Sump- Overflow/Pump, how to equal them out?

[TylerMoore]

Okay, so i have my sump now finally set up thanks to some advice from everyone here. I have valves set up to regulate the amount of flow from the overflow into the sump and also back into the tank. The problem is that I can't seem to find a spot where there is an equal amount of water going into the tank and out of the tank.

I can't seem to have the valves adjusted exactly, so therefore my sump water eventually rises higher and higher slowly or my tank water either rises higher slowly or slowly. Is there any way to get around this problem? how do you prevent overflows in either tank?

its impossible to get the valves adjusted to the point where they are perfectly even.



thanks a lot for the help

[flyyyguy]

You dont want them equalized. Its asking for trouble as any slight clog will result in water on the floor.

Your overflows should always be able to take a larger amoutn of water than you are actually returning from the sump

IF you have ball valve(s) on the drain from the tank to cut it close, you surely had better have a back up drain/overflow set just a topuch higher than the main drain in case the main drain gets slightly clogged with anything

[TylerMoore]

am i missing something? if your taking in more water from the overflow then your outputting, wouldn't that result in the sump overflowing?

I think i may have designed this wrong all together... what makes it work the way you mentioned?

[flyyyguy]

If the overflow/drain is higher capacity than what you are running the return pump at.......the sump will not overflow......The water draining to it will be no more than what you pump to the tank. There is no more water available than that which it pumps.......

Not to complicate things for you.......but putting ball valves on your overflow drain lines to make the drain flow equal to your return flow is actually a method used to make the drain as silent as possible......BUT....a seperate back up drain set a touch higher than the main overflow level is a absolute necessity if you do this as the slightest clog in the main drain will make the tank overflow

[TylerMoore]

i'm going to post a few pictures and you guys can tell me if its designed correctly. because i feel like i'm missing some sort of chamber to prevent overflowing.

give me 10 minutes.

[TylerMoore]

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x165/TylerMoorePhotos/IMG_5667.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x165/TylerMoorePhotos/IMG_5666_small.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x165/TylerMoorePhotos/IMG_5665_small.jpg

those are pictures of my sump/refuge. please tell me if you think this is set up correctly, and if not what i can do to fix my problem.

Thanks a lot!

[flyyyguy]

ok..we are talking about a HOB overflow box. didnt know that.

It looks fine. lose the ball valve on the drain. You can keep it there but open it wide and make sure you ahve a screen at the bulhead so nothing will get caught there.

Only thing i would suggest is to use flexible pvc next time. It is quieter and it would eliminate the majority of the fittings needed., I also like the ball valve on the return line right next to the pump......but it will work fine where it is

oh....one other thing. either make the sump retunr line dump at the top of the tank with locline or something just under the waters surface, or drill 2 or 3 1/8" holes just under the waters surface. This will break the siphon when you shut the power off so the entire tank doesnt backsiphon into your sump
It will only backsiphon until it hits the end of the locline or it hits the holes youve drilled

[TylerMoore]

i have a backflow valve to keep it from syphoning back into my tank, so thats fine.


is it a huge deal that my baffled arn't completely sealed and they have leaks in them? I still don't understand how it won't overflow in the sump. If the overflow drains faster than the pump is pumping it back into the tank then it will certainly eventually overflow the sump, correct?

[flyyyguy]

Where will the water be coming from to overflow???

picture this:

.....the tank full right at the overflow level and the sump filled to your optimum level. the only water that can drain at that point is the water that you will be pumping from the sump into the tank. so both levels will stay the same

make sense??

I dont like backflow valves. They fill up with calcium deposits and can fail. I would suggest cutting it out and doing one of the opetion i mentioned above. But if you DO keep it, you want it removable so you can maintain it every so often so it will workj when you need it

as far as the baffles...not a huge deal if they leak some, as long as they are doing their job all is well.

[TylerMoore]

okay! thanks a lot. thanks for explaining that. i think i understand it now.


You've been a lot of help, thanks for taking the time

[flyyyguy]

:) NP, glad to help

good luck

[siropa]

one comment about your picture... is that a ballast right on the carpet next to that multi-outlet extension cord? you are just asking for a fire or short if any water drips down the lines or leaks onto the floor.

[jstraka1]

Here is a good read on the logistics of how a sump set-up works.
http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

[BeanAnimal]

I would NOT rely on a "backflow" preventer (check valve) to keep the sump from overflowing in a power outage. You WILL end up with a wet floor.

The maximum sump operating level should allow enough room for backflow during a power outage.

[JeffersonReef]

There is no reason to have a ball valve on the drain... get rid of it. Also, just pump/return less water than your overflow is rated for... if your overflow is rated for 600pgh, then pump up 400 or 500.. for instance, my overflow is rated for at least 1200gph... im only sending up 900-1000. This will prevent any problems in the future, and also ensure you dont have gurgling or flushing noises.