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  #26  
Old 12/08/2006, 01:59 PM
Zoom Zoom is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by wrassie86
I believe it helps,i use a camping cooler for a holder and just fill the bottom with kalk and gavity feed.simple and cheap.(red slime in my sump died after adding kalk)
My thougts are also that when using GFO you can pass the balance that lets the dinos get a foot hold.I know since pulling the GFO my tank has never look better,theres more micro algea growth for the fish feed on and most important the dinos are almost gone.I will still use it but not 24-7.
If making a poll you might add if GFO has also been used long term before hand.
I will take the GFO out of the tank is no way the dinos will pull the PO4 out of the tank so quickly that my colorimeter said is 00. the PO4 is so low all my Cheato in my refuge die out .
I think by cutting back the CO2 to my reactor made a big change - I still keep belive That Peter Wilkens suggestion in my reef aquarium one book that was printed 12 years a go is the most accurate one- it said we need to keep the PH 8.4 to 8.5 during the day and above 8.2 at night with saturated solution of calcium hydroxide will kill the dinos in three weeks.
I also have a 90 Gallon tank with refuge that one has PO4 of 2.34 and no Dinos but i use a two part with a slow doser on that one so the PH is always up to 8.3 .
I just think i use to much GFO 1 litter all the time that had something to do with the PO4 been so low.
I still belive if i can drip kalk 24/7 i will have no dinos in one month .
It is now holidays season so i have to wait to get a kalk reactor later for now i use a one gallon container three times a day very saturated kalk and is keeping the dinos from spreading / multiplying and more.
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Last edited by Zoom; 12/08/2006 at 02:18 PM.
  #27  
Old 12/08/2006, 03:57 PM
wrassie86 wrassie86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zoom
I will take the GFO out of the tank is no way the dinos will pull the PO4 out of the tank so quickly that my colorimeter said is 00. the PO4 is so low all my Cheato in my refuge die out .
I think by cutting back the CO2 to my reactor made a big change - I still keep belive That Peter Wilkens suggestion in my reef aquarium one book that was printed 12 years a go is the most accurate one- it said we need to keep the PH 8.4 to 8.5 during the day and above 8.2 at night with saturated solution of calcium hydroxide will kill the dinos in three weeks.
I also have a 90 Gallon tank with refuge that one has PO4 of 2.34 and no Dinos but i use a two part with a slow doser on that one so the PH is always up to 8.3 .
I just think i use to much GFO 1 litter all the time that had something to do with the PO4 been so low.
I still belive if i can drip kalk 24/7 i will have no dinos in one month .
It is now holidays season so i have to wait to get a kalk reactor later for now i use a one gallon container three times a day very saturated kalk and is keeping the dinos from spreading / multiplying and more.

Right my thoughts are that by using GFO so aggressivly you/me could be limiting other things that would be fighting for the same nutrients tipping the scales for the dinos, after all they are a bacteria correct?And if the micro and other algeas are that limited.who knows i could very well be wrong about this, but what i do know is my SPS colors greatly improved also and still are from the lighter colors they were.
I'll run a check on my PH today and tommorow morning and see where i'm at, i know its 8.4 or so during the day but its been awile since a morning check.
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  #28  
Old 12/13/2006, 09:24 AM
Zoom Zoom is offline
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I did one more modification to my large Deltec skimmer air intake yesterday to up the PH .
I ran a large hose to the outdoor so now the skimmer only pumps fresh air in to the tank.
This so far busted my PH up one point from 7.97 in the morning up to 8.07 in the am and 8.3 from 8.2 when the mh light are on .
It is no brainer the dinos like the low PH so this will help some more .
Any thing else I can do to get the ph up higher ?

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  #29  
Old 12/15/2006, 10:02 PM
mcurl98 mcurl98 is offline
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I have my PH between 8.4 to 8.5 24/7. Been like that for 3 days. Dinos are still growing. I upped it to run between 8.5 to 8.6. WIll try that for 2 days. If they still seem to be actively growing at those levels, I'm going to pull everything out and run bleach (I think) through the system. This worked for others. I keep the PH high by using an aqualifter pump in a bucket of Kalkwasser (very concentrated). The pump is connected to a PH controller and it works out well-except for the fact my tank looks like crap as there is white everywhere.

