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JohnL
01/10/2007, 09:20 AM
This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=8943327#post8943327

jmaneyapanda
01/10/2007, 09:20 AM
Skimmers do work in freshwater, they are not as near as effecient, though. Many high end koi dealers will run skimmers with ozone, and it will pull out skimmate. Freshwater does not have the same biochemical properties as saltwater, so the hydrophylic/hydrophobis aspects of the foam is not as strong.

sinkingbeach
03/20/2007, 09:58 PM
I just purchased a new MR1 w/mak4 pump, it's been running for a week now. I'm extremely happy with the amount of skim it's producing. I do have issues though at least my wife does, she 's complaining about the noise from the pump. Unfortunately the pump and skimmer have to be in my cabinet, I considered throwing a old pillow around it but was concerned it would heat up being I think the noise is coming from the fan. I'm sure some of you have been through this and already came up with a solution so let's here it :D

Also while reading the used equipment forum I came across this http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1075953
can someone explain the mod and tell me how to do it.

thanks

tor101898
04/20/2007, 01:14 PM
Can anyone let me know if I'm doing something wrong?

This is the problem,I recently attached a new waste collection canister to my mrc2,the wc4, correct me if i,m wrong, as the liquid fills the canister the balls go up and with the help of air in the canister close off the exit and in effect turn the skimmer off so the skimate does not overflow past a certain level.

This is my understanding,so inorder to test it I filled it half way with water and then let it continue.what happened next was that the skimate came up through the chamber that has the balls and continued working.I emptied the canister and shook it a bit to check on the balls and found that they don't completly cover the exit.Is it possible that I am doing something wrong.

tor101898
04/21/2007, 07:54 PM
anyone.

drstupid
04/21/2007, 09:19 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9527879#post9527879 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sinkingbeach
I just purchased a new MR1 w/mak4 pump, it's been running for a week now. I'm extremely happy with the amount of skim it's producing. I do have issues though at least my wife does, she 's complaining about the noise from the pump. Unfortunately the pump and skimmer have to be in my cabinet, I considered throwing a old pillow around it but was concerned it would heat up being I think the noise is coming from the fan. I'm sure some of you have been through this and already came up with a solution so let's here it :D

Also while reading the used equipment forum I came across this http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1075953
can someone explain the mod and tell me how to do it.

thanks

hey, welcome to the MR1 club! the utube mod basically directs the input up towards the tower so you get fewer bubbles exiting the skimmer. you should definitely do it, i'm sort of surprised andy doesn't sell them configured like this to start with.

i think it's 1 1/4" fittings involved, but don't remember and am disinclined to take things apart right now to figure it out. a tape measure should make it obvious what you need. the slip fitting snugs over the (threaded) bulkhead, no glue.

with my MR1, i used a street 90 (female part goes over the bulkhead, male to the next fitting) and a 45. the best way to describe how to do the mod is: buy those parts and stick them in your skimmer and turn in back on. you'll figure it out pretty quickly. be careful, too; the acrylic edges inside are not sanded, and you can skin your knuckles pretty easily futzing around in there.

i would not use a pillow around the pump, you're asking for a fire. if you don't have anything under the pump, stick some 3/4" pink foam panel insulation (the interlocking tongue and groove stuff you put on housing exteriors under the siding) under everything to stop the vibration from transferring to the base of the cabinet. you could even stick some of that to the cabinet door to help soundproof it. if you use caulk to adhere it, it's easy to clean it off later if you're renting or don't want it stuck there permanently. just squeeze it out like it's liquid nails, and keep some pressure on the panel for a few hours or overnight. if you put it on the sides, you can just cut it to size and wedge it in.

skwirl
04/21/2007, 11:53 PM
that mak 4 is a noisy pump.. a good pump, but noisy as **** get a titanium pump if you want silence, but it will cost you some $$$ and in a 140 about 1 degree in temp increase..
i didnt think you could do the u-tube mod on an mr1.. i though it was too small, but if you can, its a good mod.. dont do it if your not having a bubble problem though.. do you have the new style beckett? if so a t4 will do great on that skimmer..

skwirl
04/21/2007, 11:59 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9774120#post9774120 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tor101898
Can anyone let me know if I'm doing something wrong?

This is the problem,I recently attached a new waste collection canister to my mrc2,the wc4, correct me if i,m wrong, as the liquid fills the canister the balls go up and with the help of air in the canister close off the exit and in effect turn the skimmer off so the skimate does not overflow past a certain level.

This is my understanding,so inorder to test it I filled it half way with water and then let it continue.what happened next was that the skimate came up through the chamber that has the balls and continued working.I emptied the canister and shook it a bit to check on the balls and found that they don't completly cover the exit.Is it possible that I am doing something wrong.

take it apart, and make sure its clean in there, then test it again. im thinking it may not have been full enough.. also there is only one ping pong ball in there. it just slides up when its full... also if its not dirty in there then maybe its too clean.. let some skimmate dry in there.. maybe that will help.. try it both ways.. you need that collector... if it doesnt work after that go to the mrc site, and email andy.. he is super helpful. he will get your problem worked out

BallaBooyeaH
04/23/2007, 05:45 AM
WOW 1000 posts.
I can remember when this thread was just started. Will I owned a MR2 but never got it wet.

Well water has broken and the tank is up. I have the MR-2 with a Iwaki 55rlt. The problem is noise - Misses can not live with it so I need a compermise for the Iwaki. I hear the submersible are the quitest but Which one would be the one to use?
As I am in Europe I wopuld prefer a 240V but can live with 110V if I have to.

Love some input.

Tank is a 90 Gallon.

skwirl
04/23/2007, 06:55 AM
there are no submersible pressure rated pumps.. you need a pressure rated pump to drive the beckett..
if you want silent, the only pump for you is the t-4. it is quieter than a submersible pump anyway...

tor101898
04/23/2007, 08:57 AM
With this Waste collector, I believe andy has added a second ping pong ball, since the one I received has two. Both are glued .I have sent Andy an email about the problem,hopefully he can help me out with this problem.

by the way, I had a problem before and he resolved the situation.

vanillagorila
04/30/2007, 03:33 PM
bump to get the mrc club up with the other skimmer clubs

tor101898
05/10/2007, 12:20 PM
How is the becket cleaned?

drstupid
05/10/2007, 01:32 PM
it comes right out of the housing, i generally just take my aquarium dedicated scrub pad to it. take mental notes how it all goes together again when you take it out, you can figure it out all over again if you have to but it's easier not to. also, i put a couple of wraps of teflon tape around the top and bottom of the becket housing before reinstalling it (prior to putting the o rings back on it), this makes the seal a little better and holds the two halves of the housing together better than the o rings alone.

tor101898
05/12/2007, 09:17 AM
thanks for the info, I was getting air leaking in the becket housing and i figured if it can be cleaned it can be sealed. have you had this problem before,air leaking into the becket housing?

drstupid
05/12/2007, 12:04 PM
yes, water would shoot out the joint in the middle of the housing. it doesn't seem to affect the functioning of the becket. the teflon tape trick tightens everything up, try that.

you inspired me to clean my becket today, it's amazing the difference it makes. i've got to get into a better habit with that.

on a slightly unrelated but still on-topic note: how do you like the calcium reactor? i'm researching them now, and am torn between the MRC and the korallin. did you get the spray bar with it? one chamber or two? what are you using for a CO2 regulator? i'm considering the reeffanatic solenoid, i've got an ATO from them and it's great equipment. what other reactors did you consider?

tor101898
05/12/2007, 05:59 PM
the reactor is great i've never had a problem,at first to dial it in i had a problem because it kept fluctuating,however once i got it dialed in, it stayed at a steady 6.9 with a little tweaking every three days. i considered the marine concept and a geo after all the praise for the MRC I went with the cr5 with the spray bar package.with it i also got the entire package with 5lb cylinder and milwaukee controller.knock on wood no problems.

skwirl
05/12/2007, 06:16 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9927719#post9927719 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tor101898
thanks for the info, I was getting air leaking in the becket housing and i figured if it can be cleaned it can be sealed. have you had this problem before,air leaking into the becket housing?

