Need to bullet proof my new tank!

[DamnPepShrimp]

Ok, well I am upgrading tanks to a, acrylic 110 (72x18x19.5) and it is going in the cold dark basement :rollface: . I am getting an auto top of when I set the tank up, still undecided on which one, found a cheap one from aquahub for $50 with 3 float valves, just needs some assembly. My main concern is when the power goes out. I want to make sure my tank and sump don't overflow. I know I will need a float valve for that as well, but how exactly is the most bullet proof way to go about doing this? Is there a kit I can buy? Also when the power goes out, I need to keep heat and water flow on the tank. I know there is some kind of battery back I can get, but which one and where? Thanks for any help, I just want to take every precaution possible with the new tank, do everything right, I don't want to lose any expensive lifestock.

[Blown 346]

For the tank and sump not overflowing your return lines should have a small hole drilled in them. When you do loose power there wont be any type of return suction down to your sump. Youw ill get a littel water back to the sump from the overflow(s), but that will be it.

For the back up power, I have heard of people using there computer. Not sure how that exactly works though.

[new_world_disor]

you can buy marine back up kits. or set up your own system with car batteries !

[hahnmeister]

Thought you were afraid of the tank being shot at or something...lol.

[HBtank]

For overflow problems:

#1 have a sump large enough to accomodate all the water that will come down the overflow and return lines. That simple, but a MUST. Always make sure it has the capacity and test it a few times yourself.

#2 As stated in another post, by making your returns at the surface (I use lockline angled right at the surface) or drilling holes near the surface you can drastically cut the amount the sump will need to hold and reduce the wasted space in terms of usable sump space.

For heating and flow:

#1. battery backup work great for low wattage propeller style powerheads. Most computer backupos that will run your pumps for hours are not very cheap. A powerhead (though expensive) called the Ecotech Vortech, has a battery backup made fspecially for it that is relatively cheap and may factor into a decision if this is a direction you want to go. The cheap backup can make the overall price of powerheads and backup cheaper than some competitors.

#2 No battery backup will be able to run heaters and main electrical equipment like return pumps etc.. for any length of time We are taliing minutes for these devices. The only thing that will help with this is a generator. For times when there will not be someone around, an expensive automated backup generator is needed and would be usually set up for the whole house... If you are around, a standard generator will work, or even a quality true sine wave (modified sine wave inverters are MUCH cheaper but may damage some equipment like pumps, they may be fine for heaters though) inverter for you car, effectively making your car into a generator.

It all depends on the tank. But for most sytems a battery backup for flow on low wattage powerheads will keep the tank alive for many hours, or even a day until you can get to the tank and use an inverter, generator of other methods to help with heat and other problems.

A tank could cool many degrees and be fine, but oxygen demand could deplete a tank of 02 and kill it quickly, flow is most important and allows you time to do other things for less immediate problems, like insulate the tank with blankets etc....

I use a battery backup and a cheap invertor. I may consider a generator, but also consider this a pretty nice thing to have for my own needs during a bpower outage that would make my tank demand it...

[Snowboarda42]

Another decently effective way of heating your tank is with Calcium Chloride. I don't remember which one produces heat, but I use the stuff by Prestone, which is actually called Driveway Heat. Its Calcium Chloride that heats up when it hits water. It will actually get pretty warm. You can take a few tupperware containers, fill them w/water and add some of the Prestone Heat to it, put a lid on, and float the tupperware in the tank. Don't worry if you spill some in your tank, since all it will do is raise your Ca++.

As for movement, get yourself a battery backup airstone pump. DRSFOSTERSMITH sells one that automatically switches on when the power goes out. I think its ~40-60 dollars. If possible, unplug your return pump when the power goes out too, since you'll most likely be only heating the DT (Display Tank) while its out, and you don't want a rush of cold water coming in all of a sudden. Once its back on, wait for the heaters in your sump to heat the water back up to temp, then restart it. Be sure to do the same to your DT before restarting as well.

HTH.

[DamnPepShrimp]

Thanks for the replies. I know about the hole drilled in the return, is that all I'd need? I'll have to look into back up batteries, is Dr. Fostersmith the only one that sells them? That is interesting that CaCl will heat up when it reacts with water, makes sense if that is the casing (reacting). Isn't that what a lot of people put in there 2 part dosing solutions?

[Macimage]

I'd agree with Hbtank's advice to be sure your sump can handle the overflow from your tank. Holes drilled in the return will clog at the worst time, ie usually when you need them.

To bulletproof your system, you need to set it up so that your sump can handle the overflow and return lines.

Joyce

[DamnPepShrimp]

Yeah, that is what I am going to do, I also want to install float valves for the pumps protection. Luckily I am building the tank setup and can design/make changes now before it is filled with water. The tank is going to sit on hardwood floor so I can not have the tank overflow in any way!

[Dave & Monica]

I pulled out the drill and what do ya know... the space needed in the sump for the back flow is half what it use to be. Good tip, thanks.