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#1
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Need to test 250W bulbs
I just ordered 2x250W bulbs and put them in my fixture and neither fires. I did also replace both of my ballasts. NOw I don't know what part of the system isn't working. COudl be the ballasts although both are still humming. COuld be the capacitors or the bulbs and if it isn't one of those three, then I have no clue what the problem is. So I need to eliminate the bulbs to start with. BTW, I know it's not my wiring ability because I got the manufacturing to tell me which wire to connect to which
Anybody that runs 250W bulbs that lives close to COventry that could let me test out my bulbs? |
#2
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what did you have before try putting the old bulbs back in and see what happens
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#3
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Unfortunately the old bulbs were 175W. When both my ballasts and my bulbs burned out, I figured if I have to replace them all, I might as well upgrade to 250W.
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#4
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it was just a thought maybe someone has a tester for the current or take it to you local LFS maybe they can help.
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#5
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Are the ballasts rated for 250w? Different ballasts for diff wattage bulbs could be the problem. I could be wrong but I don't think 175w ballasts will fire 250w bulbs. You need 250w ballasts.
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-Cato "Common sense is so rare it's often mistaken for genius" |
#6
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Ooops I think I misunderstood your post. You do have 250w ballasts. Then what kind. HQI, electronic... I read somewhere that if the power supply cord is too long it could cause the bulbs not to fire. My CoralVue ballasts (electronic) also noted to shorten the supply cords to the light fixture if they don't fire. I guess if they're too long it decreases line voltage needed to fire the bulb?? IDK. Mine worked OK so I left it alone. HTH
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-Cato "Common sense is so rare it's often mistaken for genius" |
#7
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Yes, I installed 250W ballasts when my 175W stopped working. So then I also ordered 250W bulbs. But it still doesn't work. I don't think the problem lies with the ballasts because they both hum (my old 175W ballasts didn't say peep). But the capacitors could be shorted out (did I mention I had a small miswiring problem before and started having smoke coming out of the ballast box. whoops!). But I rewired everything correctly now (No more smoke or anything). HOwever that process may have cooked the capacitors. COuldn't have cooked both bulbs because I only had one plugged in and the miswiring immediately made the powerstrip turn off. So it's either a problem with the bulbs or the capacitors. I could test the capcitors with an ohm meter but unfortunately that one is still at my old house in OH
What a pain in the butt. Sometimes doing things all yourself is a great way to safe money and other times you wish you had just gone to the store and bought a whole new system. |
#8
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I don't think the power cord is a problem. THis is a Hamilton Tech fixture that cost over $500. THe ballasts are the coil type. It worked fine before with the 175W ballasts and bulbs.
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#9
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Have you opened up the ballast casing and inspect all the wiring?
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-Cato "Common sense is so rare it's often mistaken for genius" |
#10
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Are you using the capacitor from the 175W MH kit? If so, can you do that?
175W - 10 uF (microfarad) 250W - 15 uF I am not experienced with the magnetic ballasts for the MH's (mine is electronic) but this is what I have found online. I also do not know the effects of using the "wrong" sized capacitor.
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--MIKE-- |
#11
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You replaced the ballast without replacing the capacitors? They may not be the same value of capacitors needed for different wattages.
Also, are the bulbs appropriate for the ballasts? (pulse start bulbs don't work on probe start ballasts)
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Greg Visit our CTARS club website by clicking the 'red house' icon above :) |
#12
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No no, the new ballasts came with appropriate capacitors.
The bulbs are reeflux and are appropriate for the M58 ballasts. I made sure the check that before ordering. |
#13
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Well, you know what they say about letting the smoke out of something - the smoke is what makes it work, and if the smoke gets out, it won't work anymore. :-(
You mentioned one had the smoke because of mis-wiring, but the other did not, and yet neither of them light?
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--MIKE-- |
#14
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WEll, I couldn't tell from which the smoke was coming because they are housed together in a box. But after I opened the box, only one of them had turned a bit black around the coils and smelled weird. But both of them still hum when plugged in (now htat they are both correctly wirerd)
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#15
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def try to replace the capacitors mine burned out a couple of years ago and i bought a new capacitor from Grainger, worked like a charm after that, although the bulbs burned at diff temps...? maybe the capacitor was different from the original.... Good luck
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~RICH~ |
#16
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Do you see anything that looks like solder inside the ballast box? Is the end of the cap still intact? Can you take some photos of the inside of the ballast box for me? Do you have access to a multimeter?
What did you wire incorrectly? Jon |
#17
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There is nothing inside the ballast box that looks like solder. Yes the end of the capacitors are still intact (assuming that's what "cap") stood for. Yes I have a multimeter and tried to use it to measure the resistance across the capacitor and got no reading at all. Not sure exactly what was miswired. I can take pics of inside of ballast box but may I ask why or what you are looking for?
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#18
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just wondering what up with the pc you never answered me ?
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#19
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I was just curious to see if there was an ignitor present. In all the instances where I have seen a cap/capacitor go bad the cap will leak... hence the solder comment.
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