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  #76  
Old 07/21/2004, 06:03 PM
SPC SPC is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjwilson37
His tank was Acrylic and they are alot lighter and a bit more forgiving on sitting on a perfect surface compared to a glass aquarium.
Yes, this method is always used on acrylic tanks, but , if acylic is more forgiving, then why is the plywood and foam necessary under them, but Oceanic does not use this on their glass tanks?
Steve
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  #77  
Old 07/21/2004, 07:20 PM
bulldog12 bulldog12 is offline
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I WANT MORE UPDATED PICTURES!!!!!
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  #78  
Old 07/21/2004, 08:40 PM
rjwilson37 rjwilson37 is offline
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Your stand can't be out of level, it is just sometimes a piece of plywood once it is nailed or screwed down may have little bumps in it to make it not totally flat. By using the foam padding, that little bump disappears, where if there was not foam padding, that little bump when LR is put in the tank can cause a stress crack in the glass from all the weight. I am not sure if it can be as serious on an acrylic tank compared to a glass tank, but the foam is inexpensive and I used it under my acrylic tank. I figure why tank chances as I have seen many tank setup's and they use the foam under the tank to avoid stress cracks.
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24g Aquapod
MJ 900
Standard Pump
Standard 72w PC Lighting

Last edited by rjwilson37; 07/21/2004 at 09:17 PM.
  #79  
Old 07/21/2004, 08:44 PM
rjwilson37 rjwilson37 is offline
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SPC, if someone is out of wack by 3/4" on their stand when they build it, all I have to say is... Back to the drawing board.
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24g Aquapod
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  #80  
Old 07/21/2004, 09:04 PM
weatherson weatherson is offline
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Nails should not be used for attaching the top on a stand. There's a possibility they will rise. Screws are much better suited and they should always be countersunk. It's also a good idea to sand the top board well prior to painting.

Joseph
  #81  
Old 07/21/2004, 09:21 PM
cmiannay cmiannay is offline
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Can't wait to see it finished!

Cindy
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  #82  
Old 07/21/2004, 09:29 PM
rjwilson37 rjwilson37 is offline
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Yep, this is going to be a good thread. I love it when Marc is working on a new project and it is picture intensive!
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24g Aquapod
MJ 900
Standard Pump
Standard 72w PC Lighting
  #83  
Old 07/21/2004, 09:33 PM
starmanres starmanres is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by cmiannay
Can't wait to see it finished!

Cindy


CINDY...

Now that's fun!

Robert
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  #84  
Old 07/22/2004, 01:44 AM
melev melev is offline
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Okay, just got done with the water heater project. Whew!!!

While it was draining, I went and got all new CPVC plumbing fittings, as well as more wiring for the water heater since its location further away. I'm trying to avoid any trips up into the attic at this point if possible.

While the water heater was accessible, I went ahead and cleaned out the waste at the base:



We are supposed to do this yearly. This is the sediment that accumulates over time, probably by the calcium deposits that form on the heating elements. I really don't know what causes it precisely, but I do know it builds up in the base of our heaters, and eventually it can build up so high that the element fails. Where I used to live, the water quality was so bad that I could fill up a 5 gallon bucket with what looked like Crushed Coral substrate!

I've lived here for a few years, and this wasn't really that much sediment, but the water is so much better here.

Next, I cut out the old copper plumbing, and sweated on some new connections the convert to CPVC. You can see the three stages in this picture. The middle is the drain line for when the water heater's Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve blows.



Here is a picture of the new plumbing running along the front of the wall. I left enough space to slide in the sheetrock later. I'll also put insulation in the spaces, to dampen any sound.

]

This is where the plumbing goes to the water heater. I have a plan but I don't know if it will work. If it doesn't, I'll just cap it off. My idea was that I'd use the cold water line going to the water heater for an RO/DI unit. The waste water can go down the tall drainpipe.

However, two things have occured since I made this transition. #1) when I tested the TPRV on the heater, water did come out the top of the pipe, which I hoped would not. Solution? Put a cap on it, and thread in a John Guest fitting so the drainline will push water down the line, but not have the water heater push water out the top and spray water all over the fish room. #2) I only discovered this evening that the drain leads to a spot on my patio, so if I did run my RO/DI unit, waster water would always be flowing across the concrete.

