ReefKeeper 2 vs. Aqua Controller Jr

[lilchris]

I am looking into getting a controller fr my system. I would like to know what you guys and gals think of the Aqua Controller Jr. , and the ReefKeeper 2.

What are some pros and cons of both. Which one gives me more of a bang for my buck. I would like to get something that I can hook up to a computer and get some real time data when I am away.

Also if there is another controller out there that is better please don't hesitate to chime in.

I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for one of these things. I know they are not cheap but you have some out there that is at a reasonable price.

[Chris Witort]

I have the aquacontroller jr and I went through the same head scratching exercise you are in now. I chose the jr for a few reasons: it is more flexible due to the ability to program it for your needs, It can handle up to 12 devices, the reefkeeper has had a few problems with reliability (most of these were some time ago I don't know if these are resolved or not), the jr can handle a larger amperage draw, the jr can be used with x-10 devices as well as hardwired.

[lilchris]

The X10 devices are for internet connections right?

[Chris Witort]

No, they are for switching devices that are not connected to the controllers dedicated outlets. An example would be your controller is on one side of the room and the aquarium is on the other, an x-10 swithch is plugged into an outlet near the aquarium the lights are plugged into the x-10 switch, you can use your controller to turn the lights on and off.

[Chris Witort]

I see that you are in Minot, are you USAF?

[gulinias]

I hate to steal his thread but are either of these Vista compatible or have a good work around if they are not. Thanks!

[seagirl]

i bought the ac jr, best thing i ever bought. I use the dc8, want another one already.

[Steve 926]

I use an AC jr with 2, DC4 HD box's. I like being able to use a separate AC circuit to each DC4 HD, each one is rated for 15 amps.
Their regular DC4 is rated at 12 amps, but will not handle certain high intensity ballast's, so the HD version covers it all.

Here is a link in an Excel pgm. that will help you decide which controller, & the features that they offer

http://aquariumcontrollers.com/controllers.xls

Steve 926

:smokin:

[pgordemer]

Having owned both of them, you would not go wrong with either item.

I say the decision boils around future growth vs plug and play.

If you want to just get it up and running, then the RK2 is a no brainer and works well.

If you intend to grow and expand in the future, then the JR is a better deal. As you get larger the DCxx units can be used by the bigger controllers.

The program language for the JR. may be a seem intimating but is very flexible for complicated setups.

I use a RK2 on a 55 and it runs everything fine. I use a JR on a 90 with a 40 gallon sump with seperate DC8 and DC4 (Allows for upstairs/downstairs controlling.

Price is not a decided factor as its a wash when you compare it outlet by outlet

[lilchris]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10432943#post10432943 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chris Witort
I see that you are in Minot, are you USAF?

Yes I am in the Air Force.

[lilchris]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10437361#post10437361 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gordemer
Having owned both of them, you would not go wrong with either item.

I say the decision boils around future growth vs plug and play.

If you want to just get it up and running, then the RK2 is a no brainer and works well.


If you intend to grow and expand in the future, then the JR is a better deal. As you get larger the DCxx units can be used by the bigger controllers.

The program language for the JR. may be a seem intimating but is very flexible for complicated setups.

I use a RK2 on a 55 and it runs everything fine. I use a JR on a 90 with a 40 gallon sump with seperate DC8 and DC4 (Allows for upstairs/downstairs controlling.

Price is not a decided factor as its a wash when you compare it outlet by outlet


Lets just say in the future I want to have a build thread here on Reef Central in the Large Tank forum. :rollface:
I want to have a room divider of at least 250 gallons.

[steve the plumb]

I am also looking into this.My tank is 300 gal with a 100 - 150 gal sump.I am just setting up in fact my tank will arrive in a day or two.I didn't buy the sump yet because I am waiting for the tank then I will build a stand.The sump will be in the garage directly behind the tank.I will use a kalk reactor so I know the rk2 has a ph controller.I have a tunze osmolator for top off.Lights will be T5 mainly.Will be nice to have a unit that will shut off lights if its to hot.Turn the kalk reactor pumps on when ph is low and of when when ph is corrected.Shut off lights in tank and sump.Maybe control a fan for heat(chiller if need be)I have the aqua medic heat controller its pretty accurate.I also have a ph monitor and an orp monitor so I can doubble check to make sure the ph is correct and later I can add a seperate controller for ozone so I don't need a unit that does orp.

[areze]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10432951#post10432951 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gulinias
I hate to steal his thread but are either of these Vista compatible or have a good work around if they are not. Thanks!

