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#1
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Does a UV sterilizer help with algae?
I had a small red algae spike when I first set up my tank. After it went away (seemingly on its own), I never really had any algae problems at all. A couple weeks ago, I upgraded my lighting to a TX5 unit from Aquactinics (5 x 45W T5's). Since then, I have been accumulating algae on the bottom sand bed, and the glass seems to grow alot more then previously. I have a ton more light then before (up from 2 x 39W T%'s), but other than that, I havent really changed anything. A friend of mine said a UV sterilizer would definitely help get rid of/prevent algae blooms.
Is that true? And if so, what would you guys recommend for a 55g with some softies and light LPS? Thanks a bunch in advance! |
#2
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Well it depends some say it is awesome and some say it is crap but i wouldn't use it because a algae bloom means your water quality is off (ex. high nitrates and phosphates), it could also could be because your bulbs need to be replaced but give it a try, might work who knows? But i would recommend to give it some time because your lights are new (i just upgraded too and battle the same thing).
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#3
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Its not nitrates or phosphates...those are in check. I measure pretty regularly, and I do water changes religiously. My bulbs are only a few weeks old.
I've read some threads where people have reduced lighting, and in some cases, shut the lights off completely for a day or 2 every month, and have kept algae in check. I was just wondering if anyone has any knowledge of UV sterilizers being effective against algae? |
#4
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Anyone recommend any good brands? My LFS here has some Turbo Twist ones on sale...what do you guys recommend, and do they help with algae?
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#5
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If the tank has a greenwater problem (single-cell algae floating around), the UV can help. Otherwise, it's not going to help with algae, in my opinion.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#6
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I would never consider a UV sterilizer. If anything I would use a hang on diatomaceous earth filter as needed. To me UV sterilizer is just too gimmiky and too much hassle.
Something like this: http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/10606/product.web |
#7
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Boca Kris, The algae has to feeding off of something that's in you system. My guess would be either water or overfeeding.. I don't know about your lights, but heavy red spectrum can cause algae also. UV will not help, I would find out why the algae is blooming first...
Good Luck |
#8
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I agree with these guys, a UV is not going to help your problem. Like bertoni said, it would work for greenwater (single-cell floating algae) because it actually passes thru the UV. The UV would do nothing for the algae on the sand/glass/rocks etc.
The algae has to be feeding on something you are putting in the tank. Phosphate tests are pretty much useless for testing in your tank because they won't usually show a reading because the algae is using it up so fast. You say you do alot of water changes but you don't say where you get the water from. Is it RO/DI? Do you know of the TDS reading? I say save your money and get a good refugium set up. |
#9
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^
Last edited by cloak; 12/31/2007 at 04:29 AM. |
#10
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Thanks for the replies!
A refugium is out of the question, unfortunately, because my tank is suspended over my bar on a fabricated steel bracket. There is cabinets on both sides. (I built this thing before I knew what I know now!). The water changes come from my LFS (RO for fresh and salt). I dont have any nitrates/nitrites to speak of, and my phosphates are nil, though I understand they could be consumed before the test gets to them. I will also try to cut back on the feedings a bit, even though I already feel like its not that much. So, maybe my best bet for now is to slowly cut back the amount of time I have the lights on? With the new setup, I have actinincs that I use for dusk/dawn. What do you guys recommend as far as how much time total I have the lights on? What time on - dawn - daylight - dusk - off? Thanks again for the replies! |
#11
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Follow the sun.
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#12
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Throw some cheato in the main tank to steal the algae's nutrients and feed less in addition to reduced light periods.
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#13
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IMO lights are never the issue, algae is a nutrient issue. If you keep nutrients low, there will not be an algae problem, regardless of the light. My guess is that the phosphates or nitrates are being consumed before they show up on your test kit. I think phosban or a RDSB will be much more effective...
