be aware ro/di users [Archive] - Reef Central Online Community Archives

hiepatitis

07/29/2007, 11:53 AM

I was filtering water the other day and I noticed a sudden drop in pressure. I called Jim at filter guys for advice. Apparantley there are many city's using chloramine instead of chlorine to disinfect water. Chloramine does not vaporize as quickly as chlorine making it a more effective disinfectant. However, the use of chloramine includes the addition of ammonia. Not only is the ammonia dangerous to aquarium life but the chloramine is not filtered as well by your normal 4 stage ro/di. Jim sold me a add-on single stage so that I can run 2 stages of special granulated carbon that removes the chloramine and prevents clogging my pre-filters and exhausting my DI resin. If you want to make sure your city is not using chloramine, look up the city water quality report and it should tell you what disinfectant is being used.

delsol650

07/29/2007, 01:18 PM

I have the filterguyz RO/DI as well and got the extra DI to filter out the chloramine...

Nuuze

07/29/2007, 01:34 PM

Yep, you have to check if your city is using chloramine. Jim checked the city I live in and mine is not.

sfsuphysics

07/29/2007, 04:01 PM

I'm curious how a sudden drop of pressure lead to the chloramine being used instead of chlorine... Either way, San Francisco has been on the Chloramine trip for quite a few years already.

Also while 2 stages of carbon is good, you don't need any "special" carbon filters, I've been using carbon block filters for quite some time.

fishnfst

07/29/2007, 06:20 PM

Hiep, have you checked your water pressure and or temp? Street pressure can and sometimes will fluctuate depending on how your building was plumbed.. A water main break or redirection of water in your city can also affect water pressure.. You can check static water pressure with a simple gauge that can be had for $10 at home depot.. Just screw it onto a hose bib and turn it on.. If memory serves me correctly the upc only requires 15psi of water pressure.. Far too little too run most ro/di setups.. I know you just moved so you should check yours to see where you sit ...

Good Luck

delsol650

07/29/2007, 06:57 PM

I use a boosterpump

sfsuphysics

07/29/2007, 07:02 PM

How does that booster pump work? Is it a loud pump that runs all the time? Just when you're making water? More importantly is it loud? :D Because even if it boosts your PSI up, it still takes quite a while to make a decent sized batch of water

hiepatitis

07/29/2007, 08:30 PM

The water pressure on the RO/DI was 45 when I moved in and now it's at 15. The carbon block will filter chloramine but it clogs much faster than the granulated carbon. My unit is only 3 months old and I don't use that much water.

lbear

07/30/2007, 02:31 AM

Some people install solenoid and float valve to control booster pump. I just manually trun on booster pump when there is need. It cut my RO/DI water filling time to half and helps saving water. But it consumes electricity and indeed very noisy.

sfsuphysics

07/30/2007, 11:03 AM

15 PSI? WHere abouts do you live, that's definitely something I'd call the water company to inquire about. If anything ask them what the water pressure is on the street the last time they took a reading, it might simply be a matter of your pipes being clogged (which then becomes a not so simple matter to deal with)

delsol650

07/30/2007, 12:40 PM

My RODI/booster pump is portable.. only hook it up when I need it... its not that loud either... ramps up pressure to 90psi compared to 45-50psi without it...

merlock116

07/30/2007, 02:45 PM

the 8800 booster pump is almost silent. you can grab these on ebay for a good price. make sure it comes w/ the AC power plug.

i use the 8800 to boost psi in san francisco from 80 psi to around 115 psi or so (the speedfit connectors are rated for around 125 psi)

sfsuphysics

07/31/2007, 08:51 AM

ok kiss my butt for having 80psi in SF :P I only have 40 on my hilltop abode... of course a lot of that is because the pumping station is downhill from me.

raddogz

07/31/2007, 12:26 PM

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10445647#post10445647 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by merlock116
the 8800 booster pump is almost silent. you can grab these on ebay for a good price. make sure it comes w/ the AC power plug.

i use the 8800 to boost psi in san francisco from 80 psi to around 115 psi or so (the speedfit connectors are rated for around 125 psi)

You will need to be very careful about having the psi at more than 80psi. I recall optimum rating is at 60 to roughly 75 psi on the supply end of the ro/di filter

delsol650

07/31/2007, 12:56 PM

I talked to Jim at filterguyz... they're rater at 100psi.. the booster keep it at 90.

Paladin

07/31/2007, 01:03 PM

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10438256#post10438256 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hiepatitis
Jim sold me a add-on single stage so that I can run 2 stages of special granulated carbon that removes the chloramine and prevents clogging my pre-filters and exhausting my DI resin.
I was having issues with my water output too just recently and after changing the GACs it's running fine now. I added an additional GAC to my 4-stage a while back to handle the chloramines. But I was wondering what you meant my "special" granulated carbon. Is there a specific brand/model that you use that you'd recommend?

delsol650

07/31/2007, 01:28 PM

I think you just tell Jim whats in your water and he customized the filters for your need.

xinumaster

07/31/2007, 01:54 PM

Does anyone know of SJ uses cloramine?

xinumaster

07/31/2007, 03:33 PM

Okay. I just call SJWC. They use chloramine in their water treatment. Time to order that extra carbon chamber for filtering chloramine.

hiepatitis

07/31/2007, 03:50 PM

yeah I checked north san jose and they do use it. that's where i was living before. that's why my pre-filters clogged so fast and loss pressure. sorry for my wording. it's not "special" but just granulated carbon cartridge as opposed to a carbon block.

northbay-reefer

07/31/2007, 04:17 PM

Hiep, I've been trying to reach you but didnt get a reply, are you still available for some frags ?

merlock116

07/31/2007, 04:44 PM

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10452107#post10452107 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by raddogz
You will need to be very careful about having the psi at more than 80psi. I recall optimum rating is at 60 to roughly 75 psi on the supply end of the ro/di filter

http://www.dow.com/liquidseps/prod/les2inch.htm
(click on the model, then click on the PDF datasheet)

The non-commercial RO membranes most of us use in the link above (Dow Filmtec membranes) are rated at 50 psi to produce so much water. It's just a general guideline to tell us consumers of how much to expect at average psi.

There is a nice chart on the datasheet to show you graphically approximately how much GPD to expect as you increase or decrease your psi.

These membranes have an upper limit of 300 psi. The limiting factor for psi are our 1/4" connectors, not the membrane itself.

hiepatitis

08/01/2007, 01:59 AM

Are there certain contaminents that cannot be detected by a TDS meter?

anglecoral

08/01/2007, 04:39 PM

has something new come up since randy did his testing ?
I thought he found that a typical RO/DI system performed well at removing chloramine
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.php

Thales

08/01/2007, 05:00 PM

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10461450#post10461450 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by anglecoral
has something new come up since randy did his testing ?
I thought he found that a typical RO/DI system performed well at removing chloramine
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.php

Nothing different - most RODI systems contain a carbon section, which is what removes the chloramine which is what he was talking about.

sfsuphysics

08/01/2007, 05:03 PM

Those needing an extra "carbon" compartment, due to having only 2 pre-filter stages. I might suggest going for a clear container (a bit more pricy) and using it for your sediment filter instead, and just make that the first filter the water goes through. Since that usually is a good indication to how dirty your water is coming in by how fast it turns brown.