Tunze nano mod - Page 21

mr pink floyd · #**501** 05/03/2007, 04:30 PM

its hard to find a thread lately without him proving us all to be idiots with his greater knowledge of all that is talked about on RC

RichConley · #**502** 05/03/2007, 04:51 PM

GSMguy, I'm not trying to pick a fight.

I'm just asking, whats the point? Everyone buys Tunzes because you dont have to mod them. If you're gonna hack the pump apart, why not buy something thats cheaper, and has a higher ceiling. Building ball shaped housings for a MJ wouldnt be much harder than the DIY work you guys are doing in here.

I can see the merit of working on the controllable 6055, but the noncontrollable ones just seem like a waste of time.

GSMguy · #**503** 05/03/2007, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RichConley
GSMguy, I'm not trying to pick a fight.

I'm just asking, whats the point? Everyone buys Tunzes because you dont have to mod them. If you're gonna hack the pump apart, why not buy something thats cheaper, and has a higher ceiling. Building ball shaped housings for a MJ wouldnt be much harder than the DIY work you guys are doing in here.

I can see the merit of working on the controllable 6055, but the noncontrollable ones just seem like a waste of time.

i like that they are pointable,black and come with a magnet and yes the 6055 is going to be quite cool no maxi mod can do what it can. im still not sure i wouldent rather just have a vortech instead of all these nanos

jacmyoung · #**504** 05/03/2007, 04:59 PM

I hope this is going to work. Thank you GSMGuy for the headsup.

First some stats for my tank. It is a 120g semi-circular (bowfront) at 30" tall. The tank back wall is 50"x30" tall, the deepest part of the tank (front to back at center) is 25".

The pump is placed at the upper corner about 1" below waterline, pointed 30 degree down at the front curved glass, the flow hits the front glass then follows along the curve traveling about 7' down to the opposite lower corner, no other pump was running when the video was shot and the pump was doing about 2,600gph since I had to turn it down a little with my controller to keep the total watts at or below 28W.

BTW, this was my very first attempt at shooting a video on the fly so please excuse me for the poor quality:

RichConley · #**505** 05/03/2007, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GSMguy
i like that they are pointable,black and come with a magnet and yes the 6055 is going to be quite cool no maxi mod can do what it can. im still not sure i wouldent rather just have a vortech instead of all these nanos

Pointable, black, and magnet, can all be done on a maxijet, for less than the nanos cost.

As to controllability, I hear you. I dont think it makes a big difference, but people love it, so I can see the draw. The 6055s I can see modding for the controlability, but once you start hacking up the shroud, the motor is all that matters, and the smaller ones dont offer much more than the MJ.

GSMguy · #**506** 05/03/2007, 05:06 PM

take a turkey baster and blow some bubles into that bad boy id love to see a vid.

your mods make the pump more atractive than stock

jacmyoung · #**507** 05/03/2007, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RichConley
GSMguy, I'm not trying to pick a fight.

...

Of course you were, by using a set of falsed data: 3000gph@11W?

Why can't people buy 6025 at $62, enjoy the best CS you can get, covered by the 2-year warranty, and pump out 1,250 gph at 7W? And the whole mod takes only 5 minutes, you get the best looking small stream pump on the market.

BTW, an MJMod with all the parts and mag holder and splash guard will cost you more than $62 and it is bigger and uglier IMO.

The only item that voids the warranty is my 6055 super mod.

RichConley · #**508** 05/03/2007, 05:16 PM

Jmacyoung, my data is in no way false, and I'm insulted that you'd say it is. Seriously, these thigns have been tested many times. Do your research before making accusations.

I can go dig up my parts list, but its actually under $40 for maximod with mag holder, etc.

jacmyoung · #**509** 05/03/2007, 05:20 PM

Let me put it very simply for you, if you can do 3,000gph at 11W for $40, yet everyone is spending $300 to $800 for the same pump, either the world is mad or you are, but you can only pick one

kslick · #**510** 05/03/2007, 05:28 PM

Isn't this a Tunze Mod thread, not whose is better MJ or Tunze?

GSMguy · #**511** 05/03/2007, 05:28 PM

damn this is what i mean rich how long have you been waiting to jump on this thread and champion the maxi mod as a better alternative

RichConley · #**512** 05/03/2007, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jacmyoung
Let me put it very simply for you, if you can do 3,000gph at 11W for $40, yet everyone is spending $300 to $800 for the same pump, either the world is mad or you are, but you can only pick one

Umm.sure. You mean the same way everyone is paying $600 for a small deltec skimmer that can't keep up with a $300 bubblemaster? Price has nothing to do with performance.