you must have the old style beckett.. it causes no problem when it leaks air in there, well.. unless you want to completely stop the skimmer from making bubbles for some reason.. it will still let air in when you completely close the air off..
speaking of becketts.. you have the old style.. i will tell you this.. i had the old style beckett, and loved the performance, then i got a new style beckett, and had no idea what i was missing..it seemed like the performance doubled with the same pump... you really should look into getting a new style beclett, i promise you wont be dissappointed.

joncat24
05/12/2007, 07:12 PM
what is the difference in the old and new styles???
how do ya know which you have???

skwirl
05/12/2007, 07:29 PM
the old style has 3/4" input, the new has 1". the housing on the new becketts have 3 thumb screws that seal the beckett housing, and the old ones just slide on the ttop. the newer becketts are the ones they have pics of on the mrc site. they are alot better made as well.. its the same 1/4" cast acrylic as the skimmer body. the beckett itself looks a little different than the old style as well..

joncat24
05/12/2007, 08:11 PM
thanks...I dont really have a mrc. Mine is a home built version of the mr3 which is why I was wondering about the becketts...

tor101898
05/13/2007, 12:43 PM
actually I have the new beckett,I recently purchased the skimmer back in nov.06, I just wanted to see if it is supposed to be air tight or not.

when i remove the beckett housing it is in a cylinder which must be unscrewed, then the beckett removed. the beckett has a seem that i think splits it in two, although i have not done this. I thought that maybe if i pushed it together more, less air would escape into the housing and thus would go into the skimmer body.

drstupid
05/13/2007, 01:58 PM
that's the part you want to wrap in teflon tape, at the top and bottom where the O rings are. it holds the two halves together better. i don't really think it affects the performance of the skimmer much when you do get it tight, but it is aesthetically more pleasing.

while you have it out, take the two halves apart and check out the dongle inside. it sort of looks like a wil-e-coyote lawn dart. this and the inside of the piece that splits in half are the parts that get slimed up and require periodic cleaning. cleaning salt creep etc from the rest of the housing feels good but doesn't seem to affect the performance of the injector at all.

skwirl
05/13/2007, 06:06 PM
yea make sure its clean.. if its dirty in there, you will see a difference when you fire it back up.. what pump are you running on it?

tor101898
05/14/2007, 10:47 AM
I have the pcx 55 pump on it,works good.

I took it out and cleaned it,I'll reseal with tape and get it up again by thursday.thanks for the input.

drstupid, how's the reactor selection going?

drstupid
05/14/2007, 11:11 AM
i'm leaning towards the CR5, probably with the reeffanatic controller. we've got a big al's superstore opening here tomorrow, so i sort of want to go there and check out what they have to offer as well. korallin seems to be the popular choice of the mass market brands. as far as i can tell, there's not a lot of difference technically between the different reactors, quality of construction is really what sets them apart. i love andy's workmanship; i've gotten a skimmer and a sump from him so far, both are really well built and well thought out.

drstupid
05/24/2007, 09:09 PM
we ordered a CR5 today, and can't wait for andy to make it!

if anyone would care to share setup experience, it would be appreciated. i've got a spot set aside for it, but that's just space next to the skimmer.

BallaBooyeaH
05/25/2007, 07:19 AM
Hi all,

I asked a while ago for a link to setting up the MR2.
No replys. I have it sitting there soing nothing. having problems tuning it in.

please help.....

drstupid
05/25/2007, 07:27 AM
i saw one reply, saying you can't use a submersible pump. my sump is in our basement, so i don't care how loud the skimmer gets and have no advice on how to quiet your setup.

have you sent andy mail? he's really very helpful, and knows his equipment.

info@myreefcreations.com

Benny Z
05/25/2007, 10:05 AM
adding pics of my mr-2 skimmer. just "upgraded" it w/ a 2nd injector and riser plumbing last saturday.

just after install...

http://www.bnarc.com/bennyz/images/tankprogress/2becketts.JPG

the next morning...

http://www.bnarc.com/bennyz/images/tankprogress/skimmerday2.jpg

and 4 days later...

http://www.bnarc.com/bennyz/images/tankprogress/skimmercup.jpg

http://www.bnarc.com/bennyz/images/tankprogress/skimmate2.jpg

going to add a 12" extension piece next.

tor101898
05/25/2007, 11:38 AM
bennyz, what exactly does raising the beckett like that do for the skimmer?

RGibson
05/25/2007, 12:16 PM
Alex the becketts will work better if thay are down on the top of the box .

Benny Z
05/25/2007, 12:46 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10013492#post10013492 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tor101898
bennyz, what exactly does raising the beckett like that do for the skimmer?

allows more bubble/water contact time.

tor101898
05/25/2007, 02:14 PM
I see,you know looking at it now it would also be easier to clean the beckett,allowing for easy removal with the union.thanks for the idea.

Scuba Dog
06/07/2007, 03:17 AM
I have been running a MRC4 recirculation skimmer for a few months now. A mag 12 is the feed pump and a blue line 70 is the recirculation pump. I havent decided what the best setting is yet for wet skimming. Is it the water level in the skimmer? Or would it be the air flow through the foam nozzels? In other words how do you fine tune it for wet skimming?

Benny Z
06/07/2007, 07:34 AM
water height typically determines the general "wetness", then you use the air intake valves to fine tune it.

once you get the water height where you want it you shouldn't ever have to fiddle w/ the water output gate valve again.

SDguy
06/12/2007, 09:40 PM
Quick question. One of my becketts is rattling. It is perfectly clean. It seems that the internal bulbous arrow thing is hitting the outer black casing, causing a horribly annoying yet it seems functionally irrelevant rattling noise. It's been a couple days now. Has anyone experienced this? And is there a solution to the problem? Of note, when I close the air valve on that beckett completely, the rattling stops.

skwirl
06/12/2007, 09:49 PM
sounds like your arrow thingy inside the beckett is upside down, or not in right.

SDguy
06/12/2007, 09:56 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10131438#post10131438 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by skwirl
sounds like your arrow thingy inside the beckett is upside down, or not in right.

There aren't too many ways you can put it...

Benny Z
06/12/2007, 10:34 PM
put a dab of superglue on one of the flat parts of the arrow. just glue one side so you can still take the housing apart to clean it.

skwirl
06/12/2007, 10:43 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10131495#post10131495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
There aren't too many ways you can put it...

gotta agree there...

SDguy
06/12/2007, 10:54 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10131752#post10131752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Benny Z
put a dab of superglue on one of the flat parts of the arrow. just glue one side so you can still take the housing apart to clean it.

It doesn't have to be movable within the housing to function properly?

skwirl
06/12/2007, 11:31 PM
no

SDguy
06/12/2007, 11:42 PM
Huh, well, learn somthing new every day. Thanks guys.

drstupid
06/13/2007, 10:11 AM
where should i setup my CR-5 relative to the sump? i had planned on putting it next to my skimmer, which is above the water line so it can drain over the edge of the sump. but as i started laying things out last night, it came to me that if the maxijet supplying the reactor were to stop, the reactor would probably drain all its water out of that line and into the sump. this seems like it could be a bad idea. should it sit next to the sump?

Kiel'thalin
06/13/2007, 11:37 AM
Here is the instructions from way back, might be useful for others that come across the problem without having to search for it:

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10131876#post10131876 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ereefic
Memo, here are some pics to help you out.

1st Pic - Beckett is inside of this housing. Back out the 3 thumbscrews a little and then twist and pull out the injector. Then remove the injector from the top of the housing, should just slide out.

2nd Pic - Beckett injector (may be black or grey). There may be a couple of o-rings around the bottom of the injector, you'll need to slide those off before you can pull it apart.

3rd Pic - Injector opened up.

4th Pic - Inside piece of the injector.

You'll notice that the pieces on the opposite sides are notched out and the other 2 sides are not on the inside injector piece. The nothced sides go into the notches on both halves of the injector. You'll want to glue the middle piece to ONE SIDE ONLY. Basically so it looks like pic 3. Be very careful glueing to make sure it doesn't run and glue the 2 halves together. I'd let the glue dry for a good while and clean up any stray glue.

Pic 1
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/18861IJ1.JPG

Pic 2
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/18861IJ2.JPG

Pic 3
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/18861IJ3.JPG

Pic 4
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/18861IJ4.JPG

SDguy
06/13/2007, 11:56 AM
Thanks for the info. Just to be clear, you are saying to glue the non-notched arrow piece, that is perpendicular to the housing, onto the housing, correct? We are not glueing the "ball end" of the internal piece to anything, correct?

