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#1
12/18/2007, 12:39 AM
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The age-old issue of joining acrylic to glass...
Everything I've read here and elsewhere suggests that there is no good/reliable way to join the two. However, browsing Home Depot last night, I found a silicone made by GE that claims to bond glass to glass, acrylic to acrylic, and glass to acrylic.
So, me being me, I bought it. Only thing is, I forgot to buy acrylic to test it out on (Doh!). So anyway, has anyone had experience with this? I'm gonna stop at the Depot again tomorrow and buy a sheet of Acrylic to build a couple overflows for my new tank (AGA 50breeder). If anyone has objections in the mean time... let me know 
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#2
12/18/2007, 12:52 AM
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I would stop by your local glass shop and see f they have any scrap cast acrulic around as most things in thios hobby are made from cast. I don't know if there would be a difference when it comes to bonding things, but might as well get the cast if that's what you are going to be using.
Are you trying to get a structual and watertight bond, or just glue some internal overflows in or baffles or something like that that is not really structual or watertight? What's the name of the product?
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Jeff |
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#3
12/18/2007, 12:59 AM
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Product is called "100% Silicone Sealant for Lexan sheet & other plastics"
"Uses: For bonding Polycarbonate, or Glass substrates such as: Lexan Polycarbonate, Glass, PC, PVC, Aluminum, Fiberglass, Metals, Abraded Rubber." Just realized that it does not specifically list Acrylic. Think this will be an issue? Also states: "Not For: conditions where FDA compliance is necessary." Hmmmm.... |
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#4
12/18/2007, 01:40 AM
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I have used this product. It comes in a wite and red tube. Its not much different than silicon. It kinda traps the acrylic. Meaning, if you run a bead on both sidea it sticks to the glass real well but if you bull hard enough it comes right off the acrylic. I used it for baffels and never had a problem. When i tore that sump down, i pulled the baffels out the that stuff stuck to the glass and very little stuck to the acrylic.
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#5
12/18/2007, 03:22 PM
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I used this with my current sump and plan on using it again with another one. It works well enough for my taste - I wanted to remove one of the baffles a few months after I glued it in and it wouldn't budge! I don't know if I'd trust it on my display tank, though. If the baffle in the sump leaks, no big deal. If the overflow on your display leaks, you might have a bigger problem.
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Dogs - Man's best friend; entropy's greatest catalyst. |
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#6
12/18/2007, 06:32 PM
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I've used regular silicone for acrylic baffles in a glass sump before and it worked. Again, we're not talking about something needing to be 100% water tight or bare much load. I don't think there is any adhesive that will bond glass to acrylic strong enough to build an aquarium.
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Your tastebuds can't repel flavor of that magnitude! |
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#7
12/18/2007, 08:11 PM
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I've heard they use expensive UV cured resins for gluing the glass to the pvc bottoms and the acrylic tops. There is a company called MasterBond that has glue for everything. Get your wallet out
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"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
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#9
12/19/2007, 01:09 AM
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Glass to glass, Dow Corning 999. Acrylic or glass to fiberglass, epoxied plywood, or concrete, Dow Corning 795.
__________________
"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
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#10
12/19/2007, 09:25 AM
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yep, 795 works well. Public aquariums have been using it for many yrs. There are a few colors but they don't make it in clear; black, white, brown, kind of an odd "blue", maybe more - these are what I've seen.
James |
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#11
12/19/2007, 09:54 AM
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One really needs to get into the commercial types of stuff when trying to build things of a structural nature (tanks etc) versus the home depot type stuff that is good for baffles et al.
When i worked in the aircraft business, we used more types of sealers, epoxies, glues etc.. It baffles the mind how many different types that were available for very specific uses.
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"It is never too late to give up your prejudices" H. D. Thoreau |
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#12
12/19/2007, 10:18 AM
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but all of this may beg the question... While there may be materials out there to create a better/best/permanent bond between acrylic and glass... are they reef safe? Due to the forces of volume the standard overflow (in tank) does not need to be bonded as permanently as say, a calflo (hanging outside). IMO silicone is fine to hold a standard acrylic overflow or baffle to glass. Why risk the health/integrity of a system and its inhabitants to anything else.
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#13
12/19/2007, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
James |
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#17
12/19/2007, 07:16 PM
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I wouldn't use this in a reef.
Quote:
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#18
12/19/2007, 07:48 PM
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The product specification sheet for DC 795 states that it should not be used "on surfaces that are continuously immersed in water".
http://www1.dowcorning.com/DataFiles...c880001f03.pdf There are seven varieties listed for marine applications. Of these, the DC 732 seems like it would be suitable for bonding acrylics baffles and overflows to glass. The product spec mentions adherence to glass, metals, and most plastics. The specific data sheet listed for food and beverage applications can be found here. http://www1.dowcorning.com/DataFiles...c88000185b.pdf Do you think this would work? |
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#20
12/19/2007, 08:01 PM
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Not discounting what a spec sheet has to say (to limit liabililty btw) but I *personally* count on my own 20 yr experience working with this product. I use it prolly once a week and still have items now in service 15-20yrs. I'm satisfied with it
James |
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#21
12/20/2007, 10:50 AM
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I agree that there are products that can adhere acrylic to glass, but as mentioned before... It doesnt make it reef safe. There is a huge difference in adhereing paneling to drywall or a wing on a jet to something that needs to be in contact with a contained living environment. Doesnt seem to make sense to be concerned with microns of detritus and part per million and then use non food approved building supplies.
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#22
12/20/2007, 04:44 PM
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Many products are perfectly safe for food contact, but the manufacturer doesnt want to pay the huge fee to get it FDA approved.
ABS plastic is used in all kinds of aquarium equipment, but everybody is scared of ABS piping. Why would a manufacturer of adhesives designed for airplane wings get FDA approval for his product? As long as the final cured product is inert and wont corrode, then its reef safe in my book. No disrespect meant, just FYI.
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"Not cheap, but silent and absofrickenlutely no bubbles" "Be sure and wear a speedo lest tangs nest in your britches" |
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#23
12/21/2007, 12:34 AM
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Another method is to cut strips of glass to put along the edges of the overflow. You drill the glass and acrylic and bolt them together... then you have an acrylic overflow with a glass edge to bond to glass.
http://www.acrylicandglassexhibits.com/ AGE/Tom Hudson uses some sort of glue to bond the glass sides to the PVC sheet bottom of their tanks... think its a grey caulk looking substance. Then, as if that isnt a hybrid enough in itself, they use acrylic for the top flange... so they have some clear glue that bonds acrylic to glass... seen it in person. You might want to contact them.
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"If at first, the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it" -Al Einstein |
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