GSMGuy, I asked a question. Chill out.

I just wanted to point out that if people are looking for a cheap way to get big flow, this isnt it. If you've already got nanostreams, sure.

I thought this place was about discussion. Apparantly I was mistaken.

A couple of pointers: You'd get more flow if you closed off that last opening on the pump. Its too far forward, and isnt acting as an intake. You'd also be better off opening the slits on the bakc of the pump up some more.

burton14e7 · #**513** 05/03/2007, 06:14 PM

I'm in no means trying to argue but could you provide us a link that shows the 3000gph. It sounds pretty amazing and I'd like to see it. But you know...a bmw driver will never drive a mercedes regardless of performace

skydancer · #**514** 05/03/2007, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RichConley
Pointable, black, and magnet, can all be done on a maxijet, for less than the nanos cost.

Hey Rich,
I have two modded MJ1200's and I agree with you on the flow rate. I don't know about 3000GPH at 11W but they do put out quite a bit of water.

But please keep in mind that size is IMPORTANT to some people, like me. I like the powerhead (nanostream) to be half the size of the MJmod. It JUST looks better in my tank. I prefer the corals to take up more space than the powerheads. So, I'm sorry but the $40 argument in a hobby that costs thousands just to get in it, is absolutely miniscule. For God's sake, we pay 50 bucks on a coral!!! that can die in 1 day...

keinreis · #**515** 05/03/2007, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by skydancer
Hey Rich,
I have two modded MJ1200's and I agree with you on the flow rate. I don't know about 3000GPH at 11W but they do put out quite a bit of water.

But please keep in mind that size is IMPORTANT to some people, like me. I like the powerhead (nanostream) to be half the size of the MJmod. It JUST looks better in my tank. I prefer the corals to take up more space than the powerheads. So, I'm sorry but the $40 argument in a hobby that costs thousands just to get in it, is absolutely miniscule. For God's sake, we pay 50 bucks on a coral!!! that can die in 1 day...

well put!

jacmyoung · #**516** 05/03/2007, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RichConley
...
A couple of pointers: You'd get more flow if you closed off that last opening on the pump. Its too far forward, and isnt acting as an intake. You'd also be better off opening the slits on the bakc of the pump up some more.

The last opening got another 200 gph out of the pump, I have my bag test to prove it. I don't want to touch anything in the back because I still stand a chance to replace the part if it goes down, maybe not under warranty but repair or replacement cost is discounted by Roger.

How about your MJMods?

The fact of matter is all these mag-driven pumps are the same principle, you can make them as efficient as possible but not by much, for you to claim that your MJMod can do 3000 at 11W, when the 6100 does 3200 at 45W, the Vortech 3000 at 35W and the 6055mod 2600 at 28W, perhaps you need to double check your test equipment.

jacmyoung · #**517** 05/03/2007, 10:36 PM

Rich, to be fair your point of not opening slits in front of the prop is valid, I am not disputing that, only that you did not pay attention to the fact that the tips of my prop are still in front of even the last opening, right in the face of the screen. It is as compact a design as you can get.

And since you were also in the Tunze vs. Vortech thread using the Tunze 6060 to prove your point about your MJMod, I feel compelled to straighten things out a little for you.

The 6060 is rated 1500gph with a 11W motor, the MJ1200 has a 20W motor and can be over driven to 30W (talk about inefficient design) so the comparison is totally flawed.

And the point of how far the jet stream can reach is highly dependent on the size of the nozzle. For example my modded 6025 at 1250 gph can reach as far a point as my modded 6055 with a 1.5" coupler nozzle at 2600gph, because the 6025 nozzle is half the size of my DIY large nozzle, so the velocity exiting the nozzle is the same and the flow reach is the same.

Can you therefore conclude my modded 6025 is as powerful as my modded 6055?

Give it a rest Rich, MJMods were a great DIY project by some of our brilliant members, and many of us had tried and benefited from them, but its time has passed.

jacmyoung · #**518** 05/05/2007, 12:24 AM

Just got my pocket multimeter test gear, did some probing.

When the controller was at 100%, the Kill-A-Watt reported on the AC end 28W and 440mA (transformer max is 800mA), the pocket meter reported on the DC side 0.93A and 24V. The 24V was just set by the transformer when at full speed.

When the controller was at 30%, AC end was 13W and 220mA, DC end was 0.43A (volts not checked).

So the motor is drawing 0.93A max, still some ways from the 1.2A max current. And the motor was drawing a little over 22W, the transformer was drawing close to 6W. I assumed the controller draw was negligible.

