DIY MaxiJet Stream (Pic Intense)

[BullDZR]

Well, as promiced, I am posting my mod of my maxijet into a "Tunze Style" pump.

First off, let me say thanks to all those who posted on
This is where all of my information came from before setting out to accomplish my mod. I in no way claim my mod to be any better than any of the mods on this board. Everyone has done an awsome job of trying different things, and I am sure I will try a few things differently on my next maximod. My reason for reposting this is so that others can see from 1st post how this was done rather than read all 18+ . HOWEVER, I still recommend you read the above post as I am sure you will learn alot about what has and has not worked for others.

***I tried to include the pics but when i tried to post, it told me I had to many pictures, maybe the mods will fix this later on but for now, you will have to browse out to each pic. Sorry for the Inconveniance***

Well, on with the show...

this pic is a breakdown of everything used. I have two of some things because I have another maxi I am going to do this mod too.

Part breakdown:

1 maxijet 600 (on hand)
1 1.25" Adapter SCH4 (Lowes $0.96)
1 1.5" PVC Test Cap (Lowes $0.84)
1 3/32nd 12inch Aluminum Rod (Local Hobby Shop $0.60)
1 Bag of flat plastic washers (Local Hobby Shop $1.20)
1 Bag of Propellers, Aquacraft Hammer model (Local Hobby Shop $4.99)
1 Bag of 5/16 round tubing (Local Hobby Shop $4.25)
1 Bag of 1/4 round tubing (Local Hobby Shop $4.00)

Mod total = $16.84 (Keep in mind, I can use alot of the hobby shop stuff several times so future mods will cost less)



k, so here is the PVC Test Cap



And here is the cap modded to fit over the maxijet. You need to grind down the rim of the maxijet, just the thread itself. Then this thing fits on the maxi perfectly. You also need to trim a small amount off of each side to fit over the maxijet arms. I know the wording is wrong but you will see what I mean later.




This is the 1.25 Adapter



So I placed the cap over the pvc and mad a mark so I could grind some of it away, again you will see later on why this is nessesary.



and here is the pvc after I grinded it away, please notice that I actually had to grind a bit more away than the cap, again, you will see why in a sec, but basicly, you have to make room to be able to turn the assembly. Oh, one other thing, for the grinding I uses a Dremel, the exacto knife was for cleanup purposes.






Here are the 2 pieces glued together. I used super glue gel for all assebly so I am not sure how long everything will hold up. I think for the next one I will be using some TEAM LOSI glue. you can get it anywhere they sell RC Car parts.

[BullDZR]

This is the existing magnet assembly from the maxijet and the aluminum rod. I know alot of people have been using stainless steel but my LHS did not have any and I am pretty sure Aluminum does not rust. If it does, I will just replace it with something else later.



here are the plastic tubes to be used later in assemly



This is the empellor from the maxijet, as you can see, I trimmed off all the blades. This I will glue into one end of the plastic tubing. The reason I opted for this rather than just notch the tubing was the aluminum rod fits in this perfectly, had I used just the tubing, there could have been free play int the assembly thus causing shake while it was spinning.



Well, skipping ahead alittle bit (I forgot to take pictures) This is everything needed for assembly. As you can see, I glued the impeller to the tubing, and on the other end is the propeller. The propeller is actually glued to about 1 inch of the smaller tubing, then that tubing is glued inside of the tube you see. If you look real close, you can see the plastic attached to the red piece from the original magnet assembly. I took the rubber off the outside of the piece, then drilled a hole alittle smaller than the head of the red piece. I had to push real hard to get the red piece into the plastic, but this madi it so I needed no glue to hold it in place. The rod here is not cut to length yet so disregard that length.



Here is the assembly of the PVC and the holes that I drilled.



Another shot where you can see the difference in the cap cut and the pvc cut



And here is the maxijet assembled.






Here is a closer shot of the nothces that were cut in the PVC and the cap. I can now twist this thing on and off for cleanings or additional mods.

[BullDZR]

I ended up gluing the suction mount to the TOP of the maxijet since it will be pointing in a different direction. I am not sure how long this will hold, however I can tell you I was moving the maxi after I stuck it in the tank and I was applying alot of pressure and it held up fine.



And another (Please notice the bloody thumb, I risk arm and limb to make this mod and share with you all...hehe )



And here is the maxijet in the tank. Notice the ripple of the water surface. Before my water bareley moved at all, and that was with 2 maxijet 600's. I have the maxi about 2 to 3 inches from the surface and from time to time it will actually suck in air from the surface via a small vortex that forms.




Now this is in just a 30G tank with 1 maxi600 running. I am going to go ahead and do the mod on the other however I do not believe I need it, this thing is more than enough fo my tank.

I am also encluding 2 60sec movie files
http://www.gborocollege.edu/~wdozier...maxijetmod.avi
http://www.gborocollege.edu/~wdozier...axijetmod2.avi

As you can see, the flow is quite turbulant with only the one. I may end up putting them both in the tank and connecting them to a wave timer.

I hope this has been a help to everyone. I welcome any questions than you may have and will try the best to answer them.

Oh, there was one thing. I too hav the problem where when it starts, it starts in the wrong direction. I just put my finger in and stop it and it starts the correct way. I will add a stop on my next one to correct to this.

Again, thanks to all those who posted on the other forum post. You all have a hand in making this what it is.

Wayne

[dcoufal]

Originally posted by BullDZR
1 3/32nd 12inch Aluminum Rod (Local Hobby Shop $0.60)

FYI:

You need to use either 316 Stainless Steel or Titanium.

Aluminum *will* corrude in saltwater.

Dwain

[bassman57]

very cool. Did you work from plans, or did you just make it up as you went?

