How hard is it to drill a tank?

Thinslis · #1 12/29/2006, 12:44 PM

How hard is it to drill a glass tank (90g 48x18x25)?

Thanks,

rickh · #2 12/29/2006, 01:39 PM

I've done it with a Dremmel on a small tank. It's not hard, just scary. If you screw up that 90 gallon you will hate yourself. Try to find a local person that will drill it and guarantee a replacement if they break the tank. R

smurray · #3 12/29/2006, 01:44 PM

I've drilled a few holes in the bottom of 30g's before with a diamond headed hold saw that I got from online. It was kinda expensive, but at the time, I didn't care. LoL! Its not too bad, just REALLY loud.... And I had water readily available while drilling. Only word of advice, when your putting on the bulkheads, careful not to trip, fall, and think that your going to catch yourself on the plumbing coming up from the upside down, newly drilled 30g fish tank. >=[ They don't tend to like too much pressure side to side... LoL!

scaryperson27 · #4 12/29/2006, 01:55 PM

Just do lots of reading and practice on scrap pieces of glass. Then you'll know how hard it is.

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=603816

What type of glass tank do you have? are you sure it isn't tempered? If you have an all glass then here is some pretty good info.

http://all-glass.com/services/techinfo.shtml

tptp279 · #5 12/29/2006, 02:19 PM

i just put 5 holes in my 46 over the last week, it's not hard at all, just take your time.

DHyslop · #6 12/29/2006, 03:36 PM

You're not going to find anyone who will drill it and guarantee the tank.

You can get a diamond hole saw off of eBay for around $10. You won't have any trouble if you keep the bit wet and go slow.

Dan

mflamb · #7 12/29/2006, 10:33 PM

Do a ebay search for glass hole saw. Order from a guy named Lao from Hong Kong.

loves saltwater · #8 12/29/2006, 11:00 PM

Ebay Item #180067052927 I bought one just like this for less than $10.00 with shipping.I don't know what size but this seller has many sizes.

jdav · #9 12/29/2006, 11:10 PM

it's not hard.

Bergovoy · #10 12/30/2006, 04:01 AM

I will let you know soon, I ordered a set of common sizes

Hope to make money in the process, and no I wont guarantee anything...

kgross · #11 12/30/2006, 05:47 AM

As long as the glass is not tempered it is not to hard to drill with the correct tools. The best way to go is with the diamond hole saw, after that a dremel with a tile cutting bit works pretty well. Just get some scrap to practice on, and go slow with water on the bit to keep it cool and lubed.

Kim

underpar · #12 12/30/2006, 05:53 AM

The e-bay seller mentioned above is "lau***"; his e-bay store is "THK Diamond Tools".

Good luck!

Jasen Hicks · #13 12/30/2006, 07:14 AM

I've drilled a few tanks, a couple of AGA 20's. Drilling went fine, and the glass was very clean afterwards, I got the drill bit from technologylk.com. Id reccomend getting the "Drill Press" attachment for your drill at HD or LOWES.. keeps the bit from jumping around initially. Also, use the diamond bit cooling liquid as it will prolong life of the bit. And finally, both my 20s cracked when I plumbed them... the smaller tanks cant take much of any stress around the new holes, I think the glass is just too thin. I tightened one bulkhead down too much bc it leaked a little bit.

medic29 · #14 12/30/2006, 10:33 AM

I've drilled several. The only one that cracked/broke was the fist one I drilled, a 10 gal from wal-mart ($9). It only cracked/broke because I was stupid. I had it drilled and plumbed with bulkheads and everything was fine. I had a hose hooked up to it for the water test and the hose was leaking where it connected to the bulkhead, so I went and pushed on the hose to put it in further and didn't support the bulkhead or glass and ....it didn't take much and the glass went. The glass on a 10 gal tank is only 1/16", the 20 gal is almost 1/8".

When you plumb the tank with the bulkheads to help prevent any leaking I use silicone. I put a bead on the rubber gasket that goes against the glass and smear some on the threads. I don't use any teflon tape or plumber's paste on the threads, just the silicone. It works great, no leaks at all. You can even use the silicone on the threads for the fitting screwing into the bulkhead if needed. This way you don't have to tighten the fitting very much. From experience, the 1/2" bulkheads won't take too much torque (I've busted 3 of them and didn't tighter the fitting that much, it just splits down the seem). This last time I used silicone on the thread and just barely got it snug, then let the silicone set and it is perfect.

The bigger the tank the thicker the glass, but still support it when you drill and treat it gently after drilling and you should be fine.

bigdaddyTank · #15 12/30/2006, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by scaryperson27
Just do lots of reading and practice on scrap pieces of glass. Then you'll know how hard it is.

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=603816

What type of glass tank do you have? are you sure it isn't tempered? If you have an all glass then here is some pretty good info.

http://all-glass.com/services/techinfo.shtml

I have done all the reading and have some hole saws coming from lau on ebay but was wondering if anyone has ever drilled out the All-Glass 75E's. They say the E model is tempered, and it list's on that link as a tempered bottom, but is the back tempered also?

melissa77 · #16 12/30/2006, 12:20 PM

no, just the bottom is tempered....

Bergovoy · #17 12/30/2006, 02:01 PM

There are ways to determine if glass is tempered.

1. They make a device, (?), that is placed on the edge of the glass, (which is difficult on an assembled tank with trim). After the device is placed on the edge, you look at the plastic window, and it appears to be dark brown, it is tempered.

2. You use a pair of poloraized sunglasses and look at the tank and the glass. If you can see an imperfect film on the surface of the glass, (like bubbles or pits), the glass is Tempered. You can look at windshields on your car to see what this film or what the surface imperfections look like.

3. (not my favorite method, but absolutely the most sure way to determine)
Take a glass cutting tool, (the carbide wheel type), and make a small scratch / score on the glass, in an inconspicous location. If the glass tool does leave a scratch or a score in the surface, the glass is NOT tempered. Tempored glass is harder than regular glass and you will not be able to score it with that tool.

Good luck.