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View Full Version : How does this look for a Sump setup?


05Xrunner
01/03/2007, 10:52 AM
Was sitting here trying to plain out a sump for my tank...its going to either be a 15gal or a 20long
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/05Xrunner/Sump.jpg

05Xrunner
01/03/2007, 11:07 AM
sorry..also will add ball valves in drain and return line to adjust the flow

piscivorous
01/03/2007, 11:27 AM
I may be wrong...but I would think you would want your skimmer in front of the flow to the fuge.....I'll be curious to see what others have to say....bump

05Xrunner
01/03/2007, 11:30 AM
this is basically the setup I am going to make...
http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/a/sump_model_a.html
I can move the micro bubble trap over to where the skimmer is and then make the inlet section larger to stick the simmer in so its before the fuge.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/05Xrunner/Sump2.jpg

05Xrunner
01/03/2007, 11:45 AM
Ohh yea..what thickness of acrylic should I get for the deviders i am gonna make for the bubble trap and all.
.060 or .080

mnestroy
01/03/2007, 01:01 PM
The 2nd drawing is correct, many skimmers will create a ton of micro bubbles... having it on the left will force the bubbles through the bubble traps... in the 1st one they would be sucked right into return pump and be all over your display tank.

You may also want to flip your baffles, put the 3 on the left and 1 on the right... the problem I have with mine is my macro algae tends to break off and finds its way to the return pump area... which inst a big deal.. but if the macro algae has to go down and the up it might cause a log jam.

jeffgp
01/03/2007, 01:06 PM
well i have my skimmer in front and have it plumbed to the bubble trap and i get nothing in the display tank

05Xrunner
01/03/2007, 01:08 PM
so do you mean put the bubble trap next to the skimmer and the last single divider over by the return. then have my skimmer empty out into the bubble trap

mnestroy
01/03/2007, 01:44 PM
HMM

3 Section

Section 1: Drain Line & Skimmer
-3 Baffles
Section 2:Fuge Area
-1 Baffle
Section 3: Return area (Return Pum, auto top off etc)

I am by far an expert on sump designs, but I just recently built one and this method worked well...

The main key is to have the source of the bubbles as far away from your return pump as possible.. The Drain causes a lot of bubbles (which a filter sock can help) and most skimmers also create bubbles.... giving the water time to go through baffles and fuge will make sure few if any bubbles get pushed into display tank.

What I was saying about the 1 vs 3 baffles is sometimes macro algae from the fuge area will find its way into the next section (the return section) and if you have the 3 baffles its "possible" some might get snagged up in there and cause a log jam effect...

xenon
01/03/2007, 01:48 PM
Its a popular deaign but your fuge would be more effective with less flow. This is the best "simple" sump you can build.

Notice I that I can control the amount of flow my fuge gets.

http://www.dansouliere.com/pictures/newsump.jpg

jeffgp
01/03/2007, 01:51 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8886284#post8886284 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 05Xrunner
so do you mean put the bubble trap next to the skimmer and the last single divider over by the return. then have my skimmer empty out into the bubble trap


no it like the second drawing

i have the skimmer by the downpipe from the overflow and have it plumbed with pvc to the bubble trap after my fuge so the skimmed watter goes over the fuge and right to the bubble trap

05Xrunner
01/03/2007, 01:52 PM
ok gotcha

mnestroy
01/03/2007, 01:57 PM
I still like the return at the opposite end, gives the micro bubbles more time to pop... They have to make it past 2 sets of baffles, rocks and macro...

Nothing worst than bubbles in your tank :)

You want to keep the entire flow in you sump low.. 3-5x... I cant imagine having much less than for a fuge.

rudezuk
01/03/2007, 03:24 PM
Here is one i put together for my large tank....And I like how it is working so far..

i did change the return pump to a mag 5 though. But this allows you to control how much flow is through the Fuge too.

I also added a small partition wall where the water comes into the sump, so that I dont stir the sand up too much.

http://hbrk4x4.com/albums/userpics/10001/sumpA.JPG

sjm817
01/03/2007, 03:39 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8885654#post8885654 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 05Xrunner
this is basically the setup I am going to make...
http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/sumps/a/sump_model_a.html
I can move the micro bubble trap over to where the skimmer is and then make the inlet section larger to stick the simmer in so its before the fuge.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a224/05Xrunner/Sump2.jpg
Layout is OK. Keep the source of bubbles (drain and skimmer) as far away from the return as you can. The bubble traps should not go all the way to the top. The over should be 1" higher than the under baffles.

