Step-by-step account of my first reef (with lots of pics)

[gary faulkner]

Dudester and gkarshens,

Thanks for the advice on the 12K, That's what I will be ordering.

Who has the best price right now if you know?

Thanks again for all your help.

[Dudester]

Rustylugnuts - What a colossal waste of time . Hope you were entertained by our "wild ride," and thanks for the comments. Good luck with your project and do start a thread about it. Oh, and the doors of the UT Marine Science Institute are always open.

I've decided to go back with softies and GSP and some damsels for fish. This will be less stress and a ton cheaper.

Clint, if you've chosen this route, I've got some xenia I can give you as well .

Bax - Glad the nanostream is working out for you. Mine's still not in, guess the 6055 isn't available yet. I'm being teased and tortured every day due to the fact that Premium Aquatics sent me the Tunze single controller, but not the nanostream. I can only play with the controller so much.

gary faulkner - Good decision, let us know how you like it. I can't tell you about price - I bought mine locally from Kingfish Aquarium.


As for my tank, yesterday I did a water change (it's been a month ) and I pruned nuisance algae for about 2 hours. I also broke out the green monti cap on the right of my tank that has been growing out over my crocea and toadstool. The crocea's been extending its mantle more than usual lately, and I think it has been a little light-hungry as a result of the shade provided by the cap. I never really liked that monti cap anyway - it had an ugly growth pattern and I think it detracted from the look of the aquascape. I also trimmed back some flatter growth on my purple-tipped monti cap. Both of these maneuvers will also serve to provide more space for acros . While I had the monti caps out, I dipped them in Lugols to make sure there were no pests, like montipora-eating nudibranchs or flatworms, and happily there were none.

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE

[fishypets]

Mike,

I have a few of your corals when you are ready.

[Dudester]

Originally posted by fishypets
Mike,

I have a few of your corals when you are ready.

Thanks, looking forward to it! I'll call you soon.

So I looked into replacing my sump return pump with an Eheim, as John suggested, but it's much too large to fit into the small return chamber of the sump. When I had the sump custom-built, it was done so with the Mag5 return pump in mind, so I can't fault the sump builder, just my lack of forethought. I guess I'm stuck with more regular maintenance, and getting another Mag5 as a backup and to make it easier during cleanings (dirty pump out, cleaned pump in, and repeat).

Remember the blasto colony that I toasted during my kalk debacle? Well, I left the skeleton in the tank, and happily I've found 4 new heads growing. Those LPS are tough creatures, for sure. Never give up on a coral!

[Rustylugnuts]

happily I've found 4 new heads growing

Very cool! Seems like I'm only a few months out as far as trying any corals. The typhoon III came in and only has about 2/3 gpd output so far. Even with the problems I would still recommend buying from this sponsor. I gave em a call and Walter spent like 20 mins troubleshooting and giving instructions on how and where to install the free pressure gauge (they weren't quite up to spec because the mount didnt make for an easy fit so they handed em out free as christmas presents to customers!). Anyway he said that we were going to MAKE this unit work when I get back even if he has to send me a new membrane and prefilters!!

[cowboyswife]

What a great thread! Thanks for sharing!

[fishypets]

Originally posted by Dudester Thanks, looking forward to it! I'll call you soon.

Once you put the fork down, call me.

[jnarowe]

Rustylugnuts: Just in case you don't already know, there are several things that effect RO/DI output:

1. temp. of water being processed;
2. TDS of water being processed;
3. Incoming water pressure;
4. Type of membrane(s) being used;
5. Blockage, kink etc. (somtimes the actual DI resin can cause a blockage particularly if there is no sponge in the DI canister.)

Just a few things to check if you haven't already.

[techreef]

Happy New Year, everybody.

I keep reading about some of you fighting w/ your SCWD's sticking or not performing properly, and thought I'd toss another water movement idea out there. When I was reading up on closed loops prior to putting water in my own glass box, I read a super-long ebboard on closed loops and good water flow patterns. Can't remember who exactly it was, but I think it was either Fenner or Calfo holding forth. Anywho, the name of the game from the author's point of view was "non-linear" AND "non-planar" water flow. Instead of using SCWD devices, they suggested building multi-nozzle CL's, and aim the various nozzles at a slight angle down into the tank, but aim them so that the various water streams coming out of the nozzles collide with each other in the tank, thereby scattering the streams in randomized patterns throughout the tank.

This is what I've built w/ my setup on my 90G. It has no moving parts other than the CL pump, which was my aim from the beginning. (no animal-eating powerheads!) I haven't had the opportunity to check out other coral reefers' tanks and see what their water flow moves like, but when I look into my tank, my shrooms and gorgonians sway in the water just as if they were in the ocean. (to my eye, at least) I don't seem to have dead spots in the tank, and I've got 205 lbs. of TBS rock in there. The nice thing about building CL's is that you're only out about $25 bucks total and a couple hours if it all turns out badly.