My question is-is bleach what I should run through the sytem to kill them? If so, what type of concentration? I have a 90 gallon display plus a fuge (also has dinos)and a sump -about 140 gallons of water. Or is there something else I could run through it. At this point, for some reason, the dinos only grow on the glass and pumps. They were originally on the rocks but I scrubbed them and turned the lights out for a week. They never came back on the rocks but always come back on the glass-have run several no lights periods.
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  #30  
Old 12/15/2006, 10:31 PM
Zoom Zoom is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mcurl98
I have my PH between 8.4 to 8.5 24/7. Been like that for 3 days. Dinos are still growing. I upped it to run between 8.5 to 8.6. WIll try that for 2 days. If they still seem to be actively growing at those levels, I'm going to pull everything out and run bleach (I think) through the system. This worked for others. I keep the PH high by using an aqualifter pump in a bucket of Kalkwasser (very concentrated). The pump is connected to a PH controller and it works out well-except for the fact my tank looks like crap as there is white everywhere.

My question is-is bleach what I should run through the sytem to kill them? If so, what type of concentration? I have a 90 gallon display plus a fuge (also has dinos)and a sump -about 140 gallons of water. Or is there something else I could run through it. At this point, for some reason, the dinos only grow on the glass and pumps. They were originally on the rocks but I scrubbed them and turned the lights out for a week. They never came back on the rocks but always come back on the glass-have run several no lights periods.

Is only two days ? i saw no change for at list five- six days so give it some time.
I still have dinos but not like the way it was i think i'm about 50% better now but they still not all dead- if i skip a kalk dose i can see them start to grow more the only problem i have with dosing all the kalk - almost all my SPS getting bleached at the tips- and my pumps getting full of calcium and stop running i have to clean the pumps weekly now.
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  #31  
Old 12/15/2006, 10:47 PM
mcurl98 mcurl98 is offline
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I'm not looking for death in two days but I am looking for a decrease in the growth. Seems as if they continue to flourish while at 8.6 or so for 2-3 days that thinking they will eventuall die might just be wishful thinking. When you say you saw no change, do you mean you saw no die off or that they continued to grow, as normal, for 5-6 days?

Yeah, I have the pump problem too.
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  #32  
Old 12/15/2006, 11:00 PM
Zoom Zoom is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mcurl98
I'm not looking for death in two days but I am looking for a decrease in the growth. Seems as if they continue to flourish while at 8.6 or so for 2-3 days that thinking they will eventually die might just be wishful thinking. When you say you saw no change, do you mean you saw no die off or that they continued to grow, as normal, for 5-6 days?

Yeah, I have the pump problem too.
They never stop growing still do but i slow them down alat.
Yes a saw no difference on there growth for a week and then i siphoned them all out with the Magnum canister filter i use the micron cartridge to get them out .
and usually they will take about two days to come back just as strong but after five days of the PH of 8.5 most of the time about 8.2 in the morning- I saw them taking as long as a week to get to the point that i can see them start to float up to the top of the rocks . It works so far like i say not 100% but it made a difference i'm just getting tired dosing 500Mg of kalk a week in to my tank.
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  #33  
Old 12/15/2006, 11:29 PM
seachem seachem is offline
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Hate to post out of place but given the subject matter here I thought this might be of interest to some degree. We are experimenting further with this now.

http://seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=395
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  #34  
Old 12/16/2006, 12:10 AM
mcurl98 mcurl98 is offline
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Keep us updated-there seems to be a lot of people who are currently trying to battle dinos. Do you recommend running the Cuprisorb in a phosphate type reactor or just putting it in the flow in the sump?
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  #35  
Old 12/16/2006, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by seachem
Hate to post out of place but given the subject matter here I thought this might be of interest to some degree. We are experimenting further with this now.

http://seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=395
We know all about the Brown Slime or "Snot" algae,
We are fighting DINOS. Not cyanobacteria .
Do you have anything that will kill Dinoflagellates ??
This is what they look like.

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  #36  
Old 12/16/2006, 12:36 AM
seachem seachem is offline
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Looking at the picture you've supplied here and given the description from the gentleman it may very well have been Dinos Steve. Unfortunately he did not supply pictures.

As I said we're looking into. In any case, it certainly would not hurt to give it a try. Even if his experience was limited to brown slime or snot there may be possible similarities in weaknesses. Merely a thought for you to ponder.