Kiel'thalin
06/13/2007, 01:01 PM
I knew I seen it somewhere else, here is another quote to specifically show where the glue has to go:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10134377#post10134377 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by steve68
open up the beckett
http://www.steve68.com/4-9-06-0.jpg
put superglue on to the 2 ends of this piece but only on one side
http://www.steve68.com/4-9-06-.jpg
& glue to one side this way u will be able to take the other 1/2 off when u clean,
the ones i have are not glue i just have never had that problem,
if u dont have the 2 ends on the slot where they drop in it will make noise.
http://www.steve68.com/4-9-06-1.jpg

we where due for pictures on how to glue & yes i was bored

Scuba Dog
06/13/2007, 01:36 PM
I had the same problem, and glued down the little arrow section, works like a charm, no more ratteling noise.

Scuba Dog
06/13/2007, 01:36 PM
I had the same problem, and glued down the little arrow section, works like a charm, no more ratteling noise.

SDguy
06/13/2007, 03:42 PM
Oh, ok, now I see. Let's call it a peg and slot system for clarification. The inner "arrow" part of the beckett sits in the housing with the two pegs sitting in the slots. You are saying to glue these pegs into the slots on only one side of the housing. Do I finally have this correct? :)

Benny Z
06/13/2007, 05:35 PM
congratulations. 11 posts later and you finally have it. :hammer:

as an act of gratitude you may now send us your bartletts and a frag of each of your acros. :)

SDguy
06/13/2007, 08:25 PM
LOL, well with terms like "thingy", "flat piece", and "arrow" bouncing around, let's just say it wasn't the clearest instruction manual :D

drstupid
06/14/2007, 07:52 AM
bump on the CR-5 setup. i know there are a few users out there, if anyone could help me out with placement relative to the water line in the sump, i'd appreciate it.

drstupid
06/20/2007, 07:01 PM
so i'm having a hard time getting my CR-5 tuned in. just fired it up sunday night, the first night it kept the system PH so low the CO2 was off most the time (i have the AC3 turning CO2 off at 7.8 and on again at 7.9). the bubble counter filled up with water, either from the CO2 being off or not having it sealed well enough, i rinsed it out and put fresh teflon tape on it and it's been fine since. i put a fresh batch of kalk in on monday morning (i use it for topoff) to get the PH up where the CO2 will stay on, now the effluent PH won't get above 6.3.

the GENX CO2 regulator that came with it is really tough to get tuned. it's either a bubble every three seconds or a bubble every ten seconds, with only about 1/32" difference in the knob between them. anyone know if this can be adjusted so there's a more useful range of use? even at a bubble every ten seconds my effluent PH doesn't go up much over 24 hours later. i'm measuring it by moving my main system's PH probe into effluent collected in a shot glass. am i having a calibration problem thanks to the rapid change in PH? should i get another probe and figure out a way to independently measure the effluent with it?

i have a maxijet 1200 feeding the reactor, and am having a hard time getting the effluent drip rate tuned as well. it's either 60 drops a minute, a constant flow, or 20 drops a minute. once again, this seems totally overpowered. should i go to a different pump? like a litermeter?

my alk was at 11dkh last night, which is up 1 dkh from where it was when i fired it up. right now i have the CO2 off until i can figure out how to adjust it properly.

RGibson
06/21/2007, 05:06 AM
you need to give andy a call at mrc.

drstupid
06/21/2007, 06:41 AM
i sent him mail a couple of days ago, and have not gotten a response. i'll try giving him a call from work today.

the genx regulator and maxijet-1200 are part of his "standard" setup, so i figured someone else out here may have gone through the same routine.

tor101898
06/21/2007, 08:20 AM
drstupid,
lets see if i can help you out by telling what i did since i've moved things around in the area where the cr5 is located.

make sure everything is attached correctly.I filled the bubble counter less then half way with water because it had the tendency to fill,have not had that problem since.make sure you have the c02 tank opened all the way, then adjust the regulator to its correct pressure. then open your bubble counter to just a few bubbles/second approx. 1/sec or 1 every 2- 3 seconds. then open your efluent drip to about the same rate.then let this stabilize ,since it will change because of pressure,for about 24 hours. once it has stabilized it will have a better drip rate in the bubble counter and the efluent drip.

by the way having air inside the calcium chamber can sometimes affect these drip rates,get rid of the air by turning off the c02 and opening up the efluent drip all the way so the water pushes the air out. once that is done you should do the above.

my ph controller is set to 7.5 and 8.2 my efluent drip is between 7.6 and 7.9 for PH, with a bubble count of 1 per 2 sec. hope this helps. by the way do you have the spraybar modification?

drstupid
06/21/2007, 08:40 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10184230#post10184230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tor101898

make sure you have the c02 tank opened all the way, then adjust the regulator to its correct pressure.


hi alex, thanks for the response!

this is the part i think i'm missing; the genx regulator doesn't have an obvious pressure adjustment, no instructions (not even in chinese!), and is running around 25-30 PSI. where do you keep yours, around 10 PSI? it's probably affecting the overall pressure in the system, as well. maybe i need to get a different regulator.


my ph controller is set to 7.5 and 8.2 my efluent drip is between 7.6 and 7.9 for PH, with a bubble count of 1 per 2 sec. hope this helps. by the way do you have the spraybar modification?


let me make sure i understand: is your controller on the system, and shutting off CO2 at 7.5 ph and what, kalk addition at 8.2 ph? or is your controller on the effluent, and shutting off CO2 and 7.5 ph and and turning it on at 8.2 ph?

i do have the spray bar mod. how high in the chamber above the sponge pad do you fill your media? the holes in the spray bar go all the way to the top, i'm probably 85%-90% full, so the top holes are not covered. do you need to cover them all to get the dispersion to work correctly through the rest of the media?

also, i'm curious about your experience changing your media. it was tough to fill the reactor without making an ungodly mess, i'm not looking forward to trying to empty it. it does not seem like a good idea to move the reactor when its full.

thanks!

pete

tor101898
06/21/2007, 10:58 AM
pete,

My regulator is at 10 psi although, andy recommended 8psi.

My controller turns c02 off at 7.5ph it has never gone above 8.0ph.my controller sensor is in an effluent collector just above the sump,it collects just a small amount of effluent to get a reading,while at the same time dripping into the sump.so it has a constant reading. I clean off the probe every month or so to keep it calibrated.

As for the media in the chamber, when i received the reactor I had the same problem so I added another union, so that taking the flange off would not be a problem. If you pm me your email I will send you a pic. at present I was redoing the area where the reactor was, so the reactor was and is off line at the moment. I only filled the media chamber 3/4 of the way and never had a problem with the spray bar holes. it should be fine,with only the occassional grain of media going in, not a problem.

jjmatti
07/02/2007, 02:07 PM
does anyone have pictures of thier MRC skimmer setup inside a cabinet under a tank??
I need to see some possible set-up ideas that work..

Thanks,
Jason

hurleycr
07/07/2007, 09:34 AM
I'm looking for information here. I plan on ordering a new skimmer and am exploring the options of a beckett. I've never been a fan of NW's. Granted I did undersize both that I had at the time. I've owned two Aqua C's and I actually like them but the tank out grew them quickly.

So this time i've changed my system around big time, and have learned quite a lot in the past two months. So I'm going to describe what I'm looking for and at for a skimmer and anyone with the experience to help me please do so.

My newly upgraded system is going to be SPS dominated with a huge bioload. I'm talking around fish, mostly small anthia's, chromi's, and the like. With the exception of two to three tangs.

I just upgraded to a 220 gallon system, which will have around a 60 gallon sump. It will be BB and a massive amount of flow by the time i'm done. I want to feed the skimmer via the overflow's, which means I may have to talk to andy about this. The return from the skimmer will be underwater however from what I have read their will be no surging effect because that chamber will be built to have the same water level at all times.

I'm looking to turn over around 800-1000gph through the skimmer I think. I have no technical data to back that up yet. I'm looking to power the skimmer by the most effcient Sequence pump or BL pump I can find. Whatever has the least amount of watts to power the skimmer.