[Bax]

Originally posted by Dudester

So I looked into replacing my sump return pump with an Eheim, as John suggested, but it's much too large to fit into the small return chamber of the sump. When I had the sump custom-built, it was done so with the Mag5 return pump in mind, so I can't fault the sump builder, just my lack of forethought. I guess I'm stuck with more regular maintenance, and getting another Mag5 as a backup and to make it easier during cleanings (dirty pump out, cleaned pump in, and repeat).

I may have missed why you're looking to change, if it's for a little more flow? I think a Mag 7 is just a hair larger than a 5. If it's not flow, but heat, there's got to be something else that'll fit. I am, in the low flow camp 3 to 5 x display volume through the sump.

Once you get you controllable Nano Streams in there, you could run a very small Eheim or QuietOne or even a Mag 3 for return and loose your SCWD. Believe me, you will not need your return pump to contribute to total flow in the display with the streams in place. You might need to tether your fish for safety!

[Dudester]

Rustylugnuts - This is an exciting time for you, I'm sure. Hope the RO/DI unit problem is solved quickly. Incidentally, I'm using a Mako unit from AquaFX and I'm very happy with mine as well. Not a single problem in over a year.

cowboyswife - Glad you're enjoying the thread, please continue to follow along and/or contribute.

fishypets - I'm sure we're the only ones who understand your last comment, but that's okay, noone else reads this thread anyway.

jnarowe - Nice list of potential problem sources - good for us newbies .

techreef - Excellent points, my good man. I agree with everything you wrote, and I'd love to have a SICK manifold like you have over your tank. The only problem is that I don't have a canopy and I don't want all of that PVC showing over the top of my tank. A comment I would make about your statement is that, even though the return nozzles point at one another causing flow streams to collide, after some time, a consistent pattern of flow would likely be established. You hit most of the key factors of flow that are favorable for coral growth (non-planar and non-linear), but another important component of flow proposed by many experts is that it be RANDOM and chaotic. The best way to achieve this, IMO, would be by alternating currents through different outputs, which is satisfied by the SCWD. Incidentally, after my last water change a few days ago, I drained my closed loop and when it was restarted, the SCWD again began switching appropriately. So even though it has its problems (decreases flow from the CL pump, "sticks" occasionally, etc.) I continue to feel like it serves a purpose on my system.

Bax - The only reason I was looking to change my sump return pump was that my Mag5 tends to seize after every 6 weeks or so. John (thedude) hypothesized that a cooler-running pump, like an Eheim, would accumulate less calcium deposits and therefore seize less often. It was not a flow issue at all. I attend the same low-flow camp when it comes to sumps/fuges, and with a Mag5 at 5' head height, my sump flow is about 4x system volume and about 6x display volume. I'm not looking for more flow from my sump pump.
Regarding my total tank flow, you bet I'm looking for more. I am only adding a single nanostream, although it is the most powerful one. My goal from the beginning was to avoid powerheads in the tank entirely, but with my current closed loop being squelched by the SCWD I don't think that will be possible. Between the nanostream and improving the flow through my closed loop, I may just have to strap down the fish, as you suggested. Who knows, if I upgrade the CL pump and get rid of the SCWD, I may just be able to remove the nanostream from the tank. Geez, here I am getting rid of it, and I haven't even gotten it yet.

Now that the topic has been brought up, and now that you and techreef have got me thinking, what do you all think - should I get rid of the SCWD, replace it with a 1" SCWD when available, replace it with a Squirt to alternate current, or make a manifold with multiple returns like techreef suggested? Hey, I'm open to new ideas.

[techreef]

Dudester, you make a solid point about how my setup isn't random flow. Hmm. Wonder if there's something simple that I could come up w/ to achieve that? I guess the question is, how long does it take the water flow in my (or any) tank to become stabilized to one particular pattern? I assume that each time I turn off my CL, (during feeding times. Love that RK2!) when I turn it back on, the water flow from the colliding streams is random throughout the tank for some set period of time. I guess as long at it takes over 20 hours for the tank to become non-random, that would be pretty good. Maybe even 18 hours, which would leave the corals dealing with a non-random flow for 6 hours a day. Good point! It's thought provoking.

While we're brainstorming, i need a way to attach a leash to my next (and last, darnit!) midas blenny. I have covered the back of the canopy and the overflow now, so if this one can kill himself, I just give up.

[jnarowe]

manifold, manifold!!

Here's an old shot of my manifold...



Now the line going to the house filter goes to a multi-media reactor. There are four 1" return lines going to the tank, one 1" line going to the refugium, and two lines left for any future expansion.

Keep in mind that (IMO) the less mechanical parts you have, the less possibility of problems. I believe that switching flow from one line to another may put extra stress on the pump as well, depending on the situation. With a manifold you can can dial in the flow to exactly what you want in each area of your tank, it is highly flexible especially if you build in extra routes for expansion, and very cheap to build.

