should i add a UV to my reef?

[dieselgrk]

im in the process of setting up a 125g mixed - sps reef, with 40g sump/ref. i like to keep alot of fish and have had bad experience with ich......should i add a UV to the system? is this safe for the reef? what size UV if any should i get??????

[juaninsac]

A UV sterilizer is a complete waste of money if you want to prevent Cryptocaryon from getting in your reef. Instead, spend that $100 on a 45 g Brute trashcan, a heater, and a power or canister filter. Bam. You've got yourself a quarantine tank. Use it wisely.

[funman1]

I think UV works very well, I run it on my main tank.

But Like Juan says if you don't have a QT, then that would be first on the list.

[Justin74]

I have never used a UV filter for any of my tanks.


-Justin

[kevin95695]

I know nothing. Having said that -- I always felt complete sterilization would also kill the stuff we want, too.

[Underwaterparadise]

Not good for a reef IMO but great for a FO or FOWLR maybe

[tfp]

i've been running a 57w uv since 2/06 without any issues. prior to installing it, i'd spent well over $300 in "reef safe" ick medications without any positive results.

30 days after installing it...ich was gone. but maybe i'm the exception to the rule :rolleye1:?

[Justin74]

Coincidence? The fish wouldnt go down without a fight?
What about the ICH that settles on the substrate when the fish hover during the night, and other fish share the same location? What about a fish who's being consumed by ICH?The most powerfull UV isnt going to cure that, only the unfortunate free floaters that happen to be in the water column at the time it passes through it. A dip in some Ph adjusted freshwater with a heavy concentration of formalin is the best trick(and $293 cheaper ;) ) for a couple minutes or until the fish shows signs of stress, zap it before it gets into the display if your not willing or able to set up a QT. UV's have always been intended to be a redundancy or buffer but not a cure. This would be a great thread for wombat2 to chime in. What's Matt been up to anyway?


-Justin

[tfp]

all i'm saying is that it worked for me.

i tried several techniques for ridding that stuff out of my tank and nothing worked. in addition to trying the no sick fish meds, and soaking foods in freshly diced garlic, i drained my tank (a daunting task) a couple times to catch all my fish to put them in q for 30 days. the hypo for 10 days didn't work and i watched them perish but honestly, i can't blame hypo for not working because i had to quickly setup a q with some lr from the display since it wasn't fully established.

if one has an established q system setup and running, then q is an excellent protocol. but if its already in your display it may be a long battle.

i think the uv knocked the parasite down to super low levels during its reproductive cycles. btw, i used to do the formalin dips for new additions and the ick still got thru.

i got so tired of seeing the dreaded spots, scratching, rapid breathing, listlessness and couldn't enjoy my tank anymore...until i found my cure :D.

[shiveley]

I've always wondered about UV units as well, and even contemplated picking up a H.O. unit to use on a periodic bases. But I'm not convinced that a permanent UV system is such a good idea for a reef system. I mean, aren't there a degree of beneficial bacteria, and other micro organisms as well, that are active within the water column?

I think they could definitely be useful at times, but I wouldn't want one running 24/7 on my system.

[Justin74]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10013200#post10013200 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shiveley
I mean, aren't there a degree of beneficial bacteria, and other micro organisms as well, that are active within the water column?


Yes. Hence the good v bad argument.

Im just gonna sit this one out and bite my tongue ;)

-Justin

[tfp]

actually, there's another uv thread that just started in the sps forum that might provide some feedback too.

i think i've been biting my tongue too long and felt the need to share from experience.

[Sparkss]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10013200#post10013200 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shiveley
I've always wondered about UV units as well, and even contemplated picking up a H.O. unit to use on a periodic bases. But I'm not convinced that a permanent UV system is such a good idea for a reef system. I mean, aren't there a degree of beneficial bacteria, and other micro organisms as well, that are active within the water column?

I think they could definitely be useful at times, but I wouldn't want one running 24/7 on my system.