The skimmer I'm looking at will be the MR-4R or the MR-3R Dual R. The latter is the one I really want just because it looks freakin cool, and I like nice things.

I know the latter (MR3-RDual R) is more than overkill but I really want this skimmer to process as much tank water as freaking possible because I will be extremlly over feeding this tank. I will be counting on the skimmer to really rip the nutrients out of the water. I also want it to be able to handle a larger system years down the road.

I know everyone says becketts are loud, and waste power. Uhm... OK that's fine. However I need to know exactly how loud are they. What is loud about them, the pump? air intake? return? mysterious gurgling?

What can you compare that sound to so that I have an idea of how loud it is. I've heard people say this is too loud and when I hear it, well its more than acceptable.

Any help, does anyone actually own that monster skimmer?

hurleycr
07/07/2007, 09:36 AM
Wow that was longer than what I had planned sorry.

hurleycr
07/09/2007, 06:37 AM
anybody?

drstupid
07/09/2007, 08:25 AM
you're going to be powering that skimmer with one massive pump, that's loud. and you'll have another pump on the recirc loop. the beckett itself isn't terribly loud, i'm used to the sound i guess. my friend's euroreef is so quiet you don't even know it's running.

i don't know how well it will work with the return going underwater, that adversely affects my wee little MR-1. my return's on a 90 fitting halfway submerged, when something happens to raise the sump level (i.e. durso air intakes clog with salt and drains surge) my skimmer does not function well at all. it may be that the change in pressure on the return is what's causing the problem, and not the fact that it's above the water line.

jjmatti
07/09/2007, 08:49 AM
What is the best pump out there to run a MR-2 skimmer?
I am currently running a PCX-55 and I am looking to upgrade to something new (Mainly to decrease the noise)
1) Quiter, 2) Increase production 3) More energy Effecient.

Ninja120
07/09/2007, 03:49 PM
How do you get the MR2 skimmer tuned in? Everytime I think I got it, it either over flows or the bubble are too low. I am running an Iwaki 55 pump on it. How low should the bubbles be? Is there certain setup I should take to get it tuned in? I took out the cotton should I use it?

Rouselb
07/10/2007, 05:52 PM
I am looking to install a MR-2R skimmer. I would like to feed it directly from my main tank, which is located upstairs. I have a 80 gal refug, thats feed by (3) 1" pvc pipes. One of these is a siphon pipe, i was thinking of using this one and Teeing it off. MRC believes i might have potential issues with larger bubbles in the unit, is anyone running this kind of setup? Please advise. Thanks.

drstupid
07/10/2007, 06:59 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10304499#post10304499 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ninja120
How do you get the MR2 skimmer tuned in? Everytime I think I got it, it either over flows or the bubble are too low. I am running an Iwaki 55 pump on it. How low should the bubbles be? Is there certain setup I should take to get it tuned in? I took out the cotton should I use it?

it takes a while for the skimmer to get broken in and for you to figure out how to work it. i hate to say read this thread, but "read this thread". there's a lot of good information in it. andy is very helpful at MRC, you can send him mail and he will respond.

whenever i fire up my skimmer after cleaning it, i have the air valve turned off all the way. i have the water level set just below the becket, imagine the dongle thing inside floating in the air, below that. after the water level settles in and i know the water output valve doesn't need adjustment, i turn on the air, a half turn. wait a while (like 15 minutes), then another half turn. for my system it typically starts making a useful foam around a turn and a half to a turn and three quarters. when the skimmer is clean and the sludge tube is not blocked, there's about 1/2 turn of air adjustment i can make after it starts making useful foam.

starting off with no air after each cleaning, getting the water level stable just below the injector, and slowly turning the air up was the advice from this thread that helped me the most.

this is just my experience. there is a lot more captured in this thread, you need to figure out how your skimmer is going to work on your system with your maintenance routines, physical setup, pump, sludge collection system, etc. you also need to learn how it reacts to things like feeding your fish, putting your hands in the tank, stirring up the sand, using epoxy.

i use the cotton, and put a fresh ball in each week when i clean the skimmer.

uhuru
07/10/2007, 07:53 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10290104#post10290104 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hurleycr
I'm looking for information here. I plan on ordering a new skimmer and am exploring the options of a beckett. I've never been a fan of NW's. Granted I did undersize both that I had at the time. I've owned two Aqua C's and I actually like them but the tank out grew them quickly.

So this time i've changed my system around big time, and have learned quite a lot in the past two months. So I'm going to describe what I'm looking for and at for a skimmer and anyone with the experience to help me please do so.

My newly upgraded system is going to be SPS dominated with a huge bioload. I'm talking around fish, mostly small anthia's, chromi's, and the like. With the exception of two to three tangs.

I just upgraded to a 220 gallon system, which will have around a 60 gallon sump. It will be BB and a massive amount of flow by the time i'm done. I want to feed the skimmer via the overflow's, which means I may have to talk to andy about this. The return from the skimmer will be underwater however from what I have read their will be no surging effect because that chamber will be built to have the same water level at all times.

I'm looking to turn over around 800-1000gph through the skimmer I think. I have no technical data to back that up yet. I'm looking to power the skimmer by the most effcient Sequence pump or BL pump I can find. Whatever has the least amount of watts to power the skimmer.

The skimmer I'm looking at will be the MR-4R or the MR-3R Dual R. The latter is the one I really want just because it looks freakin cool, and I like nice things.

I know the latter (MR3-RDual R) is more than overkill but I really want this skimmer to process as much tank water as freaking possible because I will be extremlly over feeding this tank. I will be counting on the skimmer to really rip the nutrients out of the water. I also want it to be able to handle a larger system years down the road.

I know everyone says becketts are loud, and waste power. Uhm... OK that's fine. However I need to know exactly how loud are they. What is loud about them, the pump? air intake? return? mysterious gurgling?

What can you compare that sound to so that I have an idea of how loud it is. I've heard people say this is too loud and when I hear it, well its more than acceptable.

Any help, does anyone actually own that monster skimmer?

I talked to Andy @ MRC about this today and he actually recommended the MR3R (not the dual R) on a 100g system because I wanted to set it up the same way as you (also BB system overflow going directly into skimmer). He said ideally yes you would want all of the overflow going directly to the skimmer but most likely you will have issues with larger bubbles because your overflow isn't going to flow as consistently as a pressure pump, and it can suck in more air. Your return pump from your sump would have to be tuned perfectly to your skimmer to make it work. You are better off teeing off the overflow and only feeding 2-3x's the volume/hr into the skimmer. He is running an MR3R on a 120g tank and says he likes the performance more than the MR2R on that tank.

Rouselb
07/10/2007, 08:19 PM
Im sure that the extra 6 inches of column height give more contact time, and therefore is capable of skimming more. Do you need more capacity for a 120g tank @ an extra $90? I was under the impression that you could add to the height of the second chamber at any time to get added skimming. I would like to Tee off one of my lines and try running the MR2R on that supply line. One of my supply lines to my refug is pulling water from under the water surface. If it creates to much turbulence in the skimmer, i will use a pressure pump to supply. I have a mag 24 pump just laying around, and i was thinking about using that for the recirculating pump.

hurleycr
07/11/2007, 10:18 PM
Yes on a 120 or so this will be for 210 with 50 gallon sump. If I could run the overflows to feed the skimmer I will only have one pump. I already run a Sequence Hammerhead and two other sequence 750's 4300's they really are not that loud at all. IF the beckett is quiter than the pumps then I'm golden.

I don't see how you are getting a surge from your overflows. Mine has always been quite consitent as far as I can tell.

Why do you think I would need to run two pumps?

The becketts would function from the sequence pump not the overflows. So the pressure rated pump would be running the becketts. The overflow would just be feeding it water. I'm thinking that I would be able to process the full amount of overflow water with no restriction from the gate valve and be able to tune the skimmer using the air valve. This is what I did whne I ran the aqua C's. Never had an issue with them.

Rouselb
07/13/2007, 02:35 PM
I ordered the MR-2R. Im going to attempt to do just that, supply it with one of my overflows. Lets hope it works, i would hate to run another pump!

john37
07/18/2007, 10:31 AM
Anyone using the commercial size skimmers?
just wondering how good they are, they're very very cheap for the amount of gallons they are rated for. Then MR-C8496 is rated for 8500gal. and is only $2000.

any info or experience w/these?

hurleycr
07/29/2007, 11:36 AM
what happened to all the guru's that use to be on this thread?

