Want to Start a Marine Aquarium?: A Step by Step Guide

[NanoCube-boy]

Modemagic, great tip on how much TO water should be add to the tank. Hehe, I know people doesn't want to see a flood house of salt water because of an black out. hehe

[Modemagic]

When I setup my tank with a freshwater test, I pulled the plug on the pump to see where my water would end up and such. I made my markings and figured everything out then, before I dumped fresh saltwater all over the floor. I didn't have a flood then and don't plan on it. It took a bit of extra time, but well worth it IMO.

[Azazael13]

ah I get it now, the water will always be the height of an overflow, if it ever gets lower it doesn't drain until more is added, and if it get higher it just drains quicker.

I feel silly for not understanding it earlier, I guess I just couldn't visualize it since I am using a canister filter atm and not a Sump/Fuge.

[Modemagic]

Originally posted by Azazael13
ah I get it now, the water will always be the height of an overflow, if it ever gets lower it doesn't drain until more is added, and if it get higher it just drains quicker.

I feel silly for not understanding it early, I guess I just couldn't visualize it since I am using a canister filter atm and not a Sump/Fuge.

Exactly! The return pump takes water from the sump and puts it into the display tank which always keeps the level the same in the display, lowering the water level in the sump. Before I set my tank up, I didn't completely understand either until I sat down and really thought about it some.

Thats what this thread is all about..... understanding!

[Azazael13]

Next question.

I am thinking of making a 10 gallon like Travis has. With a setup like this you could keep select corals correct? If so what kind of corals would be ok?

I need something to entice the wife into this idea, and since I know there aren't a lot of fish choices for a tank like this, what could be kept?

[mascencerro]

firefish are pretty eye-catching, clown gobies are interesting to watch too

[first-chevalier]

I've got a neat piece of pulsing pompom xenia, mushrooms, and zoanthids in my ten gallong Travis-Tank. We're probably going to try to add a hammer, torch, frogspawn, or the like. My wife alos likes the leathers wiht the fingers all over them but I don't know what they're called.

[Travis L. Stevens]

Originally posted by Azazael13
When you have a sump/refuge setup I assume water evaporates from both the tank and the sump/refuge. How does the tank stay full, or does it not stay full?

It doesn't stay full. Water will evaporate from both the sump and the display tank. You'll have to top it off by yourself. The amount of evaporation will be determined by MANY factors. Just a few is air movement, water movement, surface aggitation, heat of water, heat of air, humidity of air, and a lot more.

Originally posted by Modemagic
Best method is simply to test it... run the tank then pull the plug on the pump and see what happens. If it starts to overflow, then obviously you have too much. When you find a safe 'operating level', make a mark so you know where to topoff to. Works like a champ in my setup with no guesswork. I live in the midwest, and with storms its not uncommon to loose power for small periods of time.

Well, that's the second best method, and it should be used in conjunction with what follows. You can do some simple math to give you a near guess, and then you can test it. Nothing like going into a trial and error test completely blind

Use the following formula to determine how much water will flow from the display to the sump: (Length x Width x Height)/231=~gallons. Where Length is the legth of the Display Tank, Width is the Width of the Display tank, and Height is the Height of the weirs on the overflow, and all measurements will be in inches. So, if you have a 75g tank, the Length and Width will be 48" by 18", and the height of the teeth in the overflow (let's say 2"). Using those measurements, you can plug them into the equation and come up with (48x18x2)/231=7.480... or approximately 7-7.5 gallons. The formula is not entirely accurate, but it is within a fraction of error. So, now you know to save at least 7 gallons worth of space, and to never fill over that, or you will flood. You can use the same formula to determine how much height of your sump to leave empty by simply working the formula backwards with the Display tank's overflow amount and the dimensions of the sump. Let's say there is a 29g sump with the dimensions of 30" by 12" by ? (it doesn't matter the height of the sump for the equation). The formula will look like this: (30x12xX)/231=7.5 Once the forumla is processed, X=4.8125". So, you'll never want to fill your sump over 5" from the top. Always make sure the sump has 5" of clearance. Once you have all of that figured out, then I highly recommend testing it just as Modemagic suggested.

