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  #351  
Old 04/30/2006, 10:51 AM
swedish steel swedish steel is offline
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I forgot to add that these were drilled in an upright position with my wife or one of my two children squirting water on the hole saw every few seconds. Let the drill and hole saw do the final cutting at the end with very little pressure to reduce any chipping when the saw breaks through.
  #352  
Old 04/30/2006, 11:28 AM
BigSkyBart BigSkyBart is offline
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FWIW...
What I used as a backstop (if you will) for my drilling thru was a piece of 2" thick styrofoam. I took a small square about 6" or so and held that in place behind/below where I was going to drill and propped/wedged it in place with a piece of 2X4 with another piece of styrofoam on the other end. (You are only holding the foam in place, no excessive forces are needed or suggested) Wedged in and well supported, I had almost zero chipping on the cut-through. Gentle drill pressure, letting the bit all do the work of course. I used the "plumbers putty dam" method for cooling water.
HTH
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  #353  
Old 04/30/2006, 03:07 PM
Tank102a Tank102a is offline
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I'll try to post some pics of the aquarium later today.
Does anybody know wide the intake and returns are on
the oceanmotions 4way?
  #354  
Old 04/30/2006, 03:28 PM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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I just plumbed mine last night. The 4 way is 1.5" in and 1" out. Paul @ OM can do custom work though if you need a different size.
  #355  
Old 04/30/2006, 04:51 PM
Tank102a Tank102a is offline
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Any pics. of the plumbing?
  #356  
Old 04/30/2006, 05:23 PM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tank102a
Any pics. of the plumbing?
go back one page
  #357  
Old 04/30/2006, 06:15 PM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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if you need other pics I can post them
  #358  
Old 04/30/2006, 09:23 PM
Nathan4Wvu Nathan4Wvu is offline
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How long has it taken on average to get the drill bits from hong kong?
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  #359  
Old 05/01/2006, 12:43 AM
Tank102a Tank102a is offline
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sorry I was looking more of a cheat sheet for the 4way, and maybe some inspiration. What would be my best option for the returns? I know that the have a couple options for the return order. Any suggestions?
  #360  
Old 05/01/2006, 07:31 AM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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The best way that Paul @ OM recommends can be found here . If you can follow that you will get awsome flow in your tank. I couldn't follow that exactly because I don't have the bottom front CL outputs. My CL will blow straight down behind the rocks and that straight forward thru the rocks to the front of the tank. If you're seriously considering an OM talk to Paul, he's very easy to talk to. How big is your tank going to be?
  #361  
Old 05/01/2006, 07:33 AM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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Duh, it's in your sig right? What are the dims on that tank? Is it acrylic? If I was doing a 6 or 8 foot tank, I think I would use two 4 way setups somehow and alternate them, possibly with timers to simulate the tide? I dunno, just a thought.
  #362  
Old 05/01/2006, 08:54 AM
Tank102a Tank102a is offline
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The tank is glass. 96x24x30
The problem I have with two 4 ways or one 8 way is that to many
holes in the aquarium migh weaken it. the glass is 1/2in. If you take 8ft into consideration to many holes are not a good idea.
(That's what my local reef shop owner told me.)
  #363  
Old 05/01/2006, 09:25 AM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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1/2 glass on a 8' tank? Wow, seems like it would be 3/4 or 5/8 at a minimum. I would seriously consult someone who knows more about the technical stuff before I'd drill. Half of those returns on two 4 ways would come over the top so you'd still just be drilling 4 holes theoretically.
  #364  
Old 05/02/2006, 06:10 PM
mnmnm1951 mnmnm1951 is offline
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I have an Oceanic 180G Bowfront and want to put a OceansMotions 8-way on it. I cannot drill the bottom as it is tempered so my only real option is the back. It is very thick glass. Can I drill eight 1-3/4 inch holes for return bulkeads and two 2-inch holes for the Pump feed bulkeads?

I have read the glass-drilling threads and cannot find anyone with experience with this many holes in glass. Can I basically wreck my tank with lots of stress cracks or just plain eventual breakage after filling with 180gallons of water?

I found this pic - don't know where but if this is yours I would love to talk. Will this layout work in a glass tank?


