New Ca reactor design with pics and drawings - Page 6

planetg · #**126** 02/26/2003, 08:57 AM

DJ88:

Could you post a pic or at explain a little how your pump pulls effluent from the reactor and pumps to the reactor.

How also do you control the flow rate? Any special technique?

Thanx a lot

DJ88© · #**127** 02/26/2003, 10:24 AM

The effluent is pumped into the reactor by a mini jet. This forces effluent out at a set rate controlled by a 1/4" irrigation valve just after the pump.

planetg · #**128** 02/26/2003, 01:19 PM

i hope i dun sound stupid but just to clarify.

there's a pump forcing sump water to the reactor via a little valve. becos water is forced in, water will be forced out thru a hole on the top of the reactor (according to yr design)

does that make sense?

i see lots of other reactors utilising a bubble counter but i've noticed you dun. is it really necessary?

Cheapreef · #**129** 02/26/2003, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by planetg
i hope i dun sound stupid but just to clarify.

there's a pump forcing sump water to the reactor via a little valve. becos water is forced in, water will be forced out thru a hole on the top of the reactor (according to yr design)

That's correct, most reactors work that way. You should have a bubble counter. I think Darren does not because he's built a couple of reactors and cna fine tune it by watching the intake. It will make your life easier with one.

Clinton

Wally311 · #**130** 02/26/2003, 01:54 PM

DJ88 and everyone else,
I've been following this thread for a while now and I have to say THANKS!!!!
You've provided a wealth of info here. I've never worked w/ acrylic B4, but I would live to put one of these on my new setup, as I am having a #$*@! of a time keepin my alk levels steady right now. Any tips or special tools? Thanks again.

Lunchbucket · #**131** 02/26/2003, 04:12 PM

well, for me DIY'ing my own (just about done... waiting on a few pieces

) i bought a router and a table saw. i use a flush trim and 1/4" round over for my router and on my table saw i posted a topic in the DIY forum about what blade to get. you will need a Special acrylic cutting blade so you have nice edges to joint to.

oh yeah. tap set is a MUST. drill, drill bits, glue...basically a lot of stuff!

Lunchbucket

melev · #**132** 02/26/2003, 04:53 PM

I have found the only things I've need is a table saw and a router. I already owned both. I'm using cheap 7 1/4" sawblades with as many teeth as I can get (160 recently), and I have the blade set as high it will go.

I use Weld-On acrylic glue. I also use a propane torch for heating and bending. Sandpaper is pretty important.

For drilling larger holes, I use my door knob hole drilling set.

Basically I had most of the stuff for simple DIY stuff. I may expand on this somewhat if I get more serious about it. I'm picking up a new router as soon as the weather cooperates.

bmcq · #**133** 02/26/2003, 06:51 PM

An inexpensive table top band saw also works well for acrylics. I set up a rip fence, use a 1/16" wide blade, fine tooth ..... works really well ....... no chipping just light sanding!!!

pantinor · #**134** 02/26/2003, 08:19 PM

I got a little further on this project, here are some shots of my lid and the bottom area. how is it looking?

I have to wait for some internet orders to come in for some required john guest speed fittings that I need.

Next I need to get the pumps, co2 equipment, ARM media and a ph and alk test kit and I think I will be reacting away.

stay tuned

Wally311 · #**135** 02/27/2003, 12:29 AM

Looking at the above pic, I don't see an O-ring on the top. Do you not need one?

DJ88© · #**136** 02/27/2003, 01:07 AM

pantinor,

Looking good.

Nice work.

Guys,

Thanks for helping out.. I can't get to the puter much right now so any help would be really appreciated. If you can answer a question. Go for it.

Wally,

You can either use an O ring or neoprene as I and a few others do now. You will need it as salt water will make it's way out if you don't. believe me.. lol.

Mr_Quality · #**137** 02/27/2003, 07:47 AM

My copy is nearly Complete. All pieces are in-house. There remains one last issue I need to resolve. I got one of those combo regulator/solenoid/bubble-counter/needle valves from Custom Aquatics and the darn bubble-counter leaks. There appear to be some hairline cracks around the threaded opening where it attaches to the solenoid. Iâ€™ve tried super glue without success and now Iâ€™m trying to goop it up with silicone.