My sump is actually a smoked acrylic wet/dry filter, so what I did was put a ping pong ball in the return section where the water disappears from, this way I can tell at a glance where my water level is in relation to my mark since my sides are not clear.

Cool idea! I'll have to remember that.

Originally posted by NanoCube-boy
Modemagic, great tip on how much TO water should be add to the tank. Hehe, I know people doesn't want to see a flood house of salt water because of an black out. hehe

On a quick note at topping off, it will really help to do it slow over a period of time. Auto Topoff Systems are great. But, not necessary. If you do add it all at once, try to add it in an area where things won't be directly effected. For example, you don't want to toss a ton of cool water directly into your refugium, or risk harming the precious animals in there. Instead, add it to the drain or the return section.

Originally posted by Azazael13
ah I get it now, the water will always be the height of an overflow, if it ever gets lower it doesn't drain until more is added, and if it get higher it just drains quicker.

It's an easy concept, yet very difficult to grasp for most without seeing it in action. I completely understand because I was in that situation for months.

Originally posted by Modemagic
Thats what this thread is all about..... understanding!

WOOT WOOT! Exactly!

Originally posted by Azazael13
I am thinking of making a 10 gallon like Travis has. With a setup like this you could keep select corals correct? If so what kind of corals would be ok?

I need something to entice the wife into this idea, and since I know there aren't a lot of fish choices for a tank like this, what could be kept?

Yes, you should be able to keep a wide variety of select corals. Most corals that are considered "Low Light" to "Medium Light" should do fine in the tank. Make sure to research any "Medium" light corals to make sure that they will do well in the lower lighting. The fish choices are a little tighter. You'll want to keep something that either stays small, or gets medium sized and rarely moves. A few small predator fish come to mind, as well as some gobies for fish that get fairly decent sized, but don't like to venture out often.

Originally posted by mascencerro
firefish are pretty eye-catching, clown gobies are interesting to watch too

I don't recommend firefish. They quick, skiddish movements often leave them jumping out of smaller tanks. Clown Gobies are ideal candidates because of size and variety of species. And, personally, best of all is that they can be bred in captivity! That is a HUGE thing in my book.

Originally posted by first-chevalier
I've got a neat piece of pulsing pompom xenia, mushrooms, and zoanthids in my ten gallong Travis-Tank. We're probably going to try to add a hammer, torch, frogspawn, or the like. My wife alos likes the leathers wiht the fingers all over them but I don't know what they're called.

Finger Leathers Seriously. There are also Devil's Hand Leathers as well. Both should do fine in the tank.

[NanoCube-boy]

Yea, I agree with you. I usually pour my water in slowly through rear sump of my cube. That way it slow down the the process of tranfer heavy water difference to the display.

[Eclectic Taste]

You guys are making it way too complicated to determine how much water to add to sump & tank. With all pumps off, just add water to the main tank, and keep an eye on the sump. When the sump reaches nearly overflowing, that's your maximum. No math involved.

[Travis L. Stevens]

Originally posted by Eclectic Taste
You guys are making it way too complicated to determine how much water to add to sump & tank. With all pumps off, just add water to the main tank, and keep an eye on the sump. When the sump reaches nearly overflowing, that's your maximum. No math involved.

You're a math-hater Just kidding. This method can be done to, but only works on reef ready tanks.

[Travis L. Stevens]

On a side note, make sure that you have anti-syphon holes drilled in your return line to make sure that you don't accidently back syphon more than you expected.

[beerguy]

Thump

[beerguy]

[coyoteseven]

Thanks Doug...

[mascencerro]

wow.. i've been getting notifications about new posts to this thread for almost 2 months, and there were none, and finally one that actually exists.

[cdentii1]

Originally posted by mascencerro
wow.. i've been getting notifications about new posts to this thread for almost 2 months, and there were none, and finally one that actually exists.

agreed I even had 7 all at once.

