Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[Siddroww]

Originally posted by KevinM
Siddroww....
Just down that page a bit is a downloadable spreadsheet. It's set up so that you just plug in your numbers and it does all the cypherin'. If you have Excel, that is.

Kev

Thanks Kev. My daughter helped me w/it . LMAO . When I went to highschool algebra was optional . God I felt old asking my 15 year old for help . Talk about behind times . Math is her strong point though and I'm sure I'll get the bill for the tutoring .

Anyhow the formula figures out .677 thick for a 120 and acrylicman says 1/2 is fine . In that formula it also says not to use solvent for the seams and a-Man says weldon 4 , which I believe is a solvent glue .

[Siddroww]

acrylicman,

Thanks for the response . That gives me plenty of info to get started . I think I am going to order some 5/16 and build a 30g sump first to get my feet wet ( No punn intended ) with something that will be hidden .

One thing is I cant find weldon 4 . I looked from my plastic vender where I buy bars to machine and all they have is what I asked about earlier . I have checked Grainger and macalster Carr and I cant find it . I ran a search on altavista and it didnt bring up anything . Where can I buy it ?

[Siddroww]

Never mind I found it . I was looking for weldon and its listed as weld - on . Another dumb question though for a 48x24x24 and a 36x12x12 I was going to order a pint . Should be plenty right ?

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by Flanelcamel
Hi Acrylicman, I have a question regaurding repairs to acrylic. I built a 375g tank for a customer out of 3/4", set it up in his house and then pulled the masking. Right in the center of the front panel was a peice of debris in the casting! I got the supplier to pay for the tank and I built a new one for the customer. Now I have this tank in my shop and am in the process of repairing it. I routed out the defect and it left a 1" by about 1/8" deep hole. I have been practicing filling scrap peices and have had some luck with mc bond thickened up a little. Everything else I use seems to develope bubbles as it dries. Repeted thin layers of fill work, but take forever. Got any experience or suggestions for me? I could put a new front on it, but prefer the chalange of fixing it!
Thanks!
Ray

I've had some success with weldon 40, but there you need to be careful about bubbles.

It is similiar but try that casting polymer that is used to cast objects.

You probably could get it from your distributor.

Company's use it to cast mementos etc.

If you discover a perfect way to do that, please let me know.

Thank you ! Acrylicman

[Siddroww]

A-man,
I have some .312 arriving in this week so I can start a sump this weekend . I am pricing the 1/2 for the tank and was looking at Acrylite GP cast . I have found Acrylite ( R ) at US plastics and it is considerably cheaper . About $303 compared to $410 . What is the difference . I am here in ohio too and wondered if you buy locally . If so who is your vender .

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by Siddroww
A-man,
I have some .312 arriving in this week so I can start a sump this weekend . I am pricing the 1/2 for the tank and was looking at Acrylite GP cast . I have found Acrylite ( R ) at US plastics and it is considerably cheaper . About $303 compared to $410 . What is the difference . I am here in ohio too and wondered if you buy locally . If so who is your vender .

Acrylite R, I think you meant FF.

Don't buy there, it is full retail, very expensive.

Go to a sheet distibutor. (Laird, Commercial,ET and T,Cadillac,Total Plastics.

Acrilite Gp 4 x 8 $160-180

Polycast is very good, same price range.

Don't pay more, call all the places in the phone book.



Keep on fabricating, Sincerely, Acrylicman

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by Siddroww


Thanks Kev. My daughter helped me w/it . LMAO . When I went to highschool algebra was optional . God I felt old asking my 15 year old for help . Talk about behind times . Math is her strong point though and I'm sure I'll get the bill for the tutoring .

Anyhow the formula figures out .677 thick for a 120 and acrylicman says 1/2 is fine . In that formula it also says not to use solvent for the seams and a-Man says weldon 4 , which I believe is a solvent glue .

Not to knock the program, I try not to judge anything,

but, I've built hundreds of tanks in that range,and they are all in good working order as far as I know.

Me and other manufacturers have built that tank out of 3/8" without a problem.

Far from the 5/8"

We don't even get much of a bow, with 1/2". In the industry a 120 gallon aquarium with 1/2" is considered overkill.

As far as solvent, weldon 4 with chemicals added is the professional way to go.

I'm speaking from about a thousand tanks behind me(no exageration)


Soon I will have wet dry plans available and then aquarium plans available.

They will have 100's of pictures on building a tank in great detail,every little step of the way.

Maybe I'll do 120 gallon tank.

I'll set it up afterwords also.

Keep on fabricating, Sincerely, Acrylicman

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by Siddroww
acrylicman,

Thanks for the response . That gives me plenty of info to get started . I think I am going to order some 5/16 and build a 30g sump first to get my feet wet ( No punn intended ) with something that will be hidden .