I have a question though. I have a cut-off valve between the bubble-counter and the sump. Could the cut-off valve be creating too much back pressure for the bubble counter to handle? Should I try to put the bubble-counter between the cut-off valve and the sump where there is less pressure? Do I even need a cut-off valve?

Mike

Cheapreef · #**138** 02/27/2003, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mr_Quality
Do I even need a cut-off valve?

Mike

Nope, i wouldn't run a cut- off vavle. There shouldn't be any pressure on the bubble counter, not enough to worry about anyway.

Clinton

pantinor · #**139** 02/27/2003, 11:50 AM

Yes, I do not even have the top glued down yet, the whole thing comes off right now for access. My plan is to get an O-ring (allorings.com) and make another outer recessed groove to seat it, or else get some of that inner tube material mentioned before. Should work I think. I will also search for some neoprene. I have an old pair of leaky neoprene fly fishing waders that might do the trick too.

Hey Mr Quality, looks like you do some fly tying there while building your reactor

I also saw the inegrated Co2 regular/solenoid/bubble counter for $89 on the web. I was wondering if the solenoid is a good idea for when the power goes off, the co2 gas is stopped as well.

But if you said the bubble counter leaks then i might DIY the square one on the side of the reactor still.

pioneerlog · #**140** 02/27/2003, 12:17 PM

Quote:

I also saw the inegrated Co2 regular/solenoid/bubble counter for $89 on the web. I was wondering if the solenoid is a good idea for when the power goes off, the co2 gas is stopped as well.

Just wondering what the output psi is on the Co2. I have a spare Co2 bottle and regulator from a beer bar, and was wondering if that might work?

Quote:

But if you said the bubble counter leaks then i might DIY the square one on the side of the reactor still.

Is this bubble counter a DIY project??

FYI You might check HD for neoprene gasket, I have bought some 6"x6"x1/8" sheet there. I believe it was in the plumbing dept.

Geoff~

Cheapreef · #**141** 02/27/2003, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pioneerlog
Just wondering what the output psi is on the Co2. I have a spare Co2 bottle and regulator from a beer bar, and was wondering if that might work?
Geoff~

Yep tht's what i'm using. The bottle pressure is around 1200psi on mine, but i'm not sure if the woman filled it all the way or not. After it goes through the regulator it sould be below 10psi.

Clinton

salty joe · #**142** 02/27/2003, 03:27 PM

DJ88,

Nice reactor.

If I understand correctly, the effluent to tank originates near bottom of reactor.

If so, how did you purge this thing of air?

Joe

Cheapreef · #**143** 02/27/2003, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by salty joe
DJ88,

Nice reactor.

If I understand correctly, the effluent to tank originates near bottom of reactor.

If so, how did you purge this thing of air?

Joe

Tank water enters at the bottom, effluent out the top. It bleeds the air out itself as the unit fills with water.

Clinton

salty joe · #**144** 02/27/2003, 05:29 PM

Sorry if this seems dense, but if the effluent tube that exits at the top extends inside reactor to near the bottom, wouldn't air stop purging when water level reached bottom of effluent tube?

Cheapreef · #**145** 02/27/2003, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by salty joe
Sorry if this seems dense, but if the effluent tube that exits at the top extends inside reactor to near the bottom, wouldn't air stop purging when water level reached bottom of effluent tube?

Here Darren posted this on the page prior to this one. Sorry about the mix up.

Marc,

Here is how I start up my reactors from scratch.
fill it with water. Hey some people don't .. really .

Fill it as full as you can with a cup or something. Close the top up. Open up one of the fittings on top to bleed off excess air until all of it(or as much as possible is out). Use the feed pump to do this.

Seal off and start up recirc pump. Let it run for a while with the feed pump running as well. Set teh effluent rate at about 100ml/min.

Once you have a steady flow rate and are satisfied all is fine(no leaks etc). Turn on the CO2. Aim for 60 BPM to start. Let it run over night.