RandyStacyE
01/03/2007, 04:15 PM
I never trusted elaborate baffles to separate out bubbles. I have my overflow directed into a filter sock. The filter sock will filter out all bubbles regardless how small. My skimmer is set near the sock (on the other side of the baffle) and its output is directed into the sock as well. Now there is no possibility of getting a single bubble in the sump or in the display tank. Filter socks do a wonderful job of filtering the water too.

In other words you can have only 3 baffles.

sjm817
01/03/2007, 04:27 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8887668#post8887668 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RandyStacyE
I never trusted elaborate baffles to separate out bubbles. I have my overflow directed into a filter sock. The filter sock will filter out all bubbles regardless how small. My skimmer is set near the sock (on the other side of the baffle) and its output is directed into the sock as well. Now there is no possibility of getting a single bubble in the sump or in the display tank. Filter socks do a wonderful job of filtering the water too.

In other words you can have only 3 baffles.
I agree. Bubble traps dont work very well. The premise is the bubbles rise when the water is travelling downward. The problem is, tiny microbubbles are not buoyant. They ride right through a bubble trap. Filter socks work much better.

Symbiote
01/03/2007, 04:33 PM
One thing I don't see here that I've found usefull is a check valve on the return, if your return sticks in the tank to any considerable depth the tank could siphon back into the sump causing it to over flow when you shut the pump off.

05Xrunner
01/03/2007, 04:49 PM
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8887845#post8887845 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Symbiote
One thing I don't see here that I've found usefull is a check valve on the return, if your return sticks in the tank to any considerable depth the tank could siphon back into the sump causing it to over flow when you shut the pump off.
there is going to be 2 small holes drilled into the return about 1" or so under the water level. so if it kicks off and drains once it reaches that point it will break the vac and stop.

Bergovoy
01/03/2007, 05:27 PM
The top of my returns are a bit more then 1" below the surface of the water. and on a tank that is 72x24x24, that is a bunch of water that could be expected to flow back to teh sump.

I have a check valve, but as usual, I am told to not rely on that, but if I can not rely on that as a fail safe, how many fail safes do I need? and which onecan i rely on.

or is the point to not rely on anything, and as a worst case scenario, to expect a ton of water on teh floor???

Would a back up to the back up be a water-proof liner , inside my stand, that can hole lets say, all of the water in my tank, because as a worst case scenario, something could plug the anti-syphon hole(s)...

Symbiote
01/03/2007, 05:49 PM
My sump can hold an additional 50 gallons or so if I should ever run into such a problem. This is my fail safe!

The sumps you guys are talking about here only look like they will have a few gallons to spare. I'd go for the check valve regardless of the fact that they cannot be 100% relied upon. another method is to have the returns above the water causing the disturbance on the surface that makes all the pretty shadows under the pin point lighting.

Just my 2 cents, I'm not an accomplished Reefer but I do understand how all most things in the physical world work.

05Xrunner
01/03/2007, 06:15 PM
well i only have a 75gal tank...and if its only 1" below the surface for teh vac break..that only comes out to like 3.7gal of water would drain back.
I used 48x18x1/231
I am pretty sure I will leave enough room in the sump to handle an extra 4gal

jeffgp
01/03/2007, 06:54 PM
if that totals to 3 gals then id make it handle 5gal for the over i have an extra 4" in the sump and its a 30long .. so i have extra room for the power outage .. and i also made the return area small so the return pump cant overflow the display if for some reason it loose suction .. that has olny happend once .. small air leak in the airtube

Bergovoy
01/03/2007, 07:40 PM
I measured my pipe, and with teh bulkhead, the top of pipe is two inches below the teeth.

That means 15 gals, and for safety, I should figure 20 gals. That is a sump just by itself, now I have to figure a sump volume and refug, I need 50 gallon container, and I dont have the room...

I will have the check valve, actually it is already in place.

I will just have to make or buy a sump twice the size I need or want...

Oh well...

spmedi
01/03/2007, 10:24 PM
Guess I have a xexon and rudezuk mix. See their pic above.

Like rudezuk I have two 1" drains into the same sump design. However I joined the 1" drains just behind the tank and put a ball valve on each one one just below that. The ball valve to the skimmer is wide open but I dial the fuge back almost half way.