I have installed aquanotes light on my vista 64bit PC. it runs fine, I havent yet used it because I havent needed to... but the program itself installs and loads up. obviously it goes in the programfiles(x86) folder, but thats fine.

[lilchris]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10437478#post10437478 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by steve the plumb
I am also looking into this.My tank is 300 gal with a 100 - 150 gal sump.I am just setting up in fact my tank will arrive in a day or two.I didn't buy the sump yet because I am waiting for the tank then I will build a stand.The sump will be in the garage directly behind the tank.I will use a kalk reactor so I know the rk2 has a ph controller.I have a tunze osmolator for top off.Lights will be T5 mainly.Will be nice to have a unit that will shut off lights if its to hot.Turn the kalk reactor pumps on when ph is low and of when when ph is corrected.Shut off lights in tank and sump.Maybe control a fan for heat(chiller if need be)I have the aqua medic heat controller its pretty accurate.I also have a ph monitor and an orp monitor so I can doubble check to make sure the ph is correct and later I can add a seperate controller for ozone so I don't need a unit that does orp.

Are you going to create a build thread here on Reef Central

[crumbletop]

If you expect to expand in the future (i.e. the large tank you envision), then the only choice, IMO, is the AC Jr. because of its expandability, and upgradability. The below is from a post several months ago. In general things should still apply:

The low end of the controller market is around $300 for a setup (pH probe, temp probe, controller, bank of outlets). The main competitors in the $300 price range are:

1) AC Jr. (Neptune Systems)
2) ReefKeeper2 (Digital Aquatics)
3) Premium Aquatics Lighthouse (Premium Aquatics)

The AC Jr. is the most flexible, expandable, and customizable of the bunch. Here are some of the main points:

AC Jr.
Controls up to 12 channels (8 come with the basic setup)
Complex programming capability (multiple feed timers, multiple conditional statements)
Has a digital input (also if you get the serial port option) that allows you to connect things like a float switch to shut off pumps if the water level in the sump gets too low, or to use it to drive an auto topoff pump.
You can upgrade to a more advanced unit if you ever needed to.

RK2:
Looks cool.
controls 8 channels (max)

Lighthouse:
Plug and play webserver built in. Ethernet built in.
Only controls 4 channels
Will monitor orp in addition to ph

The AC Jr. with serial port, Lighthouse, and RK2 all cost right about the same ($299). I believe they all work pretty well. The AC Jr. has a bit more flexibility and functionality than the others.

[crumbletop]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10437478#post10437478 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by steve the plumb
I am also looking into this.My tank is 300 gal with a 100 - 150 gal sump.I am just setting up in fact my tank will arrive in a day or two.I didn't buy the sump yet because I am waiting for the tank then I will build a stand.The sump will be in the garage directly behind the tank.I will use a kalk reactor so I know the rk2 has a ph controller.I have a tunze osmolator for top off.Lights will be T5 mainly.Will be nice to have a unit that will shut off lights if its to hot.Turn the kalk reactor pumps on when ph is low and of when when ph is corrected.Shut off lights in tank and sump.Maybe control a fan for heat(chiller if need be)I have the aqua medic heat controller its pretty accurate.I also have a ph monitor and an orp monitor so I can doubble check to make sure the ph is correct and later I can add a seperate controller for ozone so I don't need a unit that does orp.

If I were you, I'd go with something like the ACIII instead of the lower end units. The ACIII can use 2 pH probes which can help you with the ca reactor (pH of the effluent as well as pH of the tank). It can also control more outlets. The RK2 is 8 max individually controlled outlets, and the AC Jr is 12 max. Also, the ACIII can send you alerts if things ever go awry. I've got a pretty similar setup to yours, but mine is only a 90 AGA, and I dose 2-part instead of running a Ca reactor.

[steve the plumb]

I used to dose the two part on my 150 and I will be doing the same thing on this setup.I had a kalk disaster while I was on vacation with the 150 and lost everything.I will use aqua medic sp pump to pull water in to the reactor so I want the controller to shut off the reactor plus pump when the ph is fine.I will also use my ph monitor and I have an orp monitor.I don't know if I will get an ozone unit but maybe in the future I might.Maybe its better to get a controller that does orp aswell.I will start a build thread in the large reef forum.I am getting the tank in a day or two.I don't have a cell phone to get alerts but my main concern is heat.Sump will be in garage so if there is a flood its ok but its nice to know that I can have an option of setting a float switch in case sump does go dry.My worst fear is to overdose with kalk again so thats why I want a pump that pulls not pushes.I am using the aquamedic reef doser doubble for 2 part so I thing the sp 3000 is the same,no timer works with power so the controller will turn the pump on when ph is low plus turn on kalk reactor pump.I don't know how much water will be dosed so that may be a problem.I don't want the reactor to dose to much water but with 450 gal I think with evaporation I should be ok.I will test everything before any corals or fish get placed into the tank.Thanks for the help maybe the acIII is a better choice.Is it easy to use