Measure effluent alk. I aim for double what I want in my tank to start. ie 24dkh. or there abouts. Once it has settled in at the alk you want after a day or so(possibly as fast as a few hours).

Measure pH of effluent. Record this number.

over the next few days monitor tank's alk and Ca. if they drop increase the bubble rate. This will decrease the pH of the effluent and will increase its effectiveness at keeping your levels higher.

Adjust the flow rates and CO2 rates as necessary. Repeat.

In a nutshell that is it.

Remember this. Increasing flow rate increases pH. Increasing bubbles decreases pH.

I usually aim for 6.8 to 7.0 to start and go from there.

Clinton

Buk_A_neer · #**146** 02/27/2003, 06:42 PM

OK ... this project looks awesome ! ... gonna build one for sure ... couple questions tho ... If your reactor you figure will do up to 150 Gallon then can we extrapulate ( sp? ) to say double the size of the reactor for my 300 Gallon system with 90 Gallon sump ?

Also looking to build a dual beckett skimmer and was wondering if anyone has used square acrylic in building a skimmer for the risers ?

Cheers

Rasta

DJ88© · #**147** 02/27/2003, 08:10 PM

Quote:

If your reactor you figure will do up to 150 Gallon then can we extrapulate ( sp? ) to say double the size of the reactor for my 300 Gallon system with 90 Gallon sump ?

For all I know this reactor will run a 300. I was erring on the side of smaller. Most manufactueres(big names not DIY) will over guess what a reactor will do in my opinion. Considering this has 2 containers of ARM in it I'd say it can do a fairly big system. I was taking a complete stab in the dark with 150 or so.

Clinton,

Thanks.. appreciate it.

Quote:

Sorry if this seems dense, but if the effluent tube that exits at the top extends inside reactor to near the bottom, wouldn't air stop purging when water level reached bottom of effluent tube?

There are two fittings at the top. Disconnect the recirculation line so it is open to the air(Leaving the effluent line in place). Attach the lid and secure it tight. Then turn on your feed pump and as the reactor fills excess air trapped inside will be forced out by the rising water level inside. Once you have purged it of all excess air inside. Re attach the recirculation line and start your recirculation pump keeping the feed pump running.

Easy as that.

Quote:

Just wondering what the output psi is on the Co2. I have a spare Co2 bottle and regulator from a beer bar, and was wondering if that might work?

As long as your regulator drops to around 10 PSI you are fine. Too high and you WILL blow the top off of your reactor. It has been done. 40PSI of CO2 will do it. I run my reg at ~15-18PSI FYI.

Quote:

Also looking to build a dual beckett skimmer and was wondering if anyone has used square acrylic in building a skimmer for the risers ?

When I was messing around with skimmers and such in a prior phase of reefkeeping I found that if you run a square shape with sharp edges or corners you tend to cause the fine bubbles created by a beckett to collapse in on each other. Forming large inefficient bubbles. It may work to a degree but.... That was one of my observations. Keep as few flat areas of contact as possible in a beckett skimmer. Round risers minimize edges to cause this happening. Rounding any flat edges inside a riser say at a flange also assist in minimizing this from happening.

salty joe · #**148** 02/27/2003, 08:10 PM

Thank you Clinton.
Joe

bmcq · #**149** 02/28/2003, 07:33 PM

Working on plans for building ..... and I have maybe a suggestion! Would it be possible to add a small rectangular column on the front of this unit, with a hole drilled at the bottom of the chamber into this column, with a fitting at the bottom for CO2 from regulator ( preferably with valve for minute adjustment ), and then a tube running out from the top of this column into the normal ( if I understand this correctly ) inlet drilled in the pump supply. Would this be workable to have a DIY bubble counter?

DJ88© · #**150** 02/28/2003, 08:06 PM

BMCQ,

What it sounds liek you want is a bubble counter built right onto the reactor. Make it exactly how you had described and you will be fine. As long as it is water/air tight.

Only thing is once you buy your regulator set and needle valve you use the needle valve on the regulator for the fine adjustments you ar talking about. All you need to do is have a fitting at the bottom where you attach the CO2 line from the needle valve to the counter. Then a fitting on top for CO2 to exit to the reactor.