North Dakota Mini-Ocean - Page 4

Reefaquariumnut · #76 12/14/2007, 03:11 PM

I would like huge rocks not just a pile of rubble. I haven't given much thought to putting the rocks on racks vs sand...I will have some piping in the sand for my CL systems, so I will have to see at that point what makes sense. I will put a drawing up to show you what I am thinking for aquascaping and water flow around the tank.

spazz · #77 12/14/2007, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hahnmeister

Ive always been happy with the Eco-Rocks from 2-part solution, but I dont know if they have rocks large enough for what you need.
http://www.twopartsolution.com/index...ed780ac594917c

i was just over there last week and they have some new dry rock in stock. its not on there site yet buy its some really sweet stuff. i think he called it tonga shelf rock. the pieces are beautiful.

Reefaquariumnut · #78 12/14/2007, 03:51 PM

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Okay so let me try and explain this quick drawing.

I have (4) returns on the four corners of my tank that will be powered by a 1-2 barracuda's. Then in the center of my tank I have one closed loop system drilled with space for a second. My thought was to have the CL returns hidden in the rocks at various angles to create a turbulent flow in every direction. The CL intake(s) would also be hidden in the rock with some kind of screening for protection. I could also keep the intake(s) out of the rock on the room side of the tank (out of sight). I may need some flow in the four lower corners of the tank...I have also prepared to add a surge tank or two if needed.

jnarowe · #79 12/14/2007, 04:19 PM

I think you should step back a bit and think about other options. Surge tanks are great and obviously Scott will help you with that, but what about built-in wave boxes?

Picture this: NO HOLES in the tank, superior flow, low electrical usage, no achilles heel.

What I am describing is building into the tank something similar to Tunze wave boxes. Very low to zero visual polution, very high flow, controllable flow, and if one goes bad, you still have the others. Also operational on backup battery...you could pulse them, create waves, have night mode, storm mode, whatever your heart desires. This would also free up your aquascaping so that you would not be tied down to hiding plumbing. Almost like built-in surge tanks.

Just food for thought.

Reefaquariumnut · #80 12/14/2007, 04:25 PM

Well since I already have holes in the bottom of my tank I think I almost must have one closed loop...I do like your suggestion of a built-in wave box. I will run it by Scott when he comes and I am sure after 2 days with him we will have 1000 ideas of which 10 we will ultimately use for the tank. Thanks for the great ideas, please keep em coming!!

jnarowe · #81 12/14/2007, 04:29 PM

I know Scott would be able to build sweet wave boxes. The good thing about having one closed loop is that you can use it for water processing like chiller/heater, ground loop etc. I just prefer no holes. I didn't realize the holes were already drilled, so that kind of makes my post moot. BUT, my tank had a lot of holes in it, and I patched over most of them. No reason to add risk when there are so many ways to skin this cat.

Bax · #82 12/14/2007, 04:41 PM

This build is just great! You are lucky to have Spazz along for the ride too! Very cool work on the tank dislay!

spazz · #83 12/14/2007, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jnarowe
I know Scott would be able to build sweet wave boxes.

the only wave boxes i know of are the tunze wave boxes and there very bulky. describe the type of wave box you are talking about. im interested to know how you build them. there has to be some sort of pump on a special tunable timing system or computer controlled system to speed it up and slow it down.

Elliott · #84 12/14/2007, 04:55 PM

yet another way to skin the cat...

read Luke's thread about variable frequency device pump control to create very natural surge through a closed loop:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1183020&perpage=&pagenumber=1

I just purchased a device like this and will be installing it soon.

Reefaquariumnut · #85 12/14/2007, 05:45 PM

Basically it boils down to this...I wanna find the happy medium between technology and simplicity. I would like my wife/friends able to maintain the tank if I ever should be gone. I don't want so much technology that i need to call someone everytime something fails...I want proven methods with multiple fail-safes and as much system automazation as possible.

Turbo5oh · #86 12/14/2007, 06:23 PM

hey looks great so far, if u need a local hand with something let me know.

maybe i missed it but who built the stand? and what size steel did u use. the reason i ask is im building one for a used 8ft 240 gal

jnarowe · #87 12/14/2007, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by spazz
the only wave boxes i know of are the tunze wave boxes and there very bulky. describe the type of wave box you are talking about. im interested to know how you build them. there has to be some sort of pump on a special tunable timing system or computer controlled system to speed it up and slow it down.

