How to dip new frags/colonies.

Brock Fluharty · #1 01/15/2007, 06:47 PM

What do you guys and gals dip new SPS frags and colonies into? FW? Iodine? Lugols? For how long, and any other specific info?

Thanks!

charmander59 · #2 01/15/2007, 07:23 PM

I'm interested in the same thing. Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Thanks!

ReefWreak · #3 01/15/2007, 11:01 PM

I don't know the doses, so forgive me, but most hardcore SPSers I know dip in an elevated bath of FlatwormExit, Interceptor, and sometimes iodine as well. I've heard for 15 minutes or so, and they should be fine.

A while ago people made a big deal about Tropic Marin's TMPCC for dipping, but I think the first one is more potent.

todd rose · #4 01/15/2007, 11:14 PM

tagging along

lpkirby · #5 01/16/2007, 07:43 AM

I use Lugols solution for the past few months as recommended from users here.

poknsnok · #6 01/16/2007, 07:58 AM

interceptor needs to be used for 3 hours minimum... I am interested in those that use FWE for dipping new specimens ...

MiddletonMark · #7 01/16/2007, 09:20 AM

I use interceptor as a treatment [6 hours] ... other than that, I prefer to QT vs. dip in an iodine/TMPCC solution. [I'd rather not kill off the fauna on the coral, nor the bacteria].

surfnvb7 · #8 01/16/2007, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MiddletonMark
I use interceptor as a treatment [6 hours] ... other than that, I prefer to QT vs. dip in an iodine/TMPCC solution. [I'd rather not kill off the fauna on the coral, nor the bacteria].

how much intercepter do you use per volume of water for your dip? just curious.

MiddletonMark · #9 01/16/2007, 10:15 AM

Good question. I broke up a couple pills quite a while ago + vacuum sealed them to more appropriate doses ... I know it's well over the standard dose [3 to 4 x I think].
I use in a bucket w/ powerhead and heater for 6 hours.

LobsterOfJustice · #10 01/16/2007, 04:06 PM

I used to do a 6 hour dip with 2x strength with interceptor... But I had to mix up 5g at a time... not practical when buying a few frags. I also lost some frags this way.

I do it different now. As I'm acclimating, I do an iodine bath (enough to tint the water), and after the iodine has diffused I put some interceptor in... way more than reccomended, but I dont do it for very long (30 minutes at most).

MiddletonMark · #11 01/16/2007, 04:39 PM

Ah, often I'll do a w/c - use `old tank water' for the interceptor treatment + add any new water to the tank. That way I know the dip-water is 100% fine [what the coral's about to go into] vs. newly mixed water.

JARJAR · #12 01/17/2007, 10:57 AM

Is the iodine bottle from seachem is good for that purpose. I'm using 1 cap of iodine per month in my tank. But I will receive some wild colonies of zoathids in few weeks and I don't want to risk introducing bad stuff ( i.e. red bug, flat worm) in my tank.....

MiddletonMark · #13 01/17/2007, 11:39 AM

Well, for red bugs I'm not very impressed with iodine dips [the testing suggested that fatal for red bugs dose = very close to fatal for corals].

For monti nudis, it's somewhat effective, but not 100%. For acro-eating flatworms I don't think it's 100% effective either ... seems like there's little for these that is truly assured removal.

In the end, QT and regular inspection are the best practice.

To add, I don't like iodine as it can affect the coral/etc negatively - as far as I understand, Acropora have a layer of coral-associated bacteria on the surface that they can gain nutrient/etc from ... and as iodine likely harms this, I tend to avoid Iodine unless I have specific reason to use it on a coral. JMO, though ... lots of folks seem to think different.

MCsaxmaster · #14 01/17/2007, 05:56 PM

Lugol's is a tissue fixative. It is meant to kill things (all things) and preserve them against bacterial decomposition. It can be used medicinally, but like most medicines it is toxic to everything, but more toxic to the things we want to kill than the things we want to save. At least it if it is effective that is the case. Lugol's works great when treating for bacterially mediated infections on corals IME but often won't kill coral parasites until a dosage that is often lethal to the corals as well.

Chris

SERVO · #15 01/17/2007, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MiddletonMark
I use interceptor as a treatment [6 hours] ... other than that, I prefer to QT vs. dip in an iodine/TMPCC solution. [I'd rather not kill off the fauna on the coral, nor the bacteria].

Quote:

Originally posted by MiddletonMark
Well, for red bugs I'm not very impressed with iodine dips [the testing suggested that fatal for red bugs dose = very close to fatal for corals].

For monti nudis, it's somewhat effective, but not 100%. For acro-eating flatworms I don't think it's 100% effective either ... seems like there's little for these that is truly assured removal.

In the end, QT and regular inspection are the best practice.

To add, I don't like iodine as it can affect the coral/etc negatively - as far as I understand, Acropora have a layer of coral-associated bacteria on the surface that they can gain nutrient/etc from ... and as iodine likely harms this, I tend to avoid Iodine unless I have specific reason to use it on a coral. JMO, though ... lots of folks seem to think different.

Very good posts; I whole heartedly agree. I use 10X the concentration of Milbemycin in a 6 hour bath (sometimes longer), a dip of betadine/or iodine.

Using Betadine is a very popular method in Europe. The recommendation for the bath is 3 mls of betadine per liter of water for 20/25 minutes.

In the end there is no substitution for quarintining all livestock. The hasle is worth not infecting an established tank filled with SPS. In tank treatments for red bugs is easy enough, but until we have a in tank treatment for AEFW, I doubt we will ever irradicate them.

All of these dips/baths are just conjecture. Once we identify a pathogen (which really hasn't been truly effectively done as of yet) it needs to be studied. I think that the best way to determine if we have an effective treatment is to determine the Minimal Inhibitory Concentration (MIC). In antibiotics, the Minimal Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) is defined as the lowest concentration of drug that inhibits more than 99% of the bacterial population. In this case, the worms. We need to have a scientific approach without antecdote. You also need to establish the kill dose, where you induce death of the coral. By setting up various concentrations in test tubes, you can determine this and ultimately know what is the best protocol. Until then Q-tine,Q-tine,Q-tine,Q-tine!!!