One thing is I cant find weldon 4 . I looked from my plastic vender where I buy bars to machine and all they have is what I asked about earlier . I have checked Grainger and macalster Carr and I cant find it . I ran a search on altavista and it didnt bring up anything . Where can I buy it ?

Weldon products are made by IPS Company

Go to a major sheet distributor.

I get Weldon 4 from E and T plastics in Akron, Ohio.

It costs $33 per gallon. I usually get it in 4 gallon cases.

Don't let them overcharge you!

Sincerely Acrylicman

[Siddroww]

Dont know . I have FF in my book but they have it acrylite ( R )

I'll try Cadillac . I have used them before and Ain plastic , who I get the better prices on my bar stock wants $265 a sheet .


Thanks for all the help .

[Siddroww]

Hate to be a pain but you did say ask questions right .

You say 3/8 is enough for a 120 . Would you need to put on a top if you used 1/2 inch ? A cross bar support ?

Also I have ordered weld-on 4 and 5 . You said mix 20% of the five , which will slow down the dry time . How long to dry with that mix ? It will be assembled in my basement that runs around 68 - 70 degrees .

[Zephrant]

I can chime in here- I recently built a 120 without at top (only a 2.5" splash lip), and I am getting about 3/16" bow in at the top of the tank.

I'm a little concerned about it, should I drain it and put in a center brace?

The bow does not bother me, just the thought of it giving way on me......

Pictures: http://archive.reefcentral.com/vbull...threadid=98885


Zeph

[mia1974]

Hi Acrylicman,

Here's a question that I haven't seen yet, what solvent would you suggest for gluing cast acrylic to PVC?

TIA

[Siddroww]

Zephrant,

How thick is your acrylic ? I am trying to decide what to use on the same tank you have in the picks . Also trying to decide on a top . I think I will use 3/8 and put on a top w / 2 openings .

[Mystic]

Acrylic man: I have a few questions that I hope you can help me with.

I recently came across a used 1,500 gallon tank for a very good price. The tank is made from 3.5" acrylic. The tank is rectangular in shape, and the top is braced euro style. It has a 12" wide by 3.5" thick brace running around the perimeter of the tank.

I mentioned that I found it for a very good price, and of course there is a very good reason for the very good price The tank is broken. They had the tank supported on 2x2 wide stilts in six places. One of the corner stilts sank about 1/2" when a flood on the (unsealed concrete) occurred.

To make a long story even longer, the tank cracked and they are ready to get rid of it. The crack starts at the top of the tank in one of the corners. It runs through the top brace, and then down towards the bottom in an S shaped pattern. The problem is that the crack does not run down the seam, in other words the weld did not fail. It actually runs through 3 separate panels of the tank. The top brace, the back, and one side, and it only runs about 1/2 the way down.

What options do I have? Can the crack be welded back together? Could or should I use 1.5" acrylic plates welded over the crack? Will it need cut apart? Or should I forget about it?

I appreciate any and all advise you can give.

[Mystic]

Bump

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by Siddroww
Hate to be a pain but you did say ask questions right .

You say 3/8 is enough for a 120 . Would you need to put on a top if you used 1/2 inch ? A cross bar support ?

Also I have ordered weld-on 4 and 5 . You said mix 20% of the five , which will slow down the dry time . How long to dry with that mix ? It will be assembled in my basement that runs around 68 - 70 degrees .

Yes you would still need a top with 1/2", although you can get away with a thinner top with larger access holes.

As far as the drying time, give a half a day between steps, and wait at least two weeks before filling with water.

Keep on fabricating! Sincerely, Acrylicman

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by Zephrant
I can chime in here- I recently built a 120 without at top (only a 2.5" splash lip), and I am getting about 3/16" bow in at the top of the tank.

I'm a little concerned about it, should I drain it and put in a center brace?

The bow does not bother me, just the thought of it giving way on me......

Pictures: http://archive.reefcentral.com/vbull...threadid=98885


Zeph

You should have a center brace . 6 inches wide out of 1/2" material at least. Make sure it is solvent cemented well.

If you have to much stress and bow,it will have the tendency for the seams to break down and degrigate more than would be normal. In other words there is a much greater chance that a year down the road the top of the seam may let go a bit.

Sincerely, acrylicman

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by mia1974
Hi Acrylicman,

Here's a question that I haven't seen yet, what solvent would you suggest for gluing cast acrylic to PVC?

TIA

Acrylic solvent won't work well, but weldon 40 will work and you can use in a pinch, pvc glue.

Sincerely, Acrylicman

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by Mystic
Acrylic man: I have a few questions that I hope you can help me with.

I recently came across a used 1,500 gallon tank for a very good price. The tank is made from 3.5" acrylic. The tank is rectangular in shape, and the top is braced euro style. It has a 12" wide by 3.5" thick brace running around the perimeter of the tank.

I mentioned that I found it for a very good price, and of course there is a very good reason for the very good price The tank is broken. They had the tank supported on 2x2 wide stilts in six places. One of the corner stilts sank about 1/2" when a flood on the (unsealed concrete) occurred.