This is just theoretical right now, but I have been discussing this with Steve Weast a bit. They are only "bulky" if they are inside the tank, or at least perceived that way. I am not feeling well but I will try to explain. Please keep in mind this is not my idea but comes from Steve...

In this pic you see the backside of the tank but in sections rather than a solid piece of acrylic. It can be done in many ways, but here I chose to have two verflow boxes and three waveboxes. Within the waveboxes are Tunze or other CONTROLLABLE powerhead. So you not only get the flow of the powerhead, but also the added flow of the wave. I am not sure what the math is on this, but FWIU, waves multiply flow.

This is a quick rendering of what it might look like from the viewing pane, but of course, with no aquascape. Waveboxes could be put anywhere around the tank based on proposed aquascaping.

The net result is extremely low visual polution, no bulkheads between the tank and the outside world (so no possible leaks), tremendous flow, controllable flow with whatever modes you can dream up, easy maint., extremely low electrical consumption per gph etc.

Here is a link to a demo wavebox and that is a lot of water movement for just one box. These are internal wave boxes but there is no reason for them to stick out like that when there are skilled builders like Scott and James.

Google wavebox and you will find all sorts of videos. I hope I have communicated this idea well enough.

Reefaquariumnut · #88 12/14/2007, 08:21 PM

The stand was built from 3/16" wall tube steel by straight-line design in Detroit Lakes, MN (www.straightlinedesign.net).

Elliott · #89 12/14/2007, 08:37 PM

jnarowe: so, it's essentially a wavebox mounted on the outside of the tank? seems like a good idea to me

jnarowe · #90 12/14/2007, 08:45 PM

yes, or it could be internal like many overflows are, but with the panel the entire length of the tank...either way, they are "external" to the display area.

Elliott · #91 12/14/2007, 09:05 PM

jnarowe: hey, the new "wave tank" by Tunze! I'd buy one

jnarowe · #92 12/14/2007, 10:21 PM

I think the new Wave Tank will be by Scott or James at Envision.

redwinger02 · #93 12/15/2007, 12:49 PM

Here are the wavebox's I designed for my old 120. Reefmania built the tank for me. This worked better than planned.

Video in action

redwinger02 · #94 12/15/2007, 12:55 PM

Also for you closed loop you might consider this. This is a closed loop live rock rack. It was powered by a dart pump. The intakes sit under the gutter guard screen. These were able to be directed where ever I needed the flow and were virtually invisible in the tank. I liked this design as it hid all the plumbing from view.

And covered in rock

jnarowe · #95 12/15/2007, 01:08 PM

Great posts redwinger02. So the Wave boxes are open topped? I am interested in what seems to be a reverse design with the pump higher in the box and slots below. What is the reasoning behind this?

redwinger02 · #96 12/15/2007, 01:19 PM

I did them up higher as the tank was sps dominant and most of the sps were up higher and wanted more flow hitting them then if the tunzes were lower. Either would work fine. The tops were open and the water would go all the way to the top when turning on and off. I still got the wave action in a four foot tank with this design. The original plan was that I wanted everything out of site and figured this was the best way to do it. Incidentally I had hoped they would work as wave box's and they did just that.

Spazz could do these on custom tank builds with the cnc. These were were hand made and can't imagine what a pain it was to cut the slots individually.

jnarowe · #97 12/15/2007, 01:34 PM

Very nice. The slots aren't needed IMO, but I guess to keep animals out right? I think I would use removable slots like I have on my overflow. How did you decide which Tunze to use?

redwinger02 · #98 12/15/2007, 05:08 PM

I had the 6100's to begin with and I just used them.

"Umm, fish?" · #99 12/15/2007, 05:37 PM

Hey redwinger02! Thanks for sharing the ideas. How hard were the under-rock CL manifolds to service?

redwinger02 · #**100** 12/15/2007, 10:28 PM

The racks were meant to setup and never be maintained. The way the intakes were set up with the gutter guard let the stuff that i wanted to get though get through but yet keep the big stuff out. (fish,snail, crabs) Algae is not going to grow on them as they are out of the light and buried under rock. Sponge might be the only issue but the surface area of the intake is so large that it is highly unlikely for it to ever be a issue. Ok did not mean to highjack this thread.