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Some people say, "How can you live without knowing?" I do not know what they mean. I always live without knowing. That is easy. How you get to know is what I want to know. - Richard Feynman |
#14
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Phosphate testing is very hard to do, most tests are impossible to read and if you have algae at the time, most likely the phosphates are being eaten up very quickly. You probably have a phosphate issue. run a phosban reactor for a week or so. It can hang on the tank and take up very little space.
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#15
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I have a 125 gallon tank that I recently changed the bulbs on one side of it. It has tow 36 inch strip lights. The side I changed I used higher intensity lights. That side I now have algae growing on the glass rapidly. The other side barely has any. This is just an observation but the higher intensity lights do seem to have an algae effect. It is apparent. You may want to change to a lower intensity bulb. I do not have a reef, only fish, so the high intesity lighting does not mean much to me. Good luck.
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#16
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i had have an algae problem also...i posted about it a couple weeks ago and decided it was due to my lights being on for to long during the day and also because i had upgraded...the algae is definatly slowing down now since they have been up for almost a month but i would give it time...i also turned my tank lights off for 3 days straight and that definatly helped out alot...hope this helps some...btw im running my actinics 30min before halides and 30min after halides go off (dawn/dusk effect) actinics turn on at 7:00am halides at 7:30am and turn off halides at 5:00pm and actinics at 5:30...hope this helps
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#17
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Unless your home all day you may want to adjust your lights to come on later and go off later since most people are gone during the day
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#18
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Re: Does a UV sterilizer help with algae?
Quote:
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Can't go back to sea, so I'll bring the sea to me! 72 Gal bowfront SunPod 2x150W 14K HQI-MH w/ 18 Lunar Lights Tidepool II w/ Euro-Reef RS-100 Osmolator Universal 3155 2 Hydor Koralia 3 @ 850 gph |
#19
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Thanks for the tips! Glad Im not the only one battling it!
I definitely think its a light issue, or at least a major contributing factor. Before I venture into something I know nothing about, like a phosphate reactor, I will experiment with a combo of lighting reduction and monitor my feeding amounts. Hopefully this helps, and my tank will balance itself out. I'll probably grab a few more snails in there (I have a Mexican turbo, and 2 Atlantic grazers in my 55g...think I need more? I also have 3 pepps, and about 4-5 blue legs, and one emerald)? |
#20
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And add some cheato...
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#21
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Theres no way I would add cheato to a display tank. Sorry. I'll take some algae on the sand any day...
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#22
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Quote:
if you have excess nutrients and dim lighting it will be harder for the algae to grow because the algae is missing part of what it needs to grow(light). so you add this brighter light and the algae grows, it must be the light! right?. its not the light, remove the excess nutrients and the algae will die off
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looking for grammar check ------------------------------------------------ |
#23
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I am not in any way doubting it is nutrients that are a contributing factor. The only part Im curious to, is how come I never had algae before? All my levels were the same as they are now. The only thing that has changed is the lighting? Are you saying that I always had high nutrients, but the algae couldnt grow because of insufficient light? Its tough to put a finger on cause I have ricordea (even though I know they require relatively low light!), a coupla brain coral looking things, some zoos, etc. They all were able to grow under my previous lighting, so I would think algae would have enough light to grow cause I thought they even required less lighting than some of those!
Is there anyway to test the nutrients that you are talking about? I do religious 20% water changes every 3-4 wks, and all parameters that I measure for are really good. Not trying to be confrontational, just trying to learn as much as I can! And thanks again for all the replies! |
#24
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More light means more algal growth, for a fairly wide range of lighting. There's always some alga of some sort in our tanks. The growth rate varies with the nutrients available as well as the light. Lots of people report algal issues when more light is added.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
#25
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As noted earlier a sterilizer will effect only what passes thorugh it. It helps reduce phytoplankton (for better or worse) among other things. This will help keep the water clean and cut down on glass cleaning.. It is in my opinion a useful tool,not at all gimmicky just a bulb in a bottle. it can't affect algae that is growing on the rock or sustrate and will have no effect on them. It probably will effect some of the spores that float in the water column. they are generally easy to use but are pricey.
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Tom |
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