't even have a clue...

8. If I put poles in the basement for floor support, can the tank be put corner-to-corner? My house is about 55 years old.

The man and his wife who I bought this from live 4.5 hours from me. They are awesome and said I could email with questions anytime, but for goodness sake, I would be BOMBARDING them with questions. I thought I had found someone who would come and help me set this up, but now I'm not sure. I won't do this alone, too many chances for a disaster. I am going to find someone who will help me, but I need to understand this equipment and how it works--at least somewhat to begin.

I am so excited to set up my 120g. but I am really nervous. Any help would be wonderful! :)

[techreef]

You are in the right place now, awestruck! and seriously, all throughout your setup procedures, check all "outside" advice (non-RC) here on the forum before you implement it. You'll get lots more points of view, and some potential bad advice can/will be avoided.

I'll answer what I can from your list...

1) What the tank's previous owners are probably referring to is that you would use one of the overflows for your drain down to your sump/fuge system, while the second overflow is simply used to feed a second pump which is only being used to move water. This second pump would suck water down the outflow pipe in the 2nd overflow, and then blow the water back into your display tank via the inflow pipe of the 2nd overflow. Does that make sense? While this setup works fine, if you plan on keeping high-flow animals like SPS corals in your display, you may need additional water flow. I say this because the drain pipe of the 2nd overflow can only drain so much water per/minute, and if you want a pump that jams out more GPH than the drain can provide, you've got a problem. That being said, I have an "over-the-top" closed loop (CL) system that uses a Sequence pump and a homemade PVC manifold that sits on top of my tank's frame, with 9 different nozzles pointing down into the tank. They aren't hard to build, and other than the pump cost, they're cheap. If this option interests you, ask away!

2) By using CL(s). Ex., my display tank has no equipment in it. No powerheads, no heaters, etc. It has an intake pipe for my CL system, which has become covered in coraline algae and blends into my rockwork. Since my CL output comes from the nozzles pointing into the tank from above, I don't have any equipment stuck to the walls of my display tank.

3) If you want to stock chaetomorpha macroalgae in your sump or fuge, you may want to add a powerhead to the tank w/ the chaeto in it, as it seems that chaeto likes to be continuously "tumbling" in the water current. Otherwise in my experience it just dissintegrates a slow death. But all of your water movement can come from the water draining into the sump/fuge from your display and being pumped back up to the display via your return pump.

4) sorry, don't know.

5) Yes, you've got it right. You can set up your RODI filter w/ an auto on/off switch system that activates the filter when needed, but in this respect I feel that simpler is better, aka less prone to break and make a mess. BUT, I have flooded my kitchen's tile floor 3 times because I forgot to turn off my RODI filter while filling a 5G bucket w/ FW. :)

6) sorry

7) definitely check these out. I just got one and love it! Pretty easy to set up and maintain, and it really, really helps combate cyanobacteria growth. My phosphate reactor has been a life-saver.

8) I would think yes, the support poles would suffice, but you sure don't want to mess up that calculation. Get more/professional opinions, and post pics if you want more precise advise.

Good luck!!!

-Steve

[burton14e7]

4 - Try about 10-12 inches.
6 - I would see if you can find the manual or post the model and people should be able to give some instructions...need test kits to monitor.

[nauticac4]

1. Dunno
2. I use a closed loop on my 120. This takes water from 2 bulkheads drilled into the back of the display and uses a high flow pump (mine is 3600GPH) and forces the water through multiple ports. A common setup is an Oceans Motions 4 Way and a Reeflo Dart pump. Look at some of the Tank of the Months for ideas.
3. Have no experience with one in a basement but my fuge ans sump only have the flow from the returns and the skimmer.
4. Anywhere from 6-12 inches most say around 8 which is where mine are. The closer you get the more heat you transfer to the water. Heat = problems and possibly needing a chiller.
5. A 75GPD Ro/Di setup makes 3 or so gallons an hour. So making the water for a 15 gallon change takes 5 hours. Many people use a large container (Brute Trashcan) and have a float valve that cuts the system off. Every couple of days I turn the RO/Di on when I get home and turn it off when I got to bed, So i always have 20-30 gallons of water for an emergency.
6. Calcium Reactor...I am looking into this now. Basically CO2 tank puts Co2 into the water in the reactor, dissolves the media in the reactor and slowly drips calcium rich water into the tank. I still have some learning to do here
7. Phosban reactor with media will absorb Phosphate. Phosphate is a contributor to Cynao(sp?) Bacteria Among other things. It is an ugly messy red mat that will cover your sand and anythhing else. The reactor is usually fed with a powerhead or some type of pump.
8. Best thing with older houses, spend some money and talk with an engineer and they can make recommendations on any changes that might need to be made. A fully loaded 120 with rock and all will weigh approx 1500lbs.