  #365  
Old 05/02/2006, 10:01 PM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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you may want to talk with Paul @ Ocean Motions. He's the one makes them and he consults tons of people. He has probably talked to someone with your same question. If it was me, I'd say yes but I'm not an expert. I have six holes in my 4' tank with no problems in wet testing.
  #366  
Old 05/02/2006, 10:30 PM
swedish steel swedish steel is offline
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mnmnm1951-I'd say go for it. Just keep the edge of the holes at least 1 1/2 diameter of hole being drilled from edge of glass and at least 1/2 of diameter of hole distance from nearby hole. This is per a previously posted response on this thread. Each end glass of my 300 was drilled with four 1 7/8 holes, two 2 5/8 holes and one 3 3/16 hole for a total of 14 holes. I wanted both sides for viewing. Each end will support an Ocean Motions 4-way and two 1 1/2 drains from a weir type overflow.
  #367  
Old 05/02/2006, 11:23 PM
vanceny vanceny is offline
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goldstrip - thanks for taking the time to answer everyones questions.
Now I have another, with 2 1.5" bulkheads in a overflow run by a mag 7, do you think it is necessary to use the elbows in the overflow for the modified external durso? This of couse to minimize the noise.
If not necessary that would help in the dimensions and make the overflow much sleeker.
  #368  
Old 05/03/2006, 06:35 AM
dtaranath dtaranath is offline
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They're not necessary, but it would certainly be quieter with the elbows in.
  #369  
Old 05/03/2006, 09:54 AM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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Dual 1.5" drains with a Mag 7. Hmmm There are so many factors that come into play with the noise issue. The way my drains are, I don't think that a Mag 7 would make any noise but I've never tried it. My Iwaki 70 doesn't make that much drain noise. But I also am using the elbows inside and standpipes outside. If you're worried about space inside the tank, use a shallow internal and larger external box. I've seen it run that way with no elbows or bulkheads in the tank. Can't say if it was quiet or not though.

Did I dodge that question well enough? hahaha, j/k.
  #370  
Old 05/03/2006, 10:35 AM
vanceny vanceny is offline
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that's an interesting idea....

Use a shallow internal overflow combined with an external that can house the standpipes.
  #371  
Old 05/04/2006, 12:42 PM
vanceny vanceny is offline
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So I drilled my first hole last night. It was a 60mm hole for a 1.5" bulkhead. It took over an hour on a 90 gal. Not sure what took so long but I was trying to be patient since I cracked my first tank. I dont think it should have taken so long. My arms are killing me!

What's the recommended rpm for drilling? I'm using a cordless that has a maximum rpm of 950. Its variable speed so I just pull on the trigger about half way. I also used some pumping action about every 10 seconds or so. Maybe I'm not using enough pressure. I've read of others doing 4 holes in an hour. My cordless finanlly ran out of battery and I switched to a corded which seemed to work better.

Any suggestions welcome to speed up my process. I used a template to start the hole then set up a putty dam to hold the water and then drilled away. Seemed like a lifetime.

Vance
  #372  
Old 05/04/2006, 02:25 PM
GoldStripe GoldStripe is offline
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I too used the cordless but quickly switched over to a corded. I found this which gives you guidelines on speed and pressure. Not sure how accurate it is though since it's the only table I've ever seen. My holes also took about an hour each. The people that drilled theirs faster are using more pressure or more speed. I think as long as the bit is cool you can increase either. I opted for more speed over pressure and checked the bit often for temp. It can't hurt to be overly cautious with the speed and/or pressure.
  #373  
Old 05/04/2006, 05:54 PM
Spuds725 Spuds725 is offline
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I finally worked up the nerve to drill a tank today... I bought a 29 for use a a fuge (modular-- tank fees fuge and then drains to main sump).

I drilled a practice (45 mm) hole in a 10 gallon and then drilled the hole in my 29-- both took under 5 minutes... I did it outside and ran a garden hose (real low) over the surface of the glass... only issue was it jumping around when I started (so have a few scratches)... other then that, just as easy as it was described... used a corded drill, medium speed at first, faster with a light touch as I went though the glass (especially light when I was about through)....

Thanks (to everyone) for posting the instructions, tips, and experiences...

Spuds...
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  #374  
Old 05/05/2006, 03:07 PM
vanceny vanceny is offline
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Drilled the second hole last night took about an hour again but did seem to go quicker. I actually started it in the wrong place so I have a ring scrtached into the glass about 1mm deep in the wrong spot. Shouldn't be an issue with integrity of the glass and its on the back which will be painted black.

4 more holes to go = 4 less hours of sleep
no pipes hanging over the top and satisfaction of a job well done = pricelss!
  #375  
Old 05/05/2006, 03:52 PM
dtaranath dtaranath is offline
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all my holes were between 45-60mm on a 90gal as well. Took me about 15 minutes per hole.

Like someone said above, you can go a little faster as long as you have water keeping it cool. Just slow down as you get closer to the other side.
 


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