[coyoteseven]

I wrote Doug v2.0.2 (Beerguy), explained the problem and through his Omnipotent UNIX Overlord powers, he fixed it.

So it seems like the thread is back on track.

Hey Travis!!!

Got any updates/hints/cheats/etc.?

[jadeguppy]

A few more questions. I'm not going to admit how many hours I have been sitting here reading this, but I started yesterday.

lighting: How do I determine how many bulbs to put over the tank? Is that with or without reflectors? I keep reading about actinic bulbs, what varieties can those be found in? How is moonlighting done? I am currently thinking about a 29g reef.

Is it detrimental to use a glass lid to reduce evaporation if I install a fan to blow under the canopy?

How do I vary the water flow direction automatically? Is an open pvc pipe better than a flat return pipe ending? What are spray bars and return manifolds?

What does LPS and SPS stand for? I know it is some type of coral, but that is all I have figured out.

Thanks!

[Travis L. Stevens]

lighting: How do I determine how many bulbs to put over the tank?

It depends on the type of lighting system, and what type of corals you want to keep.

Is that with or without reflectors?

Also depends on the lighting system, but it's always good to reflect back some of the light from the canopy to the tank.

I keep reading about actinic bulbs, what varieties can those be found in?

Most commonly, there are 420-460 nanometers wavelengths. This gives the animals a variety of UV light (I can never remember if it is UV A, B, or C) that is needed for life. Incandescent bulbs naturally give off some UV while fluorescent bulbs are pretty strict at what wavelength that they burn at. That's why you see so many fluorescent setups with an actinic bulb in it versus metal halides only occassionally have actinic bulbs as supplemental lighting. On the other hand, the visual appeal of the animals in the tank increases as certain pigments in the tissue of animals, corals especially, tend to glow and fluoresce under the actinics. It works very similar to a Black Light (though Black Lights put off a different wavelength).

How is moonlighting done?

So far, there are no studies that prove moonlights give any beneficial effect to the aquarium or the inhabitants. It's more or less visual appeal.

Is it detrimental to use a glass lid to reduce evaporation if I install a fan to blow under the canopy?

As is, yes glass lids are very detremintal. Granted, you're attempt to fix the problems. It could be done described as you did, but the downfalls outweigh the benefits. It will be easier to keep the tank cool and have good gas exchange without lids, and it will also allow the maximum amount of light in instead of deflecting it through the glass lids. If you're worried about things getting in or out, you can always use Light Diffuser (AKA Eggcrate) to keep things where they should be.

How do I vary the water flow direction automatically?

You'll need to purchase or make (if you're DIY savvy) something that automatically moves or turns on and off things like powerheads. Research in the DIY Forum here on Reef Central, and look on google for Wavemakers, Oceans Motion, SCWD, and a variety of other products.

Is an open pvc pipe better than a flat return pipe ending?

Depends on what type of flow you want. The benefits are minimal, so you might as well save yourself some trouble and leave it open ended. You could purchase something like LocLine and use some of their attachments.

What are spray bars

A bar that runs across the entire (or portion) length of the tank (usually the back). It is placed just under the water surface and capped at the end. Along the length of this bar are little holes drilled in it. Instead of one large hole dumping out massive amounts of water from the return pump, they are instead divided amongst all the holes.

and return manifolds?

This is similar to a spray bar, but the plumbing is above the water and makes an entire, enclosed loop around the top of the tank. On these loops are sections that branch off and point back in to the aquarium. Most people use LocLine for the flexibility, but hard plumbing isn't unheard of.

What does LPS and SPS stand for? I know it is some type of coral, but that is all I have figured out.

It's a term used in the aquarium trade to differentiate two different types of skeleton forming corals. LPS stands for Large Polyped Stony coral, and SPS stands for Small Polyped Stony coral. An example of an LPS would be Acanthastrea, Trachyphyllia, Lobophyllia, Euphyllia, etc. An example of an SPS would be Acropora, Montipora, Anacropora, etc. Just plug in those Genus names in a google image search, and you'll immediately see the difference.