Would simply use in moderate to high flow area of filter. You might try a reactor but I often find the resin beads are very light and tend to escape the reactors easily.
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  #37  
Old 12/16/2006, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by seachem
Looking at the picture you've supplied here and given the description from the gentleman it may very well have been Dinos Steve. Unfortunately he did not supply pictures.

As I said we're looking into. In any case, it certainly would not hurt to give it a try. Even if his experience was limited to brown slime or snot there may be possible similarities in weaknesses. Merely a thought for you to ponder.

Would simply use in moderate to high flow area of filter. You might try a reactor but I often find the resin beads are very light and tend to escape the reactors easily.
Usually a good amount of dinos will kill all the cyno that is in any tank.
I can kill the cyno just by using Chemy-Clean by BE .
Nothing will touch Dinos the only thing did any difference to me was high PH above 8.4 and that only kill about 50% of them- i also notice that low light duration will keep them from growing as fast .
PS, i like your new reef salt mix i order four buckets of it
I also use Cuprisorb to get the copper out of my quarantine tank many times it made with very small beads and it need to be put in a 400 micron bag or it will not stay in the bag. I will try some in my 200g reef tank and let you all know -i may have to order it from some where .
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  #38  
Old 12/16/2006, 01:12 AM
mcurl98 mcurl98 is offline
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I would say what the guy was describing was clearly dinos even though he was incorrectly referring to it as cyano. I'll give it a shot as well.
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  #39  
Old 12/16/2006, 01:14 AM
seachem seachem is offline
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Yes, please let us know if you see in results on your Dinos. Would be interesting to then isolate things further based on knowledge of the specific resins in CupriSorb.
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  #40  
Old 12/16/2006, 02:10 PM
wrassie86 wrassie86 is offline
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One of the ways DR Ron has said to take care of them is.either 5-10 % water change daily (i forget which) for 7 days than a larger change at the end while sucking scraping them out. wait a week and do again if needed.
I did the weeks worth and saw little change.then chickened out to do it again.since i'm not a fan of big or weekly water changes anymore plus i did not know if something was coming in with the new water.

One of the ways i used my magnum 350 was to have it draw water from mid way in the tank and dump into a overflow.so the skimmer could get the dino's.I just ran carbon in the basket with no filters.found it to be pretty effective at catching them when free floating.

I wont say my little fight is over yet,but pretty darn close.I might try Rons way one more time and see if that delivers the one two punch that finishes it off.
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  #41  
Old 12/16/2006, 03:05 PM
GSerg2 GSerg2 is offline
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For what it is worth to everyone. I will tell you what I am doing to defeat dinos (a nearly complete success so far).

1. Turn off lighting completely for 2 days (3 is better), then slowly start ramping them back up 1 or 2 hours at a time each day until you reach normal.
2. Run UV sterilizer 24x7.
3. Run fresh, high quality carbon 24x7 (changed weekly).
4. Run PolyFilter 24x7 (changed weekly)
5. Skim heavy and wet.
6. Cut feeding in half.
7. Run a 10 micron filter bag changed every day (from what I have read dinos are 15-40 microns)
8. As often as possible (every day or two), siphon as much as you can off the rocks and sand. I do this by starting a siphon into a doubled-up filter bag setting in my sump so I don't have to replace any water. Then use a baster to blow off the rocks. I actually run a 1 micron bag while I am blasting everything off the rocks.
9. Make sure my RO water is 0 tds.
10. Run chaeto in refugium and keep it cleaned and trimmed.

When I started, the dinos were so bad that I could not see the rocks or most of the sand. Now I only have a few tiny patches and it continues to get better. I am down to siphoning once a week or so and I am back to feeding normally. I am still running the UV, polyfilter, carbon and 10 micron bags.
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  #42  
Old 12/16/2006, 03:59 PM
atvdave atvdave is offline
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This is how I got rid of 95% of them.

1) I first cut my lighting off for 3 days.

2) Added 2tps of Kalk to 1 cup of RO water and slowly pored it into the tank 2 times every day. ( too keep the PH up).

3) Put a filter sock in my sump and using a scarper I fanned off my rocks, glass, and sand to get the dinos break away into my sump.

4) I covered my 2 corner overflows so light wouldn't shine into the overflow.

5) After the 3 day blackout of the lights I turned my lights back on for only 4 hours a day. (Actinics 4hr, & bright light 3hr) for 2 weeks. I'm now up to- Actinics 7hr & bright lights 6hr..