[BullDZR]

I made it up as I went. I was actually going o use the cap on the other end to hold the rod and drill holse for the water to flow through. however once I got the cap and the maxi together, It all started to click.

I actually spent about 45 minutes standing in the plumbing section trying to decide what to get. My wife was not to happy about that. I ended up grabbing a few pieces of different PVC and decided on this on after I saw how well everything fit.

Wayne

[Rikko]

Looks pretty cool, Wayne!
Btw, when posting picture-intensive threads I tend to post in 4-5 picture chunks.. TO get a mod to fix it up, post in the Q&A forum and someone should fix that up for ya.

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by Rikko
Looks pretty cool, Wayne!
Btw, when posting picture-intensive threads I tend to post in 4-5 picture chunks.. TO get a mod to fix it up, post in the Q&A forum and someone should fix that up for ya.

Thanks, I will definetly do that.

Wayne

[headonkey]

I'm from Durham and this sounds Awesome! Since you already have extra stuff, how much would you charge to make me one? I have an extra powerhead already.

Chad

[Marshall]

I wonder how Tunze estimates their flows? It would be interesting to see how these compare. The test of time is also important although even if these only lasted 6 months the parts are so inexpensive it is an easy rebuild.

[BullDZR]

Well, I do not mind making you one for a small fee. However, I would really like to test this for a few weeks before I start offering that. I need to make sure the glue is going to hold up as it is really the only factor here that could fail. Well, that and I want to make sure the aluminum does not rust. I also have a plan in mind for the peice that holds the aluminum rod on the end. Something alot more rigid and something I know will not fail, just came to me after you asked.

I also want to come up with a way to save all the parts from the original setup in case someone want to go back... should not be too difficult.

I will let you know when I know it is going to last. At that point, you could just mail me your PH and I could mod it and send it back.

Thanks for the compliments everyone, I really appreciate them.

Wayne

[dcoufal]

Originally posted by BullDZR
Well, that and I want to make sure the aluminum does not rust.

It's won't rust - it will corrode.

Rough guess: No more than 3 weeks before it needs to be replaced.

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by phrawd
I wonder how Tunze estimates their flows? It would be interesting to see how these compare. The test of time is also important although even if these only lasted 6 months the parts are so inexpensive it is an easy rebuild.

That is a very good question, I would also love to know how to measure the flow rate.

The more I sit here and think about it, the more I think I can make this to where it will last as long as the maxi will last. The way it is made currently, it is very easy to take apart and clean. The only week point it the glue. And I am pretty sure I can come up with something that will last. There are to many glues on the market not to find something that will work perfectly. Luckily I have some experiance with the RC hobbie so I am sure I can find something.

And you are most correct, the cost of this is well worth it to me. After seeing the affects first hand, I am quite impressed.

Wayne

[sjm817]

A mod to be sure it starts in the right direction would be a good addition.

Nice work.

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by dcoufal
It's won't rust - it will corrode.

Rough guess: No more than 3 weeks before it needs to be replaced.

Well, guess I better order something else. I will definetly keep ckecking it and let you know at what point it fails.

I can tell you that it is pure aluminum, not plated, does that matter?

Wayne

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by sjm817
A mod to be sure it starts in the right direction would be a good addition.

Nice work.

yea, I already know how I am going to go about that one. I am going to put it on the next one. I forsee the next one to be a bit nicer and cleaner with the only point of failure being te glue.

Wayne

[melev]

I think it looks great, and I really like the various hole sizes to make it more interesting to look at.

[dcoufal]

Originally posted by BullDZR
I can tell you that it is pure aluminum, not plated, does that matter?

Nope.

Needs to be at least 316 Stainless Steel.

Other options, in order of increasing chemical/saltwater resistance:

Nitronic 50 Stainless Steel
Type 20 Stainless Steel
(both of the above will be incredibly difficult to find, hence the 316 recommendation)

and, the best option:

Titanium

3/32" Ti Rod is difficult to find. It's normally only available in 1/8" increments. If you can find 14AWG, you'll be incredibly close... Ti Welding rod comes to mind.


But, 316 Stainless Steel should last 12 months in a saltwater tank without difficulty.


Dwain

[bllfish]

If you put the maxi on a wave timer it may switch impeller rotation each time it comes on.

[PetPirate]

This would be a great idea - if it were not for the Al. Isn't aluminium toxic in a reef tank?

[rufio173]

Awesome Bulldzr and looks so simple to do w/ your instructions. Let us know how further testing goes!

Peace,
John H.

[grim]

Good luck solving the starting direction issue! Without it you've basically made an in-tank cuisinart..

jb

[niko5]

Just FYI there is a guy on E-bay that goes by Titanium Joe if you email him he can get 3/32 titanium rod.

[BullDZR]

Originally posted by grim
Good luck solving the starting direction issue! Without it you've basically made an in-tank cuisinart..

jb

hehe, can anybody say SUSHI... hehe, seriuosly though. I already have this one solved becasue someone on the other forum was havining the issue as well. The trick is to just make a stop that sticks out far enough that the blad will hit it. When the blade is turning in the correct direction, the water force causes it to slide on the rod towards the maxi. If it is spinning in the wrong direction, it slides away from the maxi... So I am going to put a stop on the bar that goes across the end and holds the rod.

As for aluminum being toxic, man I hope not, that would be a catastrophy. I will be looking for the titanium rods tonight. I know they make them as I have used them in the RC hobbie. Thanks for the comments, they all help to th edesign of the next.

Wayne

[niko5]

If you really are using Aluminum take it out please. I really dont think it can be good.

I did look up this but still im sure its not good for a closed system.

Although it is chemically very reactive, aluminum resists corrosion by the formation of a self-protecting oxide coating. It is rapidly attacked by alkalies (such as lye) and by hydrochloric acid.