[jadeguppy]

Many on this thread have suggested Lights of America bulbs. I spoke with the guy at Lowes and they not only don't carry the bulbs, but can't order them. After looking at their bulbs, they have some T5, but they run at 3,500K, a few metal halides ($10, I think), and a Bright Effects bulb that fits into LOA fixtures and runs at 6,500K. I couldn't get any information on power compacts. I also couldn't find compact flourescents that rated 6,500k or higher.

If I understood, the output needs to be atleast 6,500k to be in the spectrum that the corals need. Right now the only bulb I can find that I can also make a fixture for is the metal halide. Any suggestions or enlightenments?? i would like the versitility of having some "needer" corals, at least at the top area of the tank, but I do also intend to use mushrooms and the like.

The moonlight question was meant to be more of a hardware question. I like the effect at night and want to work it in if I have room.

BTW, thanks again. This is an awesome thread.

[Travis L. Stevens]

Many on this thread have suggested Lights of America bulbs. I spoke with the guy at Lowes and they not only don't carry the bulbs, but can't order them.

Lowe's doesn't deal with the Supplier. WalMart does, but no longer carries Lights of America brand. They now carrt GE. Luckily, I have seen a few GE bulbs that were in the 6500ºK range.

After looking at their bulbs, they have some T5, but they run at 3,500K,

These are Normal Output versions of T5's. While not as effective and bright as their High Output brethren, they can still be used on a reef tank following the generally same rules as T8NO or T6NO.

a few metal halides ($10, I think),

These are in the wrong Kelvin temperature. You might be able to find a 6500ºK MH, but it won't look very good on a reef tank. It will do the job though.

and a Bright Effects bulb that fits into LOA fixtures and runs at 6,500K.

This should work.

I couldn't get any information on power compacts. I also couldn't find compact flourescents that rated 6,500k or higher.

Generally not. In fact, you'll be lucky to find any lighting system higher than 6500ºK at a regular retail or wholesale store. Anything higher than 6500ºK is usually for aquarium specialty and will need to be ordered through such a source.

If I understood, the output needs to be atleast 6,500k to be in the spectrum that the corals need.

Correct. I've seen 5500ºK used before, but it wasn't even worth the effort.

Right now the only bulb I can find that I can also make a fixture for is the metal halide. Any suggestions or enlightenments?? i would like the versitility of having some "needer" corals, at least at the top area of the tank, but I do also intend to use mushrooms and the like.

You can easily use a 6500ºK Metal Halide, but you'll need to make sure that you get the correct ballast to power it. The specific wattage on a Metal Halide ballast will only power that type of bulb, and nothing else. For example, a 250w MH Ballast will only power 250w MH's. Not 175w or 150w.

The moonlight question was meant to be more of a hardware question. I like the effect at night and want to work it in if I have room.

I completely understand there. I like moonlights too. You'll want to make sure not to have them too bright or it could mess with your livestocks' heads. Some simple blue LEDs should do. Our local club, Central Oklahoma Marine Aquarium Society, has done a few DIY workshops on building your own moonlights. Read more about them here: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hlight=diy+led

[jadeguppy]

I am now thinking power compacts. While researching I ran across a canopy that had two fans, I think $4 each installed. The cool things is that the fans had LED lights on them and created a moonlight effect. Does anyone have a clue where that posting/ picture is? a.k.a. the LED fan in a haystack??

[jadeguppy]

Found the fan posting.

[Travis L. Stevens]

I don't know about the fan posting, but I'm sure you can get these fans at a computer parts store or online vendor such as TigerDirect or NewEgg. A word of warning if you are building a reef tank, before purchasing the lighting system sit down with as many reference books to corals as you can. Look through each page and write down each coral that you think you would want in your dream tank. Then do some research on the individual coral itself. You might find that some corals don't fair well in captivity, but it will give you a look at what lighting requirements you might need. Always purchase lighting requirements that will suit the most demanding of your favorite corals. You can always find a shady spot for corals that' prefer lower lighting.