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  #1  
Old 03/08/2006, 04:14 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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For You Guys With Controllers

Just in case you have high powered devices plugged into your controller powerstrip, I would advice against it because these heavy loads can often burn out powerstrips. Here is a diagram of what I use at home for my Chiller, but it will also work on MH or any other device. This will work for all Aquatronica, Neptune etc. users.

It basicaly puts the Power Load back onto the Main's and uses almost no power from the PowerBar.



I made this drawing in MS Paint while at work so I don't have the relay in front of me but I will confirm the wiring tonite when I get home. Only possible mixup may be the Relay 2 front pins instead of 2 middle pins.

The whole thing costs about $20 and consists of the following

1) Radio Shack Relay cat#275-217
2) A short Heavy Duty 3 Prong Extension cord
3) A small light duty 2 Prong Extension cord

optional:
The Realy can be put into an interchangeble socket, in case it burns out. Radio Shack Part #275-220
  #2  
Old 03/08/2006, 04:49 PM
Entropy Entropy is offline
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That is pretty cool! Digital Aquatics came out with something very similar for the Reefkeeper. It allows you to run two hi current items off a seperate power strip that is connect and controlled to the main unit. Same concept, but more expensive (but not skills involved). Thanks for sharing!
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  #3  
Old 03/08/2006, 04:59 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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Your welcome, it's real easy to make, about 30 minutes . You can use a solder iron or crimp on ends if soldering is a problem.
  #4  
Old 03/08/2006, 06:41 PM
asnatlas asnatlas is offline
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Are you able to take a pic of yours ?? I would like to see it...
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  #5  
Old 03/08/2006, 06:45 PM
grego grego is offline
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yes, the pic please.
  #6  
Old 03/08/2006, 08:29 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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I will try to get one in the Morning. Yeech I am going to have to pull off a bunch of black tape to make it all visible.
  #7  
Old 03/09/2006, 06:30 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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The wiring is 100% correct, checked last night.

Heres the Photo.

This unit can supply 1200 Watts of power without putting any load on your Controller Power Bar.

If you look at the diagram on the first post you can see exactly how this is all setup. It's very easy, I used the green heat shrink tubing to cover my solder joints. I used a socket for my relay just in case it burned out. The Lower half with the socket and wires is wrapped in black tape to prevent any touching of the power leads. (Tape removed for photo)
  #8  
Old 03/10/2006, 02:15 PM
Entropy Entropy is offline
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Nice! Pretty small and compact as well. What kind of cords did you end up using to connect the chiller to?
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  #9  
Old 03/10/2006, 03:09 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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Just used a heavy duty extension cord and cutoff each end about 18" from the plug. Shaved off a bit of wire and soldered it up.
  #10  
Old 03/10/2006, 03:36 PM
houser houser is offline
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Loving DIY of course...

You could also add a mogul socket for many "cube" relays, then you can use more substantial ring or fork terminals. Pretty much bombproof.
  #11  
Old 03/10/2006, 04:24 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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Yes and you can also add an inline fuse holders and put in some fuses that match your equipment exactly. This will give you added protection, best part of all is that your powerstrip is not being stressed at all.
  #12  
Old 03/10/2006, 11:37 PM
szwab szwab is offline
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very nice and in time for warm weather thanks!!!!
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  #13  
Old 03/13/2006, 03:39 PM
Tagareef Tagareef is offline
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RobbyG...Thanks for this great idea of yours!!!!!!!!

I just built 2 of these for my MH lighting. They work great!.

I was just about to order a Neptune DC4HD, but saw this thread just in time. Just saved over $100.

Luis
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  #14  
Old 03/13/2006, 06:06 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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Fantastic!! Glad it worked for you, post a photo if you can.

Quote:
Originally posted by Tagareef
RobbyG...Thanks for this great idea of yours!!!!!!!!

I just built 2 of these for my MH lighting. They work great!.

I was just about to order a Neptune DC4HD, but saw this thread just in time. Just saved over $100.

Luis
  #15  
Old 03/13/2006, 07:13 PM
Tagareef Tagareef is offline
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Here is my version:



Sorry I don't have a picture of the "guts", but it was kind of a pain putting the thing together with the 2 relays and all the wiring stuffed into the electrical outlet box. I didn't use the socket or solder on the relays. I used insulated crimp-ons and taped up everything for insurance.

I think the next one I build will be in a "quad" box with GFCI outlets and fuse housings drilled into the side.

Thanks again RobbyG...it was a fun project!

Luis
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  #16  
Old 03/13/2006, 09:29 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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OOOhhh Kay...
Well my version is officialy in the Crapper. Yours is sweet

BTW your photo creates a strange optical illusion, is that 2 boxes I am seeing or one box on a mirrored table?
  #17  
Old 03/13/2006, 09:41 PM
Tagareef Tagareef is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by RobbyG

BTW your photo creates a strange optical illusion, is that 2 boxes I am seeing or one box on a mirrored table?
It's actually a box and an extension. The extension gave me more room for the relays and another pair of cord holes needed for "signal" voltage cables from the Neptune's DC8.
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  #18  
Old 03/14/2006, 01:53 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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Looks great, like a factory job.
  #19  
Old 03/14/2006, 02:17 PM
Chrisrush Chrisrush is offline
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I agree. That thing looks sharp.

RobbyG, can you take a picture of the other end of your relay?

I'm having trouble trying to understand your paint description.

Chris
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  #20  
Old 03/14/2006, 02:55 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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That would be difficult because I already taped the whole thing back up.
Just hold the Relay upside down and look at the bottom pins, it all becomes very clear then.
  #21  
Old 03/14/2006, 03:11 PM
Chrisrush Chrisrush is offline
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Yea, I got that part, what about the wires. I assume that 'a' connects to the device, 'b' plugs into the wall, but where does 'c' come from?

Thanks,
Chris
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  #22  
Old 03/14/2006, 03:53 PM
RobbyG RobbyG is offline
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"C" is the male plug that plugs into your controller. When power is applied to "C" it causes the Relay to close and power now flows from B to A.
  #23  
Old 03/14/2006, 03:55 PM
Chrisrush Chrisrush is offline
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Gotcha. Thanks for the help.

Chris
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  #24  
Old 03/14/2006, 11:29 PM
cubuffs cubuffs is offline
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Luis,

That looks great. I cannot wait for you to make me one! I am kidding of course.
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  #25  
Old 03/15/2006, 08:23 AM
Chrisrush Chrisrush is offline
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Tagareef,
Can you draw up a quick sketch of the innards of your box.

Thanks,
Chris
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