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nrehman
03/05/2007, 11:49 AM
Steven,

If I could please have your feedback on my ich plan.

I have a 72 gallon system which I am upgrading to a larger tank. However, one fish (a blue tang) has an ich infestation in my existing 72g display. This is probably due to stress as there were several new arrivals recently. There are now 22 fish.

Since I have to breakdown and move the existing tank to replace it with a new 210g tank, I was planning to use another spare 72 gallon tank, sump, skimmer, lights as my QT tank.

My treatment program plan is to:
1. have the 72g tank barebottom,
2. transfer 50% of the existing tanks water,
3. reduce salinity to 1.009-1.0010 over 5-7 days and maintain, and
4. have 10% waterchanges every 2 days for 30 days.
There would be no biofilter.

Could you provide your thoughts on the effectiveness of such a quarantine setup?
What are your thoughts on increasing increasing the waterflow to the bottom of the tank so that ich protomonts have less of a chance of attaching (two Tunzes alternating on/off)?

Also, will waterborne protomonts get "skimmed" out of the water using a skimmer?

Or, should I just setup a couple of 20g QT tanks to reduce the bioload, add aged biofilters, go hypo, and change 50% water every day for 5 weeks?

Many thanks,
Nadir

Steven Pro
03/05/2007, 03:27 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9398301#post9398301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nrehman
However, one fish (a blue tang) has an ich infestation in my existing 72g display. This is probably due to stress as there were several new arrivals recently. Nah, it is due to there being a parasite in the aquarium.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9398301#post9398301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nrehman
There are now 22 fish. :eek1:

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9398301#post9398301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nrehman
There would be no biofilter. Houston, we have a problem.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9398301#post9398301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nrehman
Could you provide your thoughts on the effectiveness of such a quarantine setup? The likelyness of most, perhaps all, your fishes dying from ammonia poisoning is high without a cycled biological filter.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9398301#post9398301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nrehman
What are your thoughts on increasing increasing the waterflow to the bottom of the tank so that ich protomonts have less of a chance of attaching (two Tunzes alternating on/off)? That might work, but I would consider it experimental at best.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9398301#post9398301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nrehman
Also, will waterborne protomonts get "skimmed" out of the water using a skimmer? I don't know of anyone who has looked at that, so I can't say.

nrehman
03/05/2007, 04:44 PM
Thanks for the quick reply.

Got it...

1. I know 22 fish is high (although most are small, i.e. 9 chromis, royal gramma, etc.). I am swapping out to the new tank this week as I have over 250 gallons of aged water in a stock tubs with live rock, etc. However, don't want the parasite there.

2. Will use a biological filter. Any recommendations on the kind of biofilter use in a 72g tank, since I was going to remove all existing live rock and sand.

Or should I swap over to the 2 x 20g QT tanks with hang-on biofilters?

Am I missing any critical aspect?

Many thanks,
Houston

Steven Pro
03/05/2007, 05:22 PM
Do you have any kind of biological filter currently running on the 72 gallon display?

nrehman
03/05/2007, 06:58 PM
140 # live rock in total, wet/dry bio-wheel and skimmer in sump.

Edit,
Water changes 8g every 7 days...

Steven Pro
03/05/2007, 10:24 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9402106#post9402106 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by nrehman
wet/dry bio-wheel and skimmer in sump. That will work perfectly.

nrehman
03/05/2007, 10:38 PM
Steven,
Am a bit slow, so would you mind spelling out what will be perfect?
The display has inverts and corals. These are going to be moved.
Would you recommend moving live rock, skimmer, etc. in the temporary 72g tank, keeping it barebottom. Then drop the salinity and do the water changes, etc.?
Thanks again for your time.
Houston...

Steven Pro
03/06/2007, 07:14 AM
The W/D bio-wheel filter that has been running on the current 72 gallon display should be well cycled and colonized with beneficial, nitrifying bacteria. This will work very well as a biological filter on the quarantine tank.

Using hyposalinity to treat the marine ich is good too. Just be sure to keep a close eye on pH and alkalinity. both can be problematic in hyposaline conditions. And, I would always have well mixed saltwater on hand at all times ready to perform a water change as necessary depending on water quality tests.

Steven Pro
03/06/2007, 07:15 AM
By the way, are you a member of http://www.wamas.org/ If not, you should consider it. They are a pretty strong club.

nrehman
03/06/2007, 08:45 AM
Steven,

Thanks for the details.

This is a much larger number of fish than I have QT'ed before and I am trying to plan for most contingencies. BTW I did read both of your excellent articles on ich before this thread. Finally, for several obvious reasons, I think it will be benefiicial in the future, to be ich free in the new setup. Thank you for your significant contribution on this topic.

Always have at least 30g aged salt water.
I had not focused on the alk and ph fluctuations.

I am a member of WAMAS! I also do think we have some excellent members. Thanks for the recommendation and complement to the club.

Best,
Nadir

nrehman
03/11/2007, 09:51 PM
Steven,
Hopefully some final questions?
I have in my temp tank a sump with about 40lbs of live rock. Can I use this instead of the wet/dry bio-filter in the sump (keeping in mind that the main tank will be bare-bottom?
Will there be any effect in using live rock in the sump vs. a wet dry filter the sump for curing of the ich issue?
I was planning to use Seachem's Paraguard to begin the treatment of the fish. In your opinion, would it be just as effective to go for hyposalinity and skip the Paraguard?
Thanks in advance.
Nadir

Steven Pro
03/12/2007, 06:17 AM
Don't use the liverock. Most any treatment you employ (copper, or hyposalinity) will destroy it.

If you are going to use hyposalinity, I don't see any point in using anything else.

nrehman
03/12/2007, 07:36 AM
Great. Thanks again.