-----------------------------------------------------------------

I can now only see a small amount of Dino's on my LR and power heads.

I also have a 7 or 8 corals and all lived through this ordeal. My clam even survived the no-light blackout.


I am very interested in Seachems Cuprisorb cause I want to get my lights back on for around 10hr's a day to get my coral growth back.

Hope this helped some of you.
  #43  
Old 12/16/2006, 04:36 PM
Zoom Zoom is offline
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I don't know where all this dinos come from looks like alat of people have them now. My tank is 13 years old i never had them - ever till a year a go.
One more set back .
I'm getting tired.......
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  #44  
Old 12/16/2006, 04:55 PM
atvdave atvdave is offline
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I had my old tank ( a corner 90 ) running for over 3 years and never had any.

I upgraded into a 125 72" long tank in the spring. I switched to a 72" t-5 fixture and started purchasing corals through people here on RC.

I had a lot of things/changed happen all at once so I can't pinpoint where mine came from but I'm 90% sure I got it from some corals I got here on RC.

I didn't quarantine the corals before I put them into my main tank, I know I should have but I didn't.
  #45  
Old 12/16/2006, 06:55 PM
wrassie86 wrassie86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zoom
I don't know where all this dinos come from looks like alat of people have them now. My tank is 13 years old i never had them - ever till a year a go.
One more set back .
I'm getting tired.......
Steve
Is your tank bare bottom?

I know that mine came from using some old dried out pieces of base rock that i had attached some frags too.Atleast thats where i first noticed them pop up.If i had known thats what it was,theres no way i would have left those rocks in mistake to never be made again thats for sure.
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  #46  
Old 12/16/2006, 07:08 PM
Zoom Zoom is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by wrassie86
Steve
Is your tank bare bottom?

The only thing i put in the tank in the last two years was a small container of Chaeto i bought from a reefer here in RC.
Here is a picture of the tank about a year a go.
BB for the last six years.
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  #47  
Old 12/16/2006, 07:41 PM
wrassie86 wrassie86 is offline
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Nice looking tank i've seen it before
hard to say how they got a foot hold.
Are your rocks also the same age?or do you swap some out now and then?
I wondered if your rocks could be full/leaching and that was the reason for all the po4 remover use.or if you were just a heavy feeder.
i see that awsome Emp in there.
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  #48  
Old 12/16/2006, 08:11 PM
Zoom Zoom is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by wrassie86
Nice looking tank i've seen it before
hard to say how they got a foot hold.
Are your rocks also the same age?or do you swap some out now and then?
I wondered if your rocks could be full/leaching and that was the reason for all the po4 remover use.or if you were just a heavy feeder.
i see that awsome Emp in there.
Ye the rock is about 14 years old never add any .
I use Rowa just because i was thinking i had some po4 .
My deltec rowa reactor hold 1000 Mg so started slow and when up to full charge.
After i got a new low po4 colorimeter i saw was no none po4 in that tank and alat in my 90 G FOWLR tank so no more rowa i took it out and use it on the 90g tank for now.
Yes i feed heavy two times a day always did .
I change nothing i been doing reefs for a long time this dinos is kicking my A** for sure.
I was just to busy last night with Xmas shopping and all, i did not do my nightly Kalk dose- today they are getting a hold off the reef tank so quickly they are all over the rocks already.
I'm ready to change over to fresh water fish tank
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  #49  
Old 12/16/2006, 08:38 PM
tuberider tuberider is offline
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I wonder if adding a carbon source would speed up the dinos growth, or allow other bacteria to get a foot hold, and outcompete the dinos. The reason I wonder is that I've witnessed on two separate occasions bacterial blooms followed by dino death. However the outcome was a byproduct of a different intention.

Just wondering out loud.
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  #50  
Old 12/16/2006, 08:56 PM
wrassie86 wrassie86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by tuberider
I wonder if adding a carbon source would speed up the dinos growth, or allow other bacteria to get a foot hold, and outcompete the dinos. The reason I wonder is that I've witnessed on two separate occasions bacterial blooms followed by dino death. However the outcome was a byproduct of a different intention.

Just wondering out loud.
Ive used vodka on off for a few years.I started dosing again once i found out what they were.I'm not positive, but i think in my case the dinos started growing faster.
Ive gone for the bloom before also for other reasons,But cant say i would do it in a tank full of sps corals again.it really can take its toll on them.
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