If you run a refugium as an additional food source (for mandarins, pipe fish, or other obligate pod feeders) then UV is counter productive and you might as well just disconnect your fuge as the UV renders it useless for microfauna production.

Other than that I think that UV is fine for mixed reef or FOWLR tanks.. but that is just my opinion. If you could put it on the drain instead of the return, then you would have something :) (but to size it for that would just kill your wallet).

But again, that is just my opinion :)

[tacocat]

I've been running a UV in my tank for the last three months. It's a 40w on a 250g. Two aspects that havent been mentioned are that UV has been proven to kill algae spores and aid in water clarity.

Algae hasn't been spreading very quickly in this tank, the parameters have never looked better, and there is still PLENTY of microfauna in my tank.

[kdblove_99]

I agree with this and i'm also in the same boat

there is still PLENTY of microfauna in my tank.

[CaliforniaDreamer]

I don't use and have not had experience with UV in a SW setting. I have only used UV to reduce unicellular algae in my Koi pond. My understanding is that it is not very effective on protozoan parasites like ICH. From reading Julian Sprung’s book, to effectively kill the free swimming stage of ICH the level of UV would have to be so high it would cause problems overheating the tank and would be cost prohibitive. I also suspect that it has little effect on most of the fauna that we wish to maintain in our tanks for much the same reason. At appropriate levels it does seem effective on unicellular algae and bacteria in my limited experience. However my 260 watt unit cannot keep up with my pond during the summer months when the pond gets full sun and the water temperature gets into the high 70’s. Also to keep the units effective bulbs must be changed every 6 months (at least on my unit) which is very expensive.

I suspect that UV units are effective for some aquarists depending on their expectations and other husbandry practices. One of the local breeders of clownfish has effectively used UV to prevent the spread of bacterial infections in his clown rearing system. However I also suspect that some of the purported effects of a UV units are due to overzealous salesmanship.

[Sparkss]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10013823#post10013823 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tacocat
I've been running a UV in my tank for the last three months. It's a 40w on a 250g. Two aspects that havent been mentioned are that UV has been proven to kill algae spores and aid in water clarity.

Algae hasn't been spreading very quickly in this tank, the parameters have never looked better, and there is still PLENTY of microfauna in my tank.

I agree 100% and UV units are usually rated with 2 GPH ratings.. one for use as a clarifier and another, much slower, fir use as a sterilizer. They can help to really improve the water clarity of a tank.

And just in case you guys were making the microfauna comment directed at me :), I never said that UV would impact the microfauna population of a tank, only that putting it between a fuge (being used for microfauna production) and the display tank would render the fuge useless :).

[tacocat]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10015019#post10015019 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sparkss
I never said that UV would impact the microfauna population of a tank,



Yes you did.:D

The evidence suggest that UV is effective in killing unicelluar organisms. Higher creatures are probably just blinded. :D

[dieselgrk]

well i think after asking the ? and getting such a huge response of mixed reviews....im gonna setup a QT for future fish puchases and buy a RO/DI filter instead.......:)

[tfp]

diesel,
starting your system with rodi water would definitely be a good thing. sorry for all the mixed reviews - i'm usually more reserved when it comes to advice but when something works it should at least be considered an alternative.

[Marko9]

I have debated the same issue for quit some time and most likely add a UV on my new tank design. Lets see-- a couple tangs, a couple clowns, firefish, anthias, gobies, flamehawk, blenny, wrasses, etc-- all equal a lot of money and attachment. If I can create a better environment for them to live in and not perish (which would mean me too replace more fish instead of buying more corals) why would I not do that. In someways it is almost unresponsible not to do it. IMO.

[funman1]

If you don't have RODI yet then that's FIRST on the list.
I bought one of those before I even bought a tank
:)

[juaninsac]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10015580#post10015580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dieselgrk
well i think after asking the ? and getting such a huge response of mixed reviews....im gonna setup a QT for future fish puchases and buy a RO/DI filter instead.......:)

Nice. It is well worth it to QT especially if you are just setting up your tank. For treating Cryptocaryon in the QT:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2004/mini3.htm