[techreef]

Holy smokes Jonathan. Now that is how to over-engineer the bejeezus out of something!! Shweeeet!

[jnarowe]

it's what I do.

[Bax]

Here is the CL manifold I had over my 75 g. I had 8 outlets but only used four or five at a time so I could change flow as I moved corals and rockwork.





I also had a Sea Swirl on the return and a different CL with a SCWD, no pics of that.

Here are the pumps set in a drip pan.



But then ... I got a VorTech .... muh haha muh haha!!!

[IMG][/IMG]

[jnarowe]

You crack me up Bax! Great pic of the Vortech. And I see you have the pre-release gasket!!!

[Bax]

Yes, Jonathan, I think I got a Beta model off of a club president. It has worked flawlessly, not any of the issues you've had.

[jnarowe]

very cool!

[Dudester]

techreef - I wasn't trying to criticize your setup, I'm sure your flow pattern is great. The health of your corals will be the truest and best barometer of how it's going. If I were you, I'd leave it as is and just monitor your corals. You can always re-direct the locline returns a few inches at a time every couple of weeks, and you could even alternate which ones you move around, as this would add to the "randomness." Regarding your midas blenny (I assume they've been jumping out?), try covering your tank with egg crate if you haven't done that already.

jnarowe and Bax - Nice Racks!! But seriously, those are very well-made manifolds. If I do eventually go that route, I'd probably use grey or black (painted) PVC on my system, since I'm open and visible on top. By the way guys, what does the manifold rest upon, the sides of the tank itself? In particular, Bax, it appears that the front of your manifold is just suspended and not fixed to anything other than the center brace?

[techreef]

Dudester, whoa! up there, pardner. It takes a whole lot more kidding than goes on in this thread to make me think somebody's criticizing me! No problem at all. I was seriously considering your point. I think it's a great observation. I appreciate getting critiques on my setup from smart hobbyists like y'all.

Clearly the most important thing I can change to my CL is install more vertical pipes w/ ball valves. My count has me at least 2 short of Bax, and Jon's megalomaniacal creation has at least 4 more vert's than mine. I'm getting' spanked in the CL escalation!

Thanks also for the suggestion on my blenny jumping woes. The first jumped out a 2" space along the back of my canopy before I could seal it up (kept meaning to do that...) and then, once I had that closed off, the 2nd took a magical mystical tour down my overflow's plumbing, eventually getting stuck in the ball valve leading to my skimmer intake. There's no way I can get him out of there w/o cutting that cemented valve out of the system, and while I loved the little guy, that isn't going to happen. My third and final midas arrives next Tuesday. Hopefully he is less ig'nant than the previous two. I've covered my overflow with eggcrate now, so he will need to work out some Wile E. Coyote way to off himself.

As always, this is a great thread. My manifold simply sits on top of the black plastic rim running around the top of my tank. I measured it so that it sits on the inside edge of that "rim", where there is a small lip of plastic that sticks out, helping to support the weight of the manifold. For smaller tanks, if you used black 3/4" PVC, it would barely project out above the top of your tank's top rim.

[Bax]

Dude

The CL is supported by the center brace and triangular pieces of eggcrate at each corner that you can't see in the pic, with cut outs for the nozzles. Those corner suports were very important

[Bax]

Actually, I just looked back at the pics, these pre-date the corner eggcrate modification ... it was a very important addition to the overall stability of the manifold

[jnarowe]

Dudester: Just to clarify, my manifold is sitting on top of acrylic mounts that I cemented to the overflow wall. They have rubber gasket material inserts to ensure no vibration is transmitted into the tank or viewing room. Also, I agree about the PVC color but I plan on having some sort of backround graphic later on so it won't be visible.

techreef: It's NOT "megalomaniacal" in the least bit. Now my skimmer could be considered "over-sized" perhaps! Also to clarify, I don't consider mine a CL. My manifold is fed from a Hammerhead at the sump, it feeds return lines, 4 for the tank, 1 for the fuge, and currently one for my multi-media reactor. I am not a fan of "drilled" CLs at all, but I do like the over-head ones you guys are talking about. My primary in tank flow is provided by 4 Vortech pumps, and I will be adding 2 more.

[mr.wilson]

Originally posted by jnarowe
manifold, manifold!!

Here's an old shot of my manifold...



Now the line going to the house filter goes to a multi-media reactor. There are four 1" return lines going to the tank, one 1" line going to the refugium, and two lines left for any future expansion.

Keep in mind that (IMO) the less mechanical parts you have, the less possibility of problems. I believe that switching flow from one line to another may put extra stress on the pump as well, depending on the situation. With a manifold you can can dial in the flow to exactly what you want in each area of your tank, it is highly flexible especially if you build in extra routes for expansion, and very cheap to build.

What does the Umpa Lumpa in the corner do?