So, I'll have to do some thinking about this. Of course, because my RO/DI unit is only about 25 feet away from this spot, I could run a piece of tubing through the attic and into the fish room for easy access.



And finally, this is the junction box where the old 220v and the new 220v lines connect. The old wiring is stranded aluminum, the new is single-strand copper. I used some anti-oxidant in the wire nuts.



Next step is to make the cut-out in the wall, and build the stand so I can sheetrock. I'll use the green sheetrock as it can handle moisture better.

From reading y'alls comments today, it looks like foam is out, but screwing down the platform is wise. Thanks!
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  #85  
Old 07/22/2004, 02:06 AM
weatherson weatherson is offline
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Wow. That's an incredible amount of sediment buildup that drained from your water heater. I guess I am lucky here with our water quality.

As to the RO/DI drain, you may also consider running the drain line from the unit out the attic to some more suitable location. That is if you prefer having the RO unit in the tank room.

It's coming along nicely and looking good. I was skeptical of the two week time frame but you are making a believer out of me.

Joseph
  #86  
Old 07/22/2004, 02:10 AM
bulkhead bulkhead is offline
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Yep, he definately works harder than I would considering how hot it has to be there, this time of year. I know it was near 100 here today and I'm north of Marc and he has much higher humidity to deal with.... Or, maybe I'm just lazy.....nah! couldn't be...
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  #87  
Old 07/22/2004, 02:31 AM
melev melev is offline
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A number of club members have volunteered to help move the new tank into its location this Sunday, so I can't sit on my hands and do nothing.

My goal at this point is to have as much done as possible so that we can slide the tank in place and refill it with the water.

Joseph, that is a good idea about running the wasteline somewhere. Hmmm. Btw, I was told you bought Hawaiian base rock for your tank. Can you tell me where you got it and what it cost? That might be the solution, because I'm going to need about 150 lbs to reach the total of 350 lbs of LR.
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  #88  
Old 07/22/2004, 02:36 AM
MargaritaMan MargaritaMan is offline
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Does your building code allow you to run PVC from your water heater? I have no idea, it just strikes me as odd. Thanks for listening while I think out loud. MM
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  #89  
Old 07/22/2004, 02:39 AM
weatherson weatherson is offline
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Marc,
Yes and they sell on EBay. Click HERE for their auctions. They also have a website (look on the auctions for the link) that they sell through but I believe you can get it cheaper through an auction. Here's a shot of it after a thorough cleaning. It's all now completely coralline encrusted.



Joseph
  #90  
Old 07/22/2004, 03:00 AM
melev melev is offline
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MM, while I was at Home Depot, I explained what I was going to do and the plumber didn't seem to be concerned. No red flags went up. And Chris posted earlier in this thread that he's been doing so in his rental properties. Sure hope I don't have to redo it!

Around 1am I accidentally set off the panic alarm while working in the garage. I guess my key fob was depressed in my pocket while I was doing something, and the police came out to see if a forced entry was occuring. I'd already deactivated the alarm, and ADT had not called so I figured all was fine. However, they had called the police, who were quick to respond. He saw my plumbing and didn't seem concerned. Matter of fact, he's going to come by again once the tank is set up.

Thanks Joseph, I sent an email to the seller. Now no-one go bid on the rocks that are ending today.

What did you do to clean your rock, once it arrived?
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  #91  
Old 07/22/2004, 03:27 AM
weatherson weatherson is offline
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I say if the policeman didn't have an issue with the plumbing, it MUST be fine.
To clean the rock I blasted it with a garden hose (yes, regular tap water) for what must have taken over an hour. I then let it completely dry by letting it bake in the summer 100-degree sunshine for about a week. I suppose I could have let it soak after this in a tub of saltwater but didn't consider this at the time.

Joseph
  #92  
Old 07/22/2004, 05:06 AM
gho gho is offline
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Marc,

A couple of notes about the water heater:
#1 - I don't think PVC is recommended for hot water piping (see this link on how to install a hot water heater ) note where it says " Don't try to hook up a water heater with PVC, PE or ABS plastic piping, since these will not take hot water."