[crumbletop]

I think it is reasonably easy to use. For basic functions, it comes pretty much out of the box ready to go. For more advanced stuff there is a bit of a learning curve -- but it is pretty much set it and forget it. Last summer my tank got hot twice -- once when I upgraded my lighting. The AC Jr. saved the day by cutting the lights as the temp rose. I had it set to cut on fans first, then cut the lights one by one. I then upgraded my fan setup and all has been great. For kalk dosing, it is very reasonable to be able to cut the pump to that if the pH exceeds a certain value, or cut the ca reactor of the tank ph goes below a certain value. You could do all of the above with just the AC Jr., but the ACIII will give you much more expandability and much more capability.

I remember reading the thread when you had the tank crash, and I know that was a major bummer. If I were in your shoes with a 450 gal system, being able to see it on the web while on vacation or out of town (temp, ph, are the lights on, etc.) woudl be a big plus.

[Steve 926]

For kalk dosing, it is very reasonable to be able to cut the pump to that if the pH exceeds a certain value, or cut the ca reactor of the tank ph goes below a certain value.


Hello Crumbletop.
I would like to start a kalk addition to my display, I was considering just adding it to the top off water. What's your opinion of setting the T/O pump, to a ph setting on the AC Jr to be on the safe side ?


Steve 926

:smokin:

[crumbletop]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10440910#post10440910 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Steve 926
For kalk dosing, it is very reasonable to be able to cut the pump to that if the pH exceeds a certain value, or cut the ca reactor of the tank ph goes below a certain value.


Hello Crumbletop.
I would like to start a kalk addition to my display, I was considering just adding it to the top off water. What's your opinion of setting the T/O pump, to a ph setting on the AC Jr to be on the safe side ?


Steve 926

:smokin:

How much topoff do you normally use in a day? If you mix the kalk in the topoff container, you don't have to saturate it if you use large volumes of water in your 50 gal. Basically, you could do several things, though. You could have separate kalk and plain water topoffs, and dose the kalk on a schedule. You can also just run your auto topoff as all kalkwasser. That is what most do, I think. I run all of my topoff as kalkwasser. I think I'm probably around a gallon/day (a little more than that I think). I still dose two part which keeps my pH around 8.1 - 8.4.

The thing I think you would want to do is figure out what upper limit you'll have on your pH and cut the topoff if the pH runs too high. I don't think it would work too well the other way around (turn the pump on if the pH got too low). Others may be able to comment on that though.

[steve the plumb]

You can use the tunze ozmolator with the kalk dispencer.Thats what I was using till I got a kalk reactor.I had 1 1/2 gal of water evaporate per day.I used to put 2 tbls of kalk in the kalk dispencer every 3 to 4 days depending.In a heavily dominated sps,lps tank I found kalk was only good for my low ph.I am sure it added some calcium but no where near my tanks demands.I prefer using randys 2 part for that simply because it was very stable and every time I would test the levels were basically the same.

ACIII I do have a wireless router so I can send an e-mail if I am away but the next time I do go away I will have someone come over every other day plus the thought of having a controller makes things lot safer and less worry.Should I get the ACIII package?I haven't looked around.The prolifux looks very good aswell with lots of upgrades but its not cheap either.I am not great with computers so I don't think I will be going to program the unit.I do want something with a simple interface and thats reliable.Just need the unit to control heat issues(in case) control ph leves so a disaster doesn't happen again.I think using the sp 3000 I won't get a syphon of kalk water over dosing the tank.The only problem I may face is if to much water gets dosed (kalk water) and the tank overflows.I don't know how much kalk water will be needed to maintain a steady ph.If there is enough kalk in the reactor I would think I would be fine.I will have to test every thing to see.Could I add float switch and tie that into the kalk reactor and sp 3000 plug.This way if to much kalk water is dosed I won't have a flood.If water spills it will be in the garage but I would like to have some kind of safe guard since I really won't know how much kalk water will be needed to maintain a steady ph of 8.2-8.3 I will still use my osmolator for top off.

