Via Aqua Chiller Calibration

[Pbrown3701]

i have this via aqua chiller that i got for $200 new. Over time, the temperature calibration has migrated upward.

So now, the chiller thinks it's 84° when the tank is actually 79° and the chiller kicks on. The maximum "on" temp you can set the chiller at is 84, so i can't just up the temp.

It runs almost non-stop now.

My question is does anyone know if there is a calibration screw or anyway to calibrate the temperature sensor in one of these things?

[easttn]

I do't think there is a potentiometer that can be set, but I could be wrong. There are a bunch of potential failure modes, but if you think the chiller is just not reading correctly then replace the thermocouple. Its a 2-wire device connected to the display board. Also check to see if the T/C is properly attached to chiller coils.

There is typically a letter designation on the t/c, make sure you buy the same type if that's the problem. Keep posting.

[Bryan]

Via Aqua chillers are notorious for failing temp controllers. Search for a thread on RC on bypassing the onboard controller and use your own such as a Ranco.

[Pbrown3701]

Thanks guys.

I searched RC and found only 1 thread with via aqua chiller info and it didn't talk about bypassing the controller. However, I think it would be pretty easy to figure out how with a multimeter. I'll try that when I get a chance.

Buying a new thermocouple would run about 50-70 bucks and then there would be no assurance that it would fix the problem. Plus, it's rare for thermocouples to go bad. It's more likely they circuit reading the tcouple voltage. So i'll probablly go the Ranco route.

[FuzzyLogic]

Here's the thread. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=333810

[Pbrown3701]

great! Thanks fuzzy

[Pbrown3701]

So i have a dual stage Ranco temp controller on the way.

I'm wondering if there's a way to keep the temp controller on the chiller powered up but not controlling. It has this annoying habit of beeping when the power goes out.....but this could be a good "power outtage alarm" for free.

[easttn]

Expensive, and ridiculous solution. You bought another manufacturers LED readout solution to Band-Aid yours. GL.

[BruiseAndy]

Originally posted by easttn
Expensive, and ridiculous solution. You bought another manufacturers LED readout solution to Band-Aid yours. GL.

Not quite sure how that contributed at all to the thread. Ranco controllers if set up correctly will run 10+ years. Why on earth would he want to buy an OEM controller that would most likely cost twice as much and are known to be problematic. Use a relay or contactor to bring the load on and use the controller to bring on the relay or contactor.

[easttn]

Don't mind me, I'm just watching.

[Pbrown3701]

Originally posted by easttn
Expensive, and ridiculous solution. You bought another manufacturers LED readout solution to Band-Aid yours. GL.

lol. And may I ask, just what would you recommend? Let me guess......freeze jugs of water every day?

[Pbrown3701]

Originally posted by BruiseAndy
Not quite sure how that contributed at all to the thread. Ranco controllers if set up correctly will run 10+ years. Why on earth would he want to buy an OEM controller that would most likely cost twice as much and are known to be problematic. Use a relay or contactor to bring the load on and use the controller to bring on the relay or contactor.

Andy - do you think that running relays instead of the load will make that big a difference? Have you heard of problems running the Ranco directly to the load? It's a lot of trouble if it only shortens the life of the controller by a year...

[BruiseAndy]

Much more than a year. Rancos that are run directly to an inductive load are shortlive (2yrs or so) due to the inrush exceeding the load rating of the contacts. whereas the rancos ive installed to control low voltage connections in equipment i work on last much longer.

[Pbrown3701]

alright. I'll run relays then. Thanks.

[Pbrown3701]

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1149765