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  #1  
Old 12/27/2007, 10:40 PM
chasingmytail chasingmytail is offline
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Posts: 17
Where should I go from here.

I am new to saltwater and have started a new tank and would like input on where to head.

The tank goal is a mini reef

I have a 125g tank
140lbs of Aragonite substrate
75 Lbs Live Rock
50 Lbs Other Rock
2 30" Lites with basic Flourescent with 10K and 50.50 bulbs in each
Amaricle PL-2000 Wet Drive with Protien Skimmer
Rio 2500+ pump for wetdry
2 - Rio 1700 PH for water circulation

Tank is cycled with 3 FireFish, 2 Clowns, 16 Hermits, Tons of bristle worms, 2 britle stars (Very Small) and one very small star fish that was a hitchiker.

SG = 1.0225
Temp = 76
PH = 8.3, Alk = 8.9, Hard = 490
Amon = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = 10
Copper = 0

1. Is the wet dry good enough (14 x 16 X 22)
2. Is that enough Live Rock
3. Do I need a refugium
4. Is the SG ok for soft corals
5. Is T5's ok for soft corals or do I need VHO. I don't want to do MH. Can I use the standard lights for any corals at all.
6. What is a good order to add stuff. All fish first, Some corals then fish.....

My issue is that my LFS sold me all the equiptment and then says, do what you want. I am well read on FOWLR and setup for a Reef, but most of the inforamtion I read is in conflict with what I read here or other books or lacks the detail of what I read here.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
  #2  
Old 12/27/2007, 10:53 PM
tongareefer tongareefer is offline
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Location: Missouri
Posts: 44
Does the wet/dry have bioballs?
  #3  
Old 12/27/2007, 10:53 PM
colotl colotl is offline
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I would definetly go with a refugium. Will keep your parameters in check especially your Phosphate.

SG should be around 1.025
Use RO/DI water only

T5 are fine. Standard lights won't work.

Add corals once your tank has been up for a few months and your water parameters are consistant. Corals need good water.
  #4  
Old 12/27/2007, 10:54 PM
Blown 346 Blown 346 is offline
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1. Yes the sump will work, but bigger is always better, Maybe a little project down the road.

2. You have enough rock for filtration, unless you want more.

3.You dont have to have one, but they do help with the removal of Phosphates,Nitrate, Excess proteins/nutrients

4.I think you mean 1.025, yes that is perfect for any coral specimen.

5.T5's work very well, even for sps etc.

6. Stocking the tank is all your choice, you can add corals, or fish first. Just make sure when adding fish you add them slowly in the beginning for a few months to make sure you can keep the bacteria stabilized or you can overload the system and create a mini cycle. Corals wont be a problem when adding.
  #5  
Old 12/27/2007, 10:55 PM
chasingmytail chasingmytail is offline
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The wet dry does have bio balls.

I am slowly raising the SG up. Will set my goal at 1.025

Only use RO water, don't have a DI unit.

Thanks for the input.
  #6  
Old 12/27/2007, 10:57 PM
NYIntensity NYIntensity is offline
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I agree with colotl; your SG should be bumped up, corals prefer a bit higher salinity. I would also try to keep your temp between 79-81 degrees. I'd stray from sand sifting stars and fish, as they can disturb the sandbed with a bit too much enthusiasm, and go with nassarius snails.
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  #7  
Old 12/27/2007, 10:58 PM
tongareefer tongareefer is offline
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I would slowly get rid of the bioballs as they can cause nitrate problems.
  #8  
Old 12/27/2007, 11:01 PM
chasingmytail chasingmytail is offline
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Blown 346, Thanks for the input.. I did mean 1.0225 i will raise.

Guess i will start looking for the lights now.

I can build my own sump. I think one around 16d x 24w x 18t and attach to the wet dry. Make the refugium in there. I will put a second pump around 900gph to it and have 2 overflows. One feeding the wetdry and the other feeding the new sump. But this is a way off.
  #9  
Old 12/27/2007, 11:07 PM
colotl colotl is offline
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The DI will take all chemical and impurities out of the water.
Impurities will gave you algae problems in the future. Big headaches from what I read
  #10  
Old 12/27/2007, 11:08 PM
Avi Avi is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by chasingmytail


SG = 1.0225
Temp = 76
PH = 8.3, Alk = 8.9, Hard = 490
Amon = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = 10
Copper = 0

1. Is the wet dry good enough (14 x 16 X 22)
Well, it is small for a 120-gallon tank. It doesn't seem to be sufficiently large enough to offer the possibility of dedicating a portion to use as a refugium...for growing chaeto for nutrient export...and that's a significant handicap. Is it possible to return it?