[crumbletop]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10443758#post10443758 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by steve the plumb
You can use the tunze ozmolator with the kalk dispencer.Thats what I was using till I got a kalk reactor.I had 1 1/2 gal of water evaporate per day.I used to put 2 tbls of kalk in the kalk dispencer every 3 to 4 days depending.In a heavily dominated sps,lps tank I found kalk was only good for my low ph.I am sure it added some calcium but no where near my tanks demands.I prefer using randys 2 part for that simply because it was very stable and every time I would test the levels were basically the same.

ACIII I do have a wireless router so I can send an e-mail if I am away but the next time I do go away I will have someone come over every other day plus the thought of having a controller makes things lot safer and less worry.Should I get the ACIII package?I haven't looked around.The prolifux looks very good aswell with lots of upgrades but its not cheap either.I am not great with computers so I don't think I will be going to program the unit.I do want something with a simple interface and thats reliable.Just need the unit to control heat issues(in case) control ph leves so a disaster doesn't happen again.I think using the sp 3000 I won't get a syphon of kalk water over dosing the tank.The only problem I may face is if to much water gets dosed (kalk water) and the tank overflows.I don't know how much kalk water will be needed to maintain a steady ph.If there is enough kalk in the reactor I would think I would be fine.I will have to test every thing to see.Could I add float switch and tie that into the kalk reactor and sp 3000 plug.This way if to much kalk water is dosed I won't have a flood.If water spills it will be in the garage but I would like to have some kind of safe guard since I really won't know how much kalk water will be needed to maintain a steady ph of 8.2-8.3 I will still use my osmolator for top off.

Regarding your kalk setup, that is exactly what I use (kalk reactor + tunze osmolator). I also dose 2-part for the real ca and alk.

Regarding the ACIII -- yes you can use a float switch to do what you describe. It will take a bit of DIY to do it, but not too bad. Also, programming your own unit is also a bit "DIYish" but also not too bad. I think you'll run into the same thing no matter the unit, because you'll have to tell each unit what to do given pH or the float switch or whatever. It isn't all that hard to do, but it isn't exactly plug and play either for the more complex stuff. Also, I haven't really researched the Profilux units. There are several to evaluate in the ACIII price range. The ACIII is a good choice.

[steve the plumb]

Thanks well I won't be using the osmolator with a kalk reactor simply because of what went wrong the last time.I will look into the ac3 the price isn't that cheap for the ac3 I may get that from the states.Seems alot of goods are cheaper there.

[Steve 926]

[QUOTE]<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10441659#post10441659 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by crumbletop
[ I run all of my topoff as kalkwasser. I think I'm probably around a gallon/day (a little more than that I think). I still dose two part which keeps my pH around 8.1 - 8.4.


Thanks for the reply Crumbletop
Do you add the 2 part solution as a daily ~ weekly additive,
or dousing it on a continual drip .

Steve 926

:smokin:

[crumbletop]

I'd like to automate the 2-part as a continual drip. I currently dose daily. It doesn't take much time to do, but I'd rather have it automated so I can be lazy ;)

[steve the plumb]

it also helps to dose slowly during the whole 24 hr vs dosing one shot.This way your tank is always stable and your levels won't spike.I found corals did well and alk and ca are always available at stable levels.

[Steve 926]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10446134#post10446134 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by steve the plumb
it also helps to dose slowly during the whole 24 hr vs dosing one shot.This way your tank is always stable and your levels won't spike.I found corals did well and alk and ca are always available at stable levels.



So are you dosing each one of the 2 part (Ca + Alk) at the same time, or adjusting each accordingly to their needs. I am confused about doing this, so I appreciate your advice. I have the 2 part recipe in 1 gal containers, Ca + Alk. When I test for Ca + alk. the Ca could use a bump up from 350 ppm to 400 ~420, so I adjusted it slowly over several hrs. The Alk is at 3.5 meq/L so I don't think the Alk needs any. How would I prevent over dosing the Alk by dripping both solutions at the same time. I was considering, just to add the 2 part solutions on a weekly/ individual basis, but the drip method is a more stable way.
I also would like to add kalk to my TO water, evap is less than 1gal per day

Thanks for a reply !!

Steve 926

:smokin:

[Steve 926]

Sorry to get off course here .
Sometimes you get caught up in things & forget what the thread is all about.

The Neptune Systems controllers offer better diversity than just about all the others available. I recently had a DC4 HD box serviced by their staff & they are great to deal with, No charge other than shipping (only mom would treat you better) !!!
Let alone, they answer all the dopey questions you may have about programing the unit.

