Need HELP! Cyano rules my tank!

Frozen Roadkill · #1 01/18/2007, 11:19 PM

Tank run down:
12 gallon Nano cube DX
1 yellow coris wrasse
1 3-4" N. wennerae mantis
Small rock of beautiful orange Acanthastrea Lordhowensisoas
small rock of palyth
dozen assorted zoanthids
2-3 Astrea snails
??? Blue/red legged hermits

Alright, I'm getting down to my last resort, a heaping dose of Red Slime Remover. I have been battling Cyano Bacteria for months now. I have increased flow (maxijet 1200), taken out about half of my sand and the empty shells at the bottom. I cut back of the amount of food my animals get. I wash the sponges out every day. I change the water (I make sure to change a lot every time, and suck the back filter compartments clean) but the cyano is back by the next day. I have switched the store I buy water from, thinking maybe I was getting bad water.

My turbo snail died, and everything else, minus the mantis and fish, has slowed down considerably and i believe is slowly getting poisioned to death by the cyano . My Acanthanstrea, which was actually growing in this toxic mix for a while, is finally getting beaten down as well. The cyano forms its thick sheet mostly over the sand, but will cover the back wall, rocks, and coral (minus the Acanthanstrea itself, which it doesnt touch)

I have left chemical warfare out for a last ditch effort, because I dont want it to harm my mantis or mess with his next molt (I read it could mess up a molt and kill him), but nothing else has worked. I am either going to give my animals to my brother for his store, use the chemicals, or hopefully, get mantis friendly help from someone to beat this very formitable foe.

I appreciate all advice! Thank you!

Illuminati · #2 01/18/2007, 11:43 PM

What media are you using? And phosphate remover like Rowaphos or phosban?

I had a cyano outbreak and phosban in a mesh baggie tossed in the back chamber handled it.

thedude15810 · #3 01/19/2007, 12:44 AM

She's used hydrocarbon, purigen, then Seachem "Seagel" (a mix of carbon and seachem's phosphate remover)

drummereef · #4 01/19/2007, 01:58 AM

I think the water source is suspect. Have you measured the tds of the store water? Also, what is your current params including nitrate and phosphates?

russ49merc · #5 01/19/2007, 01:15 PM

what kind of water are you using to top off tank?
and how often do you feed the corals?

miked1974 · #6 01/19/2007, 01:22 PM

Have you tried changing out the light bulbs? I have read that after a year or so, the PC light bulb spectrums will change and can cause problems like that. Not sure if that is the problem here, but just a thought.

Frozen Roadkill · #7 01/19/2007, 05:01 PM

Today the tank looks terrible still, but the Palythoas and Zoas are mostly open, and the Acanthanstrea is looking healthier. I forgot to add also that lately a really green algae has been forming on the back wall, alongside the cyano, but it isnt doing any harm, its just interesting.

I did change the water supplier and now I get water from Dallas North Aquarium, which is a pretty big store. Its the only other close LFS.

I don't feed my corals anymore, becauce the Acanthanstrea has been feeling too crudy to eat (Usually a pinched off peice of krill)

I haven't changed the bulbs, but my aquarium isnt even a year old yet, can lights go bad that fast?

And I top off the tank with freshwater when it needs it, but Iv been changing the water about once a week now so it doesnt evaporate quick enough to need topping off.

Right now I have a baggie of carbon in the tank, cause the purigen didnt do anything either way, but right now im gonna toss it another baggie of seagel just for kicks.

russ49merc · #8 01/19/2007, 05:14 PM

no what I was asking is do you use R/O water or tap water and do you have a TDS meter to test the water?

shag26272 · #9 01/19/2007, 09:57 PM

yeah it might be your lights, the only bulbs I would use for a year is MH's, im not sure about T5's though but CF and VHO i would change at 6 months

jamynsdad · #10 01/19/2007, 10:35 PM

will a poly filter take care of cyano?

shag26272 · #11 01/19/2007, 10:37 PM

no I dont think, its either caused by phosphates or old bulbs usually

chocolateblnt · #12 01/20/2007, 03:44 AM

erythromycin ... I can't believe no one ever suggests this stuff. duH! Get the one that is white powder in capsules, a large LFS should have this on hand. It worked in the 80's, it worked for me and my buddies, and it costs around $10. I have never ever seen a cyano outbreak in my tank and it worked in 24hrs. Just remember to turn off your skimmer.

sdexcalibur1 · #13 02/08/2007, 02:19 PM

this might work for you, Turn off your lights for 3-4 days, Don't know if it will mess with the things in the tank, But I have only fish, After 3 days the red stuff is compleatly gone, I cut way back on my lighting and it keeps it at bay

Doglover_50 · #14 02/08/2007, 05:46 PM

Choco, let me share a little story. My tang in larger reef developed popeye--I was told basically this same thing---use antibiotic (maricyn). Trusting my source, I did. i call maricyn the next day, customer support says, "Oh, we do not recommend this for reef tanks, though we used to think it was safe. We are currently in the process of redoing the instructions suggesting NOT for reef, as it may do more damage to beneficial bacteria than we originally thought. Gulp! Managed to clear my tank fast as hell---probably is okay, but maybe not quite the sure thing you are suggesting.

slukach · #15 02/08/2007, 07:07 PM

Roadkill,

I have this stuff called chemiclean (you can get info about it on the Dr. F&S website). It is a red slime remover and is for cyano bacteria. I actually purchased it by accident. I was trying to get chemipure and I bought 3 containers of chemiclean.

Check out the product info on the website and if you want a container, I will send you one free. I will never use 3 of them in my life time.

Let me know....

Steve