Quote:
Originally posted by chasingmytail
2. Is that enough Live Rock
Well, you can make do with that amount, bearing in mind, that it's going to take some time for the "other" rock to become live rock, so if this is the specific rock you'll use, go slow on adding any livestock that has to be fed. Are you certain that the "other" rock is an oceanic rock or rock that is definitely suitable for marine aquarium use? I don't know that you should trust that LFS with the kind of treatment they've given you if that's where you got the rock. IMO, you're best off with somewhere between one pound of live rock per gallon of water in your system to have a full reef that will maintain water quality properly...IF...you have a good skimmer. Are you comfortable with the skimmer that came with the Amiracle? I'd suggest that you be sure that the skimmer you use be rated for a minimum of a 180-gallon tank.


Quote:
Originally posted by chasingmytail
3. Do I need a refugium
Like I mentioned already, you really ought to. You don't absolutely need one but it is an excellent measure to take to keep nitrates in suitable levels. I will go even farther...You do need one. But, that's my feeling...Others may disagree.

Quote:
Originally posted by chasingmytail
4. Is the SG ok for soft corals
That's pretty low...I'd say, too low. Raise it to 1.026 and try to maintain it there.

Quote:
Originally posted by chasingmytail
5. Is T5's ok for soft corals or do I need VHO. I don't want to do MH. Can I use the standard lights for any corals at all.
T5s should be fine for you, particularly since you don't seem to be intent on keeping the more light demanding coral. To a large extent the effectiveness of T5s depends on having the kind of fixture that provides individual reflectors for each bulb, and...the number of bulbs in the fixture. Try to get the one with the most bulbs that you can because it will give you more options in the future if you should want to try some other more light-demanding coral.


Quote:
Originally posted by chasingmytail
56. What is a good order to add stuff. All fish first, Some corals then fish.....
There is a lot of room for play here. Generally, once the tank is totally cycled, a "clean-up crew" is added...some snails and hermit crab..before anything else. But you don't have to do it this way. Them more important thing is to go slowly with adding fish because they contibute the most in terms of nitrate and phosphates sue to feedings. Coral, for the most part, are energized by light and so can be added more liberally, particularly in the beginning. Target feeding the coral will change that, of course, depending on how often it's done and how many coral.
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  #11  
Old 12/27/2007, 11:14 PM
demonsp demonsp is offline
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Location: el paso tx
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How old is this tank?
You also have alot of rock in there. Ill bet you have many low or no flow areas around the rock where waste , food , and other debris collects causing high nitrates. A pic would be great.
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  #12  
Old 12/28/2007, 06:54 PM
chasingmytail chasingmytail is offline
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Thanks for the reply AVI

Just a note, my wet dry is the 14 x 16 X 22. My refugium will be 14d x 17t x 24w. I am in the middle of making it from acrylic.

I decided on T5's for some light (Color) and then Compacts for the corals health. I would like to get 2 watts per gallon, but T5's only come in 42wat for a 36" unit. I would use 2 of those only giving my 84.
After looking online for VHO's, I think the transformers just don't fit where my tank is.
The idea of SG seems to be an issue: I live where it is 6000 feet above sea level (Denver Colorado). At this altitude, it's harder to remove gas and oxygenate the water (so I am told). To offset this, it' common at our LFS (Reef / saltwater ones) to run lower temps and SG to offset this. I went to 2 today and ask them to test my water, then to test their SG. Both were between 1.23 and 1.235. This makes it difficult to know which is really best.
I would like to see if anyone in the Rockies can validate this information or am I just full of it.
The rock I am using other than live rock is Leach Rock. It comes from quarries in Utah. (Once was an ocean. lol)
I think for now I am going to stick with fish I can buy locally due to the weather. Don't want to get frozen fish sticks. It's not uncommon for cargo to be bumped for passenger’s flights this time of year.
Again, Thanks for your input. Each response helps me fill in the gaps a little more so I can hopefully avoid any ******* mistakes.
  #13  
Old 12/28/2007, 07:10 PM
colotl colotl is offline
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Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 127
Make sure your T5's have individual reflectors in order to benifit there high light output. The grim reefer has alot of info on lights. Check out his threads.
  #14  
Old 12/28/2007, 07:39 PM
chasingmytail chasingmytail is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 17
DemonSP

Thanks for your post. The tank was setup 11/26/07 or there abouts. here are 4 images, my filter, and the tank in 3 peices:




  #15  
Old 12/28/2007, 07:42 PM
chasingmytail chasingmytail is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 17
Grim Reefer is on my list. Got his name from katyttt. I will send him a PM with my objectives. I think he might even live close enough that if he has some, I could pick them up. Will See..

Thanks
 


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