To make a long story even longer, the tank cracked and they are ready to get rid of it. The crack starts at the top of the tank in one of the corners. It runs through the top brace, and then down towards the bottom in an S shaped pattern. The problem is that the crack does not run down the seam, in other words the weld did not fail. It actually runs through 3 separate panels of the tank. The top brace, the back, and one side, and it only runs about 1/2 the way down.

What options do I have? Can the crack be welded back together? Could or should I use 1.5" acrylic plates welded over the crack? Will it need cut apart? Or should I forget about it?

I appreciate any and all advise you can give.

You probably would be better welding the 1.5" to it, but I would consider the height of the tank and if it has been over built in the first place. If it is very high and was border line in the first place, I would not take the chance fixing it.

What are the dimensions of the tank?

Sincerely, Acrylicman

[dizzy]

Hey Acrylicman do you happen to know some guy named Pablo?

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by eureka
Hey Acrylicman do you happen to know some guy named Pablo?

I know a Pablo, I'm sure there are many Pablos.

Sincerely,. Acrylicman

[Bryan]

Acrylicman

What is the best way to machine and glue a hole in a large tube (6") where a smaller tube (3/4") needs to connect ,e.g the inlet of a calcium reactor where it meets the pump.

I guess the best chouce would be a bulkhead fitting that can curve, or design the reactor where I make the connection at the bottom of the tube where the surface is flat.

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by Bryan
Acrylicman

What is the best way to machine and glue a hole in a large tube (6") where a smaller tube (3/4") needs to connect ,e.g the inlet of a calcium reactor where it meets the pump.

I guess the best chouce would be a bulkhead fitting that can curve, or design the reactor where I make the connection at the bottom of the tube where the surface is flat.

Lock the tube in a fixture so that you can a hole in it on a drill press. Then drill a hole that equals the outside dimension of the small tube. Hopefully it is a cast tube(your chance of cracking the tube is less.)

Use a bimetallic hole saw, and drill slowly and carefully. As far as how to glue it, Use solvent cement and then it wouldn't hurt to use a bead of Weldon 40 (2 part). Follow instructions and use a big syringe (without the needle) to dispense neatly and carefully.


Some people actually melt a hole through and push a tube through, but in my opinion it does not look to good.

Sincerely, Acrylicman

[H20ENG]

Acrylicman,
Finally someone willing to tell it straight!
I have built quite a few tanks, filters, etc. the hard way, learning a little along the way from some pros. I spoke at length with another Ohioan at Living Waters ( I think it was Pete) when purchasing tanks for the public aquarium I worked for.
I have been trying to find the right info on building a bender for years. I made a ribbon strip heater (cheapie from TAP) that worked decent, but on thicker material, I had to keep flipping the sheet in order for it not to bubble and craze.
Please tell of your heaters! Is there a max temperature the wire or strip should get, allowing thorough softening without bubbling?
When the CDs come out, sign me up!
Thanks,
H2OENG

[Acrylicman]

Originally posted by H20ENG
Acrylicman,
Finally someone willing to tell it straight!
I have built quite a few tanks, filters, etc. the hard way, learning a little along the way from some pros. I spoke at length with another Ohioan at Living Waters ( I think it was Pete) when purchasing tanks for the public aquarium I worked for.
I have been trying to find the right info on building a bender for years. I made a ribbon strip heater (cheapie from TAP) that worked decent, but on thicker material, I had to keep flipping the sheet in order for it not to bubble and craze.
Please tell of your heaters! Is there a max temperature the wire or strip should get, allowing thorough softening without bubbling?
When the CDs come out, sign me up!
Thanks,
H2OENG

To involved to go in great details, but here is some info.

Acrylic depending on density (Type) bends well between 280-325 degrees.

The key is to heat slowly so that it reaches that temperature throughout, without a much higher temperature on the surface.

The thicker the material, the lower the temperature you must run your benders and the longer it will take to bend.

The time varies, but figure 10-15 minutes for 3/8" and 15-20 minutes for 1/2". If you try to rush thick material faster than that you will heat the surface to a temperature that will bubble it way before the inside temperature (280-325) is reached. In other words the surface will reach 400-500 degrees way before the inside reaches 280 degrees.

Bending the material either above or below that temperature range will cause there own problems,especially in a high pressure water enviroment.

Turning the material over is fine, but do it evenly and consistently to get an even temperature on both sides.

I will have plans for heaters soon!

In short, you need radient heaters for thick material (Like oven heating rods) and for thin material the best is coil nichrome wire,(like in your toaster)

The width of the heating area is important, You want the heated area 4-8 times the width of the material. In other words 1/2" material should be bent with aminimum of a 2 inch gap. My benders are adjustable and work well.

I will work on the EBooks/plans as quickly as possible.

Thank you! Sincerely, Acrylicman