I think I am safe?

bergzy · #**519** 05/05/2007, 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jacmyoung

BTW, an MJMod with all the parts and mag holder and splash guard will cost you more than $62 and it is bigger and uglier IMO.

let the pictures decide which one would rather have in their main display?

mj mods:

nothing against mj mods btw. this is just a pictorial comparison. mj mods serve those who prefer the mj mods.

quote from mj mods website: ' A MJ 900 can be modified from 250 GPH to 1500 GPH and the MJ 1200 can be modified into an incredible 2,400 GPH pump.'

mj mod total cost without shipping for:

mj 1200+mod kit+ball holder=$80.97

i did not use their basic magnet holder price because they are not adjustable. i put a mj 1200 (non modded on my kill-a-watt) drew 20 watts. i do not know if modding them lowers their wattage usage.

tunze 6025 (internal shroud modification would not be noticeable):

total cost $61.84
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_search...rch=nanostream

i did not include prices for tools as this would basically be tough to impossible to determine what y'all have.

jacmyoung · #**520** 05/05/2007, 07:53 AM

Wait Ben, where is the power cord on your 6025? Did you do some special mod but not telling us?

bergzy · #**521** 05/05/2007, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jacmyoung
Wait Ben, where is the power cord on your 6025? Did you do some special mod but not telling us?

that is a pic i took off the net via google image.

my nano's are mounted on top of my eurobraced tank rather than on the side of the tank.

believe it or not...i like the look of the nano's in the front of the tank even though i could easily move them to the back.

with the nano mounted on the euro bracing...there is NO electrical wire visible and the result is a very very clean look.

i have a convention to attend at this very moment...

when i get back, i'll take a pic of it!

mano1192 · #**522** 05/05/2007, 11:29 AM

"its hard to find a thread lately without him proving us all to be idiots with his greater knowledge of all that is talked about on RC"

Rich never fails to be nothing but a anoying buzz kill. Everyone is happy with their nano's being a 1/3 the size of the maximod, a sexy look, and producing great flow. Whats the big friggin deal... this guy just really ****es me off. Hes the same way on the boston reefers forums... Nothing but useless banter, thinking HIS way is the ONLY way for everything, seriously Rich you need some prozack or something.

jacmyoung · #**523** 05/05/2007, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bergzy
that is a pic i took off the net via google image.

my nano's are mounted on top of my eurobraced tank rather than on the side of the tank.

...

Holly C%$#! I never thought of that, my eurobrace is only 1" above the water where my 6055 is now:

I will definately try to mount it there next time and see if it would work and how it would look.

laverda · #**524** 05/05/2007, 01:21 PM

jacmyoung I like the look of your table acros. Do you have tank photo that is clearer?

jacmyoung · #**525** 05/05/2007, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by laverda
jacmyoung I like the look of your table acros. Do you have tank photo that is clearer?

They are faux coral, there is a full tank picture a few pages back.

Armed with the knowledge that my 6055 super-mod with the Stream 6100 prop was still some ways below the max motor rating, I did the unthinkable, and slapped a 6200 prop on.

The 6200 prop is much larger in diameter and pitch than the 6100 prop. As a result it fits even more perfectly on the Aquaclear 110 filter magnet driver, almost as if they were made for each other. But the diameter is too big for the DIY shroud. Additionally the unmodded 6200 prop would draw 1.6A in full speed, so some trimming was in order.

While doing the trimming, I realized I could even fine tune the trimming of each blades to the point that the unit was so balanced it actually had less vibration than that from the stock 6055 prop.

I am not talking about noise since both were dead silent, rather pump vibration when turned on. The vibration always exists, it can be felt while holding the live pump by hand, but the advantage of hand trimming the prop. vs. mass produced prop. is you can achieve more balance even with the much larger prop. and at much greater force, if you trim the prop carefully and properly.

In any case below are the stats with the slightly trimmed 6200 prop on the 6055:

Total watts: 35W (by Kill-A-Watt meter);
Total AC current: 520mA (by Kill-A-Watt meter, 6055 transformer max is 800mA);
DC current: 1.13A (1.2A max for both the transformer and the motor);
DC voltage: 23V;
Estimated motor draw: 26W;
Estimated transformer draw: 9W;
and the controller's draw is still negligible.

And the flow is about 2,900 gph, very closely tracking the Vortech pump.

Now I am going to put this little monster in the tank on 30/100 pulse for an endurance test, someone wake me up three months from now when you all have your own 6055s, and I will let you know if my little monster is still running strong or has succumbed to a fiery flame.