Still fighting DINOS i have some more?????? - Page 4

slumpysix · #76 01/19/2007, 10:20 PM

I had a small outbreak a few weeks ago and they just exploded in growth when I put in different MH lights. I run 2- 400W MH with twin PC bulbs. I shut down my lights for 3 days with the exception of turning on the PC to feed the fish for about a half hour per day. Everywhere the dino's were, they are gone. Not a trace of anything. Now I know it's a temp fix but I am doing a major water change and re-aquascaping in the morning on the 150. Hopefully I have seen the last of them.

delsol650 · #77 01/23/2007, 04:02 PM

make sure lights are OFF in both main tank and fuge.. as spores might get into fuge and just harbor there if you have light on in the fuge...

Zoom · #78 01/23/2007, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by delsol650
make sure lights are OFF in both main tank and fuge.. as spores might get into fuge and just harbor there if you have light on in the fuge...

Do you try this way? And if all the dinos was kill by keeping the light off in both main tank and fuge and how long and if you had any SPS corals in there?
Thank you.

FishF00d · #79 01/23/2007, 06:17 PM

I'm taking down the entire tank and cooking my LR for 6-8 weeks as suggested in the DIY threads. The goal will be to make sure the corals i'm removing do not have any cyano or dinos on them. I had a bad outbreak a few months back that killed 75% of my fish and tons of my inverts. It popped back up here recently and i lost 90% of my snails again. I have a mixture of both cynao and dinos and recently hair and red macro...

delsol650 · #80 01/24/2007, 12:31 PM

had some... stressed them out but they recovered after a while...

( ANALOGY ) Think about it if there were storms and dark skies in the ocean during el nino and stuff... those corals survived... should'nt be that bad... 7 days straight no lights and barley fed the tank, just enough to keep inhabitats (fish/inverts ) alive.

you could also separate the corals that you have into a QT. but insure you dip and scrub the corals prior to transfer to QT or else you just bringing some of the stuff over to the QT and start all over again once you return the corals to the main tank.

Zoom · #81 02/01/2007, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Zoom
I got me 500ml of CupriSorb from MD no one has it around here also got two bags to put the CupriSorb in there but they send me 250 micron and the CupriSorb flows right out from this bags so i had to go get me a very fine media bags from my LFS.
Any way i got two bags of the CupriSorb inside my two overflows.
I let you all know if is working or not.
The dinos still winning the battle i even have them mix in with my tumbling Cheato in my refuge

I quote my self so you know what is going on.
At 1-19-07 i use 500mL of Cuprisorb in my tank in a very high flow area and now is 2-1-07 it is 12 day of use , so far not even a slight change . The dinos still grow just as fast as before .
I promise to post here the outcome of the Coprisorb use, so everyone see the results.
Zero nothing better , you listing Seachem you owe my $30

delsol650 · #82 02/05/2007, 01:52 AM

I wouldn't use additives... just do the lights out technique with plenty of carbon for toxin absorption, no water changes/less feeding... and you should see some changes right away in a few days.

Zoom · #83 02/05/2007, 02:09 PM

I 'm at the dark stage for three days now.
I have one more day to go most off the dinos is dead . I order 4L of carbon and that will be all I will use I turn the ozone on because something smells bad in the tank.

delsol650 · #84 02/06/2007, 12:24 PM

the carbon should help out with the smell. Don't do a water change yet as you might feed any left over dinos...

after your done you could just turkey baste the dead dinos to be sucked up by your skimmer.. I did not do a water change till a week after complete dino kill. 20% change I think,

Randy Holmes-Farley · #85 02/06/2007, 01:28 PM

Don't do a water change yet as you might feed any left over dinos...

Feed them what?

Zoom · #86 02/07/2007, 09:07 AM

I turn the Pc lights "200W" on for 10Hr Tuesday and the MH "750W" on for one hour no Dinos to be fund any where all my SPS are very light colored they lost 50% of there color . I was going to go to 10Hr PC and 5 Hr MH today.
I saw no dinos residue to need to be siphon off .
I have kept the lights OFF for four full days I did not cover the tank up , I was very careful letting Any light reaching the tank that was include the lights from the windows.
Only thing I did was open the front window shades in the morning and feed the fish for ten minutes and close the blinds back up so the tank got no light at all the fish was spooked and did not like this at all I have alat of large old fish so I was worrying I did not get any ick from all that stress they was going trough but so far today everything looks ok not 100% but maybe 50%.
My refuge chaeto is ok all the rocks are nice and clean you can now see the coralline all over the rocks , still have some of the red algae on the rocks and some hair algae that was there before, not much at all.
Overall so far the tank looks ok, I saw some Corals start to STN a little , but they was not doing good any way before the dark stage , I just don't know if the Dinos still come back in a week or two, I hope not.
I let everyone Know.

Randy Holmes-Farley · #87 02/07/2007, 09:36 AM

OK, keep us updated. The total darkness is quite a stressful step, but if it works out it may be a useful way to go.

