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#1
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Need constructive criticisim Sump/Fuge **PIC**
Finally in the final thinking stange, and needed some peoples help... Just wnat some input or ideas... maybe i am leaving something out...
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#2
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That connection from the 10G live rock area to the sump makes me nervous. Could you drill the tank overflow style? A strainer or an elbow and you're all set.
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-Barry |
#3
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The 10 gallon with the live rock will be collecting the majority of the gunk and may be harder to keep clean than you hope.
How will the water get from the 10G to the skimmer bay? SteveU
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AKA, Riff |
#4
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SteveU |
#5
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Sorry, couldn't really draw an overflow bo, but tha is what i am planning on using.
Should i reverse the design to have the live rock after the fuge area? or should i pump the water out of the fuge area to the LR area?
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
#6
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Was originally going to run a pump to the LR holding tank with a float switch to eliminate overflows...
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
#7
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My concern is with the size of the return chamber (water level to be exact). You have to ensure there is enough water to handle evaporation and still keep the pump below water. Unless you have a auto topoff, I would make the return chamber much bigger.
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Rich Overton Hit the little red house above for the ARC website! You know you want to! |
#8
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What are you planning on keeping? You may want to reverse the LR sump and the refuge. I like being able to control the flow through my refuge seperately from the flow of the main system. If you are going to be running a powerful return pump, that may be too much flow for a refugium.
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How strange it seems that the truth is something that most do not want to hear. |
#9
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Along with everyone else said, if you can change the config to get the skimmer the "RAW" water from the tank you will be maximizing your skimmer. JMO
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Member of the Hudson Valley Reef Keepers (HVRK) |
#10
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Yeah increasing the size of the return area will be done. This isn't a "Scale" drawing but close as i can get....
Well i want to get this tank reef ready, but not going to go reef right away.... I dont want to have to do this work with an established tank. SO right now is the perfect opportunity to do so. I al going to play around with the drawings .... here are a few thoughts that have been shooting arouind my head... - Should i run the 20L as a sump with the 10 as a fuge on a separate circuit connected to the sump? - flow is always a concern. What is too much? - Currently I have a wet/dry setup underthere that i dont want to use. I'll show a pic.. maybe i can use this for something. I did a flow test of the system (with bioballs removed), and the overlow never filled the sump area but half way, so i think the flow is dialed in with the current setup. Here are pics.... Tank.... wet/dry Current Cluster@#$@... (remember i inherited this setup last week) and there is no way i will be using this method of filtration.... |
#11
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BTW this system is all been removed, and all flow to the overflow has been stopped....
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
#12
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Without having to change your configuration too much....
Make the 10 gallon your 'fuge. Increase its overflow ability as has already been mentioned & install a ballvalve on its supply to regulate flow. In addition, route the 'fuge overflow to the return portion of your sump so the "bugs" don't get skimmed or caught in the live rock. If I had the space I'd do something very similar. |
#13
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#14
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
#15
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Question is can i drill my 10-gallon? I remember seeing someone try to do that, and it shattered...
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
#16
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10G's are $10 at petco, so IMO it is definately worth a shot.
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Rich Overton Hit the little red house above for the ARC website! You know you want to! |
#17
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Well, the oceanic 2.5 that is my refugium is tempered. I can't say for sure however about their 10.
There's always acrylic. A small tank like that would be a great first project & can easily be constructed out of 1/4". |
#18
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yeah drillin the tank is the least of my worries....
Did anyone see the second drawing?
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
#19
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Eliminate the floatswitch/powerhead. Install a "Y" fitting in the overflow with the ball valve on the 'fuge side to regulate flow. Might as well use the free energy (gravity) that's there & eliminate a heat source & potential failure point.
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#20
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Thanks! |
#21
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#22
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Lol
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
#23
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#24
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I can experiment with both..... i just relised i can just use this for my fuge... as long as it is elevated it may just fit.... The bottom tray is just a bucket (acrylic tank) even has a drain already...
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
#25
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Wiat i woulnd't want to use that drain.. it is too low.. but easy to drill a new one....
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I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. |
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