"Green" reef planning

[Foosinho]

Originally posted by drawman
Also, does anyone have plans on setting up an RO wastewater reservoir for laundry use?

It's on my radar. I'm still working out what water management plan to enact. Rainwater collection is definitely on the map. Greywater is a possibility. I'm trying to sort out where RO wastewater would fit - should it be put into an irrigation system for the garden/greenhouse? Into the greywater system? Or into the rainwater cistern?

I don't have the answers to those questions yet. Perhaps when I get closer to construction (ha!) and I consult greywater systems designers I'll get a better feel for the ideal reuse of the wastewater.

[Turf]

Doesn't really matter where you use it because bottom line your USING IT. If you using that water it means your using less off the tap.

[Artisan Corals]

Or as Rickyfins noted, just use a high end De-Ionizer and there is no waste water (and no wasted membranes, sediment filters, carbon filters, etc.).

The regeneration of these resins do use a diluted (6 parts water to one part Muriatic Acid) acid and base (similarly diluted Sodium Hydroxide). If you capture the regenerated outflow from each side, the diluted acid neutralizes the diluted base and result is harmless to go down the drain.

[Turf]

very good thinking

[sean1]

I think it we should definitly downsize tanks. One, their is a big difference between using a 50 watt heater to heat a 29 g reef than using a 250 watt heater to heat a 180 gallon reef. It is alot more efficient to put a little powerhead and a biowheel on a 29 g than a massive sump pump, skimmer, calc. reactor, and numerous powerheads and wavemakers on a 180. Also, think about all the trace elements and supplaments you need in a large tank. On my 29 g I go through an 8 oz. bottle of kalkwasser over 2 or three monbths. This treated my old 90 g for two weeks. Also, the tank bred fish currently available are the smaller fish. Clowns, gobies, and small angels are generally considered more sustainable in the wild anyway because they tend to their eggs. Natural lighting or lighta driven by solar panels are ofcoarse the best option but if these are not available, try to downsize. If you are trying to decide between a 250w mh or a 150w mh, get the 150 and keep more lps and soft corals. You could even get a few acros or tridacnas and keep them near the surface. Also, everyone says buy captive bred but I think we should also look at fragging and giving back to a lfs free or cheeply. This will make them more willing to take them from you. I supply my LFS with all the xenias they sell. This means they don't need to buy wild caught from Indo or captive bred that needed to be shipped hundereds of miles on jets producing greenhouse gases. It increases the survival rate if they don't have to travel long distances as well. Puting water back into the ocean is probably a bad idea. Look up Caulerpa Taxifolia on google. But I also think we should try to find a better way to dispose of waste water. Cosnider where you live as weel. If you live in an area where you know the marine ecosystem is fragile, maybe you should keep a tank. For example, I live in NYC where the marine ecosystem is fairly resilient, but if you live in Key West the marine fauna is more sensitive and prone to dying from pollution.

[rickyfins]

Yes this is true Sean, keeping in mind of our near by ecosystem is a great idea. Simple solution that is environmentally friendly and cheap to do. Treat your water with either Chlorine or similar agent to kill all microbes in the water. Do not dump it for 2 days so they chlorine has a chance to disappear and then you are good to go.

This is a tried and true method. Most decorations in FW tanks were actually cleaned this way up until a few years ago. Weird huh? Actually until I talked to a LFS in my area, he was still telling his customers to clean equipment and decorations this way. That was about 5 years ago now, but it will work great for the waste from skimmer cups, waste water from water changes, etc.

When you remove stuff "greenery" from your fuge, FREEZE it, this will kill it and you can safely dispose of it then in your garbage can or compost pile.

[Mark]

The obvious one, which is already mentioned, is reducing electrical consumption. Efficient skimmers, and new technology like LED lights certainly make sense. But there is more upfront cost involved.

But what about some cheap solutions to improving your existing tank:

One thing overlooked with people's existing tanks, is reducing the photo-period on metal halides. I'm still surprised that there are people I meet who run their halides 8-12 hours! I run my 3-250's for 4 hours a day, and run my 156 watts of actinics for 10 hours(mostly for viewing pleasure). And I have sps growing quite fast. Some of my colonies are hitting the surface and forming microattols. A short time of peak intensity is all that is needed. Shorter mh photoperiod also reduces heat and evaporation. Less top off water consumed, means less RO waste water.

Next up, your sump return pump. massive turnover is not necessary. Using low wattage prop pumps, like Tunze streams, allows one to cut the sump turnover(since the return pump isn't working double duty as a source of current in the display). A smaller return pump cuts electricity and quiets your tank.

[samtheman]

"A short time of peak intensity is all that is needed" Thanks Doctor! I am sure you are right.

[reefrat]

are there any sites completely dedicated to aquaculturing?? corals and fish