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#1
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New Lights and Algae
I bought new lights this past weekend and have them on the tank. I'm starting to get a diatom bloom again. I haven't had diatoms in my tank since it was in it's initial stages. The tanks been running for 9 months now.
I'd imagine this is just a "tank adjusting" kind of deal. How long will this typically last for and does it typically go away on it's own? I tested the water two days ago and here's what I have: Temp: 80.4*F (I turned it down 2 notches on my heater it's it's at 78* now) PH: 8.1 Salinity: 1.024 Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: <5 Thanks for any insight. |
#2
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did u upgrade to halides? it's normal.
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#3
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Oops... didn't mention that. I went from two normal flourescent lights to a Tek T5 4x54 light fixture.
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#4
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New lights can cause algae blooms but silica is what feeds diatoms. When was the last time you replaced your DI resin of your RO/DI (i'm assuming you use one)? Do you know the TDS?
__________________
Yeah. I got the memo. And I understand the policy... |
#5
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CUt back on amount of time light on for awile while tank adjust to new light and besure flow is adaqite.
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Lance H. |
#6
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thanks... i buy my fresh water at the fish store. They have DI water so I don't know the last time it was changed nor do I have a TDS meter. You can see the flow in my tank in my sig. I don't think it's that because there is the same amount growing under the main output from the sump as there is in other areas of the tank.
I'll try the changing the lighting schedule. It's probably that. I had no lights for 3 weeks after my NOs died. The schedule now is: Noon: Actinics 1300: White lights 2000: White lights out 2100: Actinics out What should I make my schedule and how much should I add each day? |
#7
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Buying water from outside source , i hope you test it just to be sure.
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Lance H. |
#8
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Invest in your own RO/di + a add-on DI filter...Quality source water is a first-must-have-equipment for any reef, IMHO.
And I have the best quality local water in the nation(voted best 3 times in the last 10 years)...and I don't use it because it has up to 2 ppm no3 some parts of the year. |
#9
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Better yet have your LFS test their water for TDS, then tell them what's wrong with it.
__________________
Yeah. I got the memo. And I understand the policy... |
#10
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LOL drummer!
I was getting my water at clayton pet emporium before i called the filter guys..... lets just say i was better off using my tap water, at least it was not reading for nitrates and had a lower tds. |
#11
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i'll look into the ro/di filters I guess. If I use 15 gallons of water a week that'd be 60 gallons of water a month. Don't RO/DIs put out 4 gallons for every one or something like that? So I'd be using 240 extra gallons a month which would probably be noticeable. I don't know if base housing would throw a conniption or not.
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#12
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good news... it's subsiding. Must have been the huge change in lights... none for 3 weeks to 4 T5s.
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#13
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its just adjusting, every tank does thatgoes through lighting changes, don't panic,
when in doubt, cool out. dilution is the solution to the polution, and the Less that goes in, is less that has to come out...
__________________
Make Your Aquarium a 'Pristine' Environment for your Animals. |
#14
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go to air water and ice. They have a 5 stage 75gph with a TDS meter for $200 +shipping. Not a bad price for what you get and that is with a float switch too. It was very easy to hook up even for the beginner.
I had the same thing happen when I upgraded to the Aquacnitics TX5 fixture, but was well worth the purchase. Good luck |
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