Ok if I go with the beckett my electrical cost would be around 12.00 per month to run it. So i'm willing to do that. However, I'm still looking for some answers.

Andy said that the Dual Stack is def. the way I want to go due to the amount of water i'm wanting to run through it.

However he said not to Feed both overflows entirely through it, due to air getting into the skimmer and making larger bubbles. So how do you plumb them then using gravity. I must eliminate the feed pump, and do not want to cut into the supply line. I want it to see the dirtiest water possible.

So any comments on the return going into the sump underwater, for as long as that return compartment in sump has a constant level of water in it?

orangekush4
07/29/2007, 01:08 PM
They are cheap, but don't come with a pump.

Rouselb
07/29/2007, 02:14 PM
I Took one of my over flow returns and shortened it up, so this return is full of water and very minimal air. Then I put a Tee right before the skimmer. When you install the Tee, make sure the center leg is the one going to the sump. You want the water from your overflow to pass through the Tee as if there was no Tee.

WeeJ
07/31/2007, 02:46 AM
Hi All - Looking for MR-2 (Dual Injectors) pictures setups if possible.
Also do you have to use separate pumps or the same one will do fine ?

Iammatt219
08/03/2007, 10:27 PM
which of these pumps would you suggest

A velocity T4, A gen-x pcx-30, or a panworld 100px-x

for a dual becket Mr-2 on a 125 gallon tank with 2 overflows. ( which i will likely use the gen-x for as it is the lowest flow)

TIA

SDguy
09/07/2007, 07:31 AM
A couple quick questions:

1. Is there a way to search this big ol' thread for what I need before asking?

2. If not, can people show me how they have ozone hooked up to their MRC skimmer? I just got a GenX ozonizer and the ozone port from Andy at MRC. Also, I'd like to see how you run the air exhaust from the waste collector through carbon, as well as the water outlet through carbon. My skimmer sits level with my sump, so I think I'm going to have to run the water up through carbon? But ideas/pictures would be great. Thanks.

SDguy
09/07/2007, 07:35 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10450217#post10450217 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WeeJ
Hi All - Looking for MR-2 (Dual Injectors) pictures setups if possible.
Also do you have to use separate pumps or the same one will do fine ?

I use a genX pcx55. It is what Andy recommends. I have read on this thread that the genX pcx70 works better for dual injectors, but I don't think I would go that high unless I added a riser to the skimmer. Mine is the stock MRC2 height.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/SDreefguy/Equipment/MRC2skimmerworking.jpg

RGibson
09/07/2007, 08:46 AM
SDguy you skimmer will work much if the line from the pump were put in the center of the becketts,it gives ballance water flow and higher skimmer output

SDguy
09/07/2007, 09:01 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10715260#post10715260 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RGibson
SDguy you skimmer will work much if the line from the pump were put in the center of the becketts,it gives ballance water flow and higher skimmer output

Yeah, I've just been too lazy to change it :)

I understand that it would make the pressure in the two becketts equal. But I'm not seeing how this will increase skimmer output (you mean skimmate?)?

RGibson
09/07/2007, 09:18 AM
more skimmate, the way you have the becketts now ,one beckett is low on water flow and makes less skimmate

SDguy
09/07/2007, 09:49 AM
Now it's coming back to me...IIRC when I was plumbing it, the plumbing wouldn't fit the way you are suggesting. I think the beckett's are too close together. What combination of fittings did you use? An upsidedown T with two elbows ends up being too wide, IIRC.

RGibson
09/07/2007, 09:57 AM
cut down the two ells and the T will fit.

SDguy
09/07/2007, 10:50 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10715747#post10715747 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RGibson
cut down the two ells and the T will fit.

So basically cut off one leg of the elbow? As I recall, it was a significant portion that needs to be removed. Would this not interfere with gluing it into the T then with a short section of pipe?

...and actually, thinking about it more (at work, oops :) ) I'm not quite understanding the performance problem here. I get what you are saying, the second beckett has less pressure. But if I split them equally, the second beckett will indeed get more, but won't the first lose some? Net being equal? Thanks for the help.

RGibson
09/07/2007, 12:47 PM
you can used a street ells and take some off the tee

jgsensor
09/07/2007, 07:03 PM
I came off the becketts with a 45 into a 90 into a tee for mine. It takes up a little more space and adds a little for friction, but it works.

I don't have any pictures of it at the moment, I went back to a single beckett at the monent. My Gen-X 70 fan and housing decided to grenade on me so I switched back to a single with a Gen-X 55.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement fan and housing? I emailed Pacific Coast, twice now with no response. Nice customer service, I won't be buying their pumps again.

SDguy
09/08/2007, 10:58 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10716105#post10716105 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
...and actually, thinking about it more (at work, oops :) ) I'm not quite understanding the performance problem here. I get what you are saying, the second beckett has less pressure. But if I split them equally, the second beckett will indeed get more, but won't the first lose some? Net being equal? Thanks for the help.

Does no one have an opinion on this?

jmaneyapanda
09/08/2007, 11:09 AM
I believe you are correct. Furthermore, plumbing it the way mention will cause an immediate drop in head pressure as all the water will need to make a 90 degree turn. Plumbing it as you did is the correct way to make a T.

Regarding the ozone, you'll just need to retrofit the overflow valve on the waste collector. Either get some plastic window screen and cut a circle the size of the valve, or put some carbon in a littl;e media bag. Either way, it will force the air through the carbon on the way out.

SDguy
09/08/2007, 11:14 AM
Thanks....what about running the exit water through carbon. Since my skimmer is level with my sump, I'm thinking inside the sump to add an elbow pointing up, then laying large bag of carbon over that. But how much back pressure will that cause?

jmaneyapanda
09/08/2007, 04:06 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10722984#post10722984 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
Thanks....what about running the exit water through carbon. Since my skimmer is level with my sump, I'm thinking inside the sump to add an elbow pointing up, then laying large bag of carbon over that. But how much back pressure will that cause?

That is exactly what I do. I just bought a street ell, and dry fity it inmto the bulkhead pointing up. Then, at the top, I have a reducing fitting to make rather a "bowl". Here is where I lay a bag of carbon. Make no mistakes, it will create backpressure (my gate valve is wide open, and the water level is still a little higher in the skimmer than what I would like), but it forces me to skim a little wetter, so no harm, no foul.

For what it's worth, I know many people who do not run the effluent water through any carbon, as most of the ozone is degassed i the skimmer (so they claim). I am not willing to take that chance, though.

SDguy
09/08/2007, 04:17 PM
Yeah, I have a small sump...skimmer bubbles quickly enter the tank if I'm not careful, so I will definitely be running the water through carbon. Hopefully it'll cut down on microbubbles too :)

Thanks for the info/help.

IRISSERVICE
09/11/2007, 04:35 PM
tagging along :)

SDguy
09/27/2007, 03:49 PM
OK, I got the ozone port from Andy. It's basically a T with a JG fitting on one part. Now, do I remove the air valve silencer, screw the T onto that, then attach the O3 input onto the JG fitting, and the silencer onto the third opening on the T? Or, does the T go first, with the O3 input in the JG port, and the needle valve on the third opening on the T?

I am assuming the beckett provides enough suction to not need an airpump on the ozone unit?

Evolley1
10/30/2007, 11:41 PM
Is there such a thing as having too much of a skimmer for your current tank. My total volume is 200 gal. and I am running MR-3R with a Iwaki 55rlt. I just transfered my old 120 into my current setup over the summer. Since transfering I did loose quite a bit of corals and such. My load is just not as big as before but I am wondering whether my MR-3R is doing me justice. The tank is nice and clean and I do run filter socks...does this just mean I need to be patient and wait for the skimmer? I've seen others run their water line just above the box...heck I am just above the spears union to get it to skim. One thing I have wondered about in regards to the recirc models is how the 90's in the box are faced? Is there a rhyme and reason for positioning these things a different way. For instance, my 2 beckett 90's in the box are at a 45 degree angle facing the middle of the box while the recirc 90 is positioned directly in the middle of the two. Is this correct?

