Catalytic Carbon

[ikatobiko]

Is loose catalytic carbon any more efficient than the carbon block type filters with respect to water filtration?

[Boomer]

It is much more effective. It s main purpose in this hobby for RO/DI units. A Good RO/DI will have a C-GAC bed and a CB. CB do not do a very good job at removing chloramines.

Catalytic more or less means to increase it rate. This is the case here. The rate of removing chlorine and chloramine is increased in a single pass through the carbon vs. say a carbon block or most other types of GAC

[ikatobiko]

Do you ned to rinse the Catalytic Carbon or do anything special to it before you use it in your RODI unit?

Also, my RODI was clogged by this stuff....I think it was the screen on the top or bottom of the container. Do I have to buy a new container or is the screen/mesh material replaceable?

Originally posted by Boomer
It is much more effective. It s main purpose in this hobby for RO/DI units. A Good RO/DI will have a C-GAC bed and a CB. CB do not do a very good job at removing chloramines.

Catalytic more or less means to increase it rate. This is the case here. The rate of removing chlorine and chloramine is increased in a single pass through the carbon vs. say a carbon block or most other types of GAC

[Boomer]

Who's RO/DI do you have ? Where is the C-GAC container in the system, before the CB or after it? Is there a CB also ? Where did you get the C-GAC ? Is this a PurelyH20 System ?

RODI was clogged by this stuff.

Something is then wrong with the set up. It is not the first time this has happen.

IMHO

Pre-filter/s==>C=GAC==> CB==> RO==>DI

[ikatobiko]

I was running 2 canisters filled with the Catalytic Carbon. The RODI is a Kent Maxima Unit set up as follows.

|Coarse Sed Filter| ->|Fine Sed Filter| ->|C-GAC| ->|C-GAC| ->|RO| ->|DI|

The system had been running fine like this for around a year with no problems. When it got clogged, I replaced ALL media and cleaned out the pressure valve but still got very little output.

Then, last night I replaced both C-GAC with CB and everything worked again. Tonight, I replaced one of the CB (the second one in the chain with the C-GAC and the container that had the clean filter screen ) and things seem to be still working. I guess I'll replace the other (clogged) container as well if I can't clean it (I tried already).

I thought that Randy did a study and found that a typical RODI system with Sed/CB/RO/DI removed chloramine without the use of C-GAC?

Originally posted by Boomer
Who's RO/DI do you have ? Where is the C-GAC container in the system, before the CB or after it? Is there a CB also ? Where did you get the C-GAC ? Is this a PurelyH20 System ?

RODI was clogged by this stuff.

Something is then wrong with the set up. It is not the first time this has happen.

IMHO

Pre-filter/s==>C=GAC==> CB==>RO==>DI

[Boomer]

Most std or good RO/D use a C-GAC and then a CB. This CB will stop in C-GAC fines from getting in the RO unit.

Ok, you look good

Randy wrote an article on RO/DI units. There is nothing about chloramine and C-GAC.

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm

He wrote another one on Chloramine here with "chlorine" test results. The carbon brougth it down to very, very low levels of chlorine or chloramine, using just the carbon he had. It also has no mention of C-GAC.

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php

[ikatobiko]

Yes, that is what I thought...his articles pretty much infer that catalytic carbon is not necessary to remove chloramine.

Originally posted by Boomer
Most std or good RO/D use a C-GAC and then a CB. This CB will stop in C-GAC fines from getting in the RO unit.

Ok, you look good

Randy wrote an article on RO/DI units. There is nothing about chloramine and C-GAC.

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm

He wrote another one on Chloramine here with "chlorine" test results. The carbon brougth it down to very, very low levels of chlorine or chloramine, using just the carbon he had. It also has no mention of C-GAC.

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/20...ture/index.php

[ikatobiko]

I guess the only reason to use it is to prolong the life of the DI cartridge. However, this stuff is not as convenient as the carbon block. I think I will switch back as soon as my catalytic carbon supply is exhausted.

[Boomer]

Well, you can do that if you want but there are may people that still have issues with chloramine with just a carbon block.

1. What type of carbon does Randy actually have ?

2. His type of RO membrane does not let it through but other membranes do. Not all RO membranes reject chloramine.

3. Others have tested their RO/DI water and still have ample Chloramine in their RO/DI water. The reason behind some RO/DI units having C-GAC

4. Not all carbon filters or blocks are necessarily the same. Although Randy's tests seem to say allot and maybe not worry one still needs to know what RO/DI systems were tested, i.e., RO membrane type, carbon type (many RO/DI system do use/come with C-GAC)


guess the only reason to use it is to prolong the life of the DI cartridge.

The only effect on the DI is going to be that chloramine and chlorine that has been converted to chloride ions ( and yes the ammonia). Most of this will be reject by the RO but not all, those not will be picked up by the DI. If it is not converted and makers it past the RO the DI will not remove them, they are molecules and uncharged. DI's remove charged ions = RO/DI water with chloramine

[AZDesertRat]

Here is a good article by Charles Mitsis of Spectrapure with comments and observations from Randy.

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=200056

[Boomer]

Tanks Rat some nice stuff there

[ikatobiko]

Originally posted by AZDesertRat
Here is a good article by Charles Mitsis of Spectrapure with comments and observations from Randy.

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=200056

[ikatobiko]

Thanks for the info. Since my tap water's pH is around 7.0, I guess I am safe using the carbon block type filters. I will probably get the test kit since I am curious about the levels of chloramine in my tap water.

Originally posted by AZDesertRat
Here is a good article by Charles Mitsis of Spectrapure with comments and observations from Randy.

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=200056

[AZDesertRat]

Spectrapure does recommend the 0.5 micron carbon block if you are wanting it for chlormine removal, thats the one they use in their best RO/DI units. Charles tells me the larger pore size on the 10 and 5 is not as effective.

[ikatobiko]

Thanks, that's what I am using right now. It's much easier to use 2 of these than 1 of these and 1 of the catalytic.

Originally posted by AZDesertRat
Spectrapure does recommend the 0.5 micron carbon block if you are wanting it for chlormine removal, thats the one they use in their best RO/DI units. Charles tells me the larger pore size on the 10 and 5 is not as effective.

[Unresistible Blue]

The Cat GAC tends to be high in fines and needs to be rinsed thoroughly. Remember that of course you wouldn't want to run the rinse/flush water into a later stage in your system.

[Boomer]

The Cat GAC tends to be high in fines and needs to be rinsed thoroughly

That my be true for some but I have seen one that has about 0 fines.

[Boomer]

Unresistible Blue

"Box is full"

http://www.thefilterguys.biz/

I have had it in my hands. I use to collect GAC samples and this is some really nice stuff. It is also on the order of $ 8.00 / l