Steve 926



:smokin:

[steve the plumb]

I was using the aqua medic reef doser twin.It has 2 pumps that work on timers.So you can dose both alk and cal but not at the same time.I used to dose cal every 2 hrs and alk every 1 1/2 hr.It goes by time so I think the doser doses ml by the minute.It basicaly drips it so I would time them so they will dose together the first time you start the dosing but on the next cylcle they are dosing 1/2 apart.You will dose more alk then calcium.I use to use 1 litre of alk per week and 1 litre of cal in 1 1/2 to 2 weeks.I was also dosing kalk so I am sure it added some cal but no where near enough to meet the tanks needs.Its easy to figure it out if you go by how much the doser can dose per sec or minute.In the instructions it tells you how much the doser can dose.Figure out how much you need by trial and error or by using the calculator to see how much you need to dose to raise to the level you want(reef chemistry calculator) you can also look at how much you manually dose (per day) then figure out how much the doser doeses per minute(again ml) and devide that in a day.I used trial and error.I started with dosing every hour to 1 1/2 but started with dosing for 1 minute then I would raise the amont of time.When you dose you can test for levels after five minutes if you see the levels are to high you can lower the dose time.Like I said I don't remember how much the unit doses per minute or per second.If you look at your dosing instructions you then figure out your daily needs and divid it into how much you need per day then try to figure out how much to dose per every 2 to 3 hours.You can start with lower dosing.It won't hurt.It took me a few trys to figure out how much my tank needed but in the end I got it down pact.

[token]

lilchris: I don't know what stage you are enjoying for your future build, but if expandability is a consideration, the Neptune product is the way to go, as many have suggested. The one thing to consider is that a III might be better and offer you even more flexibility in the future. Each iteration in the Neptune line has a different number of channels it can control and a maximum number of program lines that it can read. A more complicated setup (eg, the more that you want the controller to automate) might necessitate more than the Jr. can offer.

[rorchilles]

get a pig crap silo

[rorchilles]

it worked for homer

[lilchris]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10447178#post10447178 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by token
lilchris: I don't know what stage you are enjoying for your future build, but if expandability is a consideration, the Neptune product is the way to go, as many have suggested. The one thing to consider is that a III might be better and offer you even more flexibility in the future. Each iteration in the Neptune line has a different number of channels it can control and a maximum number of program lines that it can read. A more complicated setup (eg, the more that you want the controller to automate) might necessitate more than the Jr. can offer.
Thank you sir I was wondering when I was going to get my thread back:p . Lots of good info though, I don't mind. I think I will go w/ the Neptune but not sure if I want the Jr. I am not going to get crazy w/ a new system. I want like a 250 room divider. I want to have a little room maybe in the garage or in the basement for the sump. Nothing too crazy though. Thanks for all the info.

[lilchris]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10447178#post10447178 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by token
lilchris: I don't know what stage you are enjoying for your future build, but if expandability is a consideration, the Neptune product is the way to go, as many have suggested. The one thing to consider is that a III might be better and offer you even more flexibility in the future. Each iteration in the Neptune line has a different number of channels it can control and a maximum number of program lines that it can read. A more complicated setup (eg, the more that you want the controller to automate) might necessitate more than the Jr. can offer.
Thank you sir I was wondering when I was going to get my thread back:p . Lots of good info though, I don't mind. I think I will go w/ the Neptune but not sure if I want the Jr. I am not going to get crazy w/ a new system. I want like a 250 room divider. I want to have a little room maybe in the garage or in the basement for the sump. Nothing too crazy though. Thanks for all the info.

[steve the plumb]

I am looking at the ACIII also looks like it has the most features.It isn't that cheap depending on what you pick.Lots of options with neptune.RK2 is nice for the money but no orp control on it.If I did decide to get an ozone unit I am stuck needing another orp controller.

[Steve 926]

Check out the for sale forum.
You can usually find one at a good price.
There is one available now by a guy named Guilford in the forum.
I have purchased from him before & all his gear is in great, if not new condition.

Steve 926

:smokin:

[Voyager1000]

I currently have the RK2, and as much as I want to like the unit, I've had problems getting the PH probe to work.

I think I'm going to try the ACJr. or ACIII in the hopes that reliability will be better.

[Voyager1000]

well,

My RK2 is going back and I'm getting the ACJr.

I'm disapointed with the defective one I recieved, your mileage may vary......

[Waxxiemann]

can you ONLY use IceCap ballasts with the Jr.?

[GSMguy]

i use 2x250w m80 hqi ballasts with my JR

[chinzman93]

Great info in this thread. I too am considering which controller to purchase for my 90 gallon that I am setting up. Based on what I have seen in this thread I think I will be going with the ACjr.