RGibson
11/01/2007, 05:05 AM
what feed pump are you using ?

Evolley1
11/01/2007, 10:25 AM
A velocity T3...which seems to cease up on me a lot now. At least with that pump it is external and I have been able to make adjustments to the flow via a true union. I have been tinkering around lateley and have found that if I rev the feed pump down to about half the output and keep the Iwaki at full throttle I am getting better results. I also reconfigured the output for the Iwaki using 1" spa hose and only 1 45 degree elbow. This has substantually increased the flow for the becketts. Who knows I may upgrade to an Iwaki 70 if I still am looking for more performance. If the feed pump keeps on ceasing I will be forced to use a mag 7 in sump but I will have to somehow add a ball valve or true union in order to throttle it down a bit.

RGibson
11/01/2007, 11:51 AM
The Iwaki 55 is the wright size pump if you can change out the 90 degree elbows used on that skimmer.

Evolley1
11/01/2007, 11:58 AM
I only have one 90 for input of the pump coming from the skimer box to the pump. I also oversized the 90 using 1.5 PVC and then using 1" reducers on both sides. For my return portion of the pump I am using spa hose and one 45 degree angle to the input of the dual beckett. The spa hose and the 45 was the latest revision...and it has payed off greatly to the performance of the pump.

My orginal question was the alightment of the 90's inside the box for both becketts and the feed pump. Is there a rhyme and a reason for the positions of these 90's. Essentially they are all pointing to the middle of the box right now.

BrokeColoReefer
11/01/2007, 12:10 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10714932#post10714932 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
A couple quick questions:

1. Is there a way to search this big ol' thread for what I need before asking?

2. If not, can people show me how they have ozone hooked up to their MRC skimmer? I just got a GenX ozonizer and the ozone port from Andy at MRC. Also, I'd like to see how you run the air exhaust from the waste collector through carbon, as well as the water outlet through carbon. My skimmer sits level with my sump, so I think I'm going to have to run the water up through carbon? But ideas/pictures would be great. Thanks.

I dont run any carbon :eek1:
two reasons for this in my situation,
1) i cant smell any ozone coming out of my reactor ( i low dose with 50 mg)
2) the output of the skimmers beats up and crushes the carbon.

With that, i take risks. Im sure my skimmer is blowing off any excess ozone that might enter the tank. This has been setup like this for about 6 months.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a168/BrokeColoReefer/IMG_0385.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a168/BrokeColoReefer/IMG_0386.jpg

SDguy
11/01/2007, 02:11 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11096392#post11096392 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BrokeColoReefer
I dont run any carbon :eek1:
two reasons for this in my situation,
1) i cant smell any ozone coming out of my reactor ( i low dose with 50 mg)
2) the output of the skimmers beats up and crushes the carbon.

With that, i take risks. Im sure my skimmer is blowing off any excess ozone that might enter the tank. This has been setup like this for about 6 months.

Actually, mine's been running for a bit now. And all I have to say is, ditto, ditto, ditto, and ditto.

:thumbsup:

BrokeColoReefer
11/01/2007, 02:18 PM
Awesome! glad thats working for you. Why do you suppose we dont smell any ozone coming out?
and your tank looks awesome BTW

SDguy
11/01/2007, 02:24 PM
Thanks! Yours gives me equipment room envy :)

I'm not sure about the ozone. I remember back in the 80's/90's at the LFS that used ozone, the entire reef tank area reeked of the stuff as soon as you opened the cabinet door, so they were clearly overdosing? Or the skimmer was poorly designed for the application of ozone? Not sure. I know my ozonizer was bought used, so I can't be sure how close to the 250mg/hr rating it is actually working at, but it's on A LOT, and still no ozone smell.... I definitely smell it if I remove the carbon from the waste collection vent though!

BTW, have you noticed stinkier skimmate. I mean, since I hooked this puppy up, my whole living room smells!! :eek2:

BrokeColoReefer
11/01/2007, 02:38 PM
the last time i ran ozone was through a ASM g-4x. The skimmate was always white and bleached looking, and my house smelled like ozone.. For some reason, i am having the same experence as you, my skimmate is darker and smells so bad that its not a fun chore to dump the bucket. But, i only run a 50 mg unit..

I will trade my room for your tank :) looks like we have just about the same equipment anyway.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a168/BrokeColoReefer/IMG_0388.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a168/BrokeColoReefer/IMG_0387.jpg

the barrel on the top is my DIY kalk reactor, the three barrles below are part of the continues water exchange system. The exchange system will be set up for the first time today. I hope the combination of the MRC skimmer, the Ozone, the fuge, and the waterchanges i will get similar results as some of the pros. Equipement can only take you so far, you have to have a salty thumb to get the results your are getting ;)

SDguy
11/01/2007, 03:03 PM
Hmmm, perhaps the turbulence in the beckett skimmer is the reason?

BrokeColoReefer
11/01/2007, 03:40 PM
Could be. I love that damn skimmer.

simion3
11/06/2007, 05:59 PM
I'm having problems with my skimmer. I redid my sump configuration so I had to redo the plumbing on my skimmer. After the gate valve is:
1.5" male threaded x female slip adapter -> 4" of 1.5" PVC -> 1.5" tee -> 1.5" PVC down to the sump. The output is submerged but the foam in my skimmer keeps rising then falling and I think theres a siphon happening but I dunno why. The output is also submerged about 2 - 3" under the water. Any suggestions? Also I have had it running for two days now and the foam is nowhere near the collection cup. I run the water level at a little over 3". I never had any problems when I had it setup before but the output was slightly different.

anothermineral
11/17/2007, 02:03 PM
Hello all,

Just purchased a used MR2 and have a question regarding the input into the injector. I notice that many folks have different arrangements (tees, 90s, unions, etc...). Should that connection, whatever it is, be glued into the flange or should you be able to remove it?

Thanks!

newsalt
11/24/2007, 09:18 AM
Can I join the club? I just got an MRC MR2 skimmer. Check it out here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvj9aAJL-7s

I have a question already:

This morning, I cleaned the collection cup on the new MRC skimmer for the fisrt time. To clean it, I unplugged the pump, took off the cover and wiped the inside of the cup as well as the riser tube. When I plugged the pump back on, the bubbles climbed really fast up the riser tube. I had to to back the valve on my pump to keep anything from spilling into the collection cup. I didn't want to open the gate valve on the outlet of the skimmer since that seems to be in the correct spot when the skimmer is operating properly.

Is this normal after cleaning the cup and neck?

Thanks

drstupid
11/24/2007, 10:01 AM
i usually turn the air input all the way off after cleaning until the water level stabilizes, then bring it back up to where it was.

SDguy
11/24/2007, 10:50 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11202336#post11202336 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by anothermineral
Hello all,

Just purchased a used MR2 and have a question regarding the input into the injector. I notice that many folks have different arrangements (tees, 90s, unions, etc...). Should that connection, whatever it is, be glued into the flange or should you be able to remove it?

Thanks!

IIRC, it's a slip connection, so you're gonna have to glue it. I just glued unions right onto them, so I can disconnect the piping from them.

newsalt
11/24/2007, 10:53 AM
Thanks. I've got a question for you. When the air is all the way off, how high up the main column should the water level be?

SDguy
11/24/2007, 11:11 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11244736#post11244736 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newsalt
Thanks. I've got a question for you. When the air is all the way off, how high up the main column should the water level be?



http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=10313782#post10313782

drstupid
11/24/2007, 11:17 AM
i have mine just under where the bottom of the beckett is, if you imagine it suspended in space. the MR-2 has larger diameter risers than mine, so it may be different for you. i try to keep it so i can skim as wet as possible without experiencing overflow episodes.

SDguy
11/24/2007, 02:27 PM
Hehe...my link was to a post you already made drstupid :D

newsalt
11/25/2007, 10:12 AM
Does this look normal? This is a shot of the beckett injector. That's water shooting out of the holes in the side of the injector.


http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/583/49381Picture_005-med.jpg

SDguy
11/25/2007, 10:35 AM
Yup, sometimes mine does that, sometimes not. Doesn't appear to make a difference.

newsalt
11/25/2007, 10:41 AM
OK. That's two to one. I showed that photo to two members of my Reef club. One said it's normal, the other said it wasn't. Now you say it's ok as well, so I guess I'll leave it alone. I was prepaired to call MRC tomorrow and see what they say.