Copper pipes are easy enough to work with, you just need to get a torch and some solder, which it looks like you already have

#2 - Be sure to brace long lenths of pipe. Braces limit the amount of bending and stressing on the pipes when the water is turned on and shut off. These screw into the studs and are easy and cheap to install.

#3 - Can't see the bottom of your heater, but make sure the water heater is on a raised platform (a reinforced plywood box is good).

With all the things that can go wrong, I advise you check the building codes in your area and make sure you are doing things correctly (I'd hate to see something happen to your house, on the account cutting a few corners).

Also when you cut the studs make sure you frame it properly and make sure you don't cut any load-bareing beams, otherwise you could have problems with your roof caving in.

Looking good so far though. It's amazing how much you accomplished so quickly. Do you even have time left to do your normal job?
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  #93  
Old 07/22/2004, 05:14 AM
SOMEthinsFISHY SOMEthinsFISHY is offline
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I just drained my newer water tank and it was not that bad but a great idea !
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  #94  
Old 07/22/2004, 05:15 AM
RGibson RGibson is offline
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marc you need to put a chech valve in the cold water line so hot water will not back up into the RO
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  #95  
Old 07/22/2004, 05:15 AM
gho gho is offline
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Just looked at your pics again. Note the top horizontal beams are double studs - these are load bearing beams. You will either have to relocate them or somehow work around it - all this depends on whats on top and how your house is laid out.

You may want to have a contractor stop by and check things out and perhaps give you a few pointers. I would if I were in the area (I've done quite a bit of construction work myself & my mother is a general contractor), but maybe one other RC member closeby can help you out.

Just remember an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of heartache (or what was that stupid saying?)
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  #96  
Old 07/22/2004, 05:39 AM
maxxII maxxII is offline
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Quote:
I say if the policeman didn't have an issue with the plumbing, it MUST be fine.
Hmmmm....
Joseph,
I know you were only kidding, but just for others who might not have known, Police officers arent taught plumbing code requirements, (at least here in Missouri...), I can tell by looking that your plates are bad/stolen/expired etc, and I can arrest your abusive spouse/boyfriend/partner, but I'm not gonna know if your plumbing is bad by looking at it unless I see something hazardous, like Meth lab connected to it.
Just to be on the safe side, unless you really know what you're doing, (and it honestly looks like you do), I'd have a contractor come out and take a look.
Looks great BTW,
Nick
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  #97  
Old 07/22/2004, 05:54 AM
MarLooney MarLooney is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
...plus of course I'll have to build a sump for it, because the one that comes with it is not to my liking.
i knew that was bound to happen! i love your sump designs. i can't wait to see what you have in store for a tank this size.


anyone seen Joe dirt? just reminded me of a scene... LMAO!!
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  #98  
Old 07/22/2004, 07:36 AM
thewuf thewuf is offline
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To all those questioning his load bearing walls, design, etc. ....

Read!

He just covered this last page...

Quote:
Joseph, this isn't a load-bearing wall, and my roof is made of trusses. I had a framer come over to discuss this corner, and he told me I could tear out all the interior walls of my house and it would still stand. That being said, when I cut out the corner, I'll probably hold my breath and watch for disaster for.... I dont know...90 seconds?
Carry on Marc! Some of love watching you and Weatherson work!

BTW, this...

Quote:
i knew that was bound to happen! i love your sump designs.
Makes me happy!
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  #99  
Old 07/22/2004, 08:01 AM
nvillacci nvillacci is offline
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CPVC is rated for hot water, hopefully that is what Marc used (words of wisdom from ex-airforce engineer)
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  #100  
Old 07/22/2004, 08:20 AM
lovetoreef lovetoreef is offline
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Looks great Marc ... with regards to the base rock, I contacted the seller and ordered 60 lbs from him, but I asked for large pieces only (I can always fill in small pieces of LR easier than I can the large pieces) - the price worked out to be about the same price if you had won the auction. I am supposed to receive the box today, so we will see. Good luck.

gm
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