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  #1  
Old 04/15/2005, 10:58 AM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Need constructive criticisim Sump/Fuge **PIC**

Finally in the final thinking stange, and needed some peoples help... Just wnat some input or ideas... maybe i am leaving something out...

  #2  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:06 AM
BarryF BarryF is offline
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That connection from the 10G live rock area to the sump makes me nervous. Could you drill the tank overflow style? A strainer or an elbow and you're all set.
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  #3  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:07 AM
gtrestoration gtrestoration is offline
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The 10 gallon with the live rock will be collecting the majority of the gunk and may be harder to keep clean than you hope.

How will the water get from the 10G to the skimmer bay?

SteveU
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  #4  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:10 AM
gtrestoration gtrestoration is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by BarryF
That connection from the 10G live rock area to the sump makes me nervous. Could you drill the tank overflow style? A strainer or an elbow and you're all set.
What he said... but not at the top of the 10g. I've had tanks with a hole near the top for overflow and they won't carry much water. If you go with a side hole drilled have it drilled towards the bottom and use an elbow to come up. That way you can adjust the water level.

SteveU
  #5  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:10 AM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Sorry, couldn't really draw an overflow bo, but tha is what i am planning on using.

Should i reverse the design to have the live rock after the fuge area? or should i pump the water out of the fuge area to the LR area?
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  #6  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:12 AM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Was originally going to run a pump to the LR holding tank with a float switch to eliminate overflows...
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  #7  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:12 AM
Entropy Entropy is offline
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My concern is with the size of the return chamber (water level to be exact). You have to ensure there is enough water to handle evaporation and still keep the pump below water. Unless you have a auto topoff, I would make the return chamber much bigger.
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  #8  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:15 AM
jjjimmy jjjimmy is offline
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What are you planning on keeping? You may want to reverse the LR sump and the refuge. I like being able to control the flow through my refuge seperately from the flow of the main system. If you are going to be running a powerful return pump, that may be too much flow for a refugium.
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  #9  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:16 AM
bigdee65 bigdee65 is offline
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Along with everyone else said, if you can change the config to get the skimmer the "RAW" water from the tank you will be maximizing your skimmer. JMO
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  #10  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:23 AM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Yeah increasing the size of the return area will be done. This isn't a "Scale" drawing but close as i can get....

Well i want to get this tank reef ready, but not going to go reef right away.... I dont want to have to do this work with an established tank. SO right now is the perfect opportunity to do so.

I al going to play around with the drawings .... here are a few thoughts that have been shooting arouind my head...

- Should i run the 20L as a sump with the 10 as a fuge on a separate circuit connected to the sump?

- flow is always a concern. What is too much?

- Currently I have a wet/dry setup underthere that i dont want to use. I'll show a pic.. maybe i can use this for something. I did a flow test of the system (with bioballs removed), and the overlow never filled the sump area but half way, so i think the flow is dialed in with the current setup.

Here are pics....

Tank....



wet/dry



Current Cluster@#$@... (remember i inherited this setup last week) and there is no way i will be using this method of filtration....

  #11  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:24 AM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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BTW this system is all been removed, and all flow to the overflow has been stopped....
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  #12  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:42 AM
Pike Pike is offline
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Without having to change your configuration too much....

Make the 10 gallon your 'fuge. Increase its overflow ability as has already been mentioned & install a ballvalve on its supply to regulate flow. In addition, route the 'fuge overflow to the return portion of your sump so the "bugs" don't get skimmed or caught in the live rock.

If I had the space I'd do something very similar.
  #13  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:52 AM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pike
Without having to change your configuration too much....

Make the 10 gallon your 'fuge. Increase its overflow ability as has already been mentioned & install a ballvalve on its supply to regulate flow. In addition, route the 'fuge overflow to the return portion of your sump so the "bugs" don't get skimmed or caught in the live rock.

If I had the space I'd do something very similar.
I see what you are saying..... I am working on another drawing.... I'll post it here shortly...
  #14  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:56 AM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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  #15  
Old 04/15/2005, 11:57 AM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Question is can i drill my 10-gallon? I remember seeing someone try to do that, and it shattered...
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  #16  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:05 PM
Entropy Entropy is offline
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10G's are $10 at petco, so IMO it is definately worth a shot.
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  #17  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:11 PM
Pike Pike is offline
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Well, the oceanic 2.5 that is my refugium is tempered. I can't say for sure however about their 10.

There's always acrylic. A small tank like that would be a great first project & can easily be constructed out of 1/4".
  #18  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:14 PM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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yeah drillin the tank is the least of my worries....

Did anyone see the second drawing?
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  #19  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:16 PM
Pike Pike is offline
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Eliminate the floatswitch/powerhead. Install a "Y" fitting in the overflow with the ball valve on the 'fuge side to regulate flow. Might as well use the free energy (gravity) that's there & eliminate a heat source & potential failure point.
  #20  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:18 PM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pike
Eliminate the floatswitch/powerhead. Install a "Y" fitting in the overflow with the ball valve on the 'fuge side to regulate flow. Might as well use the free energy (gravity) that's there & eliminate a heat source & potential failure point.
Genious!

Thanks!
  #21  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:19 PM
Pike Pike is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dymaxiun
Genious!

Thanks!
I have a new sig!
  #22  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:29 PM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Lol
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  #23  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:48 PM
jjjimmy jjjimmy is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pike
Eliminate the floatswitch/powerhead. Install a "Y" fitting in the overflow with the ball valve on the 'fuge side to regulate flow. Might as well use the free energy (gravity) that's there & eliminate a heat source & potential failure point.
when I was doing mine I thought of that as well, but I instead t'd off of the return pump to feed the refugium and it has worked out great.
  #24  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:59 PM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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I can experiment with both..... i just relised i can just use this for my fuge... as long as it is elevated it may just fit.... The bottom tray is just a bucket (acrylic tank) even has a drain already...

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  #25  
Old 04/15/2005, 12:59 PM
dymaxiun dymaxiun is offline
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Wiat i woulnd't want to use that drain.. it is too low.. but easy to drill a new one....
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