Thanks SDguy.

RGibson
11/25/2007, 11:36 AM
newsalt what pump do you have on the skimmer?

drstupid
11/25/2007, 11:46 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11250026#post11250026 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newsalt
Does this look normal? This is a shot of the beckett injector. That's water shooting out of the holes in the side of the injector.


http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/583/49381Picture_005-med.jpg

if you put a couple of wraps of teflon tape on the top and bottom of the injector, where the rubber bands are holding the casing together, it should stop that. it also helps stop the beckett from rattling, something else that will happen occasionally.

i've stopped doing the tape trick over time, none of the problems it solves have anything to do with the proper functioning of the skimmer, and i find that i'm more likely to clean the injector when it's easier to do the maintenance.

anothermineral
11/25/2007, 12:55 PM
SDguy et al,

Just to be clear about the 90 slip going into the injector, in Newsalt's picture, the 90 slip/fpt fitting is glued into the black injector flange?

Thanks

newsalt
11/25/2007, 01:18 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11250435#post11250435 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RGibson
newsalt what pump do you have on the skimmer?

I have a Reeflo Marlin. I specifically asked the new owner of MRC if that was ok and he said it was. Hope it's not too powerful.

SDguy
11/25/2007, 02:01 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11250898#post11250898 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by anothermineral
SDguy et al,

Just to be clear about the 90 slip going into the injector, in Newsalt's picture, the 90 slip/fpt fitting is glued into the black injector flange?

Thanks

Yes the grey schedule 80 elbow is glued to the top flange. I personally had custom straight (non elbow) attachments made, in case you look and my pics and wonder :)

RGibson
11/25/2007, 02:07 PM
The pump that i found works the best with a beckett is Iwaki MD55RLT,i have used this pump for many years and allso tried many other pumps allways come back to the Iwaki.

anothermineral
11/25/2007, 03:16 PM
SDguy,

Thanks again for the info.

SDguy
11/25/2007, 06:38 PM
NP :)

elvictre
11/30/2007, 11:26 AM
OK I am new to this thread and I have a few questions. I have a MR4R and I located it higher than my tank and my sump. I have the water draining from the skimmer down to the sump. The line is probably something like 14ft. Is this a bad way to run my skimmer? Also the drain runs right out of my gate valve to a downward position, should I have a T at that point? I get a ton of bubbles so I run the return into a filter sock to eliminate them.

Vic

elvictre
11/30/2007, 12:33 PM
Also I forgot to add, I run the waste directly into a line plumbed to my drywell. Does this effect the performance of the skimmer?


Vic

drstupid
12/01/2007, 09:59 PM
elvictre, it won't affect your performance if the waste runs to your sewage, but it will make it impossible to have the skimmer "shut off" if it experiences an overflow episode. you don't need one of the auto-shut off collectors, just have the skimmate drain line go into a bucket stopping a couple of inches from the bottom. when the skimmate in the bucket gets higher than the drain line, it essentially shuts off the air flow through the skimmer and it stops generating foam.

i defeated bubbles two ways on my wee little MR-1. a great mod you can read more about in this thread is to shove a 90 degree slip fitting onto the output of each becket (in the skimmer body) to redirect the flow to the tower instead of the drain line. i'm not sure how the recirculation affects this, someone else can chip in if this doesn't make sense with this configuration, but i don't think it'll make a difference. the other way was to have the output go to a 90 degree elbow at the waterline of the sump, having it under water creates backpressure and having it above the water creates more bubbles, so pretty much split the difference.

with a 14' drop to the sump, you may need to take some more extreme measures, like put a T after that 90 so air can vent from above.

MyReefCreations
12/02/2007, 09:18 PM
I agree it is not a good idea to have the waste going into a drain. Best case scenario if it overflows the skimmer you burn a pump or two, worst case if you have a auto top off, well, you know...:eek:
Tim

rwessels
12/04/2007, 12:58 PM
OK I have been struggleing with my MR-6R for 6 months now and hope someone can't give me some suggestions. I am feeding it with a Mag-7 and the recirc pump is a Baracudda Seq as recommended from the MRC website.

Initially I had one heck of a time trying to set the water level and bubbles as the instructions were pretty generic and did not tell me that I needed to set the water level much higher than recommended. I also had the air valves opened up all the way and turned back 1 turn (as recommended). I had a very hard time keeping the foam level consistant and most if not all of the skimate just sat on the walls of the upper portion of the skimmer.

A few weeks ago someone recommended that I open the air valves ONLY 1 turn instead of being almost all the way open. I had to raise the water level MUCH higher to do this, but the foam level became very stable and I was able to start getting some skimmate into the waste container. I started to think my problems were solved.

2 nights ago the power went off for a few hours due to a storm. I turned of the recirc pump so that when the power went back on I wouldn't have any sort of overflow as I know that turning on and off the recirc pump can cause some water to come out of the air values. What I didn't realize is that the water level in the skimmer was at least 6 inches ABOVE the air valves. When the recirc pump is running that does not matter. When the power came back on (3-4 hours before I woke up), apparently I had a nice steady stream of salt water flooding my room.

After playing with some settings, I have now come to the conclusion that it does not seem possible to have the correct air and water levels on this skimmer 'out of the box'. I think the only solution is to raise the level of the becketts. Can anyone that has an MR-6R confirm this or maybe help me find what I am overlooking?

-Randy

MyReefCreations
12/04/2007, 08:03 PM
Randy, you have a PM

RGibson
12/05/2007, 06:20 AM
The recirc pump is to large for two becketts,

newsalt
12/05/2007, 06:58 AM
How do I keep the beckett on my MR2 from making a rattleing noise?

SDguy
12/05/2007, 01:56 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11318081#post11318081 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newsalt
How do I keep the beckett on my MR2 from making a rattleing noise?

Open up the beckett housing. Remove the black backett. Slide off the small rubber gaskets from each end. Open the two halves. Dry everything really well. Then superglue the internal arrow thingie (actualy word :D ) to ONE SIDE ONLY (you'll see where it actually touches the beckett casing halh at only two points). Let dry. Replace the two halves together. Slide the gaskets back on, and place the beckett back into the housing.

hth

newsalt
12/06/2007, 06:12 PM
Thanks. That problem is solved. The next problem I'm having is the water level in the main column changes from time to time. I usually keep the bubble/foam line at the top flange. That usually works great. After a few days, the bubble/foam line drops to middle of the main column. What could be causing this? The outlet of the skimmer is not submerged in the sump water. I find that I have to constantly adjust the gate valve to keep the level in the same place. You check out how the skimmer is piped up here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvj9aAJL-7s

Can anyone help me with this problem?

SDguy
12/07/2007, 10:40 AM
The vid wouldn't work for me?

Anyways, a couple things could be happening. Your water could be "flushing" out your drain. So the water level will rise, rise, then flush, and drop, then repeat. Also, if the area from which your supply pump draws water has a fluctuating water level, this will in turn affect the water level in the skimmer somewhat, IME.

hth

rwessels
12/07/2007, 01:49 PM
I think your bubbles are too big. Raise your water level and turn down the air to the becketts. Once I did that I had a much more stable foam column.

drstupid
12/07/2007, 03:17 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11329684#post11329684 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newsalt
Thanks. That problem is solved. The next problem I'm having is the water level in the main column changes from time to time. I usually keep the bubble/foam line at the top flange. That usually works great. After a few days, the bubble/foam line drops to middle of the main column. What could be causing this? The outlet of the skimmer is not submerged in the sump water. I find that I have to constantly adjust the gate valve to keep the level in the same place. You check out how the skimmer is piped up here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvj9aAJL-7s

Can anyone help me with this problem?

next time you see this, can you try turning off the air and seeing if the water settles out at the same level you started with days ago? if it doesn't, your input to the pump may be getting clogged, or the becket getting dirty. when this happens to me, it generally means it's time to clean the becket.

SDguy
12/07/2007, 03:44 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11335833#post11335833 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drstupid
next time you see this, can you try turning off the air and seeing if the water settles out at the same level you started with days ago? if it doesn't, your input to the pump may be getting clogged, or the becket getting dirty. when this happens to me, it generally means it's time to clean the becket.