Zoom · #88 02/07/2007, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Randy Holmes-Farley
OK, keep us updated. The total darkness is quite a stressful step, but if it works out it may be a useful way to go.

Like you said very stressful .
But not to bad so far. My red millepora is now pink

delsol650 · #89 02/07/2007, 10:33 AM

Corals are resilient, they will stress easily but given time and care will usually come back strong...

as for water changes and feeding them.. when you do water changes and mix salt mixes with it, it contains minerals and other sources of nutrition that dinos CAN use to feed on..

MrPike · #90 02/07/2007, 10:47 AM

Zoom, I was wondering if perhaps you may be experiencing "old tank syndrome". I remember reading somewhere Eric Borneman speculated it may be the corraline algae growing so thick on the rock that it seals it, and it looses some of its biological filtering capacity. Do you have really thick corraline by chance?

Just a thought, hopefully your tank is doing better now, its quite beautiful.

Zoom · #91 02/07/2007, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MrPike
Zoom, I was wondering if perhaps you may be experiencing "old tank syndrome". I remember reading somewhere Eric Borneman speculated it may be the corraline algae growing so thick on the rock that it seals it, and it looses some of its biological filtering capacity. Do you have really thick corraline by chance?

Just a thought, hopefully your tank is doing better now, its quite beautiful.

old tank syndrome.... i was thinking about that five years a go that why slowly i was getting my rock out and slowly cook it in a dark tank almost 80% of my rock is been clean this way yes i do have large coralline build up but as you know you only get corraline where is light shines so under most of my rock is nice and clean .
And is old speculation about OTS any way .
I use 500 ML of metal absorbing media it did nothing the media still the same color as it was when I put it in the tank, if it was any metals in the tank the media will turn color.
My tank still is BB for many years now I have my Large Two feet long BTA spawned in my tank and kill almost everything that was about 16 months a go after that time my tank when down hill and never really recover completely.
I never had any problems in my tank till then I always had good luck with my tank everything I put in the tank use to grow like mad.
I never change any thing or did any thing deferent so I don't know where all this Dinos came from but they give me very hard time for a long time it is not pleasurable hobby any more ,I hope it will turn around soon. I have no time for this any more my 78 years old father had a very bad car accident hi is been in ICU for ten days now so I need to spend time with him and my mother, I just got them here in usa about four years a go from Greece so i can help them out , now this accident turn everything around .
So far I don't neglect the tank but if things don't get better soon with the dinos I will fave to shout it down for sure even so the tank is all automated still takes to much time for me to keep fighting the Dinos.
Is been very bad two years for me so far I hope to God everything turn around for the better .

Randy Holmes-Farley · #92 02/07/2007, 11:36 AM

as for water changes and feeding them.. when you do water changes and mix salt mixes with it, it contains minerals and other sources of nutrition that dinos CAN use to feed on..

Like what?

That presumes that dinoflagellates need something that the rest of the tank inhabitants do not. Seems like pure speculation to me.

Zoom · #93 02/07/2007, 11:44 AM

One thigh I know they grow much faster after a water change.
Some things I read up said the dinos most of the time they start to grow in the tanks after larges coral die off.

garymcgrath · #94 02/07/2007, 12:40 PM

I read in Julian Sprung's book "Algea Problem Solvers Guide" that you should not do water changes because there is something in the new water that increases the dino growth. I don't have the exact quote because I am at work now. He doesn't speculate specifically what it is that causes this. I have wondered if it could be ammonia since most salt mixes contain significant amounts of ammonia. But I don't know for sure.

Randy Holmes-Farley · #95 02/07/2007, 12:46 PM

Does Julian otherwise suggest how to deal with Dinos?

Zoom · #96 02/07/2007, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Randy Holmes-Farley
Does Julian otherwise suggest how to deal with Dinos?

Nothing different than your artical on Dinos.

garymcgrath · #97 02/07/2007, 01:18 PM

If I recall correctly, Julian only suggested reducing nutrients, using carbon and just let them die off on thier own with no water changes.

Randy Holmes-Farley · #98 02/07/2007, 02:03 PM

Thanks guys.

BobTheBuilder · #99 02/08/2007, 09:36 AM

I have a 28 gallon tank. I recently upgraded one of my powerheads to a Koralia 2 600 gph and added phospure to my hob filter and limited light to 4 hours per day for two weeks without water changes. The added flow definitely seems to help but it does not eliminate it. The dinoflagellates seem to be staying under control. I wanted to check to see if those additions would work before doing total lights out. I decided to do the lights out method and I am on day one. I will let you know how I do.

delsol650 · #**100** 02/08/2007, 01:11 PM

That is why doing water changes ( salt/additives ) just feeds dinos' = equals more nutrients for them to feed on... which is why I ALWAYS recommend to other not do water changes and NO lights when fighting dino's...

Eliminating both food sources ( lights and nutrients often kills em' quickly )

I have read up on these bastards for weeks prior to fully combating this scourge. Not saying I'm an expert, but from what I have read and did... IT worked for me and for others that I have recommend to as well.