PM me and I can share my setup with you and try to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge. Ask the folks on RC there are some really great people here. Also check out reefkeeping.com which features the tank of the month and is also a good source for setup information and just good reefkeeping information in general

[awestruck]

Wow Steve, thank you! The closed loop sounds like the way to go, and if I need more water movement I'll put some of the Koralias in there and just hide them. One of the things I've been looking forward to is aquascaping without having to try to conceal everything. That can be challenging.

I am going to have a lot of chaeto in the fuge so I will stick one powerhead in there so it can tumble around.

I'm confused as to how the plumbing connects the sump and fuge since they are separate containers. The couple that sold me the tank gave me the 60g. tub for the sump, and as we talked the husband suggested my 58g. would make a great fuge, and especially good since I will have even more water volume. I think I need to bribe someone with $25.00 and beer/soda/pizza to come and show me how to do this.

Marcus (the guy who sold me the tank) suggested getting help with the calcium reactor because of the co2. I'm thrilled to have it, just nervous and clueless!

Yes, I'm happy to have the phosban reactor, but again, where the heck do you put it?

When I first considered location for the tank, I was going to put it flat against a support wall. However, I moved it to a different location just to get ideas, and it looks fabulous on a wall that's not a support wall, and it's corner-to-corner. It takes up more space by not being flat against the wall, but the view of it is spectacular! I definitely won't fill it though, until I talk to someone--a structural engineer?

I'll post pics when I borrow a camera, if that is ever!

Any other words of wisdom/experience?

[techreef]

Re: the sump/fuge situation, you have several options. You can run them separate, but that will require you having 2 return pumps to pump water from both vessels back up to your display. Plus you'll need to make your plumbing accept the 2 return pumps' flows. Not a big deal, but I think if it were me, I'd try and noodle out a way to connect your sump to your fuge, so that they share water flow. That could involve drilling a hole in your 58G tank, which would make me nervous but there are several threads here on RC that go through the whole process very well. A 58G tank is pretty big compared to a cheapo 10G. (i'd be willing to try drilling a 10G tank no problem!)

Did Marcus sell you any/all the plumbing that he had for the tank, or are you building that stuff from scratch? I'd guess "from scratch" since you're thinking about a sump/fuge in your basement, which may be different from how Marcus had his set up.

Re: the location of the phosphate reactor, you generally just hang them off of or in your sump. I have the Two Little Fishies reactor, and it hangs off the outside wall of my fuge, and empties its output into the return section of my sump.

[awestruck]

Burton and nautica, thank you VERY much!! :)

Techreef, I think I should connect the sump and fuge somehow, but I will not drill. Someone else will have to help me.

Marcus gave me everything--this man is so nice. He included all of the plumbing, 2 extra mh bulbs, the boxes are all labeled w/the contents, he included the cal. reactor media, I forgot what else but it's basically everything because he tore his entire system down. He even gave me the 2x4's the sump was sitting on... He and his wife are really nice people.

Marcus did suggest buying flexible hoses since I'll be plumbing downstairs--he said it's easier and the hoses are inexpensive.

[awestruck]

Ok, forgot this: Marcus gave me his 60g. tub that he used for a sump; his plumbing was set up in a closet behind the tank so it's a bit different than mine will be since everything is going in the basement.

[awestruck]

Great news: Marcus said the 58g. won't have to be drilled because the 60g. tub has a bulkhead (?) thus they can be connected. Yesssss! I'm moving right along.