Ditto on that here. I actually started using a filter sock in my sump just to keep my becketts and pump intake clear of debris.

newsalt
12/07/2007, 03:45 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11334002#post11334002 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
Your water could be "flushing" out your drain. So the water level will rise, rise, then flush, and drop, then repeat.
hth

I don't quite understand what you mean by "flushing". Could you explain that.

drstupid
12/07/2007, 04:05 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11336048#post11336048 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SDguy
Ditto on that here. I actually started using a filter sock in my sump just to keep my becketts and pump intake clear of debris.

i've found that using the gate valve to raise the water level back to where it was to be a very poor idea in these circumstances. if it is some debris in the line, it can work itself free and now your skimmer is operating at its previous flow. which means you risk a significant overlfow event which is probably not controllable by your waste shut off.

SDguy
12/07/2007, 04:53 PM
I'm not sure why you quoted me on that ;)

I agree, often debris does come loose, causing the water height to go back to where it was.

BTW, my waste collector has stopped overflows every time...no worries on that one, if anyone is doubting their effectiveness in this respect.

jjoos99
12/07/2007, 05:10 PM
I just received a used cr-2 reactor in the mail and the fitting that is in the bottem of the first chamber is broken off right at the chamber wall. Can anyone tell me if this is threaded into the chamber wall? Looks as if it has been epoxied to stop a leak. I am hoping it isnt epoxied into the acrylic.
Thanks
Jeff

newsalt
12/08/2007, 09:38 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11335833#post11335833 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drstupid
your input to the pump may be getting clogged, or the becket getting dirty. when this happens to me, it generally means it's time to clean the becket.

I've checked the input to the pump. It's not clogged. The beckett was cleaned a few days ago.

Last night I was cleaning the display. I had my hands in the tank so the level of the foam dropped as I expected it to. This morning, 14 hours later, the foam has yet to rise again. I did nothing else. I only put my hands in the tank. After 14 hours it hasn't come back to normal? That to me means something is wrong. Please help. I'm getting so frustrated.

MRC please step in to help with this problem.

RGibson
12/08/2007, 09:53 AM
What is that valve on the input to the beckett ?

newsalt
12/08/2007, 09:56 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11340797#post11340797 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RGibson
What is that valve on the input to the beckett ?

That feeds my Calcium Reactor.

rsteagall
12/14/2007, 01:03 PM
First off... Merry Christmas!

Secondly... I'm getting ready to get a pump for my MR2. I'm wanting to go bigger than the bare minimum, so I'm looking at the Gen-X PCX-70 or the Pan World 200PS. Am I doing right by getting more than the bare minimum? Which pump is most suggested if my main concern is noise? Any other thoughts?


Lastly... This thread has been split 3-4 times. Has anyone developed a FAQ and How-to that consolidates all this information?

dca22anderson
12/14/2007, 06:17 PM
I am new to this thread and would like to share my set up with you...This is my MRC Skimmer in action.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/57535full_tank_shot.jpg

This is my fish room with the MRC Calcium Reactor on the second shelf. It's a dual reactor.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/57535crop_fishroom.jpg

Great Thread! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me!

rsteagall
12/15/2007, 11:43 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11384029#post11384029 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rsteagall
First off... Merry Christmas!

Secondly... I'm getting ready to get a pump for my MR2. I'm wanting to go bigger than the bare minimum, so I'm looking at the Gen-X PCX-70 or the Pan World 200PS. Am I doing right by getting more than the bare minimum? Which pump is most suggested if my main concern is noise? Any other thoughts?


Lastly... This thread has been split 3-4 times. Has anyone developed a FAQ and How-to that consolidates all this information?

Bump... I need to order a pump asap. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

anothermineral
12/15/2007, 12:01 PM
rsteagall,

I'm using a Pan World 200PS for my return pump feeding my 210G display, 75G RDSB, and a 60G frag tank. It's quiet and I've had no problems with it when I've throttled it back in the past.

In the past, I had used it to feed twin becketts on my MR2 and was happy with the performance.

newsalt
12/15/2007, 09:24 PM
I'm still having problems with a fluctuating water level in the main column. As I mention a few posts back, the water level will be good for several days, the for no reason that I'm aware of, the level will drop in the main column. Can anyone help me with this problem please?

rsteagall
12/16/2007, 01:18 AM
Newsalt, is your return below or above the water level? Do you have an ATO?

In other words with the questions above, is something affecting the return from the skimmer? If NOTHING is affecting the return, something in affecting the input performance.

newsalt
12/16/2007, 09:00 AM
The return from the skimmer is above the water level and I do have an ATO. For instance, it happened again overnight. Last night the water level was up to the first flange. When I woke up this morning to check it, the water was halfway down the main column. Can't figure it out.

64Ivy
12/17/2007, 06:59 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11395014#post11395014 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newsalt
The return from the skimmer is above the water level and I do have an ATO. For instance, it happened again overnight. Last night the water level was up to the first flange. When I woke up this morning to check it, the water was halfway down the main column. Can't figure it out.

I am having the same issues. After running flawlessly for a nearly two years, my MR-7 suddenly began to exhibit these exact symptoms. I have cleaned and re-cleaned the unit, checked the pump (Sequence 4300), removed the cotton balls from the air intakes, and tried resetting it as per suggestions mentioned here (i.e: Setting water level just below the Becketts and adjusting the intake valves.) Interestingly, many times, adjusting these valves will make no difference...the level will remain the same from nearly closed to wide open. A couple other things I've noticed is that the sound of the air intakes definitely varies. Also, the unit will function normally for a while once it has been turned off for several minutes then the bubble column will collapse back to the first riser once again. I have another pump and some new intakes on the way; hopefully this will solve the problem. Would appreciate some other suggestions though.

RGibson
12/17/2007, 10:27 AM
what size hose do you used on the collection cup?

newsalt
12/17/2007, 11:03 AM
I'm not sure of the size. It's whatever fits onto the cup and waste collector connectors. My guess is it's 1/2" I.D.

RGibson
12/17/2007, 12:00 PM
if that air line gets stop up the water in the the skimmer will go down.

vanillagorila
12/18/2007, 12:53 PM
Im sure its just that I don't have my skimmer dialed in right, but it only makes great skim when its dirty. after I clean it, it makes good foam, but it doesn't really start making a good amount of skim until its really just black dirty. does anyone else have this problem?

rsteagall
12/18/2007, 08:34 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11402664#post11402664 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RGibson
if that air line gets stop up the water in the the skimmer will go down.

Good thought... I haven't taken my mr2 out of the box yet, but if it doesn't have a way for gas to escape except for the tube to the waste collector and that gets stopped up... it will build up pressure and do exactly what you mention. I've seen this happen on some skimmers i've had in the past where the air hole at the top gets clogged with skim.

jaws_too
12/18/2007, 09:24 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11386009#post11386009 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dca22anderson
I am new to this thread and would like to share my set up with you...This is my MRC Skimmer in action.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/57535full_tank_shot.jpg

This is my fish room with the MRC Calcium Reactor on the second shelf. It's a dual reactor.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/57535crop_fishroom.jpg

Great Thread! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me!




NICE TANK!

dca22anderson
12/19/2007, 12:49 PM
Thanks jaws_too!

64Ivy
12/19/2007, 05:54 PM
In my case it WAS the pump that caused the problem. Installed a new one this morning (5000) and everything is back to normal.

WeeJ
01/04/2008, 03:44 AM
Hi all - I just go my MR-2 so im a newbie in the club.

Quick question - due to space constraints... will the mr-2 work fine if i use a T and 45 directly after the output but it would be an 1" or 2" below the water line ?

vanillagorila
01/04/2008, 11:05 AM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11518034#post11518034 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WeeJ
Hi all - I just go my MR-2 so im a newbie in the club.

Quick question - due to space constraints... will the mr-2 work fine if i use a T and 45 directly after the output but it would be an 1" or 2" below the water line ?

you just want to make sure and use a tee for an air-break.

newsalt
01/07/2008, 10:50 PM
I'm still having a problem. It skims well for about a week and then bam, the water level in the main column drops.3-4 inches. I understand that sometime a skimmer stops skimming if there's nothing to skim or if you put your hands in the water, put having the level drop 3-4 inches in the